It’s about an hour and a half from Munich to the first stop:  Weltenburg Monastery

Stop number one is the oldest monastery brewery in the world and the oldest monastery in Bavaria.  The monastery was founded around the year 620 and brewing production started in 1050.  The brewery has won numerous international brewing awards and is considered some of the finest beer in the country.

Its location, directly on the Danube in what is known as the “Danube gorge” is a strikingly beautiful bend of the river.  Weltenburg has a large beer garden in its courtyard and beer and other souvenirs can be bought to go as well.  The monastery’s church, designed by the famous Asam brothers of Munich, has one of the most beautiful altar pieces this writer and tour guide has ever seen in any country.  The altar is late baroque in style and is of Saint George killing the dragon.  If you’ve seen the Asamkirche in Munich, you’ll want to see this church.

The second stop on this road trip is to a massive modern monument built by King Ludwig the first between 1842 and 1863 called the Befreiungshalle or Hall of liberation.  It was built to commemorate the victories against Napoleon between 1813 and 1815.  Itself a spectacularly beautiful structure, it also offers an amazing view of the Danube and Altmühl rivers from its top.

The third stop, just upstream from the Hall of Liberation, is Castle Prunn (Burg Prunn).  It is a proper medieval castle built on a rocky ledge overlooking the Altmühl River.  It was first mentioned in 1037, lived in for hundreds of years, and still looking good today.   Tours are conducted in German and English daily.  Depending on your timing, you will most likely have to wait at least 30 minutes for the next tour, making this the perfect spot to stop for lunch.  Directly between the parking lot and the castle there is a Bavarian restaurant with a beer garden.

The fourth and final stop before heading back to Munich is another castle, or really castle ruins.  This 11^th century castle was not tremendously important to the region, but is honestly a lesser known tourist sight that is closer to what a real castle lover wants to see than the majority of castles accessible to tourists in Germany.  It’s the ruins of what used to be a common castle in the medieval period.  After seeing a high end castle like Burg Prunn, this one serves to show you what happened to the lesser majority.

What you should first decide is which kind of tour you would like.  As I’ve already written about that on this blog, I would like to refer you to that previous article first, you can read it here.

Let’s start with bus tours. 

There are two bus companies operating city tours in Munich.  Both companies have their city bus tours start from directly across the street from the main train station.  Their regular city tours are both hop on hop off style tours, just with slightly different durations and languages offered.  Both offer English.

Citysight seeing Munich  - (all are hop on hop off style tours and are 1 hr. tours) City Tour, Nymphenburg-Olympia tour, Schwabing tour

Grayline – Express Hop on hop off City Tour (1hr.), Grand Hop on hop off city tour (2.5hrs.),

Walking tours, in my personal opinion the best option to see it all, are also the most popular and of course there are several companies to choose from.  Here are two of the three companies operating walking tours as of January 2012, the third company I will not mention as I prefer not to promote tours operated by tourists:

Radius Tours – Radius Tours offerings:  Munich City Tour, Third Reich Tour, Munich After Dark (ghost tour), and the Bavarian Beer and Food Tour.  This company also offers several day trips from Munich using public transport including Dachau concentration camp and Salzburg.

Munich Walk Tours – Munich Walk Tours offerings:  Munich City Tour, Third Reich Tour, Ghost Tour, and a Beer Tour.  This tour company offers day trips from Munich using public transport to Dachau and Salzburg.

Bike Tours are another big option in Munich, at least for the warmer six months of the year.  Although the majority of the old town is off limits, there is plenty you can see from a bike in Munich.

Mike’s Bike Tours – Of the backpacker orientated bike tours, Mike’s Bikes has been king for a couple decades.  It’s the original party on wheels.

Frankie’s bike Tours – Frankie was for many years Mike’s Bike Tours head guide.   The two had a falling out, and Frankie, as Mike’s Bike Tours head guide, parted ways and created his own.  He’s got brand new bikes and always has a fun time.

Lenny’s Bike Tours – Lenny’s Bike Tours are the cheapest bike tours in town.  Originally another split from the Mike’s Bike Tours camp, this one is the most popular bike tour in town.

Radius’s Bike Tours – More a tour than a bike and a beer (unlike the others), this is a compromise tour between those who want a bike tour and those who want to see and hear Munich’s history.

