Two Days in the Life of an Athenian

Description:

With unrivaled city views, the GB Roof Garden will definitely leave you breathles. This contemporary restaurant provides a pleasant ambience from breakfast through dinner. Chef Filippo Abisso excels in Mediterranean cuisine, fresh seafood, grilled steaks. Well concocted cocktails are another specialty. The one thing that makes this a favorite for lovers is being able to enjoy the gorgeous Athens sun leaving a fiery trail, as it sets majestically beyond the ancient Acropolis. Truly a sight to behold, right from the highest points of the Hotel Grande Bretagne.

Description:

This 19th Century luxury hotel upholds its high tier reputation, presentation, and hospitality. Well-furnished rooms and earth tone blends add class and prestige to every room ranging from the classic and deluxe rooms, to the presidential and royal suites. The hotel has a diverse selection of restaurants to suit all appetites: The Grande Bretagne Corner restaurant is cozily situated inside the hotel, the Grande Bretagne Roof Garden offers a fantastic view of the city, and in particular, the Acropolis. The Winter Garden has a peaceful oasis decor, as well as live piano music, and finally there is a private dining room called The Cellar, which is available by reservation only. A pool side bar is available, as well as a more formal one on the interior. There is also an outstanding spa! The Grande Bretagne is part of the Starwood Hotels & Resorts.

Description:

In front of the Parliament building in Syntagma Square, the "Evzones," an elite section of of the Greek regular army, stand guard in front of a symbolic tomb representing those who died for Greece in battle.
Dressed in their red caps and fustanellas (traditional mountain costume worn by the irregular fighters in the Greek Revolution) they make an impressive sight against the marble tomb. The ceremony to change posts takes place each hour. They work with the same partner for their entire length of service to perfect their slow, choreographed movements together.

On the half hour, you can catch them in a similar "dance" while they're permitted to stretch. Beyond that, you shouldn't see them so much as swat a fly.

Description:

The focal point of Syntagma Square is the parliament building which stands at the highest point of the square. Built in 1840 under King Otto, this monumental building served as the royal palace until 1910, when it was destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1935 as the seat of the National Assembly. The changing of the guard takes place in front of the building every hour on the hour. This ceremony—which presents a great photo opportunity—is performed by a larger group of soldiers every Sunday.

Description:

The construction work undertaken on the city's metro system during the 1990s brought an unprecedented number of archaeological finds to light. Some of these finds can be seen at the metro station on Syntagma Square. The exhibits include ancient grave stones, an aqueduct from the 5th century BC, pottery, a 2,000-year old beehive and a mosaic from the 5th century AD. Most interesting is the geological cross-section on display, with each layer of earth representing a different historical period. An example of this would be the grave containing a skeleton from the 4th century BC lying a few meters below a 16th-century cistern.

Description:

Aereopagus Hill got its name when the god of war, Ares, was tried for the murder of a demi-god son of Poseidon. In ancient times the hill was used ever since to try murderers, and then just to allow people to speak. St. Paul is one of the more famous, his speech posted just at the base of the rock.

Just to the left of the Acropolis, Aereopagos hill remains free of charge, open at all hours of the day and night, and the perfect place to drink in the wide, white expanse of the city, listening to the distant mix of church bells and motor scooters from every neighborhood in the city center. The best is to be there after dark, when the lights are twinkling and traditional music is plunked on bazoukis in Plaka and Monistiraki. It is the ideal place to view the moon when it is full or to catch fireworks on New Year's Eve.

Description:

Weave your way up to this grouping of houses and you may think you're on a Cycladic island when you see the whitewashed homes built in island style architecture. This is the work of migrants from the Cycladic island of Anafi who came to the capital in the 19th century. Now you can wander past their homes where their descendants are still living, cooking, and watching television. Don't be surprised if you see one in the window or gardening on their terrace. They're happy to direct you to the Acropolis, "Acropoli, Up!" but actually there is no access to the Acropolis from Anafiotika. It is a destination in itself.

Nearby is the Kanellopoulos museum and the Museum of the History of the University of Athens.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best gateway to the land of ouzo appreciation.

Description:

History resonates through this old distillery in Plaka, running for over 100 years, Brettos is a must see for Ouzo drinkers. With an authentic vibe and flowing liquor, you are sure to be taken on a journey back in time. Inside there is a colorful array of bottles lined up against the entire back wall. Lit up from behind it gives the otherwise ancient bar a vibrant look.  Brettos is among the few famous landmarks of Plaza and has throughout the years never failed to appear in local newspapers and magazines. Locals and tourists alike are welcome to eat and drink at this old hangout.

