the winter La Sals seen from near Moab

photo: mland329/Flickr

Start out with breakfast in town, then head north on 191. Turn right (east) on Scenic Byway 128, and start enjoying the views. This road winds beside the Colorado River, which meanders in a gentle, almost lazy flow here. When you reach Castle Valley Road, turn right (south). Ogle the red sandstone formations with fun names like Priest and Nuns.

Castle Valley

photo: Alaskan Dude/Flickr

Keep an eye out for La Sal Mountain Loop Road; make a right and climb into the grand mountains right before you. The vegetation change as you climb in elevation is dramatic. Desert scrub morphs into large forest trees. Spring wildflowers, fall aspen color, green summer hillsides, white winter wonderland for snowshoeing or cross-country skiing–each season offers something wonderful for the senses. And those views? Yeah…stop at all the turnouts. Very worth it to see for miles.

fall color

photo: °Florian/Flickr

If you’d like to picnic, hang out by a lake, or even camp for the night, Warner Lake Campground is your spot. This is definitely a summertime activity. Check with them for campground closures and road access changes.

As you wind your way down the La Sals, the road eventually rejoins 191, which you can take back north to return to Moab.

mountain bike trails are plentiful in the La Sals

photo: UltraRob/Flickr

Be sure to check the road conditions depending on the time of year. The drive is open in the winter, but the road might be impassable due to any number of reasons. Check with the Manti-La Sal National Forest District at (435) 259-7155.

Utah's state flower, the Sego Lily

 photo: Matt Lavin/Flickr

Ancient rock art panels will be some of the first things you see, right from the road. Anasazi (Ancestral Puebloan), Barrier Canyon style, and Ute artwork all grace the canyon walls here and there. Take your time to admire these enduring depictions of life then; they are beautiful, clearly different in style, and should send your imagination spinning. Many of the humanlike Barrier Canyon images seem spectral or even otherworldly, with their oversized eyes.

Barrier Canyon style petroglyphs in Sego Canyon

 photo: Alaskan Dude/Flickr

The ghost town part of Sego Canyon consists of the remains of an old coal mining camp. Rickety wood structures, tumbled-down stone walls, and half-standing old railroad bridges lie scattered about. It’s fascinating to wander through and wonder about what it was like to be there in the town’s heyday at the turn of the 20th century.

coal mine carts

image: es.photopedia.com/Google Images

How to get from Moab to Sego Canyon: Head north on the 191 out of Moab. When you hit I-70, go east. Take Exit 185 north through the itty-bitty town of Thompson. Continue about three miles to Sego Canyon Road and voila, you are there. You will see of the rock art panels right from the road. The Sego Canyon ghost town is about a mile and a half up the road. A parking area and outhouse are available at the first large rock art panel (on your left).

Note: the Sego Canyon area, including the old mining structures and many of the rock art panels, is mostly located on private property. While the property owners graciously allow public access, please remember to treat the area with respect.

Goblin Valley hoodoos

 photo: Alaskan Dude/Flickr

The first thing a visitor to Goblin Valley might wonder is if you’re still on this planet. The hoodoos seem completely unearthly and even a little spooky. Hollywood alien movies have been filmed here, so you might even think you’re stomping around some other planet. Three short established trails in the park allow you to look around, although you can also freely wander off trail. One cool thing the park lets people do is clamber around on the hoodoos. (Watch the great official Goblin Valley video for examples of how fun this can be!) Playing hide and seek among the hoodoos under a full moon is an especially memorable activity.

Two well-known, popular slot canyons also grace the vicinity: the Bell Canyon and Little Wild Horse Canyon loop.  With the trailhead for these fairly easy hikes located just outside Goblin Valley itself, the loop makes for an exciting day’s adventure. You don’t need to be a canyoneering expert, as these are considered good for beginners and are not technical (no ropes needed).

Little Wildhorse Canyon

photo: gregw66/Flickr

Overnight camping in the park is permitted. Besides 24 campsites with cement pads, two new yurts can be reserved for large groups. Pets are allowed, hot showers are yours for the taking, and the lack of electricity means your evening treat is the star-studded night sky.

