Waipio Valley

Child fishing during Kona sunset

Kealakekua Bay

Looking south from Kealakekua

Yes, a zebra in South Point!

Warm pond at Issac Hale Beach Park

Looking east down the Puna coast

Kalapana Lava Flow

Hilo Bay and Mauna Kea

Beautiful Ho`okena Beach

Kalapana's own Star of the Sea

The church holds a deep history of the area. It was built in 1927 and 1928 under the direction of the Belgian Catholic missionary priest Father Evarist Gielen, who painted the upper section of the church interior himself. About 15 years later an artist from Georgia painted the lower part, completing the paint job. The church has a connection to the island of Moloka`i, as the paintings tell the story of Father Damien. The Catholic priest who moved down to Kalaupapa, the leprosy colony on Moloka`i. He bettered the conditions for the people and lived with them until his death.

Today, the church still stands in the Kalapana sun, a link to the past of Kalapana as a beloved town for residents which held world class surf spots, a flourishing and tight knit community, and long sandy beaches that don’t exist in the area today. Madam Pele wiped out the town, beaches, and surf with her flow. Lava is still flowing into the area today, but farther back and up the mountain, not right where the town was.

If you keep to the left of the fork in the road just below the church, you’ll come to the vast lava field where the church once stood before being moved form the approaching lava. A visit to the Star of the Sea is perfect for any history buff, and inside provides a wonderful and colorful photo opportunity.

Green Sand Beach at South Point

A collection of sharp contrasts of fine sand and rocky cliffs and a spectrum of blues and earth tones, the beach is a mini adventure that’s not easily accessible, like most things worth finding. Located two miles from the end of the road at the steep towering South Point cliffs, you’ll pass open and often dry pasture lands dotted with grazing cows, rusty wind turbines of only which some are still functional, and experience a sense of peace and seclusion like no other.

Looking east

Turn onto winding South Point Road off of Highway 11 between mile markers 69 and 70, and take a slow cruise down to the cliffs (driving slow is an unwritten rule on the Big Island). At the cliffs, look down nearly a hundred feet at the ocean, and you may even see some daring people leaping off into the deep blue. From there either walk or take a four wheel drive vehicle down the road on the left. It’s a long walk, so if you attack it on foot make sure you have plenty of water, food and sunblock. It’s not a treacherous road, but a 4X4 vehicle is necessary.

Once out there, feel the fresh air, enjoy the wind, and take a dip in the ocean – given that the water is calm. There won’t be help for miles around except for possibly a few other visitors joining you.

Up Close and Personal

Every night Manta Ray Dives Hawaii guides around 20 people to popular manta feeding waters near the Keahole Airport. Snorkelers float on the water’s surface while certified divers linger 25-feet below, both groups making large circles by holding on to pool rings in which the mantas swim in the center. Dive lights attract plankton which bring a swarm of mantas, the largest dubbed Big Bertha boasting a 16-foot wing span. “It’s a joyful experience, everyone leaves very happy,” says Bryn Bonham, office manager of the 15 year old company.

Bonham says brine shrimp, manta’s favorite plankton, envelope the guests and “The mantas come within inches of everyone. You can hear people screaming excitedly.” The unique experience is open to people of all ages (the youngest guest was four), and divers needn’t be intimidated since the gentle and shy animals lack stingers and teeth. Gills filter water sucked in through the mouth and plankton is siphoned to the stomach.

Although sightings can’t exactly be guaranteed, Bonham says a manta free dive is rare. “For the last couple of months we’ve seen 20 to 25 a night,” she says. And for the rare occasion mantas don’t line up at the plankton buffet? Not to worry, says Bonham, “If you don’t see mantas you’re invited to come again for free.”

Dives happen year round since Kona sees only a slight variation in water temperature keeping the family run company busy. Nearly three years ago Bonham’s mother Dani Knapp-Bonham purchased the company. Her two other children work as snorkel guides, helping groups of visitors and the occasional local navigate the waters and educate them on manta etiquette. “It’s important for divers not to touch the animals. They’re covered in a protective mucus membrane and even a light touch from a human can cause an infection or lesion,” Bonham advises.

The Kona dives offer a rare chance to come face to face with mantas, many distinctly marked and named. Because of their size they’re rarely kept in captivity and only a small number of aquariums world wide have mantas on display.

While each side of the island has spots known to locals as great for swimming with dolphins, one of the most beloved place to hop in the water with both bottle nose and the smaller spinner dolphins is Ho`okena Beach Park in South Kona. Brimming with rich cultural history, the beach is known to have been one of the last traditional fishing villages in Hawaii. It’s also wonderful for kayaking, swimming, snorkeling, and for camping.

