Seville http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville Fri, 16 Jul 2010 21:01:51 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 124 Seville 465 Can You Tapas This? http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/05/18/can-you-tapas-this/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/05/18/can-you-tapas-this/#comments Tue, 18 May 2010 21:14:06 +0000 lindseyashjian http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/?p=60 If you don’t think of tapas when you think of Spain, perhaps you’ve had a little too much sangria (or maybe not enough)! While the majority of Spain enjoys tapas as part of their daily lives, no one treats them like an art form like they do here in Andalusia. Every province does it differently, but one thing remains the same: they can’t be tapa’d!!

As the story goes, tapas (Spanish for “lid” or “top”) came to be when rustic Andalusians began placing a small piece of bread or thin slice of meat over their glasses to keep fruit flies from lingering around the sweet sherry, during a mid-day getaway in a burrowing tavern, out of the hot Andalusian sun.

Variations of the legend have evolved and so have the dishes!  Here’s a quick beginners guide to what your mouth will soon be thanking you for:

Queso Viejo or Manchego: The most common and tastiest of all Spanish cheeses, slices submerged in olive oil will find their way onto a slice of piping hot bread.

Berenjenas con Miel: The Spanish love their eggplant and this dish is a true testament as to why.  Pieces are deep fried then drizzled with a thick, molasses-like honey.  One word: wow.

Jamon Serrano: Ham. They have museums dedicated to it. One taste and you’ll know why. Silky smooth jamon serrano is dry-cured and served raw in paper thin slices.  The flavor is hearthy and the texture is intoxicating. My sashimi cravings have long-since subsided and been replaced by yearnings for Spanish mountain ham!

Jamon Serrano

Jamon Iberico: This fancy pants cousin of jamon serrano is pricier for a reason. These black pigs are treated to a diet consisting purely of acorns.

Flemenquin: Before fairs all over the U.S. began deep frying everything in sight, this Andalusian wonder was born. Pork wrapped in ham and cheese, deep fried and topped with a dollop of garlicky mayo tastes as good as its sounds like a heart attack!  Usually served with fried potatoes.  Obviously.

Flemenquin and Pinchos Morunos

Pinchos Morunos: Moroccan spiced and speared chicken or pork. Enough said.

Boquerones: White anchovies, marinated in vinegar, then battered and fried. Sprinkle on some lemon and eat each in one fell swoop!  Beware the little bones, but you’ll soon master the boqueron bite!

Morcilla: This one’s for us adventurous types, but the payoff is worth it!  Spanish blood sausage stuffed with rice, onions and spices. A sassy alternative to chorizo.

Morcilla and Chorizo

Patatas Bravas: Nuggets of crispy, roasted potatoes smothered in a spicy tomato sauce.  The Spanish definition of spicy differs a bit from that of say, Mexico, so you are considered “brave” if you can handle Brava sauce!  Note: if you are a spice-aholic like myself, you’ll be left wondering what the fuss is all about. If the Brava heat makes me brave, then I guess I am Wonderwoman.

Patatas Aliolli: Roasted potato chunks dressed in garlicky mayo… yum!

Bacalao: This salt-cured codfish is too much to handle on it’s own, but slap a sliver on some fresh bread, add a slice of tomato and drizzle on a little bit of olive oil.  You’ll feel like a local in no time.

Ensalada Rusa: The typical Spanish “Russian salad” includes potatoes, peas, carrots, onions, tuna and plenty of mayo!  Served chilled, it’s perfect on a summer Andalusian day.

Patatas a lo Pobre:  ”Poorman’s potatoes” consist of throwing in whatever you have lying around… which in Spain is usually onions, red and green peppers, chorizo and some fried eggs on top. Eating this dish will make you feel like the richest man in the world.

Bandarillas: Calling all pickle lovers!!  If spice, crunch and all around amazingness is your thing, pick up abandarilla or 10. Each toothpick contains one bite-sized morsel each of pickles, red peppers, spicy peppers, pickled cocktail onions and the jewel or Andalusia: the olive. Slide it all into your mouth at once and enjoy the explosion of fresh, crisp flavors!

Caracoles: Snails, people!!  But if you can get past that, really, they’re quite delicious, taking on the taste of whatever savory sauce they are simmering in.  Whether it’s as simple as olive oil and garlic or more of a hearty tomato concoction, give ‘em a try.

¡Buen provecho!

[Jamon Serrano photo provided by Scaredy Kat]

]]>
http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/05/18/can-you-tapas-this/feed/ 1 1
All Along the Alameda http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/05/03/all-along-the-alameda/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/05/03/all-along-the-alameda/#comments Mon, 03 May 2010 00:11:40 +0000 lindseyashjian http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/?p=41 Wafts of citrusy orange blossoms, coolish breezes dancing on your skin and bright sunshine lighting the path to fun… spring has sprung and where better to enjoy it than surrounded by the Spanish charm of Seville?  The streets are alive and the best seat in the house is on La Alameda de Hercules.

Nighttime at La Alameda

La Alameda used to be the stage for Seville’s shadiest characters, but this outdoor esplanade has long since reinvented itself as THE destination for its bohemian crowd.  You don’t have to be a free spirit to enjoy the life and liveliness of La Alameda… just an appreciation for the little things: fantastic food, refreshing beverages, live music, chatty company and ambiance galore!

For the best of: start your night off with tapas at Las Columnas. This low-key spot is a central meeting point and offers some of the most affordable and yummiest tapas in town!  Wash it all down with Spain’s alternative summer wine, a tinto de verano (red wine with a splash of lemon Fanta over ice).  A colorful international roster is certain to entertain while breathing in the fresh night air.

