Four Contemporary Art Museums

Description:

Having one of Barcelona's most desirable locations, in the heart of Ciutat Vella, this little hotel opens onto the tree-shaded Plaça Sant Josep Oriol, where cafes huddle around the Gothic medieval church of Santa María del Pi. The five-floor hotel has been upgraded and improved in recent years, with the installation of an elevator, though the over-bright general lighting dissipates the charm for some. Much of the original architectural charm remains, and though the guest rooms are somewhat austere, they are comfortable and equipped with bathrooms with tub/shower combinations. The quieter units are at the top and 5 of the accommodations have private terraces, while 26 have small balconies. Under separate management, Bar del Pi, on the ground floor, is a favorite of artists and students who live nearby.

Description:

Five medieval mansions on this street contain this museum of the work of Pablo Picasso (1881-1973). The bulk of the art was donated by Jaume Sabartés y Gual, a lifelong friend of the artist. Although born in Malaga, Picasso moved to the Catalan capital in 1895 after his father was awarded a teaching job at the city's Fine Arts Academy in La Llotja. The family settled in the Calle Merce and when Picasso was a bit older, he moved to the Nou de Les Ramblas in the Barrio Chino. Although he left Spain for good at the outbreak of the Civil War -- and refused to return while Franco was in power -- he was particularly fond of Barcelona, where he spent his formative years painting its seedier side and hanging around with the city's bohemians. As a sign of his love for the city, and adding to Sabartés enormous bequest, Picasso donated some 2,500 of his paintings, engravings, and drawings to the museum in 1970. All of these were executed in his youth (in fact, some of the paintings were done when he was only 9), and the collection is particularly strong on his Blue and Rose Periods. Many works show the artist's debt to van Gogh, El Greco, and Rembrandt.

The highlight of the collection is undoubtedly...

Description:

An outdoor café located in an unbeatably romantic Gothic-style courtyard setting in the Museu Tèxtil i d´Indumentària (Textile Museum). It has a sensibly limited menu offering top quality vegetable soups, pastas and meats. In addition, you can choose from a colorful selection of Mediterranean-style sandwiches, vegetable pastries, couscous, chilly with chicken and delicious homemade cakes. It is a relaxed and peaceful place during the day, mainly frequented by tourists visiting the other neighboring museums. At night it fills up with couples and groups of friends. It just shows how a heap of imagination and energy can create something out of nothing.

Description:

This street runs from Carrer Ferran to Carrer Ample, and is very typical of an old town street, with lots of places to eat, drink and socialize with the hoards of young people that populate them. Picasso found the inspiration to paint his famous Las señoritas de Aviñón in a brothel located here, too; the painting does not refer to the French town, as people often assume. It is an agreeable place for a late-afternoon stroll; it still maintains all the charm it once had centuries ago.

Description:

Located in the stunning Palau dels Marquesos de Llió, a Gothic mansion adjacent to the Museu Barbier-Mueller Art Precolombí , the city's textile museum is a slightly slapdash but overall interesting permanent display of fabric and lace-making techniques and costumes. The first floor covers periods from the Gothic through to Regency, the latter consisting of crinoline skirts with bone-crushing bodices plus a wonderful selection of fans and opera glasses. Upstairs you find the 20th-century exhibits, which include ensembles from the Basque-born creator Cristóbel Balenciaga, as well as Paco Rabanne and Barcelona's own Pedro Rodríguez. Temporary exhibitions have ranged from Catalan jewelry to the outfits of Australian enfant terrible performer Leigh Bowery. There are a great cafe in the courtyard and an above-average gift shop.

Description:

This historic restaurant opened in 1897. It was the favourite haunt of avant-garde artists and intellectuals in the early 1900s. It is said that Picasso used to hang out here too. The menu ranges from tapas and sandwiches at the bar and elaborate and expensive meals available in the restaurant. The establishment has its own newspaper with articles about the art of cooking as well as the plastic arts. The authentic modernist-style interior and the live piano music combine to create a great atmosphere.

Description:

The artist himself, Antoni Tàpies, created this center in 1984 as a place to study contemporary art, and today its library has become one of the most important of its kind in the world. It exhibits a large collection of his drawings, paintings, sculptures and engravings and organizes regular temporary exhibitions as well. The building that dates back to 1880, is the work by modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and it was the headquarters of the prestigious publishing house, Editorial Muntaner i Simón until the 1970s. Look up, above the entrance to see one of Tàpies's avant-garde sculptures.