Mid-morning beauty

To put it simply, Ho`okena is a special place. To reach the beach visitors must descend down a steep and windy paved road, that is a little over a mile long – you wouldn’t want to walk up or down this hill. A panoramic ocean and coastline view is a treat on the way down and makes picture taking enticing, although the blind turns and steep hills make that idea quite unsafe.

At the bottom you veer left and reach the beach, made of fine grayish blackish sand that is wonderful for children to make sand castles out of. The beach is about medium sized, with showers and restrooms available. You’ll also see a stack of kayaks for rent.

Anyway, Ho`okena is known for the dolphins that frequent the usually calm waters, and it’s quite often that they hand out all day long. Otherwise, seeing dolphins in the morning is almost a guarantee any day of the week. Often calm waters thanks to mellow winds are a blessing at Ho`okena, and make swimming a little way out in the ocean with the dolphins quite easy – for good swimmers that is.

When you spot the dolphins, head out a bit, but make sure to not be aggressive and try not to get directly in their way. It’s a good idea to try not to charge right into the pod of dolphins, but to linger nearby and if they’re comfortable they will get closer. What’s awesome about swimming with dolphins is that you don’t have to be right smack in the middle of them for satisfactions, just being even 10 yards from them is a magical experience like nothing else.

Ho`okena Mermaid

Close your eyes and put your head underwater, and you can hear them. Look at them while treading water and watch them jump and spin and play with each other. Bring a water camera and you will most likely be able to get some cool shots. If you decide to swim with them, you most likely won’t be the only person doing so. Ho`okena is known for dolphin swimming and while the group swimming out won’t be huge, there will probably be a few other people. To get to Ho`okena, head south out of Kona and you’ll see the sign on the right.

I swam with the Ho`okena dolphins a few weeks ago, and a “mermaid” even joined us.

Kealakekua Bay

Today, the bay is simply beautiful. Residential homes and vacation rentals surround the area, and locals and visitors alike enjoy Kealakekua Bay and the nearby beach park. The bay juts far inland between the two points, and washes into a rocky beach where black pebbles and boulders make up a crescent shaped beach to sun bathe on (if you find rocks comfortable, which I do).

Outrigger Canoe

Just outside of Kailua-Kona, Kealakekua Bay is one of those places where the water is usually a bright tropical turquoise rather than a deep navy blue. It’s an absolutely perfect place to kayak, and you can easily find one to rent from one of the local rental places right at the bay. You’ll see signs in the parking lot, or you may be offered a rental by a friendly local. Mornings are the best since the wind is usually at its calmest, but unless it’s a particularly windy day you can usually kayak all day long.

Look for the shaded chair made of two large flat rocks at the back of the beach if you’d like to take in the view while relaxing in the shade. For an idea of what the Hawaiians used to travel over the ocean, check out the outrigger canoe resting on the sand at the south end of the beach. There’s also a sacred Hawaiian heiau at the south end bordering the parking lot. This is the equivalent to a church for the Hawaiians.

Sacred heiau

To get to the bay, turn down Napo`opo`o Road and head to the very bottom. Here, you’ll see another beach park frequented by locals. Give them a friendly wave as you make a right towards Kealakekua Bay. Sun is the most frequent visitor to the bay, making it a great place to spend a large part of your day. You can bring a picnic lunch and spend some time in the shade. Swimming is usually quite protected at the shoreline and often safe, but there’s no lifeguard.

Kayak rentals are usually for an unlimited amount of hours so it’s a good idea to bring everything you could need for a day at the beach and enjoy the sun and ocean on the kayak. Don’t forget the camera for this day trip.

What’s awesome about Uncle Billy’s in addition to having the lowest rates in the area, is that the hotel is smack dab in the center of the action – right there on the main street of beautiful Kailua town across from the ocean, and many rooms have an ocean view. The modest but nice hotel has a tropical island decor and feel, and even has a pool and hot tub.

Ocean view from my third floor room

The hotel is a little reminiscent of the 70s, with some deep orange here and there around the grounds. Uncle Billy’s isn’t a luxury resort – let’s make that clear – but it’s affordable, clean, and simply nice. The staff has always appeared to be mostly local, offering aloha and a relaxed local style warmth.

In close proximity are shops, restaurants and bars, and coffee shops and breakfast places to drive or walk to at the start of the day. I spent about an hour each morning around 9 a.m. at the pool and every time I was the only one there, and the sun was already bright and burning.

A standard room starts at $79. A deluxe room starts at $99, and a superior starts at $89. All rooms offer a free continental breakfast, and a $4 a night discount for a two or more night stay. They also offer kama`aina (resident) rates.

Visit www.unclebilly.com for more info.

