El Parian is the most popular and typical market of the city, and it’s a must for tourists, since this is the best place to buy crafts. But originally, this market wasn’t planned for crafts but for food.

Around 1714, what now is the Zocalo, was a plaza that was slowly being filled with stalls. This became the economic center of the city, and the plaza soon was a market all together, but it was insalubrious for the city, as well as dangerous since at that time there was no conception of safety. The plaza had become a dirty and dangerous place, and the concerns were that this was in the center of the city.

All this was proven in 1796 when a fire destroyed most of the stalls and dozens of people were hurt. The government decided to move the market further away, to avoid this kind of hazard affected the residences and the Cathedral. The construction of the new market began in 1801, and was planed by Antonio Inchaurregui, the same architected that planed the famous Casa del Alfeñique, in front of the market.

Casa del Alfeñique

The full installment of the stalls in the new market was hard, people were resilient about leaving the Zocalo, believing the maids weren’t gonna walk so far. But by 1854 the market was completed and completely occupied.

During the 20th Century, the Victoria Market became the main market in the city, and being closer to the Zocalo, the Parian was soon consigned to oblivion. The government later decided to turn the market into a craft market, to attract more tourists.

The Poblano Baroque market consists on two parallel rows of stalls built with bricks and talavera. Each stall is an explosion of colors, forms, smells and sensations. In el Parian you can find talavera pieces, onyx and typical mexican toys and candies, mexican clothing, sombreros, tequila, mole, wooden crafts and much much more.

They say first impression is never forgotten, and in this case, is so much what you see, above you, in front of you and next to you, the first impression is surly to stay with you for ever. So when you’re in Puebla, don’t forget to visit El Parian, and enjoy all that you will find.

[photos courtesy of Vica Amuchastegui]

The building resisted time until the mid XX Century, when the house was sold. Most part of it was demolished and the rest, only two rooms, was used as warehouse. Layers of painting covered the walls, and one day the murals were discovered, but a movie theatre had been built and the murals of the rest of the house, if there were any, were long lost.

By 1953 the recovery of the murals began and the house was later opened for visit. They’ve been subject to multiple restorations, until in October 2010 the final and full restoration of the murals was completed, and the house reopened its doors.

The facade, in a renaissance style, with columns and a coat of arms on top of a balcony, is strong and beautiful, and it still makes pedestrians turn their heads. Once inside, you are immediately conducted to a magistral staircase reconstructed with original pieces. This stair will led you to a small hall, through which you’ll enter the two most magical rooms in Mexico.

The first room is decorated with representations of Sibilas, women who got from the God Apollo the gift of prophecy. They’re being part of a parade filled with color and symbolism. Each Sibilia is dressed as a XVI Century woman  and has a banner with a prophesy about the passion of Christ printed on it.

Many animals, small characters, and vegetation are the background of this splendid sight. The frieze has fruits, flowers, kids and exotic birds. Another coat of arms can be seen there as well. You can also see that one of the windows was built after the murals were painted, for a Sibila is incomplete.

A Sibila

It’s uncertain what function this room served, but based on the little niche near to the door, some people think it could have been the dinner. This little niche connected to a log lost room, so we may never know how this room was used.

The next room was don Tomas’ bedroom and has on its walls a narration of a Petrarca poem: The Triumphs. This allegory talks not only about love, but human condition. It is about the triumph of love above men, but Love can be defeated by Death, who can be beaten by Fame, defeated in turn by Time, which give up before Divinity. The four walls of this room show artistically these ideas, and are again completed by images of fruits, birds, kids, and more.

The murals are beautifully made, but their importance come not only from their artistically value, but because these are rare and unique samples of non-religious mural painting in the XVI century in Mexico. Its importance lies in the fact that some of the topics depicted on the walls were considered forbidden by the church for many decades. In fact, there are the oldest murals with a non-religious theme still standing in America.

If you are in Puebla, you can’t miss this amazing spectacle. The visit won’t take you more than half and hour, and is just half of a block from the Zocalo, so it won’t take you out of your route. But believe me, it’s worth the visit.