Description:

Formerly known as Arkadiko Kelari, Oinoscent- a clever play on Oinos, the ancient name for wine-  is run by brothers who have a shared passion of fine wines, Greek and beyond. Most people aren't even aware that Greece has competitive winemakers, but this is the land of Dionysus, the god of wine who blessed the soil of Attica himself! Don't you think you owe it to yourself to try some? Go and grab a stool. Let them pour you a few glasses of the different wines of the regions, explaining the differences between a Nemean wine and a Cretan wine while indulging in local cheeses and olives. Intimate, varied, and competitively priced. (Psst, they have amazing chocolates, ouzos and whiskey also! But no one has to know you didn't go for the wine.)

Description:

If you don't go there for the olive oil that's green as a freshly cut lawn, or the eggplant salad (melitzanosalata) that will make you stand up, pat your head and rub your tummy, the grilled calimari, plates of fresh red mullet or, most lethal, Bakaliaro" served with a vampire-destroyingly delicious sidekick called "Skodia." (garlic) ...if none of these things get you to go to Paradosiako tucked in the "foyer" of Plaka on Voulis street, just go to watch the owners fight. It is run by a husband and wife team in such a tight operation you wonder if there's enough oxygen on the sidewalk for everyone, and yet nowhere will you get a truer appreciation of Greek matrimony. Entertainment and fantastic food rarely come together at such a bargain.

Average meal: 10-15 euros a person. Excellent beer and ouzo selection.

Description:

The decision to move the capital of the young Greek state to Athens in 1834 made it imperative to build a large new cathedral here. Construction started in 1839 and was completed in 1863. Since that time, this imposing building, decorated with fine murals and icons, has been Greece's most important church, used for official occasions. People wanting an insight into contemporary Greek culture and wishing to listen to splendid Byzantine music should attend Sunday mass which begins at 8a.

Description:

Downtown Athens is a blur of exotic colors, smells, sounds, that seem much more like a city of the Orient than the city that birthed western culture. From dawn until dusk, workers shout their specials from the lines of stalls where you can, like it or not, know EXACTLY what your food looked like before it ended up on your plate. Go early to watch all of the cleverest cooks of the city taking the best cuts. Sit in one of the many tavernas or cafeneios in the afternoon and watch the hubub from the peace of your table. There is an excellent souvlaki place just across the street. For a surreal experience, go to the 24 hour taverna inside just before dawn and watch the meat be hung. From Monistiraki Square, facing Ermou street, go straight on Athinas and continue on, past the countless shops and kiosks selling all sorts of things from chainsaws to rubber boots to wooden ships, until you come upon some herb shops on the right. You're almost there. First comes the meat market, than the fish market. Across the street is the fruit and vegetable market. You can also buy some great cheeses, dried fruits, nuts and coffee. For vegetarians or those who would prefer to remain ignorant about what a skinned lamb looks like, just keep walking. *Ignore the map. It's wrong. Tried and tried but can't get it to recognize the address, but it is Sofokleous and Evripidou streets on Athinas.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best tiropita in the city, hands down.

Description:

A visitor has not tasted Athens until they have sampled something from Ariston Bakery. Situated off Ermou Street, the bustling, pedestrianized path that leads from Syntagma Square down to the mayhem of Monastiraki, there is good reason why this little haven has been running since 1910. The bakery offers a hedonistic variety of sweet and savory pies ranging from the traditional handmade 'kourou' cheese pie, for which Ariston is famous, to mixed vegetable and indulgent chocolate. For the ultimate experience, grab a pie and a coffee from a nearby coffee bar and watch the world go by. - Steph Bailey

Description:

The Olympic Sailing Centre is located in Agios Kosmas, a coastal area in southern Attica. The site of the Olympic sailing events, it hosted events of the XXVIII Olympiad as well as the Paralympic Games. The Ministry of Environment, Public Welfare and Public Works is responsible for the construction of this world class regatta venue.

Description:

The Faliro Olympic Complex, south of Athens city center and along the Aegean coast,  was built up prior to the 2004 Olympic games. It consists of the Olympic Beach Vollyball Center, now used for theater and concerts, the Faliro Sports Pavilion which is used for conventions, and the Peace and Friendship Stadium, new home to the basketball team, Olympiakos. Large concerts and trade shows are held there during the offseason for basketball.

All around the venues are modern marinas and wide pedestrian areas used now for kite flying, bicycle riding, electric car and boat races and, unfortunately, the parking lot home of several displaced Romanians. Still it is a lovely, active place for a sunset "volta." (Stroll.)

