ST. THOMAS

Udder Delite Dairy Bar: Visitors to Magens Bay beach usually drive right past the Udder Delite Dairy Bar (next to the St. Thomas Dairy) because of its nondescript appearance and blink-and-you’ll miss it location on route 35. But do make a point to stop by — you’ll be tickled by their liquor-spiked ice cream shakes in creative flavors such as Eskimo Sip and Jamocho. It’s a great treat to cap off a day by the sea.

Camille Pissarro Gallery: Shoppers on Main Street in Charlotte Amalie often wander right past the Camille Pissarro Gallery – the museum highlighting one of St. Thomas’s most famous sons. The Impressionist master may have gained fame in Paris, but he was born right in the building housing the gallery.

French Heritage Museum: Frenchtown is a popular neighborhood for nightlife, but few realize that the name of this neighborhood alludes to its unique French heritage. A visit to the tiny but impressive Frenchtown Heritage Museum will open your eyes to the history all around you.

SNUBA and BOSS: There are also a few novel watersports activities for those who are tired of the usual snorkeling and SCUBA diving. You could try “snuba” diving (an alternative to SCUBA involving a mask hooked up to a hose that supplies continuous oxygen from the surface) at Coral World or Coki Beach, or jet off on an underwater scooter called B.O.S.S. near Crown Bay Marina.

ST. JOHN

Ivan Jadan Museum: Right at the edge of Cruz Bay is a museum that’s almost completely unknown to tourists. The Ivan Jadan Museum is a monument to a once-famous Russian opera singer who fled the Soviet Union in 1941 and eventually made St. John his home (mainly to avoid Stalin’s agents in North America). Though Ivan died in 1995, his wife of 40 years, Doris, lovingly maintains a tiny museum that is packed with unique artifacts that Jadan collected during his life and travels, photos detailing his life, and a collection of books about Russian music.

The Elaine Lone Sprauve Library and Museum: This is another oft-overlooked little treasure on St. John. A former plantation great house that was restored in 1982, the building now houses a library and a dusty but quaint museum on the lower floor with a few exhibits on the island’s past.

Jumbie Beach: If you’d prefer an off-the-beaten-path outdoor destination, Jumbie Beach fits the bill. It is tiny but nonetheless has lots to offer. Tucked down a steep path off the North Shore road, more locals than tourists frequent it for its privacy and excellent snorkeling.

1) Banana Tree Grille: This award-winning surf-and-turf emporium is a gastronomic wonderland. And the desserts rank as some of the best on the island. On any given night you’ll find succulent key lime pie, mouthwatering chocolate Godiva brownies, dreamy ice cream crepes, and creamy homemade  tiramisu.

2) Old Stone Farmhouse: The creative European/American/West Indian cuisine at this favorite island eatery is complemented by a fabulous lineup of desserts such as Grand Marnier tiramisu, Chocolate Intemperance (chocolate mousse, cream cheese chocolate brownie, chocolate glaze, and passion fruit), bananas Foster, and “Lime N Da Coconut” creme brulee.

3) Mafolie Restaurant:  You can indulge your sweet tooth to the nth degree at this elegant, romantic restaurant high up on the hill overlooking Charlotte Amalie harbor. After-dinner favorites include coconut creme pastries, souffle bread pudding, key lime pie, New York-style cheesecake and uber-rich chocolate mousse cake.

It draws people from St. Thomas, St. John, and other surrounding  islands. Local area bands provide non-stop music from dusk till dawn. This year the lineup includes Extreme Band, West Lindy, Maxx Cabello, Jr., Junior Kelly, Spectrum, and DJ Avalanche.

Besides the music, the main draw is the drinks and food: Foxy’s offers four of his own microbrews made from pure Caribbean waters, as well as Pain Killers, Dread Fox and Sly Fox libations. A Caribbean BBQ is offered at the beachfront level, complete with ribs, chicken and freshly caught fish, complemented with fresh garden vegetables. There is free admission into Foxy’s Outback until 10:30pm.

