Using the National Train System in China

For transportation in China, nothing is more rewarding and culture-bridging than using the national train system. Sure, you could fly. But you’ll be with the most wealthy and elite folks in the country if you take that option. To really meet the locals you’ll want to hop aboard a train and experience the thrill of slower travel and closer contact. Here’s how it works.

From Shanghai, the Shanghai Train Station will allow you to book tickets ten days in advance or less to any destination in China other than Lhasa (for which you need special permissions). Booking your ticket is simple if you speak Chinese, but a bit like open heart surgery if you don’t. Here are a few tips:

First, the booking office is not actually in the train station, but across the street in a different, gymnasium-like room. Or, better yet, there are train booking offices throughout the city that are more convenient. To book a ticket all you need to know how to say is the destination and the date and time. Have a bilingual person write this down for you or, even better, use your language phrasebook to learn the day of the week and time of day. If all else fails, there is usually someone on staff who speaks English. Once your ticket is booked review the printed copy and make sure everything is right.

The train stations in China, unlike the ones in the USA and Europe, accept returns! I missed a train to Beijing once and they refunded it, rebooked me for a later date and didn’t even act condescending, like the Amtrak folks sometimes are! What a deal!

Finally, once you arrive your ticket will have a waiting room printed on it. Find this holding room and don’t even bother pushing your way to the front. When your train is ready, you’ll know because a massive herd of folks will start pushing their way to the gate. Your ticket will be stamped and you’ll be on your way.

By the way, you’ll have to go through security when you arrive at the station, so don’t bring any explosives. As far as I can tell, they allow most reasonably sized pocket knives, but not a lot else. You can bring all the food and drink aboard you want, and the baggage limit seems to be “whatever you can carry without being a pain to other passengers.” There is no baggage service, so be prepared to lift whatever you carry aboard some 6 feet off the ground into the luggage racks.

Your ticket will have your seat or bunk number on it, and your car number. If you need help, simply walk up to an attendant and act as lost as possible, which isn’t hard for most foreigners. Someone will take pity on you and take you to your car or even your bunk. Once there, you’ll met lots of new and interesting people who are more than willing to keep you company on your long voyage, whether it be to neighboring Beijing or even further to Xinjiang or beyond to the international routes.

FYI: there is a north and south train station serving different locations. Make sure you go to the right station for your desired location! The southern station services the south, the northern station services the north, as a general (albeit lax) rule.