The South Side is a real visitor destination as it is known for its multiple long white sand beaches and very sunny weather. However, the cultural significance of the area is perhaps the strongest on the island and is worth a visit.

1. Spouting Horn Park
Spouting Horn Park was called puhi, or blowhole, by early Hawaiians. Legends tell of a huge mo`o, or lizard, caught in this puhi, which was formed when waves eroded softer, underlying rock and wore through the harder top rock. Water rushing into the hole is forced through the narrow opening and shoots skyward.

Spouting Horn

2. Prince Kuhio Birthplace & Park
Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole was born in Koloa in a grass hut near this beach to Princess Kinoike Kekaulike and High Chief David Kahalepouli Pi`ikoi. He became a delegate to U.S. Congress after Hawai`i became a Territory in 1900, serving for 19 years. He worked tirelessly on behalf of the Hawaiian people.

3. Hanaka’ape Bay & Koloa Landing
Once, Koloa Landing was the third largest whaling port in all of Hawai`i and the only port of entry for foreign goods. The Sugar industry increased its use until 1912, when better facilities became available elsewhere. Goods and people were transferred by hand and small boat to ships in Hanaka`ape Bay.

4. Pa’u a Laka – Moir Gardens
What began as a hobby garden by the Koloa Plantation Manager’s wife became celebrated as one of the world’s best of its kind. Numerous cactus planted in the 1930s thrived in the arid, rocky soil here. Many escaped to surrounding areas to become naturalized over time. You’ll also find water lily-filled lava rock ponds, koi and a variety of orchid and catus species.

5. Kihahouna Heiau
The walled heiau (temple) that once stood here was 130 feet by 90 feet; dedicated to Kane, a major god of Hawaii; Hulukoki, a bird god; and Ku-hai-moana and Ka-moho-alii, two shark gods. Three hala-lihilihi-ula trees situated on the outside of the naupaka hedge mark the heiau perimeter.

6. Poipu Beach Park
Abundant, easy-to-view marine life in calm waters is a major attraction at Po`ipu Beach. The endangered native Hawaiian Monk seal and threatened Green sea turtle are frequent visitors. From November through May, the endangered Humpback whale appears. Ancient Hawaiians fished and played here and harvested salt in dug-out evaporating pans nearby.

Glorious Po`ipu Beach Park

7. Keoneloa Bay
Between 200 and 600 A.D., early visitors arrived at Keoneloa Bay, meaning long sand, likely from the Marquesas Islands. They used the area as a temporary fishing camp, leaving behind stone-age tools, remnants of heiau, or temples, and ahu, or altars. They prayed to Kane`aukai, an important fishing god.

8. Makawehi & Pa’a Dunes
The lithified sand dunes of Makawehi, calm face, and Pa`a, hard rock, yield fossilized plant roots, bird bones, crab claws and other treasures. Prior to extensive wave erosion, this prominent limestone ridge extended across Keoneloa Bay. During March through November, water birds visit and sea birds nest and roost in the dunes.

9. Pu’uwanawana Volcanic Cone
More than 5 million years ago, a hotspot in the earth spewed lava upward to form the volcanic mountain island of Kaua`i. Nearby Ha`upu Ridge and Mountain contain some of the oldest geologic formations. Look for the youngest volcanic cones such as Pu`uwanawana, within view. Weathered volcanic material produced rich agricultural plains.

10. Hapa Road
Lava rock walls near Hapa Road signify Hawaiian habitation ca. 1200 A.D., while the road dates to the late 1800s. Nearby tracks once held trains hauling cane to Koloa Plantation for milling. Hapa Road served as a supply and emergency evacuation route during World War II, and at various times a foot- and bicycle path.

11. Koloa Jodo Mission
Buddhist temples provided Japanese immigrants a place to worship, study their language, learn martial arts and participate in social events. This Jodo Mission used a specialist in temple architecture from Japan to build the large temple’s interior. Hand-painted, wooden ceiling tiles were a gift from the Japanese artist who rendered them.

12. Sugar Monument
Ancient Polynesians were the first to bring sugar cane to Hawai’i. Starting with its first cane seeding in 1835, Koloa Plantation was the first in Hawai’i to successfully mill cane commercially for export. It set the precedent for free housing and medical benefits for its immigrant employees from China, Japan, East and West Germany, Portugal and the Philippines.

13. Yamamoto Store & Koloa Hotel
Built at the turn of the 20th century, The Yamamoto Building functioned at various times as a plantation camp store and general store with service station. Behind it, the Koloa Hotel offered rooms to traveling salesmen and actors. The o-furo, or hot tub, provided a relaxing soak to guests.

