Vila Bled

Description:

• One of Slovenia's two Relais & Châteaux properties, this estatelike hotel is set in lovely gardens near the edge of the lake. Originally a royal villa, then rebuilt as a country retreat for Marshall Tito's favored guests in 1947, the hotel has since seen the likes of Prince Charles, William Hurt, and Jeff Bridges. Accommodations are divided between huge suites and fairly small doubles. Reserve a suite for a real sense of being on Tito's VIP list: Decked out with parquet floors, massive windows, and big Art Deco furniture, they have a distinctive Soviet atmosphere conjuring up memories of secret meetings in a smoke-filled haze. The 1950s styling includes idiosyncratic period pieces such as chunky telephones and gigantic ashtrays, and everything -- from silverware to waste bins -- has been monogrammed. The hotel has a private "lido" on the lake (basically a wooden deck for sunbathing), and boats are available so you can row yourself to Bled Island. Do visit the first-floor meeting room, where Tito had his private cinema; the walls feature Slavko Pengov's pro-Yugoslav frescoes dating back to 1947. Even if you don't spend the night, book a table at the Vila Bled Restaurant, offering the best food and service in town; dishes are better priced than you might imagine (mains range from 18€-28€/$23-$36). Note: At press time, there was news of changed ownership at Vila Bled, so there may be plans afoot that may impact services offered here.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010