Santa Teresa’s Hidden Charms

Things to Do, Travel Tips, What's New — By Lucy Bryson on June 14, 2010 at 2:28 am

It may not boast golden sands or bronzed Brazilian beauties in teeny weeny bikinis, but Santa Teresa is one Rio neighborhood that really merits a day away from the beaches.

A picturesque hillside enclave of crumbling colonial mansions, steep cobbled streets and laidback drinking and dining spots, Santa Teresa is beloved by artists, musicians, writers and other bohemian types.

Art lovers will be right at home here – countless artists have set up shop in the handsome historic buildings; and the annual Arte de Portas Abertas festival is arguably the most important visual arts event on Rio’s cultural calendar.
But while this most bucolic of bairros is now firmly established on Rio’s tourist trails, there are plenty of corners that remain largely undiscovered by the tourist hordes.

To start with, most tourists jump off Santa Teresa’s rattling yellow tram at Largo do Guimaraes, the neighbourhood’s liveliest square, it’s well worth continuing the rattling ride a little further.

Two tramlines pass through Santa Teresa, both of which pass through Largo do Guimaraes, with its surrounding cluster of busy shops, bars, and restaurants.
Stay on board the Dois Irmaos line a few minutes longer, and you’ll wind your way past a beautiful little white castle (today a guest house and apartments), before reaching Bar do Bonde – one of Santa Teresa’s best kept secrets.

This dinky little bar boasts tasty, well-priced Arab snacks, a great range of affordable drinks, and friendly service. There are comfy sofas (and internet access) upstairs, a handful of outdoor tables and chairs downstairs, and occasional live music performances at weekends.

Passengers taking the other line, to Paulo Mattos, would be wise to stay on board until the end of the ride. The tram rattles to a stop at Largo das Neves, a quaint little square surrounded by relaxed little cafe bars.
Tourists are very much in the minority here, and on weekend evenings the square throngs with locals of all ages. Don’t miss the delicious fruit cocktails sold by Jorjinho, who sets up stall here from Thursday through Saturday, or the tasty grilled meats sold at various makeshift barbeques.

If the drinks have you in the mood for something a little livelier, it’s just a 15 minute walk downhill to the bars and nightclubs of Lapa.
Photo: Arte de Portas Abertas, courtesy of Lucy Bryson.