Yosemite http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite Thu, 09 Feb 2012 01:26:07 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.2.1 101 To the Base of Yosemite Falls http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/02/09/to-the-base-of-yosemite-falls/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/02/09/to-the-base-of-yosemite-falls/#comments Thu, 09 Feb 2012 01:26:07 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=616 One of the easiest, most popular walks in Yosemite is the simple stroll to the base of Lower Yosemite Falls.  If you haven’t been to the park before, this is an obvious destination for any time of year.  If you were thinking of avoiding it because it’s too easy or too crowded – or if you saw it a few years ago – I’d still commend this walk to you. 

Lower Yosemite Falls

You can see Upper Yosemite Falls from most of eastern Yosemite Valley – in spring it’ll really grab your attention as you drive into Chapel Meadow (in the autumn you might miss it).   The visibility of the tallest waterfall in North America makes it easy to navigate to this target just by eyeballing the way.  The falls is located between Yosemite Village and Yosemite Lodge

There’s no longer a parking lot near the foot of the waterfall-Yosemite lovers donated millions to remove the parking lot and improve the foot trail and signage.  Unless you’re a guest at Yosemite Lodge, the best parking for all activities in/near Yosemite Village is the Day Use Parking Area (Camp 6).  From here it’s about a mile of flat walking to the base of the falls, or you can take the free shuttle from the parking to the trailhead.  If you’ve got your bikes (or rented bikes at the Lodge or Curry Village) there are great bike trails to the trailhead – but obey the rules and don’t bring your bike on the busy pedestrian paths; there are bike racks near the falls shuttle stop. 

The trail makes a loop on either side of Yosemite Creek with the eastern (toward Half Dome) side being at wheelchair grade the whole way.  There’s a new, large bathroom near the Lodge end of the loop.  It’s a short stroll to find food at Yosemite Lodge or in the Village.

There are some quality interpretive signs/exhibits along the trail.  One display is a brass sculpture of the landscape around the falls, so you can orient yourself both horizontally and vertically.  From other signs you’ll learn about an early hotel keeper, the falls in different seasons, some park wildlife, and John Muir.  You can see two spots where Muir lived and a faint remnant of one of his workplaces.  Sometimes you see rockclimbers on the walls to either side of the waterfall.  Lower Yosemite Falls is a drop of about 320 feet – about twice as high as the American side of Niagara.  There’s a broad viewing platform adjoining a wooden footbridge over Yosemite Creek.  Thousands of family vacation portraits are taken from this terrace each year, with the roaring fall beyond. 

In April you might get lucky and see the incredible frazil ice.  If you come in May or June the base of the fall is an intense windy, misty place – too powerful to linger long.  If you come August-September there may not be a single drop of water here – that’s California’s Mediterranean climate: winter storms bring snow and when that’s all melted the waterworks are over.   Full moon nights during spring runoff provide a chance to see the elusive ’moonbow’ here.

Yosemite Falls has been waiting; come and be baptized in its mist.

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The romance of Yosemite http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/31/the-romance-of-yosemite/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/31/the-romance-of-yosemite/#comments Tue, 31 Jan 2012 01:42:19 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=611 Valentine’s Day approaches again and our thoughts turn to romance with a special someone.   Yosemite is a marvelous place for human relationships; thousands of weddings and honeymoons happen here every year.  The landscape is uniquely grand, with Bridalveil Fall and Cathedral Spires adding to the nuptial flavor.  For some people Yosemite itself is a significant love interest.  Conservationist John Muir wrote that Yosemite Valley was so structured, “as if into this one mountain mansion Nature had gathered her choicest treasures, to draw her lovers into close and confiding communion with her.”  How’s that for romance? 

The romance of Yosemite

Former park ranger (though not in this park) Edward Abbey said it differently: “Nature may be indifferent to our love, but never unfaithful.”  I agree that this place always provides something whether we deserve it or not.  Rain, snow, sun or nighttime: it’s not hard to get away from the crowds and connect with this place.  If your eyes are open to the romance, Yosemite will deliver.

