Your First Time in Bangkok

Our Local Expert Says:

As far as Thai sports are concerned, Muay Thai is a national passion. For those travelers who like to spectate, a match at Lumpini is an opportunity that can't be passed. But beware…Muay Thai is not for the faint of heart. Expect to cringe.

Description:

Muay Thai, or Thai Boxing, is the national sport of Thailand, and Lumphini Boxing Stadium is the place to see top fights. A very culturally-grounded sport, Muay Thai bouts are preceded by ritualistic music and dance during which the respected fighters pay honor to the sport, the ring and their teachers. Tickets can be pricey – the cheapest third class seats are 500 baht – but one night's ticket includes all the evening's fights. The most high-rated fights at Lumphini Boxing Stadium are saved for the end.

Our Local Expert Says:

You may feel overwhelmed at the National Museum, but absolutely make time for the Buddhaisawan Chapel and the gilded funerary chariots, both of which deserve a spotlight.

Description:

Established in 1874, the National Museum provides for a half day of exploration and discovery. It has three permanent exhibition galleries: The Thai History Gallery, The Archaeological and Art History Collections, and The Decorative Arts and Ethnological Collection. The National Museum is huge, but manageable, especially considering the peaceful, shaded courtyards that offer breaks to visitors. Tours are available in English, German, French and Japanese from 9:30am until noon on Wednesdays and Thursdays, which is also when the museum offers free entry (otherwise, expect to pay 40 baht).

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The Patpong area is famous for its bars, neon lights, girls, sex shows, and massage parlors, but in recent years has spawned a bustling Night Market along the central streets (hemmed in on all sides by go-go bars and sex-show clubs). This popular Night Market has lots of faux brands: pirated CDs and tapes, designer knockoffs, copy watches (including fake "Rolexes" that we've gotten some good reports on), leather goods stamped with desirable logos (sure to hold up better than cardboard) -- not especially cheap, but lively and fun, especially if you enjoy crowds and the challenge of hard bargaining. Open daily after sundown.

Description:

Call it the holy of the holies. This 45-centimeter tall statue of the sitting Buddha is carved from jasper and is only "emerald" in color. Nevertheless its importance is such that only the King of Thailand may go near it and he does so three times a year to change its golden clothing. The temple is right next to the Grand Palace and both are part of a sprawling 1.5 square kilometer collection of buildings. Murals adorn the temple's walls with scenes from the Ramakian, what in India would be the Ramayana. Visitors must cover up -- no bare shoulders or legs -- and some rental clothing is available for anyone who didn't plan ahead. Audio tours can be rented.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you had to see one thing in Bangkok, this arguably would be it.

Description:

Over 200 years old, Wat Pho is one of Bangkok's largest and oldest temple complexes. For an entry fee of 50 baht, visitors can roam the grounds with or without a guide, stopping along the way at numerous notable temples and sites. The most famous of Wat Pho's relics is the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, wherein lies an impressive 46 meter-long gold-plated image of a reclining Buddha. A first grade royal monastery, Wat Pho is also Thailand's oldest learning center and the birthplace of traditional Thai massage. Take a Chao Phraya River ferry to Tha Thien (pier). The Grand Palace is a short walk from Wat Pho. You can also cross the river from the pier to see Wat Arun. Beware that scam artists (often tuk-tuk drivers) will try to claim that the temple is closed for the day. Don't believe it.

[Note: Pho is pronounced with a P like Paul not an F like a Vietnamese noodle soup]

Our Local Expert Says:

The Grand Palace is a Bangkok must-see, but beware of tourist traps! If a tuk tuk driver tells you that the Palace is closed for the day, make sure to get confirmation. And definitely think twice before agreeing to take the city tour he'll probably offer.

Description:

Bangkok's Grand Palace served as the official residence of Thailand's kings from the time it was built in 1782 until midway through the 20th Century. Although the entry fee is considerably higher than most at 300 baht, the grounds are gorgeous and provide an unforgettable glimpse at Thai history and architecture. Sitting on over 215,000 square meters, the Grand Palace houses government offices, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and royal residences. A trip to the Grand Palace is worth combining with Wat Pho, its next-door neighbor of equal cultural importance.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be shocked when you discover your romanticized vision of the floating market is not real. Tourism has led to some high prices and hokey souvenir options. That said, the experience certainly still evokes times passed and is a worthwhile excursion.

Description:

For a taste of Thailand's past, head to Damnoen Saduak Floating Market in Ratchaburi province, about 110 kilometers west of Bangkok. Houses on stilts stand above vendors paddling boats around canals, evoking what once was the daily commerce routine throughout much more of Bangkok. Within this marketplace, visitors can purchase fruits, vegetables, mementos and souvenirs. Many tour operators can arrange an early morning trip to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, lessening the logistical burden. But for a cheaper, more do-it-yourself avenue, travelers can book buses from the Southern Bus Terminal.

