It’s time to flee Bogota for the warmth that a beach trips bestows upon your bones, aching from the damp and altitude of the capital city. In Colombia there are so many places to choose from, Pacific or Caribbean you’ll have trouble identifying just one spot to visit. Indigenous names of exotic places roll off the tongue and plaster the pages of travel brochures in an attempt to lure you in. And eventually you have to give in, feel the sand between your toes and allow your head to be buffeted by a hot coastal breeze.

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So typical, so very ordinary, the bocadillo guava or indeed arequipe caramel filled roscon can be found in almost any bakery in the capital ready to cater to the hoi polloi.

However, in recent years a few enterprising souls have dared to push the boundaries of the banal roscon known to Bogotano grandparents by opening roscon dedicated cafes and offering savory options that include smoked salmon and ratatouille versions amongst others. If you are feeling adventurous and fancy a contemporary take on this traditional pastry, head to any one of the La Rosconeria outlets in Parque Central la Bavaria, Usaquen or even as far adrift as Villa de Leyva.

And, if your Colombian abuelita shudders at the thought of such heresy to a traditional sweet, then leave her behind, or just stroll through the Candelaria stopping at the antiquated bakeries and cafes along the way and try one from any quantity of traditional roscon options.

Casa Mexicana

Not a shadow of doubt that this is Bogota’s most authentic Mexican experience. The location is an unforgettable corner west of the Atlantis shopping center, but it’s what’s within that counts. Enormous plates of delicious food await, allowing you to refuel whilst taking a break from shopping in the Zona Rosa. If you don’t have  time for lunch then head here to pick up essential ingredients with which to create your own Mexican specialties from their overwhelming well stocked shop.

Agave Azul

The Macarena district is famous for many things, but one of the standout restaurants has to be the Agave Azul. This eatery can probably only seat a maximum of 12 people, at a squeeze, and dishes are designed so that you order a few between friends and then try everything. The pork is well worth a mention.

El Techo

We had to get one in here that feels a bit like a kitsch nightclub. Perhaps the food comes in a close second to the décor and the views offered from the top of the El Retiro shopping center in the Zona Rosa, but what’s to lose when you are with friends and enjoying the mariachis strolling between the tables and fantastically potent margaritas!?

Enchiladas

And how could we overlook the colonial Candelaria district, sometimes referred to as the Zona Culinaria for the offer of fine dining options? Up the hill on the Calle 10, close to all the museums that draw in the droves to this area, Enchiladas will leave you dreaming of your next visit to the Aztec nation. Head here for the Day of the Dead celebrations and feast yourself on Sopa de Tortilla.

Any visitor to Bogota will notice that beneath the tangle of tags and flyers pasted on the walls of the city that there is a true wealth of interesting political graffiti scattered about. So popular has viewing of this urban artwork become that there are even walking tours in the colonial Candelaria district to take in the more interesting and perhaps harder to find pieces. So, who is this Banksy in Bogota? Well, we don’t know yet but are happy that this creative and revealing style continues to stand head and shoulders above the work of other graffiti artists in the Colombian capital.

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Why? Well, Chapinero extends from the southern edge of Usaquen in the north at Calle 100 all the way south to Calle 39 making it one of Bogota’s most sizeable barrios. Of course, nowadays not all of this, while denominated as Chapinero, is considered the same area, giving way to more exclusively named barrios such as Rosales, Lago, Chico and so on.

Chapinero is home to luxury shopping malls, boutique hotels, fine religious sites, parks and notable restaurants in addition to being in some parts, a zone of tolerance and gay district.

In 2006, Chapinero was declared as the Zona Gay in Bogota in what was a landmark declaration by the then mayor of Bogota, Luis Eduardo Garzon. Really, the area about which the former mayor was referring to was anywhere west of the Avenida Septima and between Calles 55 and 64.

Here, same sex couples feel comfortable enough to walk hand in hand, hotels such as Hotel High Park catering to the gay crowd have sprung up and the gay nightlife scene has never been stronger with bars and clubs like Theatron and Brokeback Mountain drawing huge crowds on the weekends.

Even the predominant gym, Bodytech and the major supermarket, Carulla, in this area have received gay nomenclature in Bogota vernacular.  That Bodygay and  Gayrulla are now firmly on the map, the city’s politicians hope to convert the equally as imaginatively thought up Chapigay into an international gay destination of choice.

This is still Latin America where homophobia runs deep, but, things are moving ahead. Chapinero has a LGBT headquarters (Calle 66 No 9a-28), a travel agency by the name of Gay Travel and the gay pride march every year is better attended than the previous one.

Can Bogota become a gay friendly inclusive city? If Chapinero is anything to go by, Bogota is progressing fast.