If you have your own boat you can anchor in Great Harbour, and if not, there are ferry services that run hourly trips over and back on the night, for about $100 per person from St. Thomas, St. John, and Tortola:

Dolphin Shuttle
340-774-2628

www.DolphinShuttle.com

Drake’s Seat: The most famous of St. Thomas’s lookout points, this north-east- facing spot affords beautiful views of Magens Bay, Hans Lollick, St. John, Jost Van Dyke, and Tortola. Sir Francis Drake allegedly used this vantage point to spy on Spanish ships passing through the area in the late 1500s.

Mountain Top: This is actually the highest lookout point on St. Thomas, at 1,547 feet. The view is very similar to the view you get from Drake’s Seat, except that you can see farther on a clear day. In addition to Magens Bay, St. John, Jost Van Dyke and Tortola, you can also see Virgin Gorda if you’re lucky. And don’t forget to try a wicked banana daiquiri when you’re up there.

Skyline Drive Overlook: This is my favorite lookout point. Also known as Valdemar Hill Scenic Overlook, it is a south-facing viewpoint at the top of Mafolie Road, which rises above downtown Charlotte Amalie. You not only get a dramatic 180-degree view of the entire Charlotte Amalie harbor, including both cruise ship docks, Water Island, and Hassel Island, but also major landmarks in town, including Yacht Haven Grande, the Marriott hotel, the Governor’s Mansion, and Bluebeard’s Castle. On a clear day you can see all the way south to St. Croix and west to Culebra and Vieques. (See photo above.)

Paradise Point: Cruise ship passengers like to take the cable car up to this point, which offers a northwest view over Charlotte Amalie, including Blackbeard’s and Bluebeard’s castles, Yacht Haven, and the waterfront. On non-cruise-ship days when the cable car is not running you can drive up the hill. The bar serves potent drinks such as the Bailey’s Bushwhacker and the Painkiller, and there is often live music on weekends. TIP: drive up here at night to see the twinkling lights of Charlotte Amalie by moonlight.

Bordeaux Fire Station: This isn’t an official lookout point, but it’s a great out-of-the way place for a view in a different direction. To get there, take the waterfront highway west out of Charlotte Amalie, and just keep going. Go past the airport, the University, and head up hill. The road twists and turns for about three miles to the far western tip of the island. Eventually you will see the fire station on your right. On a clear day you can see the islands of Culebra and Vieques to the west, and if it’s REALLY clear, you can see all the way to the main island of Puerto Rico.

So is St. Thomas (or any of the U.S. Virgin Islands) safe for tourists? I think the answer is yes — and this is not just an idle guess. As a reporter who covers crime for the local newspaper, I can honestly say that I haven’t heard of a single serious crime committed against a tourist in the year I’ve been here.

Street gangs do exist here, but they target almost exclusively other gang members. And opportunistic criminals do lurk about, looking to hold up pedestrians or businesses for cash or jewelry. But they operate at times and in places where tourists rarely go.

Thousands of visitors come here every year and ride the local buses, wander the colonial-era streets, and enjoy the magnificent beaches, without incident.

Of course you should obey the same rules of personal safety here that you would at home: don’t make yourself a target by walking down sketchy streets late at night laden with cash (for example Back Street in downtown Charlotte Amalie); don’t accept (or offer) rides from people you don’t know; and don’t go home with people you don’t know after you’ve been drinking, whether they be locals OR other tourists.

In sum, St. Thomas is no safer, nor more dangerous, than anywhere else. All cities (and islands) have crime, as does the town you come from, no doubt. The difference is that most people feel safer at home, because things are familiar, but crime can happen to you anywhere.

I hope that this message has shed some light on St. Thomas and turned the “unfamiliar” into a “familiar,” so you feel safe when you visit.

If you’re a repeat visitor to St. Thomas you’ll appreciate knowing what’s in and what’s out, so here’s a quick update.

Agave Terrace and Funghi’s: These two restaurants at Point Pleasant Resort were perennial favorites, but both have fallen victim to the times. However, renovations are under way and new eateries will be taking their place. Jack’s Wings, previously at Tillett Gardens, is moving to the former Funghi’s site, but so far no word on what will take the place of Agave Terrace.

The seafood-centric Coco Blue now occupies the space in American Yacht Harbor where the avant-garde pan-Asian Lotus restaurant once was. (The new eatery is owned and managed by the same team as the old one though.) It is getting excellent reviews and is definitely worth a visit when you’re in the East End.

