This is the most talked about, most sought-after, and most fashionable restaurant in Bermuda, with combinations of Asian and European fare that aren't easily available in most other restaurants. Set on the eastern edge of downtown Hamilton, on the ground floor of the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), it gives every impression of not having a straight line anywhere within it -- more like an intersecting jumble of sinuous, sun-flooded curves. There's an etched aluminum bar near the entrance, a cozy, appealingly woodsy central dining room that evokes a postmodern spin on a traditional British pub, and a high-ceilinged second dining room where the light seems to leap into the room from the piers and yachts you'll see through high banks of windows. Menu items are the kind of thing that food and dining magazines like to feature, such as rigatoni with chicken, spinach, and cream sauce; lobster salads; blackened codfish; Venetian-style calf's liver; yellowfin tuna with a wasabi-flavored cream sauce; tuna or steak tartare; and char-broiled loin of veal with a shiitake mushroom sauce. Sushi, served Monday to Saturday from 5 to 10pm, is the specialty of the chef, and ranges in price from $6.50 to $15. There is also a vegetarian sushi served. Dessert might include a warm, partially melted chocolate pudding ("fondant au chocolat").
- © Frommer's 2013
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- Highly Recommended 2010