Provence

Description:

• This is Aalborg's foremost purveyor of Danish cuisine that's influenced in almost every case by the culinary traditions of France. Across from the Radisson SAS in the center of town, it offers a cozy, small-scale brown-and-white interior that's illuminated by a stained-glass skylight. The only complaint ever expressed is that its younger staff is not as well trained as those at some of its competitors. Even though the service isn't always faultless, the cuisine itself usually is, as the food is classical and always reliable. A wonderful menu begins with a tasting of the sea, with fresh Danish lobster appearing in a cocktail or in a velvety soup laced with cognac. The cuisine lately seems touched with a special grace, including a Dutch sole with a salmon soufflé and fresh spinach or a "fired" sea bass with a leek sauce. As on most elegant French menus, tournedos appear in their own juices or layered with foie gras. We are not that enthralled with the dessert list, our dining companion complaining that the chocolate mousse brought back "memories of the nursery."

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010