Intense cobalt blue saturates the walls of Frida Kahlo’s house in Mexico City’s Coyoacan neighborhood. She wrote in her diary that the color represented electricity, purity, and love, and fans of the artist will recognize this same deep azure tone from her idiosyncratic oil paintings. This particular color so entranced Frida that she named the home where she was born, lived, and died “La Casa Azul” – The Blue House in Spanish. She believed that cobalt blue offered protection from evil spirits.

In this photo of the Calle Londres façade of Casa Azul, one of Frida’s dark, penetrating eyes stares out from a black and white poster of the artist. I framed the picture to catch both her intense gaze and the play of the late afternoon sun on the adjacent blue wall.

Link to NileGuide Casa Azul page

It’s unusual for temporary structures built for a world’s fair to survive past the day the turnstiles stop admitting eager visitors. Along with San Francisco’s Palace of Fine Arts and Seattle’s Pacific Science Center, the Moorish Kiosk in Mexico City’s Santa Maria de la Ribera neighborhood is a particularly fine example of world’s fair architecture.

Built for exhibition in New Orleans as Mexico’s pavilion at the World’s Industrial and Cotton Centennial Exposition of 1884 and the North, Central and South American Exposition in 1885, the octagon-shaped building was reconstructed in 1902 in St. Louis for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition. Later, it stood in the Mexico City’s Alameda Central before being moved to Santa Maria de la Ribera in 1910.

Stylistically, the Kiosko Morisco belongs to the Neo-Moorish or Moorish Revival School, which became popular during the nineteenth century, when fascination with romantic or exotic locales influenced the design arts. The kiosk is built entirely of colorfully painted cast iron and features horseshoe arches and delicate arabesque motifs. I love the kiosk’s whimsical interplay of color, shape, and light.

Link to NileGuide’s Kiosko Morisco page

I chanced upon this pair of novilleros, or apprentice bullfighters, one afternoon while walking in Viveros de Coyoacan, Mexico City’s combination plant nursery and public park. The incongruous sight of a young man wielding the magenta and gold capote while wearing gym clothes caught my eye. That alone would have been fascinating – that his opponent was a guy pushing a wheeled set of bullhorns made this moment one of my most unusual and treasured times in the Federal District.

It takes many years for a novillero to progress from student to torrero, the fabled men (and now women, too) who wear the glittering suit of lights and compete in stadiums like Mexico City’s 48,000-seat Plaza Mexico. The word novillero is derived from the term for young bulls – novillo. Even these developing animals can be dangerous, and the apprentices must spend hours practicing their moves – hence, the invention of the wheeled bullhorn.

In the photo, the novillero practices a paso de redondo, in which the bull is guided in a circular path around the fighter. The novillero’s stance hasn’t yet acquired the taut grace found in the sport’s finest practictioners. But, with dedication like this I can only imagine that the proud, arrogant matador de toros in him will soon emerge.

Life and death – the twin aspects of a universe in equilibrium – have been prominent features of Mexican life and art since ancient times. This brightly painted depiction of a matador, bull, and audience – all skeletons – at the National Museum of Popular Art in Mexico City caught my eye on a recent visit.

Skeleton art – known as Calaveras, or skulls – was popularized in the 19th century by artist José Guadalupe Posada from Aguascalientes. The tradition continues today and by late October the skeletons seem to outnumber the living. That’s when the living and the dead spend a few days together during the Day of the Dead celebrations; family altars featuring sugar skulls, pierced paper skeletons, and figurines abound. In Mexico’s contemporary hybrid Indigenous/Catholic view of the afterlife, if you went to a bullfight while you were alive you don’t stop going just because you’re dead. It’s seeing the skeletons going about their business – marrying, studying, partying, bullfighting – that gives Calavera part of its whimsical quality.

The beautifully renovated National Museum of Popular Art in Mexico City is located a few blocks south of the Alameda in the Centro Historico.

Photo Courtesy of Remede Spa at St. Regis Hotel

While some of the finest day spas are located within luxury hotels, many others are freestanding in neighborhoods like Condesa and Polanco. This list of the best day spas contains some of both types so that you can pick the one that suits your mood and preferences.

