Photo by BHarrison

Semana Santa, also known as Holy Week, is one of the most popular holidays in Mexico, second perhaps only to Christmas in terms of reverance and participation. For 2011, Semana Santa falls between April 17th and April 24th, however the children get two weeks off from school, so you can expect Puerto Vallarta to be busy the week after Easter too.

The week of Easter is marked with colorful processions, family gatherings and lots of religious ceremony. April 17th is Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos) and the vendors outside of the church sell woven palm fronds for the priest to bless. On April 23, Mexico celebrates Sábado de Gloria (Holy Saturday), marking the day Christ was in the tomb. April 24th is Domingo de Pascua (Easter Sunday), celebrating the Resurrection of Christ. There are special masses held Thursday-Sunday.

While the week of Easter and the week after hold a special religious significance for the mostly Catholic population of Mexico, not everyone in Puerto Vallarta is there to pray. It’s estimated that during Semana Santa and at Christmas, one out of every 5 Mexicans heads for the beach for vacation. That means more than 20 million Mexican tourists hit the beaches throughout the country and guess where one of the most popular places to go is…Puerto Vallarta!

If you plan on traveling in or around Puerto Vallarta during Holy Week, first you should have made reservations well in advance because nearly every hotel (certainly every affordable hotel) will be booked. The rates also generally triple during this time. Second, I hope you’re not driving anywhere. The traffic is horrible, especially taking into consideration the maze of one-way streets and poor signage in Puerto Vallarta. Add a bunch of out-of-town drivers and you’ve got gridlock and accidents galore.

That’s not the only downside to Semana Santa. The influx of tourists to the beach means that there will be one heck of a party wherever you go, as families camp or spend the entire day at the beach, listening to music, eating and enjoying each other’s company. Of course, the flip side to this is that the beaches are packed with revelers all day; noisy revelers who frequently leave piles of garbage and bottles behind. Like Spring Break nearly anywhere in the world, you can expect loud music, drunk people everywhere (Mexicans, Americans, Canadians and even a few Europeans thrown in for good measure),and  trash and urine in the streets. Of course, it’s not all bad…

On the plus side, the beach is one giant party. If you like that atmosphere, you’ll probably make a dozen new friends or so on any one trip to the water. There’s great music and dancing too. There are celebrations everywhere the week after Easter as Catholics are released from Lent and turn to party-mode. Great food, live music and fireworks will be found all over town, including the Romantic Zone and the Malecon.

If you’re looking for a quiet vacation to a charming seaside town, this is not the time for you. If you want dancing all night and partying all day, you will love Puerto Vallarta during Semana Santa. Just be respectful of your Mexican hosts. This is still a holy time for many families and however tempting it is to take photographs or pop into the church to view the beautiful mass, make sure that you are dressed appropriately (no bathing suits in church, people!), don’t interrupt service and ask permission before taking photos of people you don’t know, especially children.

The final R.I.S.E. and Shine brunch will feature gourmet brunch selections prepared by chef Seth Cloutman, including freshly baked pastries, frittatas, quiches and Eggs Benedict. Live entertainment including a performance by some of the children from R.I.S.E will entertain guests.
Tickets are available for two separate seatings, one at 10:30am and one at 12:30pm. They cost $350 pesos. Advance purchase is required and seats are limited. You can purchase them at Daiquiri Dick’s, or by contacting Seth at seth@foodbyseth.com or Chris Amo at keithamo@msn.com. A shuttle will take attendees from the parking lot just south beside the Hotel Barceló to Casa Valerie.

R.I.S.E – The Refugio Infantil Santa Esperanza is a non-profit shelter for babies and children under the age of 14. Some of these children are orphans but most come from unbearable situations having been abused, neglected, or simply abandoned. R.I.S.E. is a Mexican non-profit charitable organization, which accepts donations through a number of charitable organizations. More information about tax deductible donations can be found at their website: Refugio-Infantil.org.

Photo Courtesy of Splurge Gallery

If you’re looking for something to do on Earth Day, check out the Splurge gallery opening on April 22, from 5pm to 10pm. On display will be a series of marine photographs from prominent Mexican and American photographers. The opening includes a cocktail reception and door prizes. Proceeds of this special event will be used to raise awareness of the environmental impact felt in the Bay of Banderas from development and pollution.

The event was chosen to highlight Earth Day, an event that marks the anniversary of what many consider the birth of the modern environmental movement in the United States. It was started in the 1970s as a grassroots movement and the day is now celebrated in more than 175 countries.

Banderas Bay houses tremendously diverse sea-life, including many endangered and rare species. Photographs of the most beautiful and unique creatures found in the Bay of Banderas (Riviera Nayarit) will be on display and for sale.