Head to Bar Ego to pick up the beat a bit. An eclectic mix of DJ bar, art gallery, restaurant and clothing shop, Ego offers a hipper choice to the traditionally routine Sevillian nightlife.

To fully appreciate what La Alameda is about, finish your night joining the botellon with the locals. A typical botellon includes a big bottle of anything you want to drink! Staples include beer, or rum and vodka with all the fixin’s — mixers, cups and ice. There is a science to the botellon, but it’s like riding a bike. Learn it once and it’s engrained in your memory for life!

Salud!

Cocktail on La Alameda

[Nighttime at La Alameda photos provided by Rafael Tovar]

[Alameda de Hercules photo provided by Tom Raferty]

[Cocktails on La Alameda photo provided by Guabic]

]]>
http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/05/03/all-along-the-alameda/feed/ 1 1
The Feria-est of Them All http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/04/06/the-feria-est-of-them-all/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/04/06/the-feria-est-of-them-all/#comments Tue, 06 Apr 2010 13:38:42 +0000 lindseyashjian http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/?p=24 Well, Semana Santa is over, but the memories of a truly one-of-a-kind experience will remain forever. Never have I experienced something of such tradition with people as passionate as the Spanish. Standing on a dark street at 4am with no light but glimmering candles illuminating the path for hundreds of robed men as they carried massive gold-drenched structures of bible scenes, just as they’ve done for hundreds of years, among crowds of proud Spaniards cheering loudly over processional drum beats… it was certainly one of those moments that will never escape me.

Procession - El Abuelo

Procession - El Abuelo

One would think that after an event-filled week, the Sevillians would be looking forward to a little R & R. Well, you are correct. However, rest and relaxation in Spain is much different than the standard definition! It’s SPAIN, after all… land of the perpetual celebration of life! So as the sun sets on Semana Santa, a new light shines upon the next big regional tradition: Feria de Abril.

Traditional Costumes in front of one of many "casetas"

For as much as Semana Santa is a religious festival, Feria is not!!  Semi-similar to what the U.S. recognizes as a state or county fair, leave it up to the Spaniards to take it to the next level!  Kicking off on April 20 (officially; April 17, unofficially… they just can’t wait to get started!) hundreds of casetas (tents) are set up for one week’s worth of ’round the clock tapas eating; sherry, wine and beer drinking; Sevillanas dancing, game playing; attraction riding; traditional flamenco costume wearing; bull fighting; friendly socializing and all around merry-making good times.

Here in Andalusia, THIS is how rest and relaxation is done, and no one does it bigger or better than Seville.  I’m not sure how the rest part works out considering the party never stops, but Feria surely relaxes you. Whether it’s the influx of sedating refreshments or the fact that you may find yourself given the day off of work to enjoy the festivities is yet to be determined, but you certainly won’t find any complaints here in the meantime :)

Feria Treats & Trinkets

Stay tuned for more fun Feria facts and folk tales as we lead up to the main event!

[Procession - El Abuelo photo provided by Lindsey Ashjian]

[Traditional costumes photo provided by Wikimedia Commons]

[Feria Treats & Trinkets photos provided by clspeace]

]]>
http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/04/06/the-feria-est-of-them-all/feed/ 0 1
When the Saints go Marching in… to Seville http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/03/30/when-the-saints-go-marching-in/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/03/30/when-the-saints-go-marching-in/#comments Tue, 30 Mar 2010 16:32:32 +0000 lindseyashjian http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/?p=4 Andalusia, the southern region of Spain, is both well-known and notorious for many things: flamenco, bull-fighting, sherry and traditional festivals. None of these festivals is more widely celebrated than Semana Santa, or Holy Week. For each of the seven days from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, cities all over Andalusia gather day and night in the narrow, cobblestoned streets to watch religious processions featuring scenes from The Passion.

Seville is the historical and geographical heart of this celebration. More than 55 brotherhoods of robed men carry 115+ elaborate, antique floats enveloped in hundreds of lit candles, depicting the Virgin or Christ, throughout the city among the masses of weeping worshippers. Echoes of processional music from live marching bands can be heard in the distance and set the pace for each march. This is with the exception of El Silencio, which is carried out in complete silence.  Proud men, honored by fellow Sevillians as local heroes, train for months before carrying these hefty 17th-century structures, practicing choreography ranging from rhythm and acceleration to curves and jumps. Typical routes begin from various churches in the city, to the cathedral and back. These paths can and do take several hours from start to finish. Spaniards from all over come to see these various bible scenes in action, the favorites usually consisting of the Virgin Mary in her intensifying stages of mourning.

Readers, kindly take note that the traditional costumes of Semana Santa aren’t meant to invoke understandable feelings of shock or anger. It’s rather ironic and completely disgraceful that the gangs known in America as the Ku Klux Klan stole this robed and hooded look from a traditional Catholic tradition. It will take some getting used to when seeing these figures surrounding you, but keep in mind, here they are devotional cloths and they had them first!

Semana Santa

While clearly a religious holiday, Semana Santa (like everything else in Spain!) eventually turns into one big party. After the touching and emotional processions, families from grandparents to sleeping babies alike fill every restaurant in the city, pouring onto the streets until the dark hours of the morning. The arrival of spring is also used to celebrate those “other” Spanish traditions: quality family time, incredible food and relaxing libations.

Semana Santa is something you can only experience in Spain and it would be a sin to miss it!

[Procession - The Christ photo provided by peribaynez]

[Semana Santa - Traditional Robes photo provided by Le Grand Portage]

]]>
http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/seville/2010/03/30/when-the-saints-go-marching-in/feed/ 1 1