In the end, it completely depends on your style and how much money you want to spend.  In my opinion, private tours offer the best tour, but at a price.  All walking tour companies and bike tour companies offer private tours and nearly all guides for each of those companies are freelancers, so if you want to pay less for a private tour, contact the guide you want direct and it will be cheaper for you and at the same time more money for the guide.

1. Kennedy’s Irish Pub and Restaurant – Kennedy’s is the new Irish pub in town.  Its location right next to Munich’s Southern gate, the Sendlinger Tor, makes it easy for all to find as well.  It’s open late and has live music six days a week.  It’s always lively, has sports on several screens, and stays open later than most.
2. Killian’s Irish Pub – From the same owner as Kennedy’s, this place is simply the busiest Irish pub in town.  Live music almost every night of the week and great food make this a sweet option.  Its entrance is literally right behind the cathedral’s altar, so you should be able to find it!
3. Molly Malone’s Irish Pub – This is the neighborhood Irish bar for the hip part of town known as Heidhausen.  Heidhausen is also known for being the location of Munich’s “Hilton city center” and “Holiday Inn City Center.”  So if you are staying at either of those hotels, this is your best bet.
4. Ryan’s Muddy Boot – A tiny little Irish pub close to Rotkreuzplatz.  This is a small neighborhood Irish bar similar to Molly Malone’s except it’s on the opposite side of town.  If you’re staying at the Jugendherberge youth hostel or any of the dozen or so hotels at Rotkreuzplatz, this is the one you should aim for.
5. The Shamrock – This is the most popular Irish pub with the university crowd, mostly because it is located between the University and the English garden, making it an easy location for students.  It’s usually busy any night of the week and has live music most nights.

There are several bike rental companies in town with the easiest being the bike rental at the Hauptbahnhof (the main train station) as it is open most of the year, the location is central, and they have English speaking staff.  Radius Tours and bike Rental can be found directly in front of track 31 in the main train station.

Another option for biking in Munich would be bike tours.  There are, as of 2012, four tour companies offering bike tours of the city.  I do not, however, recommend the bike tours and here is why:  they don’t show you the historic part of the city.  Since this is the case, I just don’t understand why anyone would choose a bike tour over a walking tour.   Biking Munich is best when you’re alone or with your friends and family.

Where should you go with a bike?  Well, there are lots of options depending on your fitness level.  Munich is an extremely flat city, so even if you’re not really in shape you should still be able to get around Munich easily.  That being said:  Nymphenburg palace, the Olympic park, and the English gardens are the usual top choices for tourists with bicycles and they seem to please nearly every time.  Be sure to get a map before you leave the bike rental and it should be no problem!

• Restaurant 181 at Olympiaturm – Known by most simply as the restaurant at the top of the Olympic tower, this place has a Michelin star rated chef, awesome views of the Olympic park, and could be perfect at sunset.
• Tantris – Munich’s best known high-end restaurant isn’t just known for its food, but also its exquisite atmosphere.  Make sure to reserve well in advance for this one.
• Master’s Home – For the quirky couples, this place is romantic in an awkward because we’re eating in someone’s bathroom sort of way.  Several course menus do not disappoint.
• Paulaner Am Nockherberg – The restaurant physically connected to the Paulaner brewery (although the brewery is moving soon) is just far enough out of the city center so that most tourists never see it.  Known for its top notch Bavarian food, classy atmosphere, and good service, this is especially a good idea in the colder months of the year.

1. Kennedy’s Irish Restaurant and pub – Kennedy’s Irish Restaurant and Pub is Munich’s newest Irish bar and one of the most popular.  Kennedy’s regularly shows international soccer games and on request can show American football and baseball.   Its location, directly at Sendlinger Tor, is easy to find for tourists and locals alike.
2. Ned Kelly’s Australian bar – Ned Kelly’s is a bar that tries to please everyone and has several screens that can each have a separate game.  It is located right behind the altar of the Frauenkirche (the cathedral), so it should be easy enough to find.
3. Champion’s bar – Champions bar is an American themed place that tries to make available all things American, which of course includes American sports.  The only problem with this one is the location, unless of course you’re staying at the Marriott hotel, in which case you don’t even have to go outside.
4. Hard Rock Café – The Hard Rock Café in Munich regularly plays American sports at the bar with no volume, but if there is demand they have a back room where they will put audio on.  Most big games that means there will be 20 people in there with great sound and massive screens.
5. Feuerberg – An American themed bar that is geared more toward expats and Germans who like American things than it is toward tourists, they go out of their way to make sure you can watch whatever game you want.
6. Euro Youth Hostel – If you’re the type that is staying in a hostel than you could just as easily watch your sports right at the bar of the Euro Youth Hostel.  They play most NFL, Soccer, and whatever else they have demand for.