[photos courtesy of Vica Amuchástegui]

This is the view from a field near Cholula, where nothing stands between you and the volcanoes. It’s such a powerful feeling, to know you’re standing so close to these amazing natural wonders. They are so majestic and great, you can barely keep your sight off them.

People living in Puebla and Cholula are lucky. They get to see the volcanoes everyday, and thought they’re not always this snowy, they are without a doubt always beautiful.

Izta

Popo

[photos courtesy of Vica Amuchástegui]

The other day, while walking around downtown Puebla, I came up with this lovely kid dressed in what seemed to be an Aztec- reminiscence costume. His face was so beautiful, with a tanned skin and sweet eyes. I thought it had to be one of the cutest things I’ve ever seen in Puebla. I took this picture so I could share it with all of you.

Don’t you agree with me? He was beautiful. He was standing in front of me just for a second, before his mom took him to do his little dance someplace else. What a great way to end my day!

[photos courtesy of Vica Amuchástegui]

You’re only job is to decide what kind of celebration do you want. Maybe something elegant, kind of a five-star experience, or a charming little place. Or maybe something cheap yet romantic. Just read all these options and decide for yourself. The important thing is you have a happy, romantic, filled with love Valentine’s Day no matter where you are.

The Splurge

Are you so in love you really don’t care about spending money to make your loved one really happy? Are you in the mood for a romantic, with really good food evening? Then you should go to La Conjura. This is, without a doubt, the best restaurant in Puebla, and it’s also set in a romantic, candle lighted ambiance. You’ll leave you’re partner even more in love with you!

Your Soon to be Favorite Romantic Place

If you are looking for a romantic restaurant with great food, a little bit of romantic music and good wine, the place to go is La Route des Vins (even the name sounds romanic, doesn’t it?). Enjoy a delicious fondue with a quality wine and a tasty dessert. The perfect starting point of a very romantic night. This will definitely become your favorite place in Puebla, you won’t get tired of it and you’ll want to go back again and again.

How Does Romantic is a Fondue?

The Charming Little Place

Are you trying to impress somebody? Let’s not left in this person any doubt that you are the one, he most romantic person anybody could ever found! Then, how does it sounds to take your Valentine to La Tapía, a small tapas place on top of the La Paz hill, with a marvelous view of the city. Cozy chairs, romantic music, a little bit of tapas, a little bit of wine, what else do you need?

Romantic Doesn’t Mean Expensive

Do you want a cozy place, with good food, great ambiance, but not so expensive? How does an oven pizza snuggled up in pillows or in a fancy couch sounds? The place is La Burbula and is one of the coolest places in town and serves some of the best pizzas as well. So it’s the perfect place to spend a romantic yet cheap Valentine’s Day, don’t you think?

A Cheap Valentine

Cheap doesn’t necessarily means ugly. Plus, remember that the romance it’s an ingredient you’ll be providing, so it really doesn’t matter the place. My recommendation for a cheap, yet romantic Valentine is any Italian Coffee on the Portales (the animated covered sidewalks around the Zocalo). There are 3 Italian Coffee (that’s the name of the place, I’m not sending you to look up for a place that does its coffee the Italian way) by the Zocalo, one in each Portal. The romantic thing here, is going around 7pm and enjoy the Zocalo and the Cathedral all lighted up, listen to the music and later on the night, look at the stars. If you have a few pesos to spare, you can run to buy your Valentine a cool ballon from any ballon vendor around (there are a lot). So, as you can see, you don’t need to ope your piggy bank to have a romantic Valentine’s day.

Romantic Puebla by Night

The Plus: February 14th for Single People

If you are single, don’t worry, in México February 14 is actually “Day of the Love and the Friendship”, so you can celebrate with your friends too! My recommendation? Go to a place where you can drink, meet new people, listen to music and have a good time. I’d definitely go to Cholula, Bull McCabe or McCarthy’s Pub. Just have fun!

(photos courtesy of  anadorei and RussBowling / Flickr)

Capilla del Rosario

But the truth is the words to describe all this are hard to find and I´m afraid they all could sound a little cliche, because the best adjectives to describe this site are “unique”, “unlivable” and “exquisite”.  Only those words can do justice to the Capilla del Rosario. It’s pretty clear why this chapel has been considered, for centuries, the Colonial Baroque Jewel of Mexico.