Many people find or make romance with a stay or a fancy dinner at the Ahwahnee Hotel in Yosemite Valley.  It is a grand example of ‘parkitecture’ – a building designed to fit into a wild, woodsy landscape.  It probably hosts 200 weddings and/or receptions each year.  
On the far end of the spectrum from the Ahwahnee are those couples who love life out on the trail with backpacks and boots.  A pair seeking solitude and uninterrupted conjugal time in a beautiful place will do well in Yosemite.  There are 800 miles of trails in Yosemite, and hundreds of gorgeous campsites that will inspire connubial bonding for the outdoorsy types.
In between, some Yosemite visitors would say that the Wawona Hotel is the place for a romantic interlude.  In the quieter south end of the park, this historic structure speaks of another era.  The Wawona Hotel’s rustic charm has an effect on all her guests.  Tall pines and white columned buildings, time and place work their magic.  The giant sequoias of Mariposa Grove are not far away; it’s a place that inspires awe, humility, and urges a closeness to the people you’re with.
Whatever your tastes, you can find some romance in this big mountain park.
Some updates: the Big Oak Flat Road has reopened, so there’s no hold-up getting in or out of Yosemite Valley from the northwest.
The Village Store is closed for remodeling; it reopens on February 16.
Badger Pass Ski Area is open with a light base.  There are some bare spots on the Glacier Point Road that cross-country skiers will need to step around.  Weather is very mild this week and we see no storms in the forecast. 
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Lots of Yosemite News http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/27/lots-of-yosemite-news/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/27/lots-of-yosemite-news/#comments Fri, 27 Jan 2012 01:22:56 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=601 There’s always a lot going on in Yosemite.  It’s not like San Francisco “going on” but it keeps us locals and the bears hopping in our own way.  We had some snow over the weekend and it’s really changed the park to finally feel like winter. 

Yosemite Falls in Snow

Yosemite Falls in Snow

For skiers: Badger Pass Ski Area opened today for the season.  Lifts will serve all the slopes, lessons will be in session, snowshoes will be rented out to hikers, ranger snowshoe walks go out every day and the XC trails will all be open (free, as always!)  Badger Pass is one of the smaller ski areas in California, but it is the first in the West and it’s a great place to learn.  A big plus for many skiers is getting to stay in Yosemite Valley.

For travelers from the Bay Area: Heavy rain loosened some boulders on the slopes of our canyon which fell down on the road between Yosemite Valley and Crane Flat over the weekend.  If you’re coming to the park from the Bay Area or Sacramento, you probably want to detour a bit further south to come in on Highway 140 via Mariposa.  If you enter the park on Highway 120, you cannot get to Yosemite Valley, but you can still get to two giant sequoia groves, and the endless view from the Crane Flat Fire Lookout.  This road closure is expected to be in effect for at least 3-4 weeks.  Call the NPS road conditions recording at 209/272-0200 for updates.

UPDATE: NPS road crews have done an amazing job to rebuild this road and the road opens Saturday 28 January!

For Half Dome hikers:  This summer’s Wilderness permits for overnight backpackers are the same as they’ve always been.  The summertime day hiker permits are a little different this year: you need to apply in March at recreation.gov to a lottery that happens in April.  Those 300 day hiker permits per day will be issued for the whole season, which generally runs from late May to mid-October.  Separate from this summer’s permit system, the park is seeking public comments on the future management of the cable route to the summit of Half Dome at nps.gov/yose.  If you have an idea about protecting Half Dome and providing for people’s enjoyment of it, now’s a good time to weigh in. 

For ice skaters: Alas, the remarkable experience of ice skating on Tenaya Lake has ended with the closure of Tioga Road.  You can still have a great Yosemite ice skating experience at the outdoor rink at Curry Village.  From here you can look up at snowy Half Dome – something you can’t do at Tenaya Lake (where there’s also no Zamboni).

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Rare Event: Tenaya Lake Iced, Reachable via Tioga Road http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/13/tenaya-lake-iced-2/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/13/tenaya-lake-iced-2/#comments Fri, 13 Jan 2012 01:11:14 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=588

Once in a lifetime!  The remarkably dry winter of 2012 in the Sierra Nevada has created unheard-of experiences for Yosemite visitors.  The high-country corridor of Tioga Road is open to vehicles later in the season than it’s ever been in history, and people can access the summertime playground of Tuolumne Meadows.  Along Tioga Road, the mile-long expanse of Tenaya Lake is frozen solid and dozens of people can be found ice skating or just walking around in the middle of the lake.