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Chinese immigrants -- first under the benevolence of King Rama I and then after several other kings -- settled in Bangkok in Sampheng near the Grand Palace. The community quickly became a thriving business center and in the next century moved to Yaowarat, the current location of Bangkok's Chinatown. Rice trading brought great prosperity and by the 1950s Bangkok's business and entertainment center was Chinatown. Today shops, stalls, and of course Chinese restaurants line the streets and alleys centered around Yaowarat Road which lights up with neon at night like a miniature version of Hong Kong. Some of the major sights to see include the Golden Buddha at Wat Traimit and the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. But the most popular reason to go here is the food. Many eateries stay open long into the night or even 24 hours.

Description:

Supatra River House as the name suggests was once a residence. Situated near Wat Arun on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, it was once the home of Khunying Supatra Singholaga, a womens' rights advocate. The food is highly regarded though some have said the spices are toned down for the Western palate. Dine indoors or on a terrace with views to the Grand Palace across the water. On weekends the nearby Patarvadi theater hosts classical Thai dance performances and other special performing arts shows. During lunch time the restaurant has cooking demonstrations and an on-site museum is dedicated to the namesake. There is a boat pickup from just about anywhere on the river for about 250 baht per person, but you need to call ahead.

Our Local Expert Says:

This is a recommended spot for tom yung goong, and the heat of the phad krapow mu sap is not toned down for the farang palate.

Description:

This corner restaurant is a good economical choice, popular with a mix of foreigners and locals. The expansive, but strictly Thai menu shows English names and photos and so makes Suda a good place to explore the cuisine a bit. The quality of the recipes isn't earthshattering but it isn't bad either and the restaurant has a loyal fan base. Bright orange plastic chairs spill out onto the walk and tables fill up quickly at night. Beer is served as is whiskey, but only the Thai version. The assorted bottles stored around the joint are actually left there by customers who come back regularly to keep working on them. Suda's convenient location just off Sukhumvit Road under the Asoke SkyTrain station doesn't hurt either.

Our Local Expert Says:

Sirocco offers fine dining and the finest eagle's-eye view of the Chao Phraya River.

Description:

Sirocco bills itself as the world's highest alfresco restaurant. Located high up on the 63rd floor of State Tower, Sirocco offers the breezy views one might imagine of the Bangkok skyline. The menu is Italian and much of the fare is imported as appropriate. Prices are not for the casual night out, but the views of stars and city, the live jazz, and the splendid drinks make Sirocco good for special moments and romantic evenings. Expect crisp formal service and be sure to dress on the formal side as well. Be aware that especially outside of the dry season, the restaurant is at the mercy of the weather.

Description:

Arguably one of the most elegant restaurants in Bangkok for fine Thai food, Lemon Grass has been serving mouth-watering cuisine for many years. It also maintains a good reputation among the city's amateur critics. Set in a converted house decorated with beautiful antiques, the theme is traditional and stylish, right down to the cutlery and placemats. The Minced Chicken and Ginger Served in Cabbage Leaves should not be missed. The signature Lemon Grass Iced Tea is always on the favorites list.

Description:

This Byzantine labyrinth of shops, stalls and alleys is where the movers and shakers of Thailand's economy got started. It has been the main trading center for the Chinese in Thailand since they moved from their old site near the Grand Palace some 200 years ago. Everything from household and electronic goods to Chinese medicine and antique vases are available. It is also a good place to go for deals on gold and obviously Chinese food. Some stores and restaurants are open 24 hours.

Our Local Expert Says:

Many people refer to this as a jazz club, but other genres are much more common.

Description:

Saxophone is a music-lover's hang out. The live music venue puts the band right at the center of the room for a very intimate setting with a mezzanine overlooking it all. Photos of jazz greats line the walls but jazz is hardly the only item on the music menu. Saxophone offers a lot of blues, rock and a popular local reggae band T-Bone every Friday. Thai food and some Western bar snacks are decent and the locals love the whiskey. The Saxophone Bar crowd is a good mix of foreigners and Thai, all focused on the music not on what you're wearing.

Description:

The Suan Lum Night Bazaar closed in 2010 several years after the lease ran out on the land. It will soon be developed into commercial space. Most of the vendors are expected to relocate to the Ratchada Night Market which is expected to open in 2012.

Our Local Expert Says:

Although terribly crowded, Route 66 is one of the best clubs in Bangkok. Very popular among young, trendy Thais, it hosts some of the best DJs and live bands in town. No cover!!

Description:

Route 66 is divided into different wings, each blasting different music or featuring a live band. Animation and other visuals play on the walls and ceiling.

Our Local Expert Says:

This is an element of Thai culture that came one person short of being forgotten. Renewed interest has kept it alive but just barely. This is a commonly overlooked cultural aspect of Thailand.

Description:

SADLY, THE JOE LOUIS THEATER CLOSED ITS DOORS IN 2010.

Joe Louis Theater is the preservation hall of the dying art of Thai puppetry. One man kept it alive with barely any public notice until Thai tourism authorities discovered the lone puppeteer Sakorn Yangkhieosot and made efforts to showcase this impressive talent. Three puppeteers dressed in black are necessary to manipulate the various limbs and facial expressions of the artfully created marionettes. Parts of the Ramayana and regional legends are performed with English subtitles projected on screens to the sides of the stage. The Joe Louis Theater is the only spot in Bangkok where you can see this live puppet show. Masks and other souvenirs can be purchased in the lobby where you can see a wax figure of the late puppeteer himself.

