Get Out: This Weekend’s Festivals in Lazio

contributed by Mary Jane Cryan of www.elegantetruria.com

With the arrival of the first hot days of summer, do as the Romans do and head out of the city to one of the festivals where costumed processions, flower decorated streets and local country cooking provide lively and realistic time machine experiences. Two of the best June festivals near Rome take place in the towns of Nepi and Vetralla, northeast of Rome and are easily reachable by bus or train from Rome (See timetables on for Cotral and Treni Italia).

The Palio del Saracino festival in Nepi (45 km north of Rome) is a nine-day medieval celebration and reenactment of the infamous Lucrezia Borgia’s 1499 acquisition of the Borgia Fortress. The happenings come to a climax on Sunday 13th from 5 to 7 p.m. when flag throwers perform in the Borgia Fortress and knights in medieval armor work batter rams and compete in archery contests.  Neighborhoods fly colorful and historic flags and residents dress in medieval garb.  Visit the website for photos and program of the events.  To complete an authentic Laziale experience, open air tavernas offer food but look for Casa Tuscia, a homegrown restaurant just outside the massive town walls.

For the past 17 years the town of Vetralla, 65 km northeast of Rome and 60 km inland from Civitavecchia port, has been celebrating the beginning of summer with the Fiori in Finestra, Cene in Cantina (Flowers in the window, dinner in the cantina) festival. Held on the mid-June weekends (June 12-13, and 19-20 ), Vetralla fills with an abundance of happenings to please young and old: parades, magicians, music, tiny shops full of minor antiques and local handicrafts.   Traveling with children? Sunday June 13th and Saturday June 19th, Opera Extravaganza organizes the children’s afternoon menu– entertainment specifically designed for children.

The main focus of Vetralla’s weekend double-header is the cantina celebration:  eight ancient, cool cantinas beneath the town’s historic palaces are opened and place with  long communal tables for weekend lunch and dinner.  Vetralla’s best cooks compete to produce tasty four-course menus with flavors of the past.   Menus, written in local dialect, are a compendium of traditional dishes including truffles, pork, hand-made pasta,  Vetralla’s excellent extra virgin olive oil and all washed down with abundant local wine. For groups larger than 6, booking ahead is strongly advised.   Interesting note:  all profits benefit town volunteer associations.

For more information about getting out of Rome and into Lazio, visit Mary Jane’s website:  www.elegantetruria.com