Info plaque at Spouting Horn

14. Koloa Missionary Church
Koloa Missionary Church sanctuary is part of a homestead once owned by Dr. James W. Smith, a medical missionary. In 1842, he began a practice of over 40 years, later becoming an ordained minister at The Church at Koloa. His grandson, Dr. Alfred Herbert Waterhouse, added a clinic to the homestead in 1933.

Serving as home to a mere 120 residents fluent in Hawaiian, Ni’ihau has a single village called Pu’uwai that consists of a church, homes, and a K-12 school. Purchased by ancestors of the current owners in 1864, Ni’ihau was offered to them by a reluctant King Kamehamhea V, who wanted them to take swampy beach land on O’ahu instead. Seeing no value in the O’ahu property, which would later become Waikiki, the family bought Ni’ihau for a price equalling around $10,000 today. Environmentalist Keith Robinson is part owner of the island and allows only those invited by a resident to visit, hence the nickname the “Forbidden Island.”

Measuring just 17-miles long, Ni’ihau holds a surprising number of hidden treasures: Hawaii’s first and second largest lakes; the state’s best sunrise shell beach; several epic surf breaks, including one that is said to rival Jaws on Maui when it breaks at 40 feet; unique animals; reef shark breeding grounds; and of course, Ni’ihau’s famous shells.

During an hour-long air tour of the island, I took in stunning views of the landscape while being treated to a close-up look at several pods of dolphins, beaches, sheep, and horses. I even got a quick look at the elusive tall horned oryx, a species of antelope introduced by the owners.

The island’s single red dirt road, the “Ni’ihau Highway” wove through the lush vibrant green grass blanketing the island. According to the pilot, seeing Ni’ihau so fertile is a rare sight and a product of a wet winter—a luxury for an island so arid the environment is inhospitable for Hawai’i’s tropical flowers. Ni’ihauans often use shells to make their lei.

Soon after a quick and distant peak at Pu’uwai, we touched down on a flat black lava rock landing pad on a northern beach. Nearby a curly horned ram, a monk seal sunbathed together on the white sand. A lone pavilion provided the only shade from here to the village, and looking across the ocean to Kaua’i’s west coast, I was finally on the inside looking out.

I meandered along the beach for hours, wandering through boat debris of buoys, netting, and a seemingly endless rainbow of glass bottles hoping to find a glass buoy.

Between the old marine debris and thick layer of shells, Ni’ihau is a beachcomber’s dream. White sand decorated with abnormally large colorful cowrie, cone, and puka shells, shiny huge opihi, pieces of sunrise shells, and parts of the coveted glass buoys.

The kahelelani shells were different than others I’ve found. On Kaua’i they are often a bright pink or deep red and usually imperfect. The ones on this part of Ni’ihau were a light pink with a red pattern, glossy, smooth, and nearly each one still in perfect condition. Numerous tide pools provided calm places and held piles of shells within their walls. Instead of crowds of sunbathers,there was an abundance of monk seals to walk around.

After hours of searching for the unknown, it was time to go back to reality. But not before snorkeling with three huge ulu’a and a seal circling me. As I headed back to the pavilion, I wished I could go on and on without the clock ticking. Comparing my pre-visit fantasy of the island with the reality, I decided that the trip satisfied my appetite. Before I came to Ni’ihau, I imagined an infinite array of kahelelani shells and even some sunrises, maybe a glass buoy. But out of respect for the island’s residents, the beaches with all of that is off-limits to visitors, a very respectable decision.

A message in a bottle...

I learned that visiting Ni’ihau is about going back in time to an undisturbed island with no big buildings, no freeways, and, what may the biggest relief, no cell phone reception. The thriving underwater world offers interaction with sea life that is getting increasingly harder to find on Hawai’i’s other islands. The shell line remains mostly undisturbed while Kaua’i’s and O’ahu’s disappear within hours of being washed up. Exploring Ni’ihau brings a hint of shoulda, coulda, woulda and thoughts of abandoning all modern day stressors.

Soon I was back on Oahu’s H-1, trying to maintain the sense of peace and solitude I felt just hours before.

The beach was empty, the sun was setting, and this couple was enjoying a romantic dinner lit only be candles, tiki torches,and the remnants of the day’s sunlight. The dinner was being prepared by Heavenly Creations, a unique small business that prepared beachside cooked dinners for couples and small groups. In hand with the current locovore and organic movement, they use only natural and organic ingredients, many of which are grown locally.

