Víctor Montes

Description:

• In the heart of Bilbao's oldest neighborhood, this restaurant maintains a handful of battered dining rooms -- some upstairs -- where closely packed tables, racks of wine, and frantic waiters create a sense of good-natured hysteria, especially at lunchtime. Expect copious portions of old-fashioned roasts, stews, soups, and salads, usually with an emphasis on fresh vegetables and seafood such as grilled squid or fresh fava beans with nuggets of cod. Many locals, especially those in a hurry, tend to bypass a dining table altogether, opting for one or more raciones of tapas. Lined up atop the bar, the small plates taste wonderful when accompanied with sherry, wine, or beer.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010