If you can’t make the opening, don’t despair. You can pick up copies of the prints from April 22 until World Ocean Day on June 8th.

Splurge Gallery is located at Lazaro Cardenas 60, Bucerias, Nayarit. Bucerias is approximately 20 minutes north of Puerto Vallarta on Hwy 200.

Hacienda Jalisco - photo courtesy of Robin Noelle

Many people like to make the day trip to the petite colonial town of San Sebastian, located in the mountains to the east of Puerto Vallarta. Unless there’s a festival schedule, there’s not much to do in this quiet hamlet but it’s a great place to go for some relaxation and to learn some of the local history. There are a lot of little towns nearby and on the way that you can stop in and explore a little if you’re fortunate to be driving yourself.

If you have the time, I recommend at least staying overnight so that you can really check out the area. There’s some wonderful photo opportunities and scenic vistas on the drive. If you do plan on staying the night, I highly recommend booking a room at Hacienda Jalisco, an old Hacienda from the times when San Sebastian was a vibrant mining town.

Indeed, San Sebastian used to be as bustling and wealthy as any major metropolis in Mexico, with almost 30,000 residents. The Spanish took over the mining operations and the town grew fat on profits from precious metals and gems, but when the mines closed, the people left for other places and now the town holds a mere 1,000 residents.

The only time the town is busy is when the tour buses from Puerto Vallarta bring up the tourists for a day trip. By mid-afternoon, the town is almost deserted again and it’s a perfect time for strolling the quaint streets and poking your head into little shops to buy some locally made jam or candy.

Hacienda Jalisco, an original Hacienda, retains the authentic charm from days long past. From the moment you pass through the gates and cross the bridge to the Hacienda, you will feel as though you’ve been transported back in time. The sturdy building with great wooden shutters sits amid orchards of fruit trees and large gardens that supply much of the food for the hotel. The downstairs is a museum which is well worth a look even if you can’t spend the night. There are documents from the mining operation, including ledgers of payments to workers and accountings of the riches being sent back to Spain.

In other rooms you’ll find more recent history, much of it Hollywood related, as the Hacienda was a favorite of celebrities who came to spend time with the previous owner, who himself came from a Hollywood family. You’ll read personal correspondence from movie stars and dignitaries and see photos from Vallarta’s initial heyday when the Night of the Iguana was being filmed.

The rooms are spacious, with three suites on the upper floors, all containing great fireplaces for warmth during the cool winter months. There is no electricity in the building, just oil lamps for light but there is hot water in the modern bathrooms. The rooms are decorated with antiques and mementos, many found on site from the Hacienda’s previous incarnation as mining headquarters.

Dinner and breakfast are served family style in the courtyard below and in the evenings, guests sit around the central bonfire sharing stories and visiting. It’s a homey, friendly kind of place and perfect for a romantic getaway or just for those seeking a little peace and quiet. In the morning, manager Joe Thompson takes guests on a tour of the grounds and shares some of the history of the area and the Hacienda. By the time you need to leave, you’ll be wishing for just a couple more nights of rustic solitude in the mountains.

Hacienda Jalisco — $80-90 includes breakfast and dinner

www.HaciendaJalisco.com

Reservations through Pam Thompson: tel. 322/222-9638 or 322/107-7007

Mariachi frequent beach restaurants, playing songs for a fee -- Photo by Robin Noelle

While Puerto Vallarta has many fine dining restaurants to choose from, you’ll probably (hopefully) enjoy some casual beach dining as well. Unlike restaurants in the US and Canada, you’ll find dining in Mexico to be a more interactive experience.

It’s near impossible to dine on the beach without drawing the attention of beach vendors. These hard working men, women and yes, children, roam the beaches in the steamy Vallarta heat, often lugging around many pounds of blankets, pareos, and trinkets for tourists to buy. This is frequently the sole income for the family. While some tourists enjoy shopping while they eat (or are waiting to eat), others do not.

It’s not necessary to be curt or nasty to these salespeople. Instead decline with a polite “no, gracias” and shake of the head. You can usually head them off before they reach your table with a firm head shake or raised palm. Still, some vendors can be overly persistent in their desire to make a sale. In this case, again there’s no need to be rude. Instead, flag down your waiter or the restaurant manager and let him know that you would prefer not to be bothered. They will usually make it clear to the vendors to give you some space.