With any of these places, if you want to be sure they are going to play a specific game, call and ask, it’s the only guarantee.

All things considered, I would like to focus on the region known as Bavaria.  Munich is the capital of Bavaria and so it makes sense to have maybe one or two side trips from Munich to these places involving an overnight stay.  These of course could be done as a day trip, but if you have the time can make for great weekend trips as well.

1. Rothenburg ob der Tauber – This beautiful town on the romantic road is on the shortlist for most travelers simply because of the beauty of the town.  Historically it was a small backwater village and because of that, it remains for the most part a fully intact medieval town.  Walk along the top of the city walls, tour the largest crime and punishment museum in the world, or visit the town hall’s dungeon for a wonderful weekend away from the big city lights of Munich.
2. Würzburg – At the Northern tip of the romantic road, Würzburg is often overlooked in favor of Rothenburg.  However, Würzburg is a completely different experience and one that is just as interesting and in many was more interesting due to several architectural styles and drastic age differences amongst its beautiful buildings .  Since it is a larger town it was bombed during the Second World War, but enough has remained to make it one of my top choices for sightseeing in the entire country.  If you decide to make it a long weekend, you can make Rothenburg a day trip from Würzburg as there is more to see in Würzburg.  The Castle on the hill or the largest fresco in the world are just the starting points.
3. Hohenschwangau – Just six kilometers from the nearest train station (Füssen), Hohenschwangau’s two famous palaces are what draw millions of visitors per year.  If you want to take your time and see both palaces, then spending a night in Hohenschwangau, neighboring Füssen, or just over the border in Reutte (Austria) might be a good idea.  In fact, there are several medieval castles in the area that can be visited easily by public transportation and a good pair of hiking shoes.

1. Isar River Rafting – Rafting down the fast flowing Isar River with a brass band and a keg of beer sounds quite appealing to many visitors and if it sounds good you as well, you should check out more information here:   http://www.isarflossfahrten.biz/isar-log-rafting/
2. Grünwald Castle – Grünwald is a southern suburb of Munich easily accessable by a tram (street car).  Grünwald castle, dating from the 13^th century, is the most impressive castle in the Munich area and is open as a museum.  http://www.gemeinde-gruenwald.de/tourismus___verkehr/ausflugsziele/120.asp
3. Blutenburg Castle – Blutenburg (blood castle) is a beautiful castle in a park on the western side of the city.  Although there is nothing to tour inside, there is a restaurant/cafe in the courtyard and you can visit the castle chapel.  It’s definitely worthwhile for a summer afternoon. http://www.schloesser.bayern.de/englisch/palace/objects/mu_blut.htm
4. Andechs Monastery – A full day trip from Munich if you consider the S-bahn, the hike, and a meal.  This is a trip that is usually mentioned in guide books, but gets very few foreigners because of its awkward location for travelers. http://www.andechs.de/
5. Egyptian Museum – The Egyptian museum of Munich, although technically inside one of the city’s biggest draws, the Residenz, is just enough out of the way that most tourists overlook it. http://www.aegyptisches-museum-muenchen.de/
6. Weihenstephan Brewery – The oldest continuously operating brewery in the world.  The brewery offers group tours and has a lovely beer garden.  It’s located in Freising, which is a town at the end of the S-bahn line and very close to Munich’s airport. http://www.weihenstephaner.de/
7. Therme Erding – One of Europe’s largest spa complexes with Europe’s largest array of waterslides, there is something for anyone who enjoys water at the Therme Erding.  It’s popular with romantics, families, and even the elderly making it truly one of those places that everyone seems to love.  http://www.therme-erding.de/
8. Schleissheim Palace – Designed to be the largest summer palace complex of the Wittelsbach family (which would also make it the largest baroque palace in all of Germany today), only the main buildings are left standing.  You’ll have a massive beautifully baroque palace nearly to yourself even at the height of the season making this perfect for romantics.  It’s a short 20 minute S-bahn ride to Oberschleissheim, followed by a five minute walk to the palace grounds. http://www.schloesser.bayern.de/englisch/palace/uebers/schl_ges.htm
9. Fürstenfeld Abby – Unlike the other monasteries on the list, this one is not a brewery.   The reason for visiting the Fürstenfeld Abby is the sheer beauty of the church.  Directly on the beaten path tour guides talk about the monastery and why it was built, but rarely do tourists actually take the time to ride twenty minutes out of town to the famous monastery.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F%C3%BCrstenfeld_Abbey
10. Bavaria Film studios – The Bavaria Film Stadt is famous for producing films such as Das Boot and The Never Ending Story.  Have a guided tour of one of the largest film studio complexes in Europe. http://www.bavaria-filmstadt.de

