Its that time of year again in Abu Dhabi when folks crawl out their summer caves and enjoy the moderating temperatures. This is also the part of the year when most activities are planned. The fourth annual Abu Dhabi Film Festival is no exception. Held at the tony Emirates Place Hotel, this event draws actors and filmmakers from all over the world with emphasis on up and coming Middle Eastern talent.

Excitement filled the air at the gala opening night as celebrities strutted on the red carpet for the media. For the 10 day duration of the festival, many celebrities will make themselves available to the public and press at scheduled “Encounters”, more to come on that.

Media Red Carpet Area

Oscar Winning Actor Adrien Brody

Arabic Actress Yosra

Emirates Palace Hotel Atrium

The first thing a visitor notices is there are two distinctive types of taxis, one type has the white and gold livery.

Classic Abu Dhabi Taxi

These have been the mainstay until about two years ago. They can still be seen on the streets but the government has planned to phase them out completely in the next few years and fewer are plying the streets as the months go by. These are older cars that may not be in the best repair and the drivers may not speak English well and but they get the job done. These guys will not rip you off but make sure a price is agreed upon. Intracity fares should not be more than AED 15-20 (~$4-$6). They are being replaced by the silver taxis.

New Generation Taxi

The silver taxis are an effort to modernize the fleet and the image of the city. The cars are newer and larger, the drivers are uniformed and speak English well.  The high-tech meter is always used and the car is speed limited in certain areas. There is a central dispatch facility too.  These taxis run about $2-$3 more for the same trip as the older taxis.

A unique category of the silver taxis and that is the “Ladies Taxi”  which are only for women and children under ten years of age. The drivers are all female too. The “Pink Taxis” have proved wildly popular and more are planned.

Pink Taxi, Ladies Only

The proper way to hail a taxi here is to extend  the arm straight out and open and close the hand repeatedly .

Either way, you can’t go wrong with the Abu Dhabi taxi system. The drivers are knowledgeable, courteous and professional. unlike the thieves this writer has found in other countries. The drivers usually carry change and a 10-15% gratuity is  not expected but appreciated. It’s an incredible bargain!

Here’s hoping all the white and gold guys can get a job in a silver car when the time comes!

Abu Dhabi Payphone Keypad

The numbers on the left are of course familiar to most westerners as Arabic numerals, the ones to the right are the real Arabic numerals. The only two similar symbols are the 1′s and the 9′s. Luckily the paper money in the U.A.E. is printed in familiar western symbols on one side and Arabic on the other. Beware of the zero.  The 5 AED note is “0″ and the 50 is “0.” so one has to look closely to catch the little dot that raises the value X10.

5 Dirham Bill on the Left, 50 on the Right

The Arabic number system was the first in history that used the concept of “zero” as an X10 multiplier and digit placeholder. The Romans weren’t so clever in this department so the more flexible Arabic system prevails to this day.

Typical Shisha Pipe

While the device may look like it would guarantee you a couple of years hard time at the Graybar Hotel in most western countries as drug paraphernalia, there is no explanation required here in Abu Dhabi! After all, it is what is smoked that is important. A special concoction appropriately named shisha tobacco is used.

Shisha Tobacco

Before the tobacco-phobes get all worked up, an explanation is order. This is an ancient recipe of India and the Middle East that consists of tobacco specially prepared, mixed in molasses and marinated in a rainbow of flavors. The most popular is apple but one  can select other flavors such as grape, honey, melon, cinnamon, banana, champagne and even chocolate. Non tobacco herbal blends are available as well. The emphasis is on the flavors which are experienced in a new way, not the tobacco which is just the media. What results is a cool, mild, moist smoke which is passed through the water in the bowl.

Shisha is a Social Activity

During the day, visitors will notice  Arab men and women outside of coffee shops chatting and enjoying their shisha in the afternoons. This is a centuries old tradition is a way to relax during the warmest part of the day. If you wish to try it, grab a table and ask the server for a shisha and decide on a flavor. You will be brought out a shisha pipe already hot and ready to go. The hoses have removable tips that are renewed for each customer. You can request a multihose pipe or you can just pass a single hose around among your best friends just like you did in college!  Another popular time for shisha is after dinner with drinks. Most tourist resorts provide this service.