1. Remede Spa at St. Regis Hotel
2. Aurora Spa at Hotel Las Alcobas
3. Spa Marquis at Marquis Reforma Hotel
4. Health Club at Four Seasons Hotel
5. aWay Spa at W Hotel
6. Cebeth at Celeste House
7. Spa at Hotel Habita
8. Spa Saasil
9. Condesa Clinica de Salud y Belleza
10. Athletic Club at Hotel Nikko

The Number One Day Spa in Mexico City is the Remède Spa at St. Regis Hotel. Situated in a sleek tower designed by architect Cesar Pelli with cool interiors by Yabu Pushelberg, Remède Spa whispers urban elegance. The Lushly Flower Foot Ceremony is a sybaritic delight.

Following closely behind is the Number Two choice, The Aurora Spa at Hotel Las Alcobas. It is open only to guests at this luxury boutique hotel in Polanco and that’s reason enough to book a stay. The Tepezcohuite Body Drench is Aurora Spa’s signature therapy. Called the “skin” tree by generations of Maya healers, tepezcohuite yields a bark known for its antimicrobial properties.

Spa Marquis at the Marquis Reforma Hotel is Number Three. It is Mexico City’s largest day spa, with 16,000 square feet of space dedicated to restoring tranquility to over-stimulated visitors to the capital. A glass atrium covers the indoor swimming pool, which looks out onto the Paseo de la Reforma. The spa utilizes Eastern and Western traditions to create unique spa treatments, which range from massage to facials and body wraps to aromatherapy and hydrotherapy.

Mexico City can be a stressful place to visit, with traffic, noise, and air pollution each taking its toll on the body and spirit. Take time during your visit and spend an afternoon at one of the Top Ten Day Spas.

Mexico’s indigenous Xoloitzcuintle dog and statue at the Dolores Olmedo Museum (Photo By Alejandro Linares Garcia - http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:XoloXoloOlmedo.JPG)

Leading the pack, so to speak, is the W Hotel, located next to Chapultepec Park, where canines of all breeds run and play in 1,695 acres of lawns and paths. The W must be owned by animal lovers (or just savvy marketers): the hotel’s “P.A.W. – PETS ARE WELCOME™” believes that, “…the furry friend you love should travel in luxury with you.” Visiting dogs receive a “Welcome to Mexico City” gift at check-in containing a toy, treat, W Hotels pet tag, and clean-up bags.

Once in their guest rooms, visiting Bowsers will find a Custom W pet bed, food and water bowl with floor mat, a “pet-in-room” door sign, and a special treat when the maid arrives for nightly turndown service. The hotel also offers dog walking and feeding, outside bathing and grooming service, and connections to local veterinarians. W Hotel charges an additional $25 plus a non-refundable $100 cleaning fee and allows only one pet (less than 40 lbs).

After Fido and Pepe have swum together in the pool at Parque Mexico, you can take drop them off at Urban Dog in Condesa, a doggie hotel, kennel, groomer, and boutique.

Overpopulation is not just a human problem in Mexico and the sight of the many stray dogs that roam unattended and unloved often saddens animal lovers. If you want to help, contact Compassion Without Borders, which offers rescue efforts and spay and neuter campaigns.

Mexican Independence Day 2010 (By Alejandro Linares Garcia - Courtesy http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Grito2010Calderon07.JPG)

At around 11:00 pm on the 15th, President Calderon will appear on the balcony of the National Palace, which overlooks Plaza de la Constitución, or El Zócalo as its more commonly known. Before a crowd of thousands the president reenacts the stirring Grito de Dolores (“Cry of Dolores”), the historic moment in 1810 when Miguel Hidalgo, a Roman Catholic priest, called for revolt against Spain, shouting, “Long live our Lady of Guadalupe! Death to bad government!”

During this ceremony, which is repeated by mayors and governors all over the country, the president rings a bell, calls out the names of Mexico’s heroes, and waves an enormous red, white, and green Mexican flag. And, revelers answer him with hearty cheers of “Viva Mexico! Viva Mexico! Viva Mexico!”

