Mumbai is a city that has developed strong vegetarian customs, with many areas in the city being predominantly meat free. When scouring a Mumbai menu, what is striking is the sheer quantity of vegetarian dishes available. Similar to other coastal areas of India, the Mumbai tastes and flavours are heavily associated with coconut, as well as the existence of many peanut and cashew-laden recipes.

The local Mumbai vegetarian restaurants are a great place to fill up on good cheap feed. The most authentic and interesting option is to order the Gujarati Thali; a well known favourite for many an Indian restaurateurs. The Thali is a selection of small individual dishes which are served together as a complete dish which usually consists of four chapattis, various pulses, vegetables, curd, rice and salad. One of the best known restaurants for this famous Mumbai Thali in Mumbai is the Rajdhani, which is situated right opposite the Crawfood Market in the South of the city. The restaurant is a Vegetarian’s heaven, offering authentic Thali which is served hot and quick in fancy silverware. Make sure you turn up starving as the waiters are overly eager to refill any empty spot of your plate with second, third and fourth helpings.

Another advantage of India’s long vegetarian history is the chance to dine in well established, restaurants that have spent years perfecting their own unique menus and dishes. Cream Centre is one of the oldest vegetarian restaurants in Mumbai which was established well over fifty years ago. The restaurant has transcended generations, inventing and experimenting with flavours and ingredients, with its signature dish being the famous Channa Bhatura; a mouth-watering combination of spicy chickpeas and fried bread, served with a side gajar pickle. The traditional dish is still one of the most popular being served on the menu today, but is also accompanied by more contemporary vegetarian innovations of the highest quality, as well as an irresistible pudding menu.

Indie music has particularly surfaced in recent years. Aspiring Hindie-Indie singer-song writers often frequent the scene playing live for their fans, hot names on everyone’s lips being Ankur Tewari, Arijir Datta and Nikhil D’Souza. Such talents are finally being given some well needed media attention, with the first proper Mumbai based independent music journal, ‘Indeciesien’ which promotes artists and documents their past and forthcoming performances. Aside from Indie, young Indian artists are attempting to experiment with their folkloric traditions, bringing sounds to a more contemporary tempo. Bands such as the Rajasthan Roots have taken Mumbai by storm. The band is a collective of talented musicians who fuse together modern instruments with classic folk blurring the boundaries between modernity and tradition. The music festival phenomena have also begun to catch on; in 2005 Jazz Utsav was started in Mumbai, and has since then been a popular 3 day annual festival where jazz lovers gather in the city, enjoying performances from top musician from across the globe.
The new music sounds are hosted by some equally inspiring new live music venues. The Blue Frog is a 6,000 foot converted warehouse located in central Mumbai, which pursues a passionate campaign to promote good music. Here you can listen to anything from blues and soul, rock to electronic, sitar to African drum. The uber-cool venue is frequented not only by homegrown Indian artists, but world-class musicians. Just around the corner, lies another music lovers’ paradise. Zenzi Mill is the city’s first “downtown” club bar, which provides cutting edge urban dance music and impressive DJ sets, which attracts the coolest cats on the Mumbai club scene. Along with these two important mustic, joint, Beachfront Aurus, Bonobo and Gadda da Vida have all started presenting regular live music nights.

The Oberoi is the most superior businessman’s abode. Located on Marine Drive, the hotel is situated right in the midst of the business hustle and bustle. Rooms offer panoramic views of the ocean and city, and are all equipped with all the latest technology. For those who need to wind down after some rigorous business negotiation, Oberoi’s recreational facilities include a spa, salon, 24-hour fitness centre and outdoor heated swimming pool.

For a corporate hotel with a forward looking ethos, the Orchid Hotel is Asia’s first certified eco-friendly five star establishments. The 245 room Ecotel is one of the largest corporate hotels in the city, and is strategically positioned adjacent to the domestic airport, making it mark high in travel convenience. The hotel has a contemporary design, and promises a personalized yet unobtrusive service, which attracts those from the young and ambitious end of the business world.

The four seasons Hotel is also a fine option for unrivalled hospitality and comfort. Rooms are spacious and many have a wonderful view of the sea, along with a chic dining room, swimming pool and Ayurvedic spa. If destined for more long-term negotiations, the Emerald offers both short and long-term accommodation, in the way of deluxe studios and executive apartments. The hotel has state-of-the art function and conference rooms

Otherwise; Riviera- The Corporate is a excellent hotel that aims to provide an alternative to the large more impersonal types of business accommodation. The hotel balances a fine blend of business amenities with homely comforts as well as being in a convenient location. With 55 rooms, the hotel offers business trip facilities with a personal touch. The complementary buffet breakfast is a great kick start to a successful day of business negotiations.

The festival celebrates the birth of Ganesha- the God of wisdom, prosperity and good fortune. The elephant headed deity is one of the best known and most widely worshipped gods in the Hindu religion, as well as Buddhist and Jain sects. Such an important symbol brings together followers from a spectrum of different religious faiths, celebrating and giving thanks in unison.