While many restaurants offer menus that don’t compliment a vegetarian, vegan, or allergy related diets, Heavenly Creations specialized in making meals that cater your personal health or dietary needs.

Beautiful Anini Beach

The menu can vary, and appetizers include dishes like lightly blackened shrimp skewers with a lilikoi (passion fruit) glaze, and local goat cheese topped with a tri-color array of olive or artichoke tapenade, sun dried tomatoes and pesto. A salad with papaya seed or lime ginger dressing is available.

Entrees include your choice of fresh local fish, wild Alaskan salmon, organic free-range Chicken, tofu or tempeh topped with macadamia nut sauce or tropical fruit salsa. They also offer side dishes, vegetable dishes, and deserts, all prepared while you enjoy the romantic atmosphere.

The wonderful thing about Anini Beach which is a popular spot for their dinners is that it’s generally wind free and the ocean is always calm there thanks to a far out reef.

For more information visit www.heavenlycreations.org.

Happy New Year!

For a more action packed event with entertainment other than fireworks, check out Aurora Foundation’s fundraiser out in Kilauea on the north side of the island. Live music included performances by Iris Downey and Friends as well as the Soul Good Music Family. Food by Fresh From the Garden, a silent auction, dancing, and an aerial artist will all be happening to welcome the new year. For more information contact Michelle Wamsley at 808/828-2192.

At Lihue’s historic Kilohana Plantation islanders and visitors will be gathering to ring in the new year with a beer garden, live local music, champagne and light pupus will take place. Guests must be 21 or older. For more information on the indoor event please call Yvonne or Narlyn at 808/245-5608.

Up behind Kapa`a lies Ho`opi`i Falls, two hidden falls along a somewhat mellow river that is perfect for a long stroll through the forest. Located on Kapahi Road, which can be seen on Google maps, the falls are nestled behind a residential area, adding to the need for quietness and respect of the area when parking to head to the falls.

Both waterfalls are rather small, but the wonderful thing about them is the entire walk, or low impact hike, that makes the experience into a trek along the Kapa`a Stream though the forest. You may see a local resident or two walking the dog along the trail, and just wave and say hi. During the initial descent down the trail look for passion fruit, or lilikoi on the ground. If you find one in good condition give it a try.

Once down on the stream, the tall tree canopy allows rays of sunlight through, making for a sparkly morning and afternoon to explore the forest and falls. Mosquitos can be heavy here, so bring spray or you may regret it. Follow the river down stream and the well worn path is hard to miss. This isn’t a great place for swimming, although some locals do brave it.

Ho`opi`i Falls

Well known Wailua Falls are well known for a good reason – they’re amazing! The drive up the road is gorgeous itself, with acres and acres of bright green grassy pastures on either side. Up at the falls there’s a rock wall separating visitors from the edge of a cliff high above the pool below the double falls. They falls are quite impressive, said to be about 150-feet high with thick cascading water falling into a nearly perfectly round pool far below.

Try a few different angles for photos. The hedge in front of the wall can hinder pictures a little bit, but moving around is a great help. Right above the overlook is where local artisans often sell hand made palm frond hats and other crafts.

Wailua Falls

Out on the dry west side, deep in the Waimea Canyon lies Waipo`o Falls. A surprise at the end of the Canyon Trail, which is a moderately strenuous two to three hour hike, the falls and pool below that is ideal for a refreshing swim is worth the effort.

After parking at the Pu`u Hinahina Lookout between the 13 and 14 mile marker in Koke`e State Park, you’ll be treated to amazing vistas along the trail. Look for goats enjoying the forest and don’t forget the camera for spectacular canyon views. The upper falls has a perfectly swimmable pool, and here you’ll be above the lower falls that cascade about 800-feet down.

Waipo`o Falls

Hanalei mountains and taro

As you slowly cruise down Kuhio Highway, the other signs of a local, ocean loving sun drenched culture become evident. The Hanalei Taro Co., serving up Hawaiian food with a modern twist, and the Hanalei River with stand-up paddlers lazily cruising down, and an array or surf lessons and board rentals and beach wear and surf shops lining the road. Yet they’re in quaint historic buildings that aren’t offensive to the natural beauty of the region.

Lazy Hanalei River

Before or after lunch you’ll feel your feet become alive while immersed in the fine white sand of crescent shaped Hanalei Bay. Surfers, children, and beachcombers will be wandering the peaceful sands of the bay, simply enjoying the serenity and peace of the seaside stretch.