The church housing the chapel is not as splendid, though it’s beautiful too. The fact is it’s not fair to compare them, but one can’t helping, having to walk through the church to enter the chapel. The beauty of the main altar of the Santo Domingo Church is soon minimized after giving a first glance to the Capilla del Rosario. But why does a church, not different from others in Mexico, has this jewel in it.

Capilla del Rosario

The Santo Domingo Church was built between 1571 and 1611, and while the quarry facade is grey and dark, the inside is more ornamented, with gilded stucco work and a 1688 main altar created by Pedro Maldonado. In 1650 Fray Juan de Cuenca, a devout of Our Lady of the Rosary, envisioned a chapel dedicated to the virgin with the aim of teaching the rosary and pass to the locals his devotion. To achieve this, the chapel had to be the greatest thing anybody had seen, and he did so. As soon as it was finished in 1690 it was considered the Eighth Wonder of the World. Its dazzling use of gilded stucco and onyx stonework was never before seen, and it created a commotion in the New Spain territories.

Still today, the chapel is something just incredible, and I’m not using this term lightly, the strongly ornamented but yet elegant and tidy space is small, but so rich that you could be there for hours, admiring all that’s surrounding you, and still would have the feeling of not have seen but only a small part of it.

Capilla del Rosario

The Capilla del Rosario is a must-see site in Puebla, and be sure to have enough time to enjoy it. It is open from 7:30 to 14:00 and from 16:00 to 20:00 everyday. If you happen to go while a mass is being celebrated on the Church, just be quiet and go to the aisle on your left hand side to get to the chapel without interrupting the congregation.

The legend of this emblematic woman was born between the XVI and XVII in Puebla, in New Spain. Mirrha was a child from Mongolia, formerly in China, who was she was sold to a merchant who then took her to New Spain to be the Viceroy’s personal servant. But as soon as they arrived to Acapulco, a wealthy man from Puebla, called Miguel de Sosa, offered a big amount of money for her, almost ten times more than the Viceroy, so the merchant sold her to him instead.

China Poblana old picture

Miguel de Sosa taught Mirrha to read, to pray and to behave like an European lady. She became a Catholic, changed her name to Catarina de San Juan and created a mix of her typical dressing and the skirts she saw on the indigenous women. This dress became famous and soon everybody in Puebla have heard about the young woman who came from China and wore the most beautiful dresses, she came to be known as La China Poblana (Poblano/a is the name of the people from Puebla, Chino/a of the people from China).

China Poblana Fountain

When Miguel de Sosa died, he provided Catarina’s manumission in his will, and she decided to enter a convent. As a member of the Poor Clares of Saint Augustine Catarina studied philosophy, theology and law; she made her main priority con coexist and convert indigenous people by teaching them catechism, a work she realized until she died in 1688.

Today she’s remembered not only for her dress, that became part of the identity of Puebla, but also because of her life devoted to helping, educating and teaching others. She is also a symbol of unity, of Puebla’s community. It’s amazing that 322 years after she died, this woman is still recognized and remembered for all the good work and love she gave to this city. Her tomb is in La Compañía de Jesus Temple, and is still one of the most visited in Puebla.

Her legend was born with that dress, the colorful, bright and highly ornamented dress that has been a symbol of Mexico all over the world. But her story was real and is still an inspirational one. And walking around Puebla you’ll find many reminders of this woman, the China Poblana Fountain is a classic landmark of the city. The Casona de la China Poblana is a hotel in what used to be her house before she entered the convent. The Museo Regional de Antropologia e Historia has some examples of the China Poblana dress, as well as its story. So, as you can see, this woman’s story is unequivocally liked to Puebla’s story, so come and get immerse in this amazing tale of love, faith and destiny.