The Toad and Tart: The island’s only British-style pub closed its doors in September. No more “warm beer and awful food,” as their slogan used to joke.

Robert’s and Ainsley’s: The two restaurants at the Elysian resort are now closed. Sangria’s is replacing Ainsley’s, but no word yet on what will replace Robert’s.

Watahoshi: The owners of this tiny but hugely popular sushi shack on Hull Bay beach have decided to pull the plug on their venture. Sad, but true. If you’re hungry you can still get food at the Hull Bay Hideaway, the adjacent bar/restaurant.

Thirteen: Though it opened more than a year ago, this excellent Northside restaurant is worth mentioning because it took a while to become well-known amongst out-of-towners. They serve up creative (and somewhat pricey) gourmet surf-and-turf delicacies like crab-stuffed salmon and bacon-wrapped chicken.

The Looney Bien: This Mexican joint replaced another (Margarita Phil’s) on the Frenchtown strip. Well, technically it’s Tex-Mex, with a dash of Caribbean thrown in.

Latitude 18: A favorite of East End boaties, this dockside bar and restaurant closed in August after 22 years. Many thought it was the end of an era for an island institution, but a new management team leased the property and is re-opening the bar in December with a new menu and look — but hopefully the same laid-back, friendly vibe.

The beachside bar and restaurant at Secret Harbor Resort were closed and renovated over the summer. The Blue Moon Cafe is now gone, replaced by the Sunset Grille, and the bar is now the tiki-themed Beach Club.

St. Thomas

Magic Ice Gallery and Bar: This unique exhibit will allow visitors to explore the rich nature, traditions and history of the islands through varied and intricate sculptures and installations created from snow and ice. The installations are dramatically lit and presented with music and images. The exhibit, which opens on January 11, 2012, will be located next to the Pizza Hut on the Charlotte Amalie waterfront. To see a preview, go to www.magicice.vi or call (340) 422-1581.

Tree Limin’ Extreme Zip-Line: Scheduled to open in the spring of 2012, the US Virgin Islands’ first zip line will include six lines and two sky walks. Located near the highest point on the island, visitors will get dramatic views of Magens Bay and down island. The zip-line adventure also includes admission to the St. Peter Mountain Greathouse, its home base. For more information go to http://www.ziplinestthomas.com or call (340) 998-7942.

Treasure Seeker Pirate Ship: In a nod to the island’s pirate history, The Treasure Seeker is now offering two-hour pirate themed tours around Hassel Island and Water Island. This converted car ferry turned 65-foot pirate ship offers family-friendly activities ranging from face painting, to tattoos, to water gun battles and limbo dancing. A bar and gift shop are also found onboard. For more information, call Ray Hixon at 727-902-9646.

Flightseeing Adventures: Visitors can now experience the thrill of “flightseeing” in the Virgin Islands. From the window seat of a Piper Aztec or Cessna 172 aircraft, passengers can enjoy a bird’s eye view of St. Thomas and St. John, including vistas of Charlotte Amalie harbor, St. Thomas’ mountainous north side, and St, John’s famed north shore beaches. The 25-minute flight includes narration and a descriptive route guide identifying scenic highlights. For more information contact VI Ecotours at (340)779-2155 or visit http://www.viecotours.com.

St. John

Discovery Undersea Reef Tours: St. John’s newest attraction is a 125 passenger glass bottom boat. Departing from Cruz Bay, St. John or Red Hook, St. Thomas, Discovery Undersea Reef Tours allows passengers to explore the underwater world in air-conditioned comfort from its bottom level through 20 picture windows. The middle and upper level house a bar, seating and captain’s deck where visitors can enjoy picturesque views of St. Thomas and St. John. Available for groups, weddings and special events. For more information go to http://globalmarinellc.weebly.com/

New “Accessible Trails” in the Virgin Islands National Park: These trails allow visitors in wheelchairs, families with young children and strollers, and other people who are less “sure of foot” to enjoy the natural beauty and exotic fauna of the VI National Park. The Cinnamon Bay Trail, opposite the entrance to the park, is now wheelchair-accessible with a 610 foot ramp that winds thru the Cinnamon Bay Factory Ruins. The wide path combines concrete walkways with raised wooden boardwalks. It also uses toe rails and grooved handrails to ensure that visitors are safe and comfortable.

