- French American Brasserie is stunning, a grand brasserie in the truest sense (although smoking is only allowed on the rooftop): 15,000 square feet spread over four floors with a circular bar, grand staircase, hand-painted ceilings, marble and brass accents, and ornate chandeliers. Service is as polished as the setting; omnipresent owner Fabrice Vergez oversees all. Longtime fans will recognize classics like the white bean and truffle oil soup and sautéed skate wing in caper and brown butter sauce. But the velvety pan-roasted monkfish with house-cured salt cod and the succulent Harris Ranch filet with seared foie gras and asparagus display new verve from the kitchen, as do the plump sweetbreads with wild mushrooms and black truffle sauce. The flavorful organic watercress, membrillo and marcona almond salad is a novel vegetarian choice.
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