San Andres and Providencia

These islands, closer to Nicaragua than to Colombia, are but a short flight from the mainland. San Andres is the package tourism destination of choice for Colombians from all over the country and has a vast amount of all-inclusive hotels lining white strips of idyllic beaches. If you are looking for that romantic getaway and a little more seclusion, then head to Providencia where the vibe measure clocks in at anywhere between laid back and positively horizontal!

Cartagena

As the eternal city of Colombian tourism, Cartagena possesses the infrastructure to cater for the masses within its charming colonial center. You can take your pick from elegant spa type boutique hotels in the Ciudad Vieja, resorts out on Bocagrande and in the La Boquilla and of course pristine beaches like those on the Islas del Rosario or Playa Grande.

Santa Marta, Taganga and Tayrona

Fly into Santa Marta the capital of the department of Magdalena and you have a wealth of options open to you. High quality Caribbean beaches abound about the city or you can choose to head 15 minutes along the coast to Taganga. Once a small village populated by humble fishermen, Taganga has become the backpacker destination of choice in the region for cheap PADI deals, affordable accommodation and decent nightlife. However, if you are looking to get back to nature then head further along the coast to mouthwateringly beautiful Tayrona National Park.

La Guajira and Palomino

For the more intrepid, a trip to the Guajira is to strike out like a pioneer into a land of arid desert, peculiar landscapes and indigenous practice. Here you couldn’t be further away from your creature comforts in Bogota! Accommodation will be in Wayuu Rancherias and water is scarce.  More sedate but still within the department of La Guajira is the up and coming beach destination of Palomino. Expect rustic cabanas on the beach, plentiful sea food and pure relaxation.

Tolu and Covenas

The preferred beach destination for the people from Medellin, the towns of Tolu and Covenas are not much to look at but cater precisely to their target audience. Here, like a Briton visiting the South of Spain, you can find paisas or residents of Medellin chowing down on traditional food from their region, watching the ubiquitous soccer game and bathing in the ocean. Venture a little further away and you’ll find beautiful beaches.

Capurgana and Sapzurro

Right up on the border close to Panama and the famed Darien Gap are two towns that are set to boom in future years so make your trip now before this happens. Costa Rica has rightly bagged the term “pura vida” but this is exactly what you find here in the Caribbean Choco region. Here the jungles tumble into an ocean teeming with fish. Tropical birds swoop overhead and the atmosphere will make you want to give up the rat race altogether and opt out.

The Pacific Coast Choco Region

Accessible only by air (or by boat from the coastal towns of Buenaventura and Tumaco), a flight out into Colombia’s Choco region is never quickly forgotten. Head to Bahia Solano, Valle or Nuqui and you will find wondrous eco-lodges catering to the adventurous soul. Whales breaching can be viewed from the shore near to Bahia Solano, the break at Nuqui has made it a premier surf destination and the Utria National Park near to Valle is not to be missed.

I dare you to stay in Bogota!

Fortunately, this is changing, I wouldn’t say reversing, as a huge amount still travels far and wide, but Colombians are becoming more particular in their tastes.

Traditionally Colombian coffee is served in a small “tinto” size served up in a handy thermos and comes sweetened to the point of being comparable to a petroleum derivative. Fortunately, small coffee growers, owners of haciendas and of course the inimitable and enormous outfit of Juan Valdez (created by the Colombian Coffee Growers Assoc) have started to address this issue offering quality beans and roasts more palatable to the discerning coffee quaffer.

Juan Valdez

The granddaddy of all Colombian chains, Juan Valdez is synonymous with coffee in Colombia. You can now find stylish cafes all over major cities.

Oma

Opened by a German – you guessed it – grandmother back in the day, Oma is a rival to Juan Valdez and often gives the major chain a run for their money on quality.

Diletto

More Italian in style, your wallet is going to be hit a little harder, but, the espressos are worth every penny. You’ll find Diletto’s in the well healed barrios of Bogota.

And now,

Onto the subject of tea. Hardly a major influence in Colombia, specialty teas may be the preferred hot drink full of antioxidants of Bogota bohemian crowd, but, there’s no doubting that it is making inroads into the national psyche. Supermarkets which in the past stocked the feeblest excuse for a teabag are now sporting shelves of options for the tea drinker. However, your best bet is to seek out the Taller de Te run by a Bogotana tea enthusiast par excellence.

Taller de Te

Located up in the thin air of above the Carrera 7, the Taller de Te or tea workshop is a true paradise for those wanting something different. Polished wooden floors greet you in addition to shelves stacked up with different varieties of tea and teapots. Out back there’s a covered garden showing clearly a rainwater recycling process making this a truly environmentally conscious experience in Bogota. Try the muffins or the almond croissants and if you are here on a cold afternoon you’ll be offered a blanket by the establishment in order to make your stay that little bit more comfortable.