It’s hard to resist a grimy-faced little moppet at your table trying to sell you Chiclets or bobble-head turtles, but beware! Once you make a purchase, you’ve signaled that you’re a buyer. Prepare to hold party to a host of people eager to show off their jewelry and braiding skills. Mariachi musicians also roam the beaches to play music for diners. If you don’t wish to hear a song, decline before they start to play. If you want the performance, ask how much for a song. It’s usually around $50 pesos (about $5 US).

Another beach restaurant feature are pets. Some people bring dogs with them to dine at the beach while other dogs may be strays or local neighborhood dogs. While some people naturally enjoy the company of four-legged companions, others cringe at the idea of dogs roaming through the tables while they eat. Usually these dogs will wander off if ignored but if they really bother you, again, ask your waiter to help keep Fluffy in check. Also, check the restaurant policy before bringing your own pooch.

Mexican restaurants aren’t typically known for their speedy service, but that’s how they do it down there. In Mexico, meals are a time to enjoy each other’s company and visit with the family. Keep this in mind when you’re figuring out the tip. While the service may not have been up to typical American standards, that’s no reason not to tip. Instead remember that the people serving you make a terrible wage by anyone’s standards and often travel an hour or more to get to work each day on the bus. They may be supporting their entire family with their wage. A few pesos hardly makes a difference to most tourists but it could mean a tremendous amount to your server. Be generous unless the service and food were truly terrible.

Many beach restaurants are very inexpensive. When your bill comes to just a few dollars for a hearty lunch and a beer, go ahead and tip more than 20%. Leaving 10-20 pesos (somewhere between .50-1.50) is a nice gesture and will probably earn you a warm-hearted gracias, amigo! when you leave.

A celebration of Mexican history and traditions, this exciting and colorful performance will explore music and rhythms from around Mexico. The second act will feature beloved Mariachi music, the traditional music of the state of Jalisco, where Puerto Vallarta is located.

The performance takes place on Saturday, April 9, at 8:00 pm, in Vallarta’s beautiful performing arts venue, Teatro Vallarta.   Tickets are $100 Pesos for general seating and $150 Pesos for VIP seating.   Tickets are available at Vallarta Fitness in Plaza Galerias, at Plaza Caracol and at the theatre’s box office Tuesday through Saturday from 11 am to 9 pm.  Teatro Vallarta is located in El Centro at Uruguay 184, just south of LEY’S grocery store on the main street as you enter downtown.

St. Patrick's Day party at The Shamrock Pub in Bucerias

You might not think that St. Patrick’s Day would get much recognition in Mexico, but you’d be wrong. The Irish are quite important to the history of Mexico and they receive two celebrations. The first is on September 12th, the day that many Irish were executed for treason after defecting from the US Army to fight alongside Mexicans during the US-Mexico war from 1846-1848. These defectors formed the St Patrick’s (or San Patricios in Spanish) Battalion and fought for Mexico during most major campaigns. Led by Captain John Riley of County Galway, the battalion was known for its bravery. They even have a plaque dedicated to them in Mexico City. The second celebration of the San Patricios falls on St. Patrick’s Day, March 17th.

Unlike many Americans, most Mexicans know a great deal about the history of their country and the Irish are quite a revered people throughout Mexico. If you’re visiting Puerto Vallarta during St Patrick’s Day and want to celebrate the Irish, you can find plenty of restaurants offering traditional corned beef and cabbage dinners (even though they don’t eat that in Ireland).

Here’s where to find some of them:

Coco Tropical – Corner of Olas Altas and Basilio Badillo, on beach: Three-course dinner with live music, $355 pesos.

La Tia Catrina – Basilio Badillo #418: Traditional dinner, $250 pesos.

epoca – Aquiles Serdan #174: 3 courses, reservations required, $250 pesos.

Que Pasa – Aquiles Serdan #625: Starting at 2pm, corned beef and cabbage for $190 pesos.

The Shamrock – Bucerias: All day St. Patrick’s festival at this Irish pub with live Irish music, an Irish DJ and lots of fun stuff for kids.

Know of any others? Leave them in the comments!

Enjoy your purified ice! Photo by Robin Noelle

“Don’t drink the water,” is probably the most over-used piece of travel advice tourists get when telling people that they’re traveling to Mexico. The truth is that sanitation and water purification have come a long way in Mexico’s tourism hot spots. Restaurants cook with and serve purified water to their guests and if ice is available, it’s also been purified. You don’t need to worry  about the glass of water at your table or about asking for ice for your soda.

Same is true of water at the large hotels. While it’s still advisable to drink bottled water for refreshment and hydration, you can brush your teeth, wash your face and shower without worrying that a droplet of water in your mouth will leave you huddling near your hotel bathroom for the rest of your trip.