Then it’s sunset. Maybe at the Bay, maybe on the lawn in front of the St. Regis Princeville Resort overlooking the entire bay and its majestic cliffs and waves. Today we haven’t discussed what’s beyond Hanalei, that’s a more thorough story for another day. But Hanalei is heavenly, magical, and majestic. Come to Hanalei to immerse yourself in the ocean and watch the waterfalls cascade down the green cliffs (the more rain there’s been, the more waterfalls there are), and enjoy. Just relax and enjoy.

Lawai shrines

Built around the start of the 20th century by some of the first Japanese immigrants to the island who dreamed of a prosperous life working on the island’s sugar plantations in nearby Koloa, the mini-shrines were a supplement to something many of them had left behind at home. Tradition says that back on Shikoku Island, anyone who makes the pilgrimage, which is a thousand year old tradition, will release 88 evil passions by visiting each of the 88 temples by foot.

The Hall of Commpassion

It was in the beginning of the 1990s when Muramoto first visited the property. She saw everything overgrown – weeds hugged the shrines tightly, all the foliage blocked nearly all hope of views of them, and the property was in complete disarray. Because she could feel the importance of the spirituality on the land, Muramoto eventually quit working as a schoolteacher and started the non-profit Lawai International Center.

Volunteers have happily helped with restoration, and many of the shrines have small tokens of appreciation and spiritual importance such as crystals, sand, beads, and dirt that has traveled world wide. For a meaningful visit while on Kaua`i no matter what your faith may be, stop by Lawai International Center at 3381 Wawae Rd. 808/639-4300. Tours are available at 10 a.m. and 12 and 2 p.m. on the second and last Sunday of every month.

So here’s a list of some great spots on Kaua`i to eat affordable food, which may just turn out to me the best meal you will have on the Garden Island. I’ve listed one great place for each side of the island, and a few places for a tasty treat.

In Waimea on the west side of Kaua`i, Island Tacos offers huge portions of Mexican food with a Pacific twist. The road side stand is reminiscent of a true Mexico taco stand, but it serves out unique heaping portions. And yes, they’re affordable. I’d like to mention again that the portions are large. I can eat a lot of food, but whenever I try to order two tofu tacos here, I never finish the second one. A single taco will fill most people’s belly’s, and at only about five to six dollars depending on whether you get tofu, beans, shrimp, pork, mahi or ahi. But it’s not just the tacos. The burritos, quesadillas, and taco salads all come in huge portions. For those traveling with children, there’s also a keiki (kids) menu. You can enjoy the meal right there at their road side outdoor tables or take it on the road but I’ll warn you – because of the size that usually leads to a mess. Oh yeah, they make their own tortillas. Located at 9643 Kaumuali`i Hwy.

A local road side taco stand

On the south side in Koloa, Sueoka Store hands down offers some of the most affordable food in the area. There aren’t any frills here, it’s very “local style” but it’s affordable, down to earth, and can fulfill most of your basic needs, from beer to food to snacks and even Asian cook wear. On the refrigerated shelves in the front you’ll find packaged and cut fruit, sort of like in New York City delis, along with meat sandwiches, fried chicken, curries, edamame, and other local and Asian foods. It’s perfect to eat the food while browsing historic Koloa town, or to put it in the back pack for a south side hike or beach day.

Suekoa's in historic koloa

Over on the east side in Kapa`a, locally owned and operated Killah Steaks is known for serving up great steaks at amazingly low prices. The two friends turned business owners offer two steak options – a Hawaiian salt and pepper steak or a mushroom onion gravy steak. Both come with rice and the closest thing to a vegetable option is the side salad which is pretty much a few leaves of lettuce. The important thing is that everyone seems to love the steaks and they’re quite affordable – only $6.50! Don’t expect anything fancy here, it’s a road side trailer on the ocean side of Kuhio Highway, and when the sell out early they leave and go surf. Stop in for a super affordable and ono (delicious) meal! Located at 4788 Kuhio Hwy.

It's a steak wagon!

Out on the North Shore past Hanalei, Red Hot Mama’s will surely get you the most bang for your buck. A true hole in the wall in Wainiha towards the very end of the road, Red Hot Mama’s serves up pretty darn big burritos for seven to nine dollars. They come with fresh fish caught daily by locals, or tofu or avocado. And I mean it when I say they’re big! A burrito from Mama’s will no doubt fill you up so they make a great pre-beach option before disappearing at the end of the road for the day. They’re isn’t much else out here, but Mama’s food is awesome. Located at 5-6607 Kuhio Hwy., 808/826-7266

Red Hot Mama's, a true hole in the wall

A peace of Kaua`i

The earrings run from about $12 to $20 and she offers random sales often. It’s no secret that there’s an abundance of shell jewelry on Kaua`i, but what is locally made is often sold at a high price, and the affordable stuff is often imported from China, the Philippines, and Indonesia. But POK jewelry is sourced and made right on Kaua`i, and on small islands with a huge import rate for food and goods, shopping local is a very important part of achieving a sustainable future.