Tenaya Lake is about a 90-minute drive from Yosemite Valley.  It is situated at 8500′ and is surrounded by the towering Tenaya Peak and granite domes named Pywiack, Polly and Stately Pleasure.   The road there and the lake itself are usually deep under snow by now.

For the moment you can do the inconceivable: drive up and ice skate on this glassy bowl.

Be careful: ice is slippery.  Keep dogs off the lake.  Do your best to ‘Leave No Trace’ with this rare treat.

UPDATE: Tioga Road is now closed in advance of a significant winter storm arriving this evening (Thu 19 January).  Glacier Point Road will likely close soon.

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Free this Weekend! http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/12/free-this-weekend/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/12/free-this-weekend/#comments Thu, 12 Jan 2012 17:17:00 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=576 All national parks that charge an entry fee are FREE to visitors for the Martin Luther King, Jr. Day holiday weekend.  The usual entry fee is $20 per car, no matter the number of passengers; that fee is good for a week of coming and going.  Compare this with $22/person to go up the Empire State Building or $80/person for a day in Disneyland.  Yes, we pay taxes that support our national parks, but more users means more demands on the park to take care of facilities, natural resources, ranger programs, etc.   Paying $20/car/week is a bargain in many ways. 

Zamboni cleans ice rink, as seen from Glacier Point

Some of the gate receipts stay in Yosemite for specific projects that improve the visitor experience and the rest goes to other national park units that don’t collect entrance fees – both good causes.  This weekend you’ll have a chance for 100% of your money to go to Yosemite projects.  Volunteers from the non-profit Yosemite Conservancy will be collecting donations at park entrances.  If you want to help Yosemite, here’s an easy way to do so – just hand a volunteer the entrance gate fee you’d normally give to the rangers; all of these donations go straight into Yosemite projects via the Conservancy.   Get a brochure from a volunteer and learn more about this helpful agency; they raised about $8 million in donations for otherwise unfunded park needs in 2011. 

If you’re headed to ice skate on Tenaya Lake this weekend, beware the effects of recent warm days on the ice.  Be careful near edges and in places that have been in the sun all day.  Do NOT take your dog out on the ice.  Wildlife and the environment come first in a national park – not pets.  More than once recently visitors have been disturbed to find dog poop out on the ice of Tenaya Lake – yuck.   Dogs in Yosemite must be on a leash and can’t leave the pavement or a campsite.  They can’t romp in meadows, go along on trails, and they can’t go out on frozen Tenaya Lake with you.
The weekend’s weather will continue the remarkable mild and dry pattern; no snow or rain is forecast any time soon.  Days will be in the 50′s in Yosemite Valley, sun will be warm.   Nights will be frosty.  Our December in Yosemite was one of the driest on record, and the first half of January has had zero precipitation.  There’s almost no snow, our ski area is mostly grass, and the waterfalls are running low.  Most trails are open, but the stretch of the Muir Trail below Nevada Fall is closed by ice build-up.  Above 7000′ or so you’ll find a thin veneer of icy/snow on shaded trails – this makes walking a little tricky.  Trekking poles will help with your stability in these slippery conditions.
Come celebrate our equality and freedom in Yosemite, a park for all people. 
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Lazy Days of Winter… http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/08/lazy-days-of-winter/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2012/01/08/lazy-days-of-winter/#comments Sun, 08 Jan 2012 23:30:13 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=570 Mild and dry is Yosemite’s winter story for the past few weeks.  Tioga Road is open past record late dates, and even if there’s a return to a normal storm cycle, it’ll be a short winter.  If the road re-opens (assuming that it does eventually get snowed under) in it’s usual late May, we are approaching the point at which this winter’s closure will be half the duration of last year’s closure. 

The Day Lodge at Badger Pass Ski Area

Glacier Point Road is also still open to cars.  It’s exceedingly strange to drive out to that precipice in winter for a view without snow – it should be a 10-mile cross-country ski over 3-8 feet of snow to a view that’s 80% whiteness.  So many people are stopping to sled on the meager patch of icy snow on the shady north slope of Summit Meadow that biologists are concerned about the new footpaths developing in an otherwise untrodden meadow.   If you go, try to be gentle on the plants.  Some people are now calling our park’s ski area, not Badger Pass, but “Badger Grass.” 

In Yosemite Valley the bike rental stands are open and once the frosty mornings have thawed out, the biking is pretty nice.  The reduced off-season vehicle traffic on Valley roads is a plus.  DNC is bringing some horses up from their wintertime foothill pastures and will have the Valley Stables operating for trail rides – unheard of for this time of year. 
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The Best Snowshoeing http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/31/the-best-snowshoeing/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/31/the-best-snowshoeing/#comments Sat, 31 Dec 2011 17:51:54 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=564 We are still waiting for any snow to arrive in the Sierra!  Tioga Pass and Glacier Point Roads remain open – a good six weeks after the usual closing dates.  Skiers and snowshoers are frustrated that they can’t get out and play here yet.  But when the big snows arrive (they will) Yosemite becomes a playground for winter sports.  Snowshoeing has boomed in popularity and there are great places in Yosemite for getting out for a wintery hike on snowshoes.

A playground for snowshoers
Yosemite Valley seldom has enough snow to require snowshoes; you’ll want to go higher up.

Badger Pass Ski Area is where most people head for winter play.  Rangers loan out snowshoes for the 2-hour naturalist walks they lead every day at 10 a.m.  You can rent snowshoes at the Cross-Country Shop.  The most popular walk is a full-day round-trip to Dewey Point on the rim of Yosemite Valley.  Start this early, and only if you’re in good shape- it’s not an extreme trek, just long for a snowshoe outing, and you’re above 7,000′.  NEVER walk in XC ski tracks!

The park’s 3 groves of giant sequoias are also great snowshoe routes if you’ve got your own gear.  Mariposa Grove is the biggest grove and allows the most exploration.  The Merced Grove is the smallest grove, the most intimate, and the place where you’re least likely to find many people.
Near the Merced Grove is the road up to the Crane Flat Fire Lookout.  It’s just a mile and climbs about 400 feet but gets you to a commanding view of the west slope of the Sierra.  If you can locate Henness Ridge Lookout (closer to Badger Pass) on a map that’s another one-mile adventure you may have all to yourself.
Always check the weather forecast, bring serious sun protection, extra clothes for cold/wet, plenty of food and water.  A headlamp is not a bad idea for the short day lengths of winter.
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High Country Skating http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/28/high-country-skating/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/28/high-country-skating/#comments Wed, 28 Dec 2011 20:27:04 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=559 The Sierra is having a remarkably (scary) dry winter so far and Yosemite’s Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road are both still open.  These are generally buried under many feet of snow after mid-November, so to be able to drive over the  highest highway pass in California at Christmastime is a rare thing.   The forecast is dry into the middle of next week so New Year’s access to the high country is more than likely. 

On Tenaya Ice
Ice on Tenaya Lake

  Because the cold of winter has come without the storms of winter, the high country lakes have very clean ice surfaces, perfect for skating.  Hundreds of people have rented, borrowed or exhumed old ice skates specifically to make an excursion up Tioga Road.  Skaters have been on Ellery and Tioga Lakes east of the pass and many people are skating or just walking out on to Tenaya Lake.  All of these lakes are adjacent to Highway 120, the Tioga Road.  Other folks are hiking into the backcountry for more solitary, wild experiences at May, Cathedral, Elizabeth or Budd Lakes. 

BE CAREFUL!  Rangers are not checking ice thickness for safety, and a tragic accident with thin ice is a possibility somewhere.  Never go out on ice alone; think first about how you’d climb out of the freezing water if you fell through. 
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Family Winter Get-Aways http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/14/family-winter-get-aways/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/14/family-winter-get-aways/#comments Wed, 14 Dec 2011 04:30:33 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=555 Whether you’re skiers or not, you owe your family a visit to Yosemite in the winter.  The park is uncrowded and it’s beautiful – it’s as if there’s a second entire Yosemite in the snowy, quiet time of year.  It’s true that many people are headed to ski (or learn to ski) or snowshoe at Badger Pass, but there’s a lot more to Yosemite, even in the off-season. 

Cross-country skiers in Yosemite

 If you want to stay in Yosemite Valley you’ve got options at the Ahwahnee, Yosemite Lodge, Curry Village and two campgrounds right through the winter.  You’ll virtually never have trouble getting a campsite in the winter; quite a contrast to the summertime situation.  Most hiking trails are still open and worth exploring for an experience completely different from the summer activity.  You may or