Easy to find, but probably difficult to secure a table during peak summer vacation time, are every possible chain restaurant and plenty of stand alone eateries. Visitors take a chance with some of the no-names. A few are excellent while others, including at least one BBQ place, are very disappointing. Some restaurants that are on the next higher level also are lacking. One suggestion is to fully research restaurants before entering town rather than relying on pot luck.

To fully experience the historical setting, plan to dine at some of the taverns in and near Colonial Williamsburg. The traditional dishes are very good to excellent and the atmosphere is, for lack of a better word, historic.

Casual upscale contemporary dining also can be found in town, but walking through the doors without reservations is not recommended during peak times of the year. The few quality restaurants in this category pack in locals and vacationers.

One restaurant that sings out is the Fat Canary, though the name has nothing to do with the bird.

Ships that sailed from the Old World to the New World stopped in the Canary Islands for supplies. One of the important provisions brought aboard was wine, which was referred to as “Canary.” The restaurant is named after a reference in poem by Colonial era playwright John Lyly — “Oh for a Bowl of fat Canary, rich Palermo, sparkling sherry…”

This contemporary bistro has a comfortable setting with an open kitchen. The menu reflects Executive Chef Thomas Power’s diverse regional and ethnic experiences (New Orleans, southern California, Hawaii and North Carolina) and seating is intimate (60). A handful of stools at the bar are worth grabbing if they become available as the entire menu is served at the liquor cabinet.

Some of the menu items are seasonal and include:

Appetizers

• Crispy Virginia Soft Shell Crab with Roasted Chili Butter, Sweet Onion, Cilanto and Tomato Salad

• Seared Foie Gras with Hazelnut Toast, Cherries and Watercress

• Ginger Barbecued Pork Ribs with Marinated Cucumber Salad

Salads

• Manakintowne Greens with Pickled Beets, Toasted Almonds, Caramont Virginia Goat Cheese

• Arugula and Frisee with Gorgonzola, Summer Figs and Aged Balsamic

Entrees

• Pan Roasted Quail, Fresh Berries and Frisee, Scallion Spoonbread and Foie Gras

• Free-Range Pheasant with Gnocchi, Chanterelles, Sweet Corn, Scallions, Pancetta and Parmesan

• Mobjack Bay Clams, Tomato and Chorizo

• Sweet Soy Grilled Pacific Salmon with Citrus Ponzu, Stir Fry Vegetables and Nori Rice

• Pan Seared Sea Scallops with Crispy Pork Belly, French Green Lentils, Cherry Tomatoes and Thyme

• Heritage Breed Pork Chop with Gruyere Bread Pudding, Swiss Chard, Apples, Walnuts and Bacon

• Grilled Piedmontese Beef Tenderloin, Potato and Leek Gratin, Grilled Asparagus and Summer Truffle Butter

• Braised Boneless Beef Short Ribs, Wild Mushrooms, Farro and Brussels Sprouts

Tried and enjoyed: Pan Seared Monkfish with Lemon and Roasted Fennel Risotto; Pan Roasted Quail, Fresh Berries and Frisee, Scallion Spoonbread and Foie Gras

[Image: Fat Canary]

The main house was located several hundred feet beyond today’s main road (Route 614). The foundation remnants still exist, but archeological studies have placed any structure remains under protection. A small brick structure with a below ground foundation and about eight-foot high walls can be seen from the main road. This is what is left of an old jail.

War came to the property during the summer of 1781. British General Lord Cornwallis did not like his situation on the Virginia peninsula. His superior, General Henry Clinton, had urged Cornwallis to find a defensive position in the area. Cornwallis opted to dig in at Yorktown. His decision sealed the fate of the British Empire in America.

Prior to settling in Yorktown, though, Cornwallis left Williamsburg during early July and marched toward Jamestown. He wanted to cross the James River and reach Portsmouth. Since American and British forces in Virginia were shadowing each other, the Marquis de Lafayette had General Anthony Wayne keep an eye on Cornwallis. American troops were camped on the Green Spring property and about 500 of them watched the British rear guard.

Battle Strategy

At Jamestown, when Cornwallis realized that his forces would be vulnerable to attack as they tried to cross the river for Portsmouth, he attempted to draw the American forces into a trap. To deceive the Americans, Cornwallis hid most of his army along Powhatan Creek near Jamestown and along a swamp that lies a mile or two east of the site of the Green Spring manor house.

Wayne’s troops skirmished with the British rear guard on Friday afternoon, July 6, as Cornwallis hoped to lure him and eventually Lafayette deeper into the trap. The Frenchman, not totally convinced that the British were really leaving the peninsula without one last attempt at a general engagement, ordered the main body of his army to catch up with Wayne.

Lafayette, who had personally reconnoitered the area along the river, anticipated Cornwallis’ plan and quickly warned Wayne. But, he was too late. Wayne suddenly found himself facing Cornwallis’ entire force.

Site of the Green Spring Plantation battle.

Wayne saw the British army deploy before him. With both armies ready for battle, Wayne made a bold move. Aware that the British lines extended beyond his flanks, Wayne decided to charge. This surprised the British. They did rake the American lines with cannon grapeshot and musket fire, but the British did not advance.

Lafayette appeared on the field and he held Wayne’s men, mostly Pennsylvanians, in formation as they withdrew in good order. During this withdrawal coordination, Lafayette had two horses shot from under him.

