The Jewish Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem today lies above the upper city of Jerusalem during Temple times–stop by the Wohl Archaeological Museum to see the remains of some of the beautiful mansions of the wealthy and upper class Jerusalemites of the Herodian period.

Ancient synagogues are scattered throughout the quarter, as are remnants of the Byzantine and Roman Cardo market places. Stores, cafes and residential homes make up the rest of the quarter, so be sure to wander around the back alleys as you make your way down to the Western Wall–the centerpiece of the Old City today.

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From the Mount of Olives © Judy Lash Balint

The Mount of Olives is mentioned in several places in the Bible: the Book of Samuel tells us this is where David fled from Absalom and the prophet Zachariah foretells that when the Messiah comes the resurrection of the dead will begin here. That’s one of the main reasons that Jews all through the centuries have wanted to be buried on the Mount of Olives.

If you look carefully at the bedrock below you on the mountain, you’ll still be able to make out some of the First Temple era burial caves that are dotted all over the area. It’s all part of the necropolis that surrounds the Old City, since Jews were never permitted to be buried inside the city walls.

For Christians, the Mount of Olives resonates as the place where Jesus spent time on the mountain, teaching his disciples.  At the bottom of the mountain, where the Church of All Nations lies today, sits the Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus spent his last days.

Looking over toward the Old City, the magnificent Dome of the Rock and Al Aksa are visible on the Temple Mount and a little further in the distance are the grey domes of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Some of the 150,000 graves of the ancient cemetery are below you as you look westward, and it’s not unusual to see small groups of people clustered around particular graves as they come to pay their respects on the anniversary of the death of a loved one or a revered figure.

Mt of Olives cemetery: © Judy Lash Balint

Look to your right from the viewpoint to see the small “teardrop” church, Dominus Flavit, half way down the slope; with the shiny gold onion domes of the Mary Magdalene Russian Church just below that nestled amongst the trees.

Behind you is the 7 Arches Hotel, which was built in the early 1960s when the whole area was occupied by Jordan and off-limits to Israelis.  This is where the PLO was founded in 1964.

A few practical tips:

1. Try to get to the viewpoint before noon.  Once the sun has passed overhead, the glare will make it much harder to enjoy the view.

2. This is a prime pickpocket crime zone.  Keep your wits about you and watch out for the pre-teens who will pop up out of nowhere offering you maps, panoramic photos and other junk while their friends eye your pocketbook.

3. If you’ve ever been tempted to take a camel ride, this is probably one of the best places to get that out of your system.  You’ll get a short ride and a Kodak moment for around $10.

The Jerusalem Scavenger Hunt

This is one of the most creative and fun activities in Jerusalem for families, particularly those with teenagers tagging along. There are several itineraries to choose from that will take your teens on a fascinating, active, fun journey through different parts of Jerusalem, as they try to figure out the clues.

Getting clues for the Jerusalem Scavenger Hunt

Segway Tours

A novel way to see the city that should appeal to curious teenagers. Climb on a segway, strap on a helmet and roll in and out of places that might otherwise be inaccessible.

ATV Rides

Every teenager will want a go on one of these vehicles that are available to tour a variety of terrain just outside Jerusalem.

Zip Lining

15 minutes outside Jerusalem is the 2nd longest Zipline in the world and the longest in Israel.  Need I say more??

The Ramparts Walk

There are two routes that take visitors along the top of the walls of the Old City.  Each one takes about 2-3 hours to complete as your teens will let off some steam as they climb the many stairs up and down the ramparts that were used by Turkish soldiers for hundreds of years as they patrolled the walls to protect the city from intruders.  There’s lots to see from up above, and they’ll get a new view of the different quarters of the city from high up on the walls.

The Ramparts of Jerusalem's City Wall.© Judy Lash Balint

Olive wood carving of the Western Wall

So what to buy and where, when you want to remember your visit to Jerusalem?

One good place to start is the Israel Museum Shop.  Add an extra half hour to your planned visit to the Israel Museum and browse the beautiful and non-kitschy items at the Shop. Prices are reasonable and many of the items are hand-made or are replicas of some of the interesting objects at the museum.

For the best selection of Judaica items, including tallitot, head to the shops in the Cardo section of the Old City. Here, in stores located in the same place that merchants sold their wares back in Byzantine and even Roman times, you’ll find knowledgeable sales assistants who can help pick out just the right gift.  Almost everything here is locally made—unlike in some of the stores along the Ben Yehuda Street Mall, where the Made in China label is found on many items.

