There was nothing new for Copenhagen’s top restaurants when the Michelin Guide 2011 was unveiled yesterday, March 16.
With everything pretty much as it had been before, it almost looked like Michelin had forgotten to update the guide: Noma retained its two stars but failed to get the top third star rating critics had been anticipating for the world’s top restaurant.
And while the Danish gastronomic scene was openly dismayed by the result, Noma’s manager, Peter Kreiner, claimed he himself had not raised his expectations too high, dismissing the notion that ‘making do’ with two Michelin stars was anything to be disappointed about. Noma continues to be the sole restaurant in Denmark to have this many stars.
Things were less positive chez Geranium, where despite having being named world’s best chef at this year’s Bocuse d’Or, Geranium’s Rasmus Kofoed had to make do with a ‘rising star’ – the Michelin Guide’s indication of a restaurant with star potential.
Frederiksberg’s Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, also strongly tipped to join the elite club, was not awarded with a star. Instead, the nine restaurants AOC, Kokkeriet , Kiin Kiin, Formel B, The Paul, Era Ora, Herman at Nimb, Kong Hans Kælder and out-of-town Søllerød Kro kept hold of their one, while MR, which finally fell to economic problems last year, and Paustian—now under new ownership—lost their stars.
More positive for Copenhagen was the new round of Bib Gourmand awards – those given to restaurants who serve good food at more mortal prices. Orangeriet in Kongens Have, Christian S. Pugsili’s Relæ, the tiny Italian restaurant Enomania on Vesterbrogade, rugby-tinted Mêlée in Frederiksberg, the Black Diamond’s Søren K and the restaurant at Skovshoved Hotel were all awarded new Bib Gourmands.
Those restaurants that received Bib Gourmands last year all got to keep their commendation—with the exception of smart, minimalist sushi bar Oubæk.
Photos courtesy of Restaurant Herman in Nimb (top) and Søllerød Kro as well as Wonderful Copenhagen.