This is the most elaborate and formal restaurant in Berlin, with superb cuisine, a discreetly wealthy clientele that tries hard to keep their names out of the newspapers, and a decor that evokes the grandest imperial days of the European (especially French) monarchs. It occupies a site one floor above the lobby of the also-recommended luxe hotel, with windows that overlook the Brandenburg Gate, richly oiled walnut paneling, black-and-white marble, and draperies that seem like monumental works of art in their own right. If the dining room is crowded, you can also opt for seating in either of two smaller and somewhat cozier rooms, the Kaminzimmer and the Bundeszimmer. Your meal might begin with a carpaccio of pickled kingfish served with couscous and pink grapefruit, or a roulade of saddle of rabbit served with eggplant "caviar" and saffron; then move on to a platter that celebrates duck, and as such is piled high with breast of duck, a thigh of duck en confit, and braised duck liver and Swiss chard.
- © Frommer's 2013
- Very Highly Recommended 2010