In the small spa town of Ixtapan de la Sal located about two hours southwest of Mexico City, a unique celebration takes place on September 16: a reenactment of a War of Independence battle, complete with costumed Spaniards, Mexican rebels, and indigenous warriors. Ixtapan’s celebrants pelt each other with vegetables – watch out for flying onions, avocados, and sweet potatoes!

Xin Xin, the panda at Chapultepec Park Zoo

Dr. Saul is one lucky guy: he’s the chief of the reproductory lab who works with the Zoo’s world-famous pandas. They are as cute as can be – almost as cute as the little kids on this video who are visiting the zoo and talking about the black and white animals.

Nowadays, three giant pandas live in Chapultepec Zoo: Xiu Hua, Shuan Shuan & Xin Xin. They were all born at the zoo, which has the world’s most successful panda-breeding program outside of China. The first pair to arrive – Ying Ying and Pe Pe – arrived in 1975 and is the parents or grandparents of today’s cubs (their names mean “Treasure” and “Welcome,” respectively). And today’s three are real Mexicans: other than a panda in Berlin, the Chapultepec trio are the only pandas in the world who belong to the country they live in (as opposed to being loaned by the Chinese government).

Chapultepec Park, the great, green forest in the center of Mexico City, is no stranger to animal enclosures. Back in the 1500’s when the park was off-limits to any Mexica other than Aztec Emperor Moctezuma and his court, hundreds of zookeepers cared for the ruler’s menagerie, which is said to have included thousands of mammals, birds, and reptiles.

The current zoo, located just off Paseo de la Reforma near the Auditorio and Chapultepec Metro stations, was founded in 1923 and extensively renovated in the 1990s. Visitors praise the naturalistic habitats, gigantic aviary, herpetarium, and butterfly enclosure. The zoo is a busy place – on both sides of the walls that separate visitor from resident; more than 5 million guests pass through annually to see the zoo’s 2,000 animals, representing 250 different species. Director Adriana Fernández Ortega, a biologist, oversees the animal park and is one of the few women in the world directing a major zoo.

Best of all, admission to Parque Zoologico de Chapultepec is free! On weekends, the place is packed with the many families who come to enjoy Chapultepec’s many attractions, including the botanical garden, hilltop castle, and the Museum of Anthropology across Paseo de la Reforma from the zoo.

Always wanted to be a zookeeper? Read what the American Association of Zookeepers has to say and maybe we will be honoring you during next year’s National Zookeeper Week.

Map of Chapultepec Park Zoo

As fascinating a place as Mexico City is, sometimes a guy just has to get out of town for the weekend.

Of the Best Road Trips from Mexico City, one of my favorites is to head south to Cuernavaca and Taxco. While you could make this excursion in one day, for maximum Road Trip Satisfaction, turn this drive into a two-night, three-day mini-vacation and you will return to El D.F. rested and relaxed.

Day One: Drive from Mexico City to Cuernavaca on Highway 95 (85 km, about 2 hrs, 86 pesos in tolls). Nicknamed The City of Eternal Spring, Cuernavaca has long attracted Mexico City’s moneyed classes as a weekend destination where the winters are warmer and the summers are cooler than in the capital. Long before the Spanish arrived, the Tlahuica settled what is now the largest city in Morelos state – Cuernavaca. Among the note-worthy attractions here are the Robert Brady House Museum, the Cortez Palace, and the Borda Gardens. Spend the night at the historic Hacienda de Cortes, the conquistador’s former sugar plantation. Eat at Cuernavaca’s most famous restaurant, Las Mananitas, whose garden, pictured above, setting is simply the prettiest spot in the city.

Day Two: Sleep in – but not too late – leave Cuernavaca’s historic center, and continue south on Highway 95 to Taxco in Guerrero state (84 km, 1-2 hours, 90 pesos in tolls). Taxco is another one of Mexico’s “Pueblos Mágicos” (Magical Towns) and it certainly deserves the distinction. Situated high in the mountains at over 5,800 feet, the streets of Taxco twist up and down steep grades, providing picture-perfect photo opportunities no matter where you stand. The city – which now numbers about 50,000 inhabitants – was the location of some of New Spain’s most productive silver mines. Taxco remains a center for jewelry production.