Our Local Expert Says:

Head up Passeig de Gràcia or Rambla de Catalunya from Plaza Catalunya to find good tapas bars and outdoor cafes.

Description:

To cope with the exponential expansion outside the city's medieval walls, Ildefons Cerdà developed a new city plan in 1850: a grid structure of vertical and horizontal streets that formed squares when they crossed. Cerdà wanted to build residential accommodation in these square blocks and have communal yards in the middle with gardens where children could play. This part of the plan was sadly never accomplished, but the original design gives the blocks plenty of light. L'Eixample was built between 1860 and 1920, coinciding with the boom in Modernist architecture that is well represented here. The district is divided between the Dreta de L'Eixample (The Right) and the Esquerra de L'Eixample (The Left).

Description:

Next door to the Casa Amatller, Casa Batlló was designed by Gaudí in 1905, and is hands-down the superior of the three works in the manzana. Using sensuous curves in iron and stone and glittering, luminous trencadis (collage of broken tiles and ceramic) on the facade, the Casa Batlló is widely thought to represent the legend of Saint George (the patron saint of Catalonia) and his dragon. The balconies are protected by imposing skull-like formations and supported by vertebrae-like columns representing the dragon's victims, while the spectacular roof is the dragon's humped and glossy scaled back. St. George can be seen in the turret, his lance crowned by a cross. The building was opened to the public in 2004, and although its admission price is steep compared to many other Gaudí attractions, the interior of the building is no less spectacular than the exterior, with sinuous staircases, flowing wood paneling, and a stained-glass gallery supported by yet more bonelike columns. Custom-made Gaudí-designed furniture is scattered throughout.

Description:

Constructed in a cubical design with a Dutch gable, this building was created by Puig i Cadafalch in 1900, and was the first building on the manzana. It stands in sharp contrast to its neighbor, the Gaudí-designed Casa Batlló . The architecture of the Casa Amatller, imposed on a pre-existing edifice, is a vision of ceramic, wrought iron, and sculptures. The structure combines grace notes of Flemish Gothic -- especially on the finish of the facade -- with elements of Catalan architecture. The gable outside is in the Flemish style. Look out for the sculptures of animals blowing glass and taking photos, both hobbies of the architect. They were executed by Eusebi Arnau, an artist much in demand by the modernistas.

Description:

The last building of the trio, on the corner of Carrer del Consell de Cent, is the Casa Lleó Morera. This florid work, completed by Doménech i Montaner in 1906, is perhaps the least challenging of the three, as it represents a more international style of Art Nouveau. One of its quirkier features is the tiered wedding cake-type turret and abundance of ornamentation. Comb the facade for a light bulb and telephone (both inventions of the period) and a lion and mulberry bush (after the owner's name: in Catalan, lion is lleó, and mulberry is morera). Tragically, the ground floor has been mutilated by its tenant, who stripped the lower facade of its detail and installed plate glass. The shop's interior, which fared no better, is the only part of the building open to the public.

Description:

Located on Passeig de Gràcia, they offer Basque pinchos (tapas) and montaditos (like canapés) for a small amount. You can get an idea of the fare on offer by having a look at the big informative boards with pictures on both sides at the entrance. Decorated in wood, there is a big central bar where the products are displayed. It is full of tourists, locals and workers from the nearby offices. Try the first floor, where it is a bit quieter. They also have an outdoor terrace on the pavement, where you can watch all the people go by.

Description:

The name comes from the Basílica de Santa Maria del Pi and from Saint Sant Josep Oriol, who is buried there. The two squares are consecutive; one leads into the other. A sculpture of Àngel Guimerà resides in Sant Josep Oriol-he was a very important writer representative of a Catalan cultural movement called La Renaixença in the 19th century. There are art and food markets here, as well as musicians playing and singing in the street, with people listening to them from the terraces of the many pleasant cafés surrounding the two squares.

Description:

This church takes its name from the huge pine tree outside its main entrance. The church, built between the early 14th and late 16th centuries, resides on one of the most charming squares (of the same name) in the Barri Gòtic. There is always something happening on the square (which in effect merges into two other tiny plazas) whether it is an art market (Sun), a local cheese and artisan fair run by food hawkers (Thurs-Sat), street musicians strutting their stuff, or people milling around the plentiful outdoor cafes.