Description:

Dress to impress at Curve Bar. The cars in the parking lot are the first sign this place caters to a bit of high society. A good selection of liquor and mixed drinks are on offer and the two areas of the bar give patrons a choice of music. Hip hop, reggae and old school - including up to three live bands and a DJ in a night - can be heard in one, while the other room cranks out house and trance. Just a short walk from the SkyTrain at Ekamai station.

Our Local Expert Says:

Bed Supper Club is one of Bangkok's most famed clubs. Due to its popularity among high-society Thais and foreigners, the cover charge is the steepest you'll find. To avoid paying the outrageous price, go for a late dinner first and just stick around.

Description:

This is one of the most unusual clubs you'll ever visit. Dubbed as a 'dining in bed experience', it is an amalgamation of a restaurant, club, art gallery, and theatre. The décor is stark white, which gives the place a zesty, futuristic look. At the restaurant, you can slip off your shoes and lie down. Dinner is served only once; so if you need to have some, make sure you arrive by 8:30p. On weekends, you can savor the four-course menu that serves up different food week after week. The bar has been creatively designed and looks exactly like the restaurant. Come here to lounge and enjoy the tunes of international DJs, such as Benjamin Diamond and Miguel Migs. If you're into hip-hop, then don't miss Tuesday nights.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most unusual temple designs in Bangkok.

Description:

In the 19th century, King Rama III commissioned this central wiharn designed to look like a classic Chinese junk as he saw steamboats taking over. The junks no longer sail the Chao Phraya, but this riverside temple and its concrete commemorates the craft a bit. The altar is in the wheelhouse and two chedis represent the masts. On the right side of the temple grounds as you enter from Charoen Krung Road, is a sort of temple-cum-museum housing a variety of Shakyamuni Buddha relics you can actually see under minature glass stupas. Nonbelievers may decide that the pieces of bone, flesh and brain look decidedly like colored pebbles and crystals but this is a holy site and visitors, who rarely include tourists, are likely to be making offerings and praying within. The use of this site as a temple dates back to the Ayutthaya Period but the buildings are modern. Wat Yannawa (or Yan Nawa) is a unique Bangkok temple and its proximity to Central Pier on the Chao Phraya River and the Saphan Taksin BTS SkyTrain station makes it worth a stop.

Description:

Construction of this wat commenced in 1807 under the direction of King Rama I, who wanted it to be as stunning as the temples in Ayutthaya, Thailand's former capital. Completed in 1851 under King Rama III, it certainly came close to being one and is still the tallest wat in Bangkok. The murals are done in traditional Thai-style. Phra Si Sakayamuni - one of the largest Sukhothai bronze Buddhas -is also housed here. There is a daily sermon from 7p-9p. The temple's full name is Wat Suthat Thepwararam.

Our Local Expert Says:

The World's Largest Solid Gold Buddha

Description:

It's not every day you get to see a World Record worthy of the Guinness Book. Known in Thai as Phra Buddha Maha Suwanna Patimakorn, the Golden Buddha weighs 5.5 tons making it the world's most valuable (money-wise) sacred object. Amazingly the 13th century Sukothai-style statue spent centuries hidden under a layer of lacquered plaster which King Rama III ordered to disguise it when he moved it to Bangkok. An accidental crack in 1955 revealed the solid gold interior. The three-meter tall statue in the Subduing Mara, Calling the Earth to Witness posture occupies the fourth level of a somewhat pyramid-like shrine inside Wat Traimit. Entry to the temple is free and it is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. However, for foreigners there is a 40-baht fee to see the massive gold Buddha image. On the third floor is an exhibit telling the history of the statue and its move to Bangkok.

The second floor is home to the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Both exhibits are closed Mondays but otherwise follow the hours of the temple. Wat Traimit and the Golden Buddha should be the first stop on an exploration of Bangkok's Chinatown.

Description:

Built during the reign of King Rama I in the 18th century, and also known as The Temple of the Great Relic, this wat houses the Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of the highest seats of Buddhist learning in the country. Monks from across Southeast Asia come here to study. Foreigners interested in Buddhist meditation should visit Section Five, where the Thai national headquarters of Vipassana meditation is located. English language tuition can usually be arranged. The temple's full name is Wat Mahatat Yuwaratrangsarit Ratchaworamahawihan. Admission is free.

Description:

This Wat is made of white Carrana marble, hence it is also called The Marble Temple. Constructed by King Rama V in 1901, it employs European ecclesiastic details, such as stained-glass windows and contains a superb cloister collection of bronze Buddha images. These images (33 originals and 20 reproductions) represent famous images and styles from all over Asia and other Buddhist countries. This is an excellent place to watch religious festivals and processions. Unlike most other temples, monks do not go out seeking alms but are instead visited by merit-makers from 6a-7a.