FACIL

Description:

• At vast expense, in the infrastructure of the Mandala Hotel, a crane lifted a vast tonnage of glass, steel, and garden supplies to the hotel's fifth-floor terrace. Don't expect a view of the city skyline, as you'll probably get something even better: a verdant oasis of Zen-like calm smack in the middle of one of Berlin's most frenetic neighborhoods. A glass roof, tightly closed for midwinter views of the falling rain and snow, opens dramatically during clement weather for a view of the moon and stars. All this is available only to about 48 diners placed at 14 tables. Service from the well-trained staff is formal, alert, and attentive.

  A medley of extremely sophisticated menu items changes with the seasons and the inspiration of the chef, but may include such starters as lukewarm octopus with clams or gnocchi with cèpes (flap mushrooms). The freshest of fish is shipped in, and the chef grabs the best of the catch, fashioning the bounty into Atlantic turbot with fresh fennel and an anchovy sauce or else sea bass with bouillabaisse salad. Meat and poultry dishes also use quality ingredients, and our favorites are the black feather fowl with kohlrabi and dumplings or the lobster with roasted vegetables.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010