Mexican Dresses

(photos courtesy of  jrsnchzhrs, Karen Apricot New Orleans and LaBellaVida / Flickr)

The town of Xanenetla was founded by Tlaxcaltecas (people coming from Tlaxcala) around the same time the city of Puebla was being built by the Spaniards, during the Spanish Colony. It was separated from the city only by the San Francisco River and it didn’t take long before it became one of the most important towns around the city. The people of Xanentla were potters and they used to fabricate the bricks used to build some of the most exquisite and beautiful buildings in Puebla.

However, as time went by, the city started to grow and the town became a barrio in the middle of Puebla. Cheaper bricks could be found someplace else, and in the 1960’s the San Francisco river was tubed, creating a new, large, busy boulevard. The once important town had become a neglected and soon forgotten barrio with a traffic wall separating it from the historic downtown of the city.

Xanenetla Mural

In 2009 a group of artists called Colectivo Tomate started paying attention to Xanenetla, and came up with a plan to not only revitalized and regenerate the barrio, but also to bring the community and the city together trough art. They’ve created a project called Puebla Ciudad Mural, and invited the people from Puebla, Mexico and around the world to come help improve the barrio.

They’ve been working along the families living in Xanenetla to create murals depicting the story of the barrio, their present situation and their hopes for the future. This is the new mural movement of the city and so far 16 out of 52 murals have been made.

Artist working on a Mural

This is an ongoing project and very soon they’ll start painting again following the same method they’ve been working with so far. First they issue a call for application inviting artists, designers and people willing to help to send a sketch of a mural to enter a selection. The artists chosen are arranged in teams depending their skills and styles, trying to bring together artists that will complement each other. A family and a facade is assigned to every team, and between all of them (the artists and the members of the family) a mural is planned.

To visit the barrio, to admire and enjoy the murals is almost like reading a story, the story of the people of Xanenetla. The first murals on the tour talk about the family living in that house, or maybe their ancestors, the original landscape or their traditions. The second part talks about what the barrio is like today, how the community lives and what they do. The rest of the murals talk about what the barrio wishes for the future, how they would like to see Xanenetla and what they want for their kids and grandkids.

Xanenetla Mural

This project is unique in México, is the only art intervention in a historic site that actually goes with the environment and brings out its history, instead of creating a new one. It doesn’t give the barrio a new identity, it simply rescue it. This is not only an artistic project, it goes way beyond that, it’s also a social and community one. It’s bringing together the people who live in the barrio, and it’s also bringing the city closer together. The citizens of Puebla are working hand in hand for the well-being of their neighbors, and just that alone is worth celebrating.

Xanenetla is an example of young people wanting the best for their city and their country. An example of art bringing old, adult and young people together, focusing their energies, hearts and hands in a project for themselves. Not to mention the quality of the murals is impeccable, it’s like the houses just got new dresses, beautiful, tailor-made, colorful new dresses.

Xanenetla Mural

If you want to visit the murals of Xanenetla, in Puebla, the address of the starting point of the tour is 4 norte at Blvd. H. 5 de Mayo, the murals will guide you from there. There are no opening hours, or closed days, you can go whenever you like. Of you want to travel to Puebla and help design or paint new murals, just get in touch with Colectivo Tomate. Either as a tourist or a volunteer, don’t miss the opportunity of being a part of this great project.

[photos courtesy of Vica Amuchastegui]

The Magi were foreigners from the east who followed a star to the place where Jesus was born to bring him gifts (gold, incense and myrrh). Though nowhere says how many of them were, how old were they or even if they were kings, the Catholic Church stablished, based on the numer of gifts, that they were three. The idea of them being Kings comes from the Bible, where it said that the Messiah was worshipped by Kings, and the representation of an old, an adult and a young man was born around the 15th Century, when the artists depict them as three men of different ages as a way to express that people of all ages, races and religions came to worshipped Jesus.

Three Wise Men Street Decoration

Anyway, that’s just a short explanation of why we have Three Wise Men and why is their visitation celebrated. This is a tradition that’s celebrated differently in every country, but since México was an Spanish Colony in America, this tradition is celebrated here the Spanish way. The celebration begins a few days before, when the kids send letter to the Magi asking for gifts. These letters can be sent by mail, attached to a ballon or by e-mail. (Hey, why not? This is the XXI Century!).