The riches that once were Taxco’s can be savored nowhere more impressively than in Santa Prisca Church, which faces the town’s main square. The Baroque, pink stone building was completed in 1758 and paid for entirely by José de la Borda, said to have committed to the construction out of gratitude for the fortune he made in the silver mines. The interior sparkles with gilt and, of course, silver trimmings and is especially captivating during the city’s Holy Week processions. Spend the night in the Hotel Agua Escondida and dine at Café Sasha.

Day Three: Before you leave Taxco, visit some of its other attractions, like the Mercado Municpal and the Vice-Regal Museum, where a collection of Spanish Colonial religious and secular art provide vivid insight into the period. Make a final stop on the way out of town at the Silver Museum or one of the hundreds of shops marked “plateria,” which means silver shop, and buy a necklace and pendant – maybe one of Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico’s patroness.

Mexico City’s Best Road Trip – Cuernavaca and Taxco ends with an easy drive back to the capital on Highway 95 (185 km, 3-4 hours, 176 pesos in tolls). If the Federal District’s traffic starts to melt away your Road Trip Satisfaction, just touch the silver Guadalupe hanging from your neck and maybe Taxco’s magic will clear the streets.

Taxco - Santa Prisca Church (Photo courtesy of Creative Commons - http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benutzer:Luidger)

Huamantlada - Photo by Sanchez Toledano (Creative Commons)

Pamplona might get the lion’s share of publicity and notoriety for its annual Running of the Bulls but Huamantla, located in Mexico‘s Tlaxcala state, hosts its own equally exciting version: the Huamantlada.

North American thrill-seekers don’t need to travel to all the way to Spain to feel the rush of staring down an angry, snarling bull. Huamantla and its insanely dangerous festival is only a mere 100 miles east of Mexico City! The town itself is worth the trip: it’s one of Mexico’s Pueblos Magicos, known for its charm, architecture, and preservation of cultural traditions.

The Huamantlada (pronounced, wha mant lah dah) differs from the Pamplonada in one key way: here, individual streets are blocked off and bulls are released in each one to roam at will rather than running down one long route. Participating in the Huamantlada is not for the faint of heart. No, it’s a dangerous experience only recommended for anyone who is willing to risk life and limb. The pay-off? Nothing but bragging rights to having outrun 1,000 pounds of beefy muscle. Not to mention avoiding being gored by thrusting horns — sharp ones!

While most visitors prefer to observe the running of the bulls from a safe distance, you don’t have to. If you dare, join the crowd of young men (and some women, too) pressing up against the plywood fence that barely separates the bulls from the onlookers. Get your courage up, climb over, and take your chances.

The gate of the narrow, wooden cattle chute slides open and the bull emerges, wild-eyed and hopping mad. The crowd roars “Toro! Toro!” and quickly, the first challengers jump into the line of fire. Some wannabe toreadors wave squares of red cloth; others flap T-shirts or anything that might grab the bull’s attention. He charges and the mob scatters. Sometimes the bull wins easily and bodies somersault over the twisting horns, flipped about like rag dolls.

As you might imagine, many people who venture into the bulls’ path are drunk – they need that extra shot of tequila to put themselves into harm’s way.

Watch this video of the 2010 Huamantlada for a true picture of the danger that awaits the daredevils who have the cojones to provoke the wrath of Tlaxcala’s fiercest bulls. Injuries are common and sometimes serious. (WARNING: This video is graphic and definitely not for the squeamish.)

The event begins sharply at 12:00 noon on Saturday, August 20^th, and lasts about one hour. But, you should arrive in the center of town no later than 10:00am to secure a prime seat.

Homeowners set up bleachers in front of their houses and charge for spectator seating (usually whatever experience tells them the market will bear). Prices range from 30-500 pesos (USD $3-50), with those at the higher end providing a better view, awnings, and more comfortable seating. As one local resident commented, “the higher the price, the safer you are.”

Getting There: From Mexico City TAPO bus terminal – ATAH bus line, 2-3 hours (depending on traffic), hourly departures, 140 pesos each way. Metro Line One, San Lazaro station

Accommodations: Hotel Centenario

Food: Restaurante Los Balcones

Tourist Information: Huamantla