Bangkok Eats: Tom Yum Koong or Gung? Goong??

Doesn’t matter how you transliterate “shrimp” from Thai, tom yum gung is a personal favorite of mine and I judge it harshly. Unlike traditional Pizza Napolitana in Italy, the recipe for this spicy sour soup with shrimp is not governed by law. The range of ingredients and style can be broad but I order it whenever I can.

Basically it starts with a chicken stock and adds galangal (similar to ginger), lemongrass, Kaffir lime leaves, and either fresh or dried chilies. None of these ingredients are there for eating but rather to add their fantastic flavor to the mix. Then come mushrooms and shallots, a bit of lime juice, a spoonful of chili oil and of course the shrimp, often cooked whole — head and all.

But the ratios of all this vary and thus the soup can lean toward the saltiness of the broth or the tanginess of the lime or citrus of the lime leaves and lemongrass. Spice levels also vary but it is generally pretty hot.

Then the variations of ingredients: some will add heart of palm or even fresh coconut flesh, some put a few tomatoes in there, and fresh coriander/cilantro is often laid on top of it just before serving. The broth will be clear or in many cases a bit cloudy with the addition of a splash of milk or coconut milk.

Restaurants will serve this in a large metal donut-shaped bowl (maw fai) for a small group with canned heat beneath it to keep it pretty hot. Scoop broth and bits into smaller bowls with little soup spoons. It’s a great starter for any meal but especially seafood.

My preferences are for the slightly cloudy version, nice and spicy, with good balances of flavors but making sure not to lose the Kaffir lime/lemongrass (which is often the element to go underdone in my opinion). Forget the tomatoes, but not the coriander/cilantro. Many of the larger food stall/courts serve it. Some of my favorite versions have been at the following restaurants but remember this isn’t a science and results may vary (as will tastes)! This soup can also be made with chicken (tom yum gai) — but not at my table!

Paka Krong Restaurant
Suda Restaurant

And though it pains me to say it, this one is closed right now as Central World is under wraps thanks to Red Shirt protesters:
Laem Cha-Reon Seafood Restaurant
(But they do have two other locations in Ram-Intra Road and Meng Jai)

This doesn’t even scratch the surface, of course. Got any favorites for tom yum? Please share. (I may have to go through the trouble of verification. A sacrifice I’m willing to make.)