At the pub you’ll the option of gourmet pizzas with unique toppings. From Pacific themed toppings to classic Italian, you can choose from one of their signature pies or create your own. The appetizers, or pupus, are also really great. My personal favorites are mac nut pesto cheese bread and the Kawaihae Cajun seared ahi has a wonderful reputation. There’s also sandwiches and some salads to enjoy.

Pick up some growlers to take to the beach

Now for the beer. Remember that it’s always a good idea to try what they have on draft, since they offer beers not found in stores. A personal favorite is the Black Sand Porter, the Koko Brown, and the Pipiline Porter. The Waialua Wheat is truly amazing for a lighter golden ale with a hint of lilikoi , or passion fruit.

Along with good food and drink, complimentary brewery tours are available daily from 10:30 a.m. to to 3 p.m., seven days a week. Tour the flagship brewery (the beer is also now produced in Oregon) and get an inside look at the crew of six who produces the brew.

You can dress up a bit at the pub, or roll in straight form the beach with sand between your toes. Just make sure to go either way. I spent an evening their last week and can vouch for the fact you may want to make reservations first :)

If you find yourself down along the Puna coast, make sure to stop at Ahalanui Park were this is a pretty huge brackish water pond that is geothermally heated. Of course it’s not was hot as a hut tub, but it’s pretty darn warm, especially on a lower tide. There’s a good chance there will be other visitors there, but it’s still fun and romantic to swim in an ocean side warm pond with your sweetheart (called ku`uipo in Hawaiian).

For more secluded romantic time, take a hike, or maybe a rather long walk is a better term, out to Shipman Beach. The trail head is at the bottom of Kaloli Drive in Paradise park, and after parking (don’t leave valuables in car) you’ll walk for about an hour through banyan tree tunnels, weave in and out of the bushes and near the ocean, and arrive at a hidden gorgeous cove. Because the property behind the beach is privately owned, the only other access is through the trail. The beach is medium size with white sand covering black sand, and a small cover of water opening up to the open ocean. You’ll want to be careful here because although the inner part of the cove is somewhat protected you could still get swept out. Fresh water bubbles up through the fine sand in some areas and sea turtles and endangered monk seals frequent the area. If you see them, please stay at least 10 feet away. So make sure to spend a day at Shipman, bring a picnic and plenty of water. There’s a good chance you’ll be alone out here.

With the lava on a seemingly endless mission to erupt on the Big Island, the Kalapana sky is often boasting a bright red glow at night. This is far from actually seeing the lava up close, so don’t expect to walk right up to the stuff. But after a day in Puna taking a little while to gaze at the red glow of Pele from the hood of the car is quite relaxing, unique, and romantic with the bright stars and maybe even a moon above. Head down Kalapana Highway and when you come to the lava field find a parking spot road side and enjoy.

For a romantic meal after all of these outdoor activities, there’s a few options. In Pahoa there is Paolo’s Bistro. Here you’ll find a smaller menu with homestyle Italian, a quaint small and homey restaurant, and a very friendly head chef and owner. And, he’s actually from Italy. It’s BYOB here, so feel free to stop into the nearby health food store or supermarket and pick up a bottle of wine or a few beers. Simply put, pretty much all of Paolo’s food is great! The bread is homemade, and last I checked the pasta was too. I suggest the potato gnocchi as an appetizer and whatever strikes your fancy for a main course. It’s usually dimly lit, though not dark in here and somewhat quiet.

In Hilo Miyo’s has great Japanese food. No sushi here, but a lot curries, meat and rice dishes, and a lot of fish main courses backed up by salads and appetizers. Here too it’s BYOB and don’t miss a dessert of Hilo Homemade Ice Cream with exotic flavors like green tea and poha berry. It can get crowded in here at night, it’s good to make a reservation or get there a little early. Otherwise, a wait probably won’t be too long. It can get a bit loud but it’s a nice atmosphere and the restaurant overlooks ponds with ducks floating in them. The food is great and the service is good, one of the best places for dinner in Hilo.

The pizzas come whole only, not by the slice. The pies come slightly on the smaller side and each piece is a smaller triangle compared to the standard huge slice. But it’s really good.

One really tasty drink to have with a meal at Cafe Pesto is the lilikoi margarita. It’s simple lilikoi (passion fruit) juice, tequila and ice and it is really good. They have a full drink and wine menu along with desserts, salads, calzones (really big ones) and other yummy appetizers.

Cafe Pesto is nice enough to dress up and not feel out of place but you can also go in there fresh from the beach during the day as long as you have a shirt and shoes on. The restaurant is one of the more modern and fun restaurants in Hilo with black and white checkered flooring, lovely local art on the walls, and servers wearing only black. Meals run around $30 and under.