About 130 Americans were killed or wounded. The British lost about 75. Wayne and his men retreated the short distance to the Green Spring manor area. With daylight now gone, Cornwallis lost his chance to pursue the Americans.

The Site Today

About 200 acres of the original Green Spring Plantation are preserved as part of the Colonial National Historical Park. The site includes archaeological and architectural remnants of the manor house and ancillary structures. It was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on December 29, 1978.

The manor property is not open to the public. To see a portion of it, park along Route 614 after passing a sign that reads “Green Spring Plantation.” From this vantage point, the remains of the jail can be seen. The manor house was located on the hill rising above the jail.

Remains of the old jail on the plantation.

The battle site is a short distance away. Travel along Route 614 and then follow the signs for the Jamestown Plantation. The road heads in the direction of Powhatan Creek, where Cornwallis tried to trick the American troops.

The scene of battle is adjacent to several roadside markers that overlook an open field. The trees beyond the field mark the swamp where the British hid while waiting for Wayne. Cornwallis planned to embark where the Jamestown restoration now is located.

[Images: Mike Virgintino]

The current Route 633 in Williamsburg was the Chickahominy Road used by Simcoe. It is possible that he traveled on it from the river to the point where it connects with the present Route 614. During the Revolution, this road was part of the Jamestown Road but today it also is known as Centerville Road.

Marquis de Lafayette

When the Marquis de Lafayette and General Anthony Wayne learned about the raid, they dispatched Colonel Richard Butler with infantry and cavalry to strike Simcoe as he returned to Williamsburg. After an all-night march, an advance unit of Butler’s men caught up with Simcoe on June 26 at a location then known as Spencer’s Ordinary. It was located on high ground off the Jamestown Road and reachable via the Chickahominy Road.

Details about the engagement come from Simcoe’s map of the area and the description he entered into his journal. America forces were on the high ground, straddling the Chickahominy Road. Simcoe placed his men along the road below and facing the Chickahominy Road.

Simcoe was winning the battle when he became concerned that Lafayette’s main force might have followed behind Butler. This caused him to withdraw to Williamsburg. Simcoe lost 33 men. Butler reported nine dead, 14 wounded and 14 missing. Both claimed victory, but the skirmish appears to have been a draw.

Finding the Battle Location

The site still exists today and will interest Revolutionary War buffs. However, you will need to know exactly where to look since the site is not marked with any roadside signage.

Locate the battle site by finding a modern Baptist church on Route 614. When facing the church (imagine an unobstructed view toward the high ground at the time of the battle), the battle road is immediately to the right next to what was an open field. The road takes some winding turns and passes several small modern homes as it travels up toward and along the high ground.

Most of the fighting occurred on this high ground. The road next to the church is the advance route of Simcoe as he led his men in a column.

Simcoe’s map corresponds with the topography in every detail. It also shows the location of farms close to a fork along the Chickahominy Road. Either one of these farms could have been the “ordinary,” which was a place where travelers stopped to purchase refreshments.

For no known reason, the marker that tells the story about this engagement was placed with markers explaining other area incidents on a busy main road several miles away in the hamlet of Lightfoot.

[Image: ushistory.org]

Chowning’s Tavern, opened by Josiah Chowning during 1766, appealed to the “ordinary sort.” Today it features Brunswick stew and sandwiches. It also features evening entertainment popular during the 1700s.

The King’s Arms Tavern, opened by Jane Vobe during 1772,  became one of the most genteel establishments. It features traditional southern fare (colonial game pie, roast prime rib of beef and hot apple cider) along with  after-dinner cordials.

During the 1740s, James Shields became the owner of a tavern started by his father-in-law. Guests today dine at this tavern on southern comfort food arranged in a  seasonal menu that uses ingredients from the local marketplace.

The Raleigh Tavern opened about 1717. Serving as a center for social, commercial and political gatherings, it was frequented by Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson, Richard Henry Lee and Francis Lightfoot Lee. George Washington often noted in his diary that he “Dined at the Raleigh” and the Marquis de Lafayette visited it during his return tour of America during 1824. The tavern was popular for hosting small private gatherings and large public dinners, and it also featured lectures and auctions. The original structure burned during 1859. It was rebuilt  as part of the Williamsburg restoration.

Christiana Campbell’s Tavern is the only history-related dining establishment located outside the boundaries of the main streets of the Williamsburg historic area. It is located opposite the capitol building and across the street from the park boundary. It is named for the proprietress who was described by one customer as “a little old woman about four feet high and equally thick.” Washington was a faithful customer. Then and now, Campbell’s specialties include seafood, sweet potato muffins and hot spoon bread.

The Christiana Campbell Tavern in Williamsburg

The Henry Weatherburn Tavern is the only original tavern building in Williamsburg and it still stands on its original site on Duke of Gloucester Street. Food or drink are not available at this tavern, but visitors can tour the entire building and surrounding property. Washington spent so much time in Williamsburg as a Virginia elected official before the Revolutionary War that he often frequented Weatherburn’s Tavern along with all the others in town.

The taverns of Colonial Williamsburg are open year-round but hours change with the seasons. Reservations are recommended for meals, especially during summer, and can be made through the Colonial Williamsburg main office or with each individual tavern.

[Image: Mike Virgintino]