Even if you don’t smoke you are in for a pleasant, relaxing, tasty and social experience. Everyone does it and as the saying goes, “When in Rome!”.

AED 200 Dirham Note

The Middle East has been a crossroads of trade for centuries as a result of being located halfway between Europe and Asia. This created rich traditions of commerce and a mixing of cultures. Most of theses cultures are astute businessmen so naturally spirited negotiations became an integral characteristic of the local economy.

The economic transactions that most visitors will encounter will be in the many spectacular, overly air-conditioned malls. These are mostly populated by well-known international companies where bargaining is considered poor form just as in the west. However, one can hone their haggling skills by going slightly off the beaten path. There are many shops owned by sole proprietors that will happily play the ancient game but you will have to look for them away from the tourist areas.

One of these areas is Al Meena. It is home to Port Zayed and all manner of small shops and is conveniently located near the Tourist Club. The entrance has carpet and furniture shops where one is sure to get a deal. Further in, you will find a rustic but well stocked vegetable market with goodies from all over the Middle East. Toward the waterfront there is a household goods area and the one of the largest plant nurseries around. The jewel of Al Meena is the fish market.  A loud and busy place, one can choose their favorite seafood from the many open air vendors and have it cooked onsite for a cheap and delicious meal.

Al Meena Fruit and Vegetable Market

Ship at Port Zayed

Gold can be bargained for in The  Gold Souks (shops) at the Madinat Zayed shopping center. Gold is inexpensive here as there are no taxes or VAT. Many stalls have similar products so find your best deal and don’t hesitate to walk to the next vendor for a better bargain. The gold trade is highly regulated in Abu Dhabi so you won’t get burned. Gold is taken very seriously here.

Prices are posted for everything, but start with an opening bid 40% below the posted tariff. A little bit of back-and-forth should end with smiles from both parties as an agreement is finally reached. Don’t be shy, the small shop owners expect it and enjoy the game. It always ends up a win-win situation!

Downtown Abu Dhabi

That’s right, the city of Abu Dhabi and in fact the whole country of the United Arab Emirates have no numbered street addresses as we know them in the west. 123 Elm Street just doesn’t exist. Everyone has post office box numbers in lieu of addresses. How mail gets delivered is a subject for a future post.

So how does one navigate the bustling city? By landmarks. Let’s say one wants to find a certain Chinese restaurant, the first task is to find the phone number. The phone books have numbers only so that is an easy task. Then you have to call the restaurant and hopefully get an English speaker to give you verbal directions. Have a pen and paper available to take notes. You may get something like this: Go north on 18th street until you get to Elektra street, turn right and take the second exit on the third roundabout, look for a mosque on the left then go two more blocks until you see the ADNOC gas station. We are in the building next to that on the second floor….you can’t miss it!

The absence of numbered street addresses does make things difficult at times, but fortunately most taxi drivers are familiar with the major destinations. If you are on your own, a good GPS unit, map and Google Earth will be your friend. These challenges can be overcome and just add to the uniqueness of Abu Dhabi!

Abu Dhabi Bus at Night

Having just started scheduled bus routes in June, 2008, Abu Dhabi’s public transportation system is still in its infancy.  In the last few years, the city put a lot of effort into modernizing and expanding the system.  The growth has been rapid and consistent although the number of routes and stops are a little on the thin side as of this writing.

What the system lacks in coverage, it makes up in economy. A trip costs 1 Dirham ( $0.37) and day passes are available for 3 Dirhams so you can ride all day until midnight for a little over a dollar. Since the buses are two years old or less, they are in excellent shape and clean. A fleet of 1400 is expected  in service by the end of 2010.

The fare is exact change dropped into a coin box next to the driver. The first few seats behind the driver are reserved for the ladies so guys, keep on moving to the back. Women can sit in the rear too if they wish. It is considered poor form for a man to be sitting when women are standing and he is expected to relinquish his seat. Care must be taken to plan a journey around rush hour as the buses fill up fast with the many expat workers going home.