Olympiaberg – The Olympiaberg is a hill at the Olympic Park where hundreds of people gather to launch (or just watch) massive amounts of fireworks.  If you head out to the Olympic Park it is pretty easy to see where you want to set up, just make sure to be there around midnight and I recommend fire resistant clothing as well as helmets.

Kult Fabrik & Optimalwerke – These two areas with dozens dance clubs are where to be if you want to party hard.  If you’re between 18 and 30 years old, no matter what your taste in music or refreshments, you should be able to find something out there as long as you don’t mind everyone else partying as hard as possible too!

Hofbräuhaus – Normally I would suggest only visiting the ground floor of the Hofbräuhaus.  However, New Year’s Eve is one of those times where you might want to head on upstairs and do it with class in the fest hall.   This year’s band is a local acoustic, blues, folk sing-a-long band that could be a very cultural experience and even better if you understand German.  Make sure to book ahead through the Hofbräuhaus itself.

Tollwood – Tollwood is a festival held on the Oktoberfest grounds and for New Year’s Eve they have live bands, DJs, and of course hundreds of people launching fireworks at midnight.

Marienplatz – No matter what you are doing in Munich the rest of the evening, if you want to be at ground zero, then you have to be at Marienplatz.  This is probably the most dangerous option (because of the tremendous amounts of fireworks people set off), but could also be the most fun and certainly great for photos.

Augsburg – The oldest Christmas market in the region is my personal favorite.  As it is the oldest city in Bavaria there is plenty in the city to see even without the Christmas market, though the market itself makes the city a highlight.  The main market is directly in front of the Rathaus, but it extends throughout the entire pedestrian area which is the center of the city.  At 6pm each night (and 7pm on December 23^rd) there is a special performance held at the Rathaus where 24 “angels”   appear on the window sills of the Rathaus and perform music.  To get to Augsburg either take a day trip tour or go alone on any of the trains that run every half hour from Munich and run until just after midnight.

Landshut – Just like with Augsburg, this city has plenty to see for any tourist even without the Christmas market, but during this particular time of year the market pushes Landshut to be on the top of the list of day trips from Munich.  The market is held in front of the Rathaus and along the pedestrian street in the old town.  There are no tours to Landshut from Munich, but all regional trains in the direction of Regensburg stop at Landshut and the last train back is around midnight.

Würzburg – Not doable as a day trip from Munich, but still one of the best Christmas markets in the region, Wurzburg is a city with a beautiful castle as well as a beautiful downtown area.  Right in the old central marketplace today they have their Christmas market.  This might be a great alternative to the tiny (but yet extremely commercial-touristy) Rothenburg ob der Tauber market.

Another alternative is, within Munich, to go to the more local suburban Christmas markets like my personal favorite in Munich, the Haidhausen Christmas market.  It is easy to find, just take any S-bahn to Rosenheimer strasse.

Christmas markets to stay away from unless you enjoy absolutely massive crowds and commercialism would be Salzburg, Nuremberg, and Regensburg.  If you absolutely must visit these massive markets I would strongly advise to stay away from the weekends and maybe visit earlier in the day.