The church itself is a typical, if not the most complete, example of Catalan Gothic. Its wide, single nave spans nearly two-thirds of the building's length, lending the church its squat appearance. Above the main entrance is a gigantic rose window. Inside it's just as austere, although worth inspecting for the ingenious stone arch that has supported the structure's width for centuries.

Our Local Expert Says:

The servers here are generally knowledgeable about wines and can help you with their extensive list if you're not familiar with Spanish varieties.

Description:

Gaze at the Gothic Santa Maria del Mar, while you sip on a goblet of Spanish cava. Located in a touristy yet charming area, La Vinya del Senyor lets you sample hundreds of varieties of wine at your own leisurely pace. You can accompany your drink with a host of cheeses and coca (a pizza-like Catalan dish). Also available is the Spanish favorite - bread with olive oil and rock salt - as well as cold cuts like salami. Grab a table or a stool by the bar and enjoy your meal while you detach yourself from the surrounding hustle and bustle.

Description:

Having one of Barcelona's most desirable locations, in the heart of Ciutat Vella, this little hotel opens onto the tree-shaded Plaça Sant Josep Oriol, where cafes huddle around the Gothic medieval church of Santa María del Pi. The five-floor hotel has been upgraded and improved in recent years, with the installation of an elevator, though the over-bright general lighting dissipates the charm for some. Much of the original architectural charm remains, and though the guest rooms are somewhat austere, they are comfortable and equipped with bathrooms with tub/shower combinations. The quieter units are at the top and 5 of the accommodations have private terraces, while 26 have small balconies. Under separate management, Bar del Pi, on the ground floor, is a favorite of artists and students who live nearby.

Description:

The cable-car is the most interesting way to reach Castell de Montjuïc and the rest of the sights on Montjuïc hill. It starts from Avinguda Miramar where it connects with the funicular train from Parallel metro station. It's made up of four cabins that give you fantastic views along the way of both the port and the hill itself, especially on sunny days. You can take it both ways.

Description:

This cable train is a leftover from the Universal Exposition of 1929 and goes from Barceloneta up to the last station of the Montjuïc funicular. The cabin is spacious and has big windows, so you get spectacular views of the port and the rest of the city. It goes in both directions with a departure every 15 minutes.

Our Local Expert Says:

Free guided tours are lead on Saturdays and Sundays, (in Spanish or Catalan only). Check their website for times and details.

Description:

Joan Miró's works can be difficult to appreciate, but it's worth the extra effort and time. Renting the audio guide at the Fundación Joan Miró gives some perspective of the artist's messages, and makes the museum experience more enjoyable. The museum encompasses the works of Miró, displays a small collection of works by other artists paying tribute to Miró, and also has one or two temporary exhibits. The museum is located very close to the Montjuic Funicular stop.

Description:

Standing 173 meters (570 feet) high, this hill by the sea was not inhabited until after the Middle Ages, despite the fact that the Jewish quarter had extended to the nearby Miramar area. In 1607, the first path to the summit was opened and, in 1640, during the war of the Segadors, a fortress was built to resist Philip IV's incursions. This later became Castell de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Castle). For the last three hundred years it has been a popular park for locals looking to pick wild herbs or to spend a little leisure time.

Our Local Expert Says:

You've got some of the best city views from here!

Description:

Former military prison atop mountain, this 18th-century castle is situated on Montjuic hill. The original structure was built in 1640 during the War of the Segadors to resist Felipe IV's forces, but it was expanded and improved between 1751 and 1779 to form the present building, which has become a symbol of centralist repression and of the abolition of Catalan liberties. Once a military prison, it's now home to the Museu Militar (Military Museum). You'll find it at the end of the cable-car line where it protects the harbour with its show of arms. A Barcelona gem, with unbeatable views.

Description:

After a long day of museums, let loose at the magic Fonts. Feel like a kid again with the excitement of the colorful fountain show set from the Plaça de Espanya to the MNAC museum. Imagining the fountains' plumbing system below is mind boggling, not to mention counting the over four thousand light fixtures used to create the magic. While the light, water, and music show is flowing, the Art Deco flair of the 1929 fountains is often overlooked. The magic is choreographed to varied musical medleys, and is not to be missed on a warm summer night. Winter shows are on Friday and Saturday nights, and spring and summer shows are from Thursday to Sunday.