One innovation at some of the larger stops are climate controlled enclosures, a must in the summer heat. Here a rider can purchase the day pass (Ojra) from an automated dispenser and find other information concerning the route system.  A very good interactive site for system information is here .

The bus system in Abu Dhabi is a good “Plan B”, but the many inexpensive taxis available are a preferable way to get around in the city. While Abu Dhabi is trying hard to develop the bus system, it may be a few years in the future before the buses are putting taxi drivers out of business!

Ramadan is set to start in Abu Dhabi August 11th. It is the holiest month in the Arabic calendar and is celebrated by Muslims worldwide. It is a time for penance, charity and introspection. Muslims practice fasting from dawn to dusk which means no eating, drinking, smoking or sex during the daylight hours. Each day after sunset,  the fast is broken by the Iftar, an evening meal of traditional Arabic dishes usually taken with family and friends. Ramadan is a very solemn month for Muslims.

In the United Arab Emirates as with most other middle eastern Muslim countries, it is illegal for anyone to ignore the daytime fasting rules, Muslim or not.  What this means for the visitor is one must refrain from public displays of the forbidden activities. If you are staying in a hotel, things are pretty much business as usual and although you may find restaurant windows screened off from public view you can still get breakfast and lunch. Care must be taken when outside the confines of the hotel, though.  Many local businesses keep abbreviated hours during Ramadan, too.

It is possible to have a great vacation in Abu Dhabi during Ramadan, but there are better times of the year to visit. Everyday activities are just more difficult during this time for many reasons and being hypoglycemic and dehydrated doesn’t help matters. Best to come during the cooler months anyway.

Piloting your own car in Abu Dhabi is not substantially different than in most western countries. The roads are in excellent shape, well lit at night and the numerous signs are bilingual Arabic/English. Traffic follows the U.S.A. convention of driving on the right. Most cars on the road are of a newer vintage and in excellent repair. Many are worth much more than most middle class annual salaries! However, there are some unique differences the visitor should be aware of:

• Avoid the left lane on the highway. Some drivers consider this as their own personal racetrack and speed limits are rarely enforced.
• The city center is very congested so expect to sit in gridlock frequently. Keep a pocketful of patience with you at all times.
• There are no numbered street addresses. Navigation is by landmarks or directions only.
• You will need an International Drivers’ License to rent a car in Abu Dhabi. Get one before you leave home at your local automobile association.
• Abu Dhabi is a melting pot of cultures and the many different driving styles range from amusing to maddening.  If you encounter the latter type keep your middle finger retracted, it is illegal to wave this particular extended digit around and you could land in jail.

Renting a car for a road trip is fine but if most of your journeys are within the city, save some frustration and take one of the numerous and cheap taxis.

Abu Dhabi

To many potential travelers, Abu Dhabi must seem like a mysterious, exotic outpost in the Middle East devoid of the familiar items that make life easier in the West. Nothing could be further from the truth. This city is home to world-class malls, modern pharmacies, huge grocery stores and state-of-the electronics vendors. Most everything one could desire is available here. However, there are a few exceptions.

Totally unnecessary items: No need to lug sunscreen, sandals, beach towels,  formal clothes or over the counter medicines halfway around the world when you can get all of these in Abu Dhabi. For those planning a romantic second (or third!) honeymoon, even the popular “ED” pills are available here without prescription. Travel light outbound and leave room to bring your new purchases back home.

Items you must leave at home: Abu Dhabi is modern and progressive city, but its roots and culture are Muslim. This means some OTC and prescription drugs are restricted entry into the U.A.E.. Read the list here for the latest official exclusions. It’s also a good idea to leave the thong bikini at home too, although most anything else goes. Delete those “iffy” files from the laptop, objectionable materials are forbidden.

One last hint: Make liberal use of en-route or airport duty-free liquor purchases. Once you leave the Abu Dhabi airport upon arrival, you will have no opportunities to acquire that 12 year old bottle of single malt scotch in the city to help chase away the jetlag. See Duty Free Rules .