On the night before, they leave their shoe next to the christmas tree (in spain, they leave it next to a window) and leave food and water for the animals as well as wine for the Magi. The next morning the kids find next to their shoe a gift, unless they were naughty, in that case they’ll find a piece of coal. They also wake up to find that the wine is gone, and the animals have eaten -and some times, like they used to do in my house, have spilled- their food.

Rosca de Reyes' Doll

It’s also a tradition to have Rosca de Reyes (I think it’s safe to translate it to King’s Cake, though it really doesn’t have a translation) with the family and friends. This is an oval ring-shaped kind of cake with dried and candied fruits on top. In Spain is called Roscon de Reyes and has a more rounded shape. But in Mexico we gave it a more indigenous touch, we have it with hot chocolate and we hide inside the Rosca one plastic (it used to be ceramic) Baby Jesus that’s both a blessing and a punishment. The person who finds will be blessed the whole year and will have good luck, but will also be in charge of the Candelaria celebration on February 2nd, and will have to cook the Tamales and Atole. The Candelaria Day is the celebration of the Presentation of Jesus at the temple, is the day the Nativity Scene is put away and the Christmas celebrations are over.

So, what will you ask for this Dia de Reyes? Have you written your letter yet?

[photos courtesy of zerethv, Belis@rio and El mundo de Laura/Flickr]

The Popo is a very important part of the city of Puebla, as well as the Iztaccihuatl, “Izta” for short, a non-active volcano connected to the Popo by a high pass called Paso de Cortés. They are the second and third highest peaks in Mexico, only after the Pico de Orizaba in Veracruz, visible from the city on cloudless days. The forth tallest peak, the Malinche, is also visible everyday from Puebla.

Iztaccihuatl - the Sleeping Woman

With the so many volcanos so close to Puebla, we’ve been blessed with some of the best views in México. The tall smoking Popo and the long woman-shaped Izta can be seen every morning. But those days, when the four peaks can be seen, are my favorites.

Anyways, I think that’s enough facts and history, now we’ve come to the fun part of the volcanos: their legend. This is a tale close to my heart, since is the story my grandmother used to tell me every year while we drove from Puebla to Mexico City to spend the summer vacations there. I’ll do my best to tell it as my she used to.

Many years ago the Aztecs dominated the valley and all the others cities and towns had to pay tribute to them. Eventually, the Cacique (chief) of Tlaxcala got tired of the domination and began a long war with the Aztecs. His daughter, the princess Iztaccihuatl, fell in love with a warrior, Popocatepetl, who asked for her hand. The Cacique said he could marry her only if he returned victorious from war, so he gathered an army and left for war so he could marry his princess.

But being the daughter of the Cacique there were a lot of suitors unhappy about her engagement to a warrior. One of them, Citlaltepetl, told her that Popocatepetl had died in combat. Iztaccihuatl cried the death of her lover until her heart gave out and died of sadness. When Popocatepetl returned a hero from war he heard about the death of her princess and decided he wouldn’t leave her again, ever.

The Popo next to the Izta

He built an enormous tomb and carry her lifeless body to the top. He kissed her one last time and sat, with a smoking torch, to watch over her. Dust, dirt and snow covered their bodies until they became volcanos. They’ve been together ever since, and from time to time, Popocacatepetl’s heart aches and tremble, and the torch’s fire is revived and smoky again.

The jealous Citlaltepetl was vanished and became another volcano, the Pico de Orizaba -whose ancient name was Citlaltepetl-. His punishment was to forever witness the everlasting love of Popocatepetl and Iztaccihuatl.

Pico de Orizaba - Citlaltepetl

That’s why the Popo has been forever active and emitting fumaroles, why the Izta is shaped like a sleeping woman, why they’re so close to each other, and why the Pico de Orizaba once in a while pops out to have a quick glance.

The names of the volcanos are in nahuatl. Popocatepetl means “smoking hill”, Iztaccihuatl means “white woman” -though now is known as “sleeping woman”- and Citlaltepetl means “hill of the star”.

[photos courtesy of RussBowling, micoletán(María), Sergio Kasusky and pacomexico/Flickr]