Description:

Wondering what that long line is all about? It's to get one step closer to what's cooking at Les Quinze Nits! This is actually a culinary school where innovative dishes are prepared by students. Watch enthusiastic youngsters turn out delicious Mediterranean dishes in the open kitchen as you await your order. Serving everything from seafood to pastas, and salads to desserts, the eatery maintains low rates and high standards. The service is a bit slow, so be prepared for a long wait before you get to experience the Quinze magic.

Description:

This charming 19th-century square is just off the Ramblas and Carrer Ferran. It was the site of a Capuchin convent that was demolished in 1835 when Barcelona underwent a period of urban renewal. Architect Francesc Daniel Molina was put in charge of filling the vacant space. Plaça Reial has undergone a number of renovations since then. The street lamps in the shape of trees were designed by Antoni Gaudí. The Las Tres Gracias fountain in the center dates from the end of the 19th Century. Now Plaça Reial is a meeting point for young people on their way to and from the nearby clubs and bars.

Description:

Having one of Barcelona's most desirable locations, in the heart of Ciutat Vella, this little hotel opens onto the tree-shaded Plaça Sant Josep Oriol, where cafes huddle around the Gothic medieval church of Santa María del Pi. The five-floor hotel has been upgraded and improved in recent years, with the installation of an elevator, though the over-bright general lighting dissipates the charm for some. Much of the original architectural charm remains, and though the guest rooms are somewhat austere, they are comfortable and equipped with bathrooms with tub/shower combinations. The quieter units are at the top and 5 of the accommodations have private terraces, while 26 have small balconies. Under separate management, Bar del Pi, on the ground floor, is a favorite of artists and students who live nearby.

Description:

A soaring white edifice in the once-shabby but rebounding Raval district, the Museum of Contemporary Art is to Barcelona what the Pompidou Center is to Paris. Designed by the American architect Richard Meier, the building is a work of art in itself, manipulating sunlight to offer brilliant, natural interior lighting. The permanent collection, which is expanding all the time, exhibits the work of modern international luminaries such as Broodthaers, Klee, Basquiat, and many others. Most of the museum, however, has been allotted to Catalan artistic movements, like the Grup del Treball, who were a bunch of reactionaries producing conceptual art criticizing Franco's dictatorship with enormous documents promoting independence for Catalonia. Photographs by Oriol Maspons and Leonardo Pómes illustrate Barcelona street life and the bohemians of the Gauche Divine (Divine Left) in the '70s. Dau al Set, a surrealist movement led by the brilliant "visual poet" Joan Brossa, meanwhile, provokes thought and reflection through the juxtaposition of everyday items. Catalonia's most famous contemporary artists, Tàpies and Barcelò, are both represented. Temporary exhibitions highlight international artists...

Description:

If you need to have the best focaccia in town, walk into Buenas Migas. Focaccia is traditionally enjoyed by fishermen with wine, but now it is a local specialty in Spain. This place doles out just that with an Italian touch to it. They also serve up delicious home made breads along with cappuccinos, pastries and other Italian dishes. The place is very warm an inviting with a woody decor. The quality is high as everything is cooked at home. Come by and be part of tradition!

Our Local Expert Says:

Check out Chiringuito 23 on the main Barceloneta beach. Great view, reasonably priced food and efficient, friendly service. Everyday after 4pm there's an original happy hour cocktail.

Description:

What used to be one of the dodgiest neighbourds in Barcelona, is now thriving with tourists, locals and all those who appreciate living by the sea. Barceloneta is a diamond in the rough as it posseses both that genuine barrio feel, while at the same time its home to some of the most delicious and well known touristy restaurants in the city. Visit the many seaside patios and chiringuitos for the must try Spanish paella and daytime sangria before hitting up the beach. A perfect place for Sunday strolls with the family, bike rides, surfing and kite surfing or ideal for just working on the tan, Barceloneta is never dull, especially between the months from May-September. The best time to make a beach appearance is in the morning, as it doesn't usually fill up until 1 pm when it often overflows with people. Barceloneta is also home to the Maritime Museum, the casino, as well as some of the most popular (and cheesy) night clubs the city has to offer. There's also a great little plaza across from the market equipped with ping pong tables and a small park for the kids.

Description:

Can Paixano is a small restaurant-cum-wine bar located in the midst of the busy Reina Christina area. Despite its noisy and smoky atmosphere, this place attracts a huge crowd from all over the city. People queue up mainly to get a taste of the lovely rose cava (Spanish sparkling rosé wine). Bocadillos and sausages are available at very low prices. It's like getting into a brawl to get your order across, but then it's definitely worth every bit!