For Christian souvenirs, try the stores along Christian Quarter Road in the Old City. It helps to know your stuff here though–some of the “genuine olive wood” items on sale wouldn’t pass the authenticity test.  You can pick up some gorgeous inlaid mother-of-pearl items, though.  Be prepared for some serious bargaining…

Store in the Christian Quarter, Old City. Photo: Judy Lash Balint

To bring a taste of Israel back home, consider the real halvah available from a couple of stalls in the covered section of the Machane Yehuda market between Jaffa Road and Agripas Street.  It’s nothing like the packaged dry stuff that passes for halvah back home.  A chunk of pistachio or chocolate chip halvah packaged in a stiff plastic box will stay fresh and makes a good gift.

Israel is renowned for its jewelery design, and some of the most popular pieces are available at the Michal Negrin store in Mamilla, or at several of the other boutiques lining the mall that leads to Jaffa Gate.

Israel Museum

Jerusalem doesn’t have just one “art museum” – - there are many places to take in art in the holy city, so here are some suggestions to get you started.

The Israel Museum

The renewed Israel Museum (reopened in 2010) is the first stop for anyone interested in the broadest expanse of Israeli and Jewish art. Here, in beautiful galleries, visitors can view the permanent exhibits that include the Mandel Wing for Jewish Art and Life; temporary exhibits in the Wexner Gallery; the Safra Fine Arts Wing that includes everything from Israeli Art, Contemporary and Modern Art to an Asian Art section and Prints and Drawings.  The Art Garden on the western side of the Museum is quite spectacular–dotted with pieces by some of the great sculptors of the 19th and 20th centuries.

Jewish art in the Israel Museum

L.A. Meyer Museum for Islamic Art

This private museum is a small gem. Located near the Presidents Residence and the Jerusalem Theater, the Islamic Art Museum features one of the most important collections of Islamic art in the world. Pieces include artifacts from the 7th to the 19th centuries and there’s always an interesting temporary exhibit too.

Wolfson Jewish Art Museum

Right next door to the imposing Great Synagogue on King George Street in the Hechal Shlomo Building, you’ll find a fascinating collection of Jewish objects and art.  Here you’ll find sacred objects used in synagogues from all over the world as well as paintings and sculptures by some of the world’s most renowned Jewish artists.  Here too, there’s always an interesting temporary exhibit.

Anna Ticho House

In the center of town, the Anna Ticho House (that also houses a wonderful kosher dairy cafe) is the place to see a collection of Anna Ticho’s paintings of Jerusalem as well as the temporary exhibit in the small first floor gallery.  Anna Ticho House is a branch of the Israel Museum and also features a wonderful art library on the ground floor.

Excavations in the Old City: Photo: Judy Lash Balint

There are a few places in and around the Old City where visitors can go underground to get a glimpse of what life was like in ancient times.

The Western Wall Tunnel Tour

Book ahead for this 90-minute walk that will take you down many levels below the piece of the Western Wall, the last remnant of the Temple, that is visible today.

Largest stone in western Wall; Photo: Bibleplaces.com

As you descend into the tunnel that starts at the northern side of the Western Wall plaza, the incredible feat of engineering started by King Herod back in 37 BCE will unveil itself before your eyes. Take a good look at the massive stones that make up the lower levels of the Temple mount.

Your guide will take you on a walk along the entire length of the western wall, down about 14 levels of stones from what is visible above ground today. Along the way, you’ll encounter discoveries from several periods of ancient history, including a Hasmonean-era aqueduct and Roman-era stones.  Emerge into the Via Dolorosa and explore Jerusalem of 2012 at ground level.

The Burnt House

Burnt House, Jerusalem.

Not too far away from the tunnels, in the Jewish Quarter, is the Burnt House–the remains of a Second Temple-era home belonging to the Katros family–a well-to-do family whose members served as High Priests in the Temple. According to archeologists, the house was burned at the time when the Romans destroyed the Temple in 70 A.D.  Today, visitors walk down from street level to the remains of the house, which has been covered by the lively Jewish Quarter.  There’s an interesting 20-minute holograph presentation in English that will fill you in on the events that led up to the pillage of Jerusalem.  Afterwards, be sure to look around the rooms to see the restored remains that were found there when the Jewish Quarter was excavated in the 1970s.