To get to Goblin Valley, head north out of Moab on US 191 until you read I-70. From there drive west to the junction with Highway 24. Turn south on 24 and go about 31 miles to the signed west turn that will take you into Goblin Valley State Park.

hiking through Goblin Valley

photo: jphilipg/Flickr

But just within a single day you can also drive a bit, do something pretty cool, and return in time to relax over dinner in one of Moab’s restaurants. One really interesting, fun, and sneakily educational place for a visit is Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum, just 75 miles south of Moab in the sleepy town of Blanding.

Edge of the Cedars holds the best collection of ancient Fremont Indian pottery from the local region. Fremont Indians farmed the area centuries ago. Their disappeared culture’s remnants, still scattered across the greater landscape, include pueblos (villages), pottery, arrowheads, burials, pictographs and petroglyphs (rock art), and small stone structures known as granaries built on seemingly inaccessible cliffs. Edge of the Cedars is built on one such ancient living site, the remains of which are just out back.

ancient ruins behind Edge of the Cedars

photo: zaui/Flickr

Included is a 1,000-year-old kiva, or ceremonial site, with a reconstructed wooden ladder for modern visitors to descend and check out this reverent ancient space.

kiva ladder

photo: teofilo/Flickr

For kids, a Junior Archeologist Program is available. Earn those badges!

Junior Archeologists

photo: zaui/Flickr

For those who are a little more adventurous, the canyons and trails of the Grand Gulch Primitive Area just west of the museum beckon. Hours, days, and even weeks of backcountry exploration are possible here. The name of the museum, Edge of the Cedars, comes from the fact that it is just about at the edge of these canyons, which are dotted with Utah juniper trees, called “cedars” by recent locals.

In 2011, the museum was targeted for possible future closure due to state funding issues. Although this popular, well-supported museum will likely survive as as a private entity if necessary, visiting Edge of the Cedars sooner rather than later might be a prudent choice.

At just $5 per adult or $3 per kid (the under-fives get in for free), this incredibly rich museum is a serious bargain. Open year-round except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day, Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm.

Multiple river rafting companies call Moab their headquarters due to its access to several great rivers–the Colorado, the Green, and the San Juan–as well as its size. Since Moab’s a bigger town, you can enjoy the area amenities, like its restaurants, hotels, and other things to do, before launching an unforgettable river rafting adventure.

photo: david.dames/Flickr

What to consider

Whitewater rafting encompasses trips from extreme to serene. Most outfitters tailor trips to a variety of needs, including client age, adrenaline level (or, how nervous are you), and time of year. Often you can choose theme trips, such as all women, kids’ groups, naturalist outings, yoga inclusive, multi-adventure, etc. Many rafting companies offer day trips if you just want to get your feet wet, so to speak. Longer trips can be upwards of a week in length. As usual, holiday weekends will be packed, so booking a trip well in advance should give you a better shot at nabbing those priority spaces during high travel times.

Who should go

Just about anyone can go on a Moab whitewater rafting trip, if you’re fit enough. For some river trips, you’ll need to hike to or from the put-in (raft launching area). On an overnight, you’ll be camping. If you’re on an oar boat trip, you will be expected to help row the boat. And in general, you need to be able to lug your gear short distances, get in and out of the boats, and have quick enough reflexes to quickly respond to guide orders when you’re running those fast, fun rapids. Most rafting companies have suggestions for fitness level and preparation as well as age ranges; older children are usually requested for the big water trips. Check with your chosen company to be sure you fit their every client category.

photo: jking89/Flickr

When to go

If you want big, fast water, book a springtime trip when rivers are full of snowmelt and running high. For warm days and nights, try July and August. For the calmest water, head out in the fall, when changing leaves might also grace the riverbank trees.