As a long time resident of Puerto Vallarta and frequent traveler throughout Mexico, I’ve never been sick. Not even once. Not even after eating highly questionable things from sketchy street vendors. Still, it pays to be careful. Here are some things you can do to help protect yourself from the discomfort of Montezuma’s Revenge:

1. Wash your hands. Wash your hands before you eat without fail. If you do not have access to a sink and soap, make sure you use hand sanitizer. After you eat, wash them again. Wash them after picking through trinkets at the market; wash them after you get out of the cab. Keep washing and keep your fingers out of your mouth.
2. Be vigilant. If you’ve got a hankering for tacos al pastor from a street vendor, indulge! Just make sure that the vendor is using good food handling techniques, such as hand washing and not touching money and then food. Many vendors will use plastic bags or gloves when handling money so as not to contaminate their hands. Look for busy and clean stalls, stands and restaurants.
3. Before you eat it, wash it. Wash fruits and vegetables, even ones that you peel, before you prepare or eat them. Wipe off the tops of soda cans before drinking from them. Citrus is a natural disinfectant, so use limes to wipe rims of bottles and cans. (I bet you were wondering why Mexican beer usually includes a lime, weren’t you?)
4. Keep it cold. The weather is hot and humid much of the year in Mexico and food spoils more quickly there. Don’t leave meat, cheese or other perishables out for long.
5. Service your water tank. If you’re renting a house for the season in Puerto Vallarta or decide to stay longer, ask when the last time the water tank was serviced at your rental. Most Mexican homes have water tanks on the roof which should be serviced every 6 months, although many are never cleaned (and thus can contain bacteria and algae).

These steps won’t guarantee a trouble-free trip; after all, some people just have sensitive digestive systems, but they will go a long ways towards preventing avoidable problems!

Burrito Roblado at Tacon de Marlin

When arriving in Puerto Vallarta, in almost all cases, you should take the pedestrian footbridge across Hwy 200 to the cab stand (because these cabs are cheaper than those in front of the airport), conveniently located in front of the burrito stand, Tacon de Marlin.

If you don’t stop here on your way in or out of town, you’re really missing out on one of the best burritos in Puerto Vallarta. The airport location is the original but Tacon de Marlin has been successful enough to now have two additional locations in PV. One is a bit out of the way for most tourists but there’s another downtown on the corner of Honduras and Peru streets, just across from the big Pemex gas station as you head towards the Malecon.

The specialty of the house are burritos jam-packed with all manner of seafood, from shrimp to octopus. As the name of the stand suggests, marlin is a popular choice. The burritos are massive and cheap, usually around $5 dollars. They don’t come with sides and they don’t need to. You can easily share one with a friend if you have a lighter appetite.  Of course, after you taste them, you may change your mind about sharing…

Pictured here is my personal favorite, the Burrito Roblado con Camaron. That is, a smoked marlin burrito with shrimp. Did I mention that the shrimp are wrapped in bacon? Or that the whole interior is smothered in this delightful spicy creamy sauce that can only be made with something wildly addicting, like lard or crack? Well, it is. If you like seafood, you shouldn’t miss the opportunity to try one. The airport location makes it a great place to stop and have a final taste of Mexico before your flight home.

Tacon de Marlin is hands-down one of my “don’t miss” picks for dining in Puerto Vallarta.

Interns help monitor animals during sterilization clinics.

Looking for something to do this summer? PEACE is one of the largest and most active non-profit groups in the Puerto Vallarta area, performing all types of community work. They have two summer internships programs available, one for teaching and assisting with the summer camp program and the other for assisting with their popular Help the Animals spay and neuter clinics. The application deadline for either program is April 15th.

The programs run for 5 weeks and costs $2000 US, although there are some limited scholarships available for those in need. The fees cover housing (double occupancy in a hotel or private home), evening and weekend excursions and 12 hours per week of language lessons. Transportation, food and other costs are not included.

Those participating in the Animal Clinic internship spend the first four weeks assisting with the clinic set-up, doing community education and assisting with the clinic operation. This may include surgery prep, physical exams, animal transportation and patient registration. Having personally worked at these clinics, I can attest that it’s truly a unique and rewarding experience! During the 5th week, interns will have a chance to work on other community projects.

For those interested in the summer camp program, the cost is the same but the work focuses on teaching elementary or middle school students how to add value to their community through entrepreneurial projects. Skills emphasized include English, marketing, fundraising, accounting, computer skills and effective management practices. Interns will learn Spanish and get hands-on and classroom training in presentation skills, critical thinking, conflict management and leadership.

Whichever you choose, a PEACE internship would look great on your resume and is a great way to see the real Mexico!