The Dawn of World Cup 2010 South Africa

photo by Wagner T. Cassimiro "Aranha"

Although soccer is hands-down Argentina’s national pastime, the sport is treated more like religion than some weekend diversion. Friendly debates over which player is responsible for giving up that last goal can turn into shouting matches in a heartbeat, leaving unsuspecting (usually foreign) bystanders lost, desperately trying to determine if the topic of the rapid-fire argument is still some 20-year old guys running around kicking a ball.

photo by slurve

Being that Buenos Aires has a tendency to prioritize their beloved futbol matches, going so far as to block main traffic routes to let busloads of players pass, it should come as no surprise that the city downright shuts down during the World Cup. University students skip classes without consequence, normally abundant taxis are nearly impossible to find, and just going about your daily life can prove to be a challenge like no other, given that millions consider the weeks of the World Cup to be a free, work-optional vacation. Best to do like the locals and give in to futbol, but be warned: publicly rooting for any team but Argentina will not be tolerated.

Where to catch these matches isn’t much of a mystery. Stroll down any busy commercial avenue or quiet back lane and you’ll hear the shouts and cheers that can only mean one thing – World Cup. Soccer is the true game of the people, and Buenos Aires is more no-frills democratic than high-tech when it comes to airing World Cup matches. For months TV screens have been loaded into storefronts, hoisted onto bar counters, and positioned in shop corners so no one has to miss even a minute of play. For those who may want a little more organization in the World Cup viewing, try out the following suggestions:

photo by slurve

Malasartes. Drop by this popular Palermo spot for your package-deal tickets, good for in-house viewings of various matches, and drinks and snacks to keep your energy up.

Casa Bar. This American-owned downtown bar may be more friendly for foreigners more accustomed to the sports bar atmosphere. The selection of imported and artisan beverages will quench your thirst when things get tough on the field.

Movie theaters. As in the past, Argentina has secured FIFA’s permission to project World Cup games in the main theaters all over the country. Catch Argentina’s first match, against Nigeria, Saturday June 12 at 11am.

Estación Retiro. Now you don’t have to miss a second of play, even while in transit. Retiro train station has mounted a gigantic hifi screen for commuters.

Plaza San Martín. What is perhaps the largest screen in the city is standing free in this leafy central plaza, where the ample space will certainly drawn massive crowds to catch Argentina’s matches.