A sampling of Moab rafting companies to check out:

Adrift Adventures

Holiday River Expeditions

Red River Adventures

Sheri Griffith River Expeditions

Tag-A-Long River and Wilderness Expeditions

Western River Expeditions

World Wide River Expeditions

Easy

Monitor/Merrimac Bike Trail

This sweet six-mile ride scoops you up and down about 500 feet in elevation. You’ll cruise singletrack and classic Moab slickrock. Take in the views, which is easy on this beginner-oriented trail since you don’t have to be solely focused on keeping your bike–and you–upright.

family fun on the trails

photo: einarfour/Flickr

Medium

Gemini Bridges

Although this one is technically easy enough for most beginning riders, it can be long depending on your chosen route–up to 44 miles. That much pedaling can tire you out in a snap. It is possible to do this as a shorter 13.5 mile trip, though you’ll need to get a car shuttle. The imposing Gemini Bridges themselves are worth the trip.

riding across one of the Gemini Bridges--notice the drop offs

photo: dhReno/Flickr

Hard

Porcupine Rim

Even the name sounds intimidating. Porcupines are spiky and defensive. This very spiky trail needs to be ridden with every ounce of defensive skill the advanced rider possesses! Covering 15.5 miles if you have a vehicle shuttle, this classic Moab mountain bike trail is for those who are very technically savvy and experienced.

advanced riders only

photo: Tim Brink/Flickr

Hiking is perhaps the most common outdoor activity around Moab. For good reason, too: there are a bunch of excellent trails to choose from, right around town as well as in nearby Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park.

Moab

Short

Corona Arch. With its striking flow up to the sky then back down to rock, this huge arch is a must-see. The hike in clocks a mere 1.5 miles (making it three miles roundtrip), and it’s easy enough for the average hiker.

Family

Hunters Canyon. Simple and sweet, you can traipse along the green canyon bottom (green depending on water flow that year), check out cool petroglyphs on the way, and keep an eye out for the animals that live here.

Adventurous

Behind the Rocks. This huge area south of Moab boasts almost as many natural arches as Arches National Park. Mountain biking, hiking trails, and canyoneering are all options in this remote area. Be prepared with all the correct gear and plenty of water, and make sure you have a good trail map.

endless panorama of Behind the Rocks

photo: s_mestdagh/Flickr

Arches National Park

Short

Landscape Arch. For a two-mile hike, you’ll be rewarded with a view of one of the world’s most graceful and mind-boggling arches. Mind-boggling as in, How come that long, skinny thing hasn’t fallen down yet?

Family

Sand Dune Arch. Easy to get to, easy to admire, and easy to play around. The sand by the bottom of the arch and the rock fins around it is as smooth as on any beach; in fact, some families bring sand toys for the kids to play with. There’s plenty here to entertain most kids for quite some time.

Adventurous

Klondike Bluffs. Located somewhere back of beyond, this is for the intrepid and self-sufficient adventurer. Even though these mysterious, gorgeous formations were the original inspiration for Arches to become a protected national park, very few people see them today due to their far-away location down a dirt road.

Klondike Bluffs

photo: msn678/Flickr

Canyonlands National Park

Short

Mesa Arch. Sunrise is one of the best times to be at this arch, which frames the spectacular morning hello of the sun. Be prepared to jostle with other eager photographers for a once-in-a-lifetime shot of perfect natural beauty.

Family

Whale Rock Trail. Yup, it kind of looks like a beached sandstone whale out in the middle of the desert. The best part is that you can climb up the whale’s “tail” and wander across the bulk of its “body.” The whole hike is easy and provides fun as you let your imagination and feet roam.

Adventurous

Horseshoe Canyon. Found out in the remote Maze district of Canyonlands, this hike features some of the most breathtaking examples of ancient rock art in the Southwest, if not the entire country. You can camp at the trailhead, take a guided ranger tour, or simply wander through the canyon yourself, gazing at the huge pictograph panels left by long-gone, tremendously talented artists.