Take the Line one metro to the "Faliro" station and use the tunnels to cross safely under the busy coastal avenue. When you emerge you'll be facing the Peace and Friendship stadium.

Our Local Expert Says:

A long sidewalk along the sea, lined with iron streetlamps, makes for a charming walk with someone special.

Description:

Marina Zea is the charming side of busy Piraeus, one of the largest ports in Europe. It is actually made up of two harbors: Passalimani being the interior and Freatida being the exterior. The sea is trimmed by a large walkway lined with streetlamps perfect for an evening "volta" or stroll. When you've worked up an appetite, Zea is full of little cafes, tavernakis and ouzeries, marked by the octopus hanging outside amidst strings of lights and outdoor tables. It is the perfect place to go, sit, watch the ships come sailing in and get an authentic feel of Greece. lTake the metro to the Monastiraki Metro Station and transfer to the Green line to Piraeus. From there it is easiest to hail a cab and ask for "Zea." It should not cost more than five euros but get an estimate before you get in the car so you don't get taken for a "ride!"

Description:

The Karaiskaki Stadium, with a seating capacity of 33,000, is one of the largest football stadiums in Greece and the second largest stadium in Athens. A completely modern football stadium, it is home to one of Greece's most prestigious clubs-Olimpiacos. Karaiskaki was built in 1895 as a velodrome for the first Olympic Games that took place in 1896. The stadium is located south of the city center in Neo Faliro. Only the museum is open to visitors.

Our Local Expert Says:

In the mornings, go to watch the natives mingling in the sea or doing their exercises. In the evenings, join them for their "volta" or stroll past roasting corn stands and life-size chess games.

Description:

Flisvos is an area that was given rebirth during the building frenzy surrounding the 2004 Athens Olympic Games when it was chosen as the VIP Olympic marina.

Today it is one of the few venues that is as lively now as it was then. The whole area is comprised of a long waterfront where locals go fishing and swimming, an upscale marina where select stores and cafes line the docks that are home to multi-million euro yachts, a chain of green space filled with playgrounds (most conveniently situated near a cafe for parents to get a chance to talk with other adults) and Cine Flisvos, an open air cinema playing current movies.

Easiest access from the center of Athens is to take the tram, getting off at the Flisvos station. The A2 and B2 buses also make routine stops.

Description:

This small fresh-water lake is surrounded by steep rocks backed by Mount Imittos. Its waters are believed to have healing properties hence this mineral spa is popular among those seeking cures against rheumatic, spinal, neurological and even skin problems. Hydrotherapy is offered from May to October. The water's temperature never drops below 21 degrees Celsius and for this reason invites bathers to swim year-round. Vouliagmeni refers to a sunken lake and it is said that it was once a cavern that collapsed after an earthquake. Underground currents from Mount Imittos seep into the lake and flow into the sea via an underwater tunnel. The lake's depth remains a mystery as several divers have drowned in it over the years while attempting to explore the tunnel system connecting the lake to the sea. There are showers and changing cabins as well as a cafeteria and restaurant.

Description:

Schinias is the longest beach on the Eastern coast of Attica. It's loved by locals for the calm waters and shallow waters, friendly to children and cautious bathers. It's surrounded by pines that thrive in the sandy soil, making it a green, shady beach. The sheer length of the beach lends a variety of experiences. Karavi Beach is a traditional, organized beach with umbrellas, lounge chairs and loud, dicoteque music - good if you're wanting to people watch or catch some eyes yourself. If not, continue to the piney region of the beach where you can hunt for a private place to swim.

Karavi beach is not open on Mondays, but the best time to go is definitely during the week. On weekends the beach is flooded with Athenians getting their nature fix. There are reports that the beach has a littering issue- our suggestion is to keep walking until you find a spot that seems desirable. It's 300 meters, after all.

This was the area used for the Olympic Rowing event in 2004 and is still used by rowers, windsurfers. and kite surfers. The beach is 3 km away from the tomb of the Battle of Marathon. Also close by is the beautiful, little-known, ancient site of Ramnous.

Description:

Located on the slopes of Mount Ymittos, Vrahon Theater Melina Merkouri is an open theater famed for hosting many cultural events in Athens. The Ymittos Festival is one such event, which harnesses many international performances from various genres. It also conducts various theatrical programmes and other social and educational events and workshops. Though not quite far away from the city, this open air theater in a way provides the right ambiance to soak in brilliant performances.