Photo by Lorraine Seal
Descending from Mönchsberg via the funicular, return to Kapitelplatz and turn immediately left. Through a tiny square you’ll pass the rushing mill course outside the old Benedictine bakery.
In a few steps you’ll enter the gates of picturesque St Peter’s Cemetery. Its appearance is virtually unchanged since 1627. This tranquil spot is a pleasant place to wander throughout the year, in any season. Overhead, carved into the flanks of Mönchsberg, notice the ancient catacombs, relics of the first monastery in Salzburg.
After looking at the grave markers, tombs, bas relief monuments set into the church wall and flowers, pass through the gates to the left of the church and enter the pretty courtyard in front of St Peter’s Benedictine church. The church, originally Romanesque but renovated in late Baroque style in the 17th century, bears a tour, however brief.
From the courtyard in front of St Peter’s, pass through the covered passage to the north. Coming out of a short street facing the apse of the Franciscan church, turn left, then right to pass in front of its porch entrance. Continue along this narrow street with shops on the left and University of Salzburg buildings on the right. A hundred metres or so on, you’ll come into another square with an arch on your left. Turn right, in the direction of Residenzplatz, and continue until you reach the distinctive green-and-white striped awnings or umbrellas (depending on the season) of Café Tomaselli, Salzburg’s oldest coffee house.
Turning left, you’ll enter Altermarkt, a long and moderately wide platz lined with shops, some of them upscale. On your right, note the ancient apothecary, Alte Furst-erzbischofliche Hofapotheke, Salzburg’s oldest pharmacy. At the bottom of the platz, turn left into colourful Geitreidegasse. It bustles with visitors year round, particularly in the summer. Note the painted and gilded wrought iron shop and business signs hanging overhead as well as the brilliant window displays. Number 9 is the Mozart Geburtshaus, where the composer was born.
Before the end of Geitreidegasse, turn right into the courtyard of the Sternbräu and continue through the passage way at the bottom. You will come out onto Griesgasse; turn right and continue to the lights across from the bus stop. Cross there, toward the river. Bear slightly left and cross Makartsteg, the pedestrian bridge over the Salzach.
On the other side, continue straight ahead on the short street, at the west end of the Hotel Sacher. Continuing straight along, cross at the traffic lights and bear slightly to the left, to the bottom of Marktplatz. Passing the entrance to the Landestheater, turn left and enter Mirabellgarten.
Mirabellgarten is adjacent to Schloss Mirabell, which is mostly closed to the public, However, the garden offers wonderful views of the Festung seen over the domes of the Dom across the river and lovely gardens to wander. At the opposite end from where you’ve entered is the Pegasus statue and the steps recognisable to fans of The Sound of Music. Opposite the Pegasus statue are steps leading to the dwarf garden, a peaceful corner with whimsical grotesque statues.
Exiting the gardens from the steps beyond the Pegasus statue, turn right and follow the path to the street. At Bellini’s Italian Bar, turn right again. On your left will be St Andrea church, on your right, the façade of Schloss Mirabell and gates into the garden. Continue straight; you’ll enter an arcade then pass along the top of Marktplatz. On the far side are the red-and-white banners that flutter alongside the entrance to Mozart’s residence. Continuing on, pass the façade of Holy Trinity church and then enter a small shop-lined street.
After a couple of hundred metres, this opens out into the top of Platzl, the smallest of Salzburg’s many squares. Opposite is Number 3, the one-time residence of Paracelsus, a 16th physician and scholar.
Turning left will take you along Linzergasse, with many shops, cafes and restaurants. Or explore narrow, medieval Steingasse, reached from an entrance on Platzl. Here you’ll find wine bars and small cafes. When you’re finished exploring, exit Platzl and, crossing with the foot traffic at the lights, cross the Stadtbrücke to the other side of the river.