Horseshoe Canyon's Great Gallery of rock art

photo: snowpeak/Flickr

Choose your activity, then find someone who specializes in it

Some guiding companies do it all. But chances are, you’ll have a much better time if you pick someone who really knows what they’re doing because that’s just about all they do. If a place seems to be a jack of all trades, check out the guides for specific expertise before signing on.

photo: MoabAdventurer/Flickr

Background check

Scan the fine print. Ask for customer referrals. Seek out info online about the company with whom you’re about to head into the wild blue yonder. Remember to keep a balanced view if you run across superlative rants or raves. Reviews can be doctored, bought, or made in the heat of a moment. Articles from legitimate sources may hold more credibility.

Who are you?

Be sure the tour company is aware of the personalities, physicalities, and medical needs of everyone in your party. Most guiding companies can accommodate diverse groups of people, but it’s always good to be sure they’re crystal clear on every detail.

Honest is as honest does

Your guide will definitely not appreciate it if you’re not totally honest about your fitness level or fear factor. If you want to really enjoy your Moab adventure, you must be very upfront about everything. The tour company wants to keep you safe when they take you into a wilderness far from quick help in the event of an emergency.

photo: longhorndave/Flickr

Wicked Brew

This isn’t even a full stop–just roll up in your car, place your order with the friendly barista hanging out in the unassuming little coffee shack, and then roll on out of there, totally excellent coffee in hand. Yup, Wicked Brew is a drive-thru, which is a genius idea in a town so focused on outdoor activity. Locals love it here, and it’s easy to find on the town’s main drag. 132 North Main Street, (435) 259-0021

Love Muffin Cafe

True to its cute name, the Love Muffin Cafe is loved by locals and visitors alike. Why? Great service, great product, great experience. The coffee is excellent, and it’s always fun to see what foam design your barista might come up with. If you really want to pamper yourself, order a tiramisu latte. Oh, the yumminess. 139 North Main, (435) 259-6833

photo: stepheye/Flickr

Wake and Bake Cafe

For the full on sit-down experience, head for the Wake and Bake. Serving not only coffee but breakfast delights and lunchtime goodies, this cafe offers a nice slice of local life mingled with the tourist crowd. Snugged up against Eddie McStiff’s, they’re also easy to find.  57 South Main, (435) 259-2420

Eklecticafe

Another sit-down cafe, Eklecticafe is cute, has original menu items such as the Wake Up Wakame (steamed seaweed, which is very delicious and powerful fuel for your day), and they serve organic, fair trade, shade-grown coffee roasted in Utah. Outside seating is available for those warm mornings. 352 North Main, (435) 259-6896

Red Rock Bakery

This makes the “best cafe” list for its local ambiance and filling portions of good food they serve up alongside their coffee. The atmosphere is relaxed and casual, and patrons are welcome to use the computer there to check their Facebook account and brag about the epic mountain bike ride they had yesterday on the Slickrock Trail. You can also bring your own laptop and plug in for a while as you sip your espresso. 74 South Main, (435) 259-5941

photo: h.koppdelaney/Flickr

Places to go on New Year’s Eve:

Frankie D’s will be celebrating in style, with a band, libations flowing (which of course you must pay for), and probably a good deal of hootin’ and hollerin’. Join in their New Year’s bash where locals come to shoot pool, listen to live music, and swig back a beer or two. This is where to go for a classically loud, cheerful New Year’s Eve party.

Sunset Grill Restaurant is open for a nice dinner on New Year’s Eve. This is the choice if you want to dress up, have a romantic dinner for you and your sweetie, or bring the whole family for the evening. You must call for reservations. (435) 260-1819or (435) 259-7146after 4pm. Salut!

toast to the New Year

photo: jurvetson/Flickr

Things to Do on New Year’s Day:

Morning Glory Natural Bridge. It’s a short-ish (4.5 miles) hike to a very pretty example of what is actually a natural alcove arch. And what a great name to start off the new year! Its 243-foot length makes it the 6^thlongest natural rock span in the U.S. To find it, head down Negro Bill Canyon.

Corona Arch. This is a truly spectacular arch. You can snap some great shots here, better ones than at Morning Glory. Besides, it’s in Bootlegger Canyon. Who doesn’t want to hike up something named that? Let your imagination run wild as you picture bootleggers of yore hauling their illegal wares through the slickrock walls of the canyon.