Puka shells, opihis, and glass beads

What’s really interesting about it is that the designer uses her creativity as an outlet from her days spent working as a sexual assault counselor, and finds relief and fun in shell collecting and creating jewelry.

A raindbow of P.O.K.

While on Kaua`i or still at home, feel free to make an order at www.peaceofkauai.com or check out Colleen’s Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/pages/Peace-of-Kauai-Shells/211136508915200?ref=ts

Pink beach glass, a rare find

You can order, meet up with her to pick up a design, or now find them at Kapa`a’s Collectible Designs.

A day at the office

Not only are they beautiful and unique, and affordable, but they truly allow you to take home a piece of Kaua`i. And once you go, you’re always going to want a piece of Hawaii’s most peaceful island with you.

Elegant and beachy

Romantic riverside walk to Ho`opi`i Falls

For a session of romantic pampering, drip by Pure Kaua’i at 4270 Kilauea Road or call 808-828-6570 and www.purekauai.com . It’s not the basic day at the spa, and the luxury spa creates Hawaiian getaways as well as honeymoon vacations and romantic retreats. Luxurious accommodations, healthy meals prepared by a private chef, spa activities and services, and various sports such as yoga and surfing are all offered here. Unique services such as astrological consultations, life and relationship coaching are offered in addition to traditional services like massage, facials, manicures and pedicures.

For a lovely place to watch the sunset on the North Shore, the lawn in front of the St. Regis, where the last remnants of a heiau’s rock walls can be seen is a perfect end to a beautiful north shore day. On any clear day, drop by the lawn to take in the array of colors as the sunsets over Hanalei Bay and the green mountains backing the coast. If it’s the winter months surfers may be seen dropping in on mountainous waves at the same time.

A truly romantic experience is beachside dining with Heavenly Creations reachable at 808-651-8933 or www.heavenlycreations.org who caters to couples or small groups looking for unique and romantic meals on the beach. They service uses only natural and organic ingredients, and they specialize in catering to unique food requests such as allergies, vegetarians (even if it’s only one diner) and other things. The menu is an array of exotic and unique foods such as shrimp skewers with lilikoi glaze, salads with edible flowers, and entrees with the option of fish, free-range chicken, tofu or tempeh. The desserts are decadent and and other fun things like roast marshmallows, hula, and a romantic treasure hunt are available. I discovered this service as I stumbled upon it one night at Anini Beach as a couple enjoyed dinner on the sand with a cute little table and tiki torches.

One of Ho`opi`i Falls

Ho`opi`i Falls is a personal favorite. This hike brings explorers to two falls on the Kapa’a Stream, accessed by a lovely walk along it. As you head down the trail look for lilikois (passion fruits) on the ground that fall from very high up on the jungle canopy. You’ll probably run into the occasional resident going for a jog or walking their dog. Smile and say hello. Along the trail are thimbleberry bushes that have bright red berries similar to raspberries. Give one a try. When you come down to the river, hang a right slightly up from the river and continue on the well worn and narrow trail. You’ll see multiple off shoot trails going down to the river. They’re a bit steep, and the red dirt can be slippery. When you can here the falls loudly, this is most likely the right side trail down to the top of the falls. Here you can sit, spend some time, eat, just hang out near the falls and along the river. To get to the bottom of the falls you’d have to continue down stream then head back up in the water. When you’re done, head back up the side trail and continue on. Eventually you’ll have to go down to the river and walk along the edge. Stay near the water’s edge to stay off of private land. Right before the second waterfall the trail goes over the river to the top of the falls and this is the end my friend. Don’t forget your camera on this hike, and make sure you have enough time to leisurely explore and take your time. If you want to really enjoy it bring mosquito repellent. I need to heed my own advice, I always forget it and get eaten alive.
To get here, turn onto Kawaihau Road from Kuhio Highway. Head inland for about 12 minutes and then take a right onto Kapahi Road. Look for the yellow painted metal post on your left at the trailhead. Right past here is a dirt pull off spot that fits about three cars. Please go very slow on the road, this is a very local and mellow neighborhood.