The end of summer welcomes three contrasting new restaurants to Copenhagen, all with their own specialties and all in quite different neighborhoods. New Nordic cuisine, modern bistro food and a menu composed completely of gruel all add their own distinct flavor to Copenhagen’s restaurant scene.
Seasonal Scandinavian produce at Radio
Close to Forum Metro Station on the edges of Vesterbro and Frederiksberg, the former Radiohuset concert hall of national broadcaster DR has been completely renovated into a fresh eatery with a decor that is both rustic and urban. Pioneer of the new Nordic food movement, Claus Meyer, has attempted to make a kind of “people’s Noma,” a modest and open place serving seasonal three-course menus heavy on local fruit and vegetables at affordable prices. The hype conflicts a little with the concept however, and a flood of advance bookings prior to Radio’s opening has put paid to just dropping by – call and reserve beforehand.
Restaurant Radio, Julius Thomsens Gade 12, Frederiksberg/Vesterbro
Satisfy your tummy at Restaurant Maven
The restaurant locale inside the old church Nikolaj Kirke, in the heart of downtown Copenhagen, certainly doesn’t lack for atmosphere, its romantic interior combined with outdoor serving on the cobbled square outside. After sitting empty for some time the place has reopened as Restaurant Maven, a self-styled modern bistro. The name, “the stomach”, comes from the nickname for the square, which operated for a long time as a meat market. The menu mixes French bistro food with Italian as well as Danish classics, with mains priced either side of DKK 200.
Restaurant Maven, Nikolaj Plads 12, Indre Byen
World’s first gruel bar
The health conscious have previously opened juice bars and soup bars—but only in Denmark could two enterprising young men manage to open an eatery where every dish on the menu is a variation on the Scandinavian “grød”’. The world’s first gruel bar, ‘Grød’ focuses on Denmark’s appreciation for this national dish (made famous to foreigners by the almost impossible to say “rødgrød med fløde”, or red berry gruel with cream), with oatmeal, risottos and other soft dishes of both the sweet and savoury variety, all priced between DKK 30 and 60. Grød can be found on specialist, offbeat food street Jægersborggade, in outer Nørrebro.
Grød, Jægersborggade 50, Nørrebro
Image courtesy of Radio.