St. Croix

SNUBA of St. Croix: SNUBA is a form of SCUBA diving, but without all the tanks and equipment – and you don’t need certification. It’s now available on St. Croix for both beach and boat dives. Departing from the Christiansted boardwalk, guests can opt for a two-and-a-half-hour SNUBA boat trip from the East End Marine Park, or enjoy Snuba from the famed Cane Bay Beach along the north shore. Open 7 days a week. For more information, go to http://www.snubastcroix.com or call (340) 226 3468.

Standup Paddleboarding: Stand-up paddleboarding has arrived on St. Croix! Two outfitters now offer lessons and/or guided eco-tours. For more information, contact Teres Veho at 340-227-0682 or Kite St. Croix at kitestx@kitestcroix.com.

Fort Frederick Beach Amenities: Frederiksted’s popular pier-side beach will soon offer new amenities for visitors to enjoy. A water trampoline and inflatable rock climbing wall will be installed just offshore for public use, and there will soon be a new food-vendors plaza where visitors can enjoy tasty island treats, sample local cuisine and cool off with frozen drinks and shaved ice flavored with local fruit.

Diageo Welcome Center: Work is well underway on the $5 million visitor center being built as part of the Captain Morgan Rum Distillery. The center hopes to capture the Captain’s personality and bring his story, the story of rum, and the USVI together. The experience will include history and artifacts of the industry, a movie theater, a bar reception area, a small store and a place for visitors to take tours of the plant. The welcome center is scheduled to open in the Spring of 2012.

The pizza pictured above is half mozarrella, tomato, and basil, and half vegetarian. These are two of several delectable gourmet pies made in Pie Whole’s huge brick oven. The pizza here may not be what you’re used to, as the crust is thin and crispy, and the cheese is not ladled on with a shovel. It’s more old-school Italian rather than Americanized fast-food pizza.

The tiny-but-quaint joint in Frenchtown also offers homemade fresh pastas, delicious salads, and over 40 beers, fine wines and mixed drinks.

The prices are reasonable (I think my pizza was $13) and the service is very friendly. So check it out if you want a little taste of Italy in the Caribbean. It’s been getting rave reviews, and even won Best New Restaurant in St. Thomas last year.

Here are some more links: The Pie Whole on Facebook, The Pie Whole website

They also have a wide range of wines, cordials, Japanese beer and sake, plus some inventive desserts like lemongrass sorbet.

Buddha Sushi is located in Estate Frydenhoj, on the south coast road headed towards Red Hook. Hours are 5-10pm Monday through Saturday, except during the once-a-month Full Moon parties, which go from 10pm till LATE and include DJs and dancing.

It’s been non-stop rain on St. Thomas for the better part of a week, with more forecast in the next few days.

Despite St. Thomas being a sun-and-sand destination for most travelers, there are still plenty of things to do even when the weather is not cooperating. Here are some ideas:

1) Go to Coral World. This ocean park and aquarium has plenty to see and do that does not require the sun to make it complete. There’s the shark tank, a sea lion show, feeding the sting rays, and more.

2) Shop!! There’s tons of duty-free shopping in downtown Charlotte Amalie and Havensight, with bargains to be had on items ranging from jewelry to electronics to cosmetics to liquor. So put on your rain hat, bring an extra bag or two, and get going. You won’t even notice that the sun’s not out.

3) Eat!!! St. Thomas is famous for its many gourmet restaurants, and as long as you don’t sit out on the patio, the bad weather won’t affect you. Some favorites include Buddha Sushi, Bella Blu, Amalia Café, and Pesce.

4) Drink!!! There are about 100 bars on the island, so you can pretty much while an afternoon away sampling the favorite local drinks: the Bailey’s Bushwhacker, the Banana Daiquiri, and the Painkiller. Just don’t drink too much or you may not get back to your cruise ship in time. Popular bars include Duffy’s Love Shack, Fat Turtle, Shipwreck Tavern, and the Greenhouse.