Over a month prior to the start of the festival, the city has already jumped into action, the streets bustling in preparation for the momentous event.  Time is passed constructing huge idols of Ganesha, lavishly decorated and installed in every locality; in the sacred corners of each Indian home, in temple and inside huge ‘Pandals’ (canopies) which are set up to house the idol in public spaces around the city. As many as 6,000 idols of Ganesh can be found in the city of Mumbai alone.

For the euphoric opening ceremony of the festival, people congregate to watch the idol being placed on an elevated pavilion.  A special ritual is performed whereby a priest invokes life into the idol by chanting mantras, whilst worshippers chant hymns and ancient scriptures to the beat of drums and dancing. The ceremony is followed by the Ganesh idol being cleaned with the ‘Panchamrit’; five nectars of milk, honey, curd, butter and jiggery. For the next ten days the whole city comes to worship the Lord Ganesh idol with whole hearted devotion.

The final day of the festival is also of paramount important. Known as the ‘Visarjan’, the day involves the farewell ceremony of the God.  The idols (known as Murtis) are carried by worshippers to the shore of Mumbai Chowpatty Beach, along with a huge following of dancers, musicians, priests, and onlookers.  Coconuts, flowers, sweets and burning camphor cubes are offered to the idol, before it is carried into the sea and then immersed great reverence- in this act it is believed that the god returns to his heavenly abode. Throughout the affair, the chant ‘Ganapathi Bappa Morya, Purchya Varshi Laukariya’ can be heard, meaning ‘O Father Ganesh! Come again early next year’.

Witnessing and being caught up in the festival is without doubt an experience that will never be forgotten, and the most incredible way to gain a true insight into the rich and unique culture of this awe-inspiring country.

C.S.T (Victoria Terminus)

The Dhobi Ghat

Having just spent three months in south-east Asia I felt reasonably well prepared for what India was about to throw at me. The rich textured smells of freshly prepared curry, street hawks, religious guru’s and the contrast of desperate poverty set against some impossibly beautiful natural surroundings, were just some of the many expectations I had of the great sub-continent. While all of these things proved to be true, nothing could have prepared me for the indefinable tastes of the real India.

Arriving at a suitably crowded and hot Mumbai airport shortly after noon presented me with my first glimpse of what life was like in the second most populous city on earth.

Now words of warning here, if Mumbai is your gateway to India, ensure that you have some local currency to hand should you wish to make it out of the airport. We landed to discover that there were no cash machines, and but for the goodwill of an Indian women behind a taxi desk, we would more than likely still be lugging our 20kg packs the 35km to the city centre.

My first impression of Mumbai was one of extreme urban poverty amid a kind of crumbling decadence. The view as our plane touched down was a sea of poorly built shacks covered by unpainted metal sheeting that barely disguised the hive of activity that existed below.

In the cramped and filthy alleyways that passed for streets, devoid of any sanitation and access to clean water, I couldn’t bring myself to accept that there were 7 million people living in these conditions in this one city alone. I was even more dumbstruck to learn that Mumbai is ranked among the worlds top ten cities for billionaires.

Our first day in Mumbai was spent taking in the charming streets of Colaba, a popular district among foreigners and wealthier Indians alike. Lying on Thane Creek in the southern reaches of the city, Colaba is a wash with beautiful architecture and quiet leafy residential areas well away from the frenetic buzz of other districts.

What I immediately liked about the city were the sharp contrasts. We were finding Indian men serving up various local delicacies from portable street carts, sandwiched between colonial relics and high end boutiques. The Regal Theatre, Gateway to India and Taj Palace Hotel were all within walking distance and contributed greatly to the area’s ambience.

After a hard bargained taxi ride through the heart of the city passing historical sights such as the stunning C.S.T (Victoria Terminus), the Mumbai High Court and Mumbai University, we made it to the Dhobi Ghat, known to be the world’s largest human washing machine.

Perched on the flyover bridge of Mahalaxmi Station we watched with amazement as countless open air concrete wash pens were filled with activity. In the basking heat scores of men hurriedly soaked, scrubbed and beat what looked like the entire city’s laundry.

The ease with which you can engage with Mumbai and it’s people is something I have seldom experienced in a major international city. Beyond the perpetually accosting street hawks of Chor Bizaar, Colaba and Zaveri Bazaar, we were greeted with nothing but a genuine warmth and intrigue wherever we went.

One evening we took a wander along the long c-shaped Marine Drive and the lively Chowpatty Beach, stopping periodically to pose for pictures, sometimes individually, sometimes with entire Indian families. I think we finished the evening with about five business cards, several phone numbers and several wedding invitations.

Perhaps the greatest experience I took from my time in Mumbai was somehow finding my way onto a Bollywood set advertising shoe polish with two Indian child prodigies. On a chance encounter with a Bollywood scout in Colaba we were persuaded to meet at the YMCA the following morning for a day of filming, the promise of a good lunch and as much Indian chai as we liked.

Now not one to pass up the offer of something new in a city as exciting as Mumbai, I agreed albiet tentively expecting some sort of impending doom or scam at best. Aside from a long day, the tea did flow freely as promised and I even received 700Rupees as payment for a stella performance as an extra in a thirty second shoe polish commercial. The last place I expected to taste fame was in Mumbai, though with the worlds most prolific film industry on it’s doorstep, perhaps this was always set  to be the venue for my big break in the TV world?

From sipping tea from expensive china in the suave surroundings of the luxurious Taj Hotel, and strolling through some of Asia’s largest slums, Mumbai is not a city you can easily call predictable. With more millionaires per square mile than Manhattan, you could find yourself in the company of landed gentry for lunch just as easily as you could find yourself fending off monkeys around the caves of Elephant Island.

1. Chor Bazaar. Operating for over 150 years, this market is prime real estate for hustlers, sellers, ne’er do wells and legitimate business men alike. “Chor” meaning “Thief”, the market is known to be the first stop for a lot of Mumbai’s missing goods. Find treasures, trash and everyday items for obscenely low prices. Keep an eye on your wallet, though, and be prepared to haggle.

2. Towers of Silence. Zoroastrianism, which may be the world’s oldest monotheistic religeon, proscribes that the dead be exposed to the sun and to the birds on the top of a squat, broad roofed tower. It is seen not only as a clean way to deal with human remains but as a final act of charity to the birds. Go with an attitude of respect and consider leaving the camera in your backpack. A cemetary demeanor would be appropriate.

3. Elephanta Caves. In the Mumbai Harbor there is a small island containing two groups of caves, one Hindu one Buddhist. Both contain hand carved statuary to the prominent figures of each religion. Nobody knows for sure who carved the stone. The carvings have been narrowed to between the 5th and 8th centuries, though. Nothing of this complexity and age exists on the North American continent.

4. Haji Ali Dargah. A mosque and tomb located on an islet in Southern Mumbai, the structure doesn’t look like anything I’ve seen elsewhere. It is visited by over 40,000 pilgrims on Thursdays and Fridays, most seeking the blessing of Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Sha Bukhari, a Muslim Saint. According to legend, the mosque and tomb were built on the place his casket struck land after his disciples (per his direction) cast it into the sea.

5. Walkeshwar Temple. Originally built in 1127 AD, this temple marks the spot where Hindu god Ram paused while chasing demon king Ravana who had kidnapped Ram’s wife, Sita. It was destroyed by the Portuguese and rebuilt in 1715. Currently the temple hosts an annual Hindu classic music festival. It is also quite busy during the full moon and new moons, when worshippers crowd to it. In the 16th and 17th centuries it was a favorite of the Malabar pirates.

With so many unfamiliar things to see and so much diversity, there is no reason for Mumbai to feel like anywhere but Mumbai. When you are there, get out and see something on this list. Explore some of the difference in the world. You’ll be glad you did.

1. Ganesh Chaturthi celebrates the birthday of the elephant god Ganesh, and is the biggest Hindu festival in the city. Taking place over 10 days in August or September (based on the Hindu calendar), everyone gets some form of a colorful Ganesh statue to place within their home. Huge community celebrations featuring songs and theater take place, special sweets are cooked, and on the last day the biggest statues of Ganesh are taken to the beaches and cast out into the sea.

2. Diwali is the most famous of Indian festivals, and is also known as the Festival of Lights. It takes place over 5 days in September and October, and people of all religions celebrate Diwali together in Mumbai. Several events taking place between the Hindu gods are the focus of the holiday, but all symbolize the triumph of good and light over evil and darkness. And in Mumbai, citizens take the name “Festival of Light” quite literally, and candles, lanterns, and plenty of fireworks light up the night sky.

3. Ramadan-Id is another religious holiday that’s become more open to the whole citizenry of Mumbai, although its origins are Muslim. This day marks the end of the fast of the month of Ramadan, and what do you do at the end of a fast? You eat! The main dish served is sweet noodles, called sivaiyan, but there’s plenty more to dine on during this November festival of feasting.

4. Janmashtami is another Hindu festival that celebrates the birth of Lord Krishna. It’s also marked by one of the most fun and unique celebrations. Large pots of buttermilk, or handis, are set up around the city dozens of feet above the ground, and participants form massive human pyramids to get within swinging reach. The person at the top of the pyramid attempts to break the handi by hitting it with a club or other object, and then the entire pyramid is doused with buttermilk after it breaks. Meant to celebrate the ability of cooperation in achieving a common goal, the ritual has also become financial in appeal, with politicians and other benefactors offering large sums of rupees to the winning group of pyramid-builders.

5. Mount Mary’s Feast takes place at the beginning of September, and although it’s a Christian holiday, anyone can enjoy the fun. Hundreds of the sick and destitute migrate to the Church in Bandra to pray for help at the time of the Virgin Mary’s birth, but everyone comes to participate in the carnival atmosphere that overtakes the entire neighborhood. If you’re thinking about souvenir shopping, save it for this festival – the area turns into its own bazaar, with tons of delicious food and beautiful crafts to be explored and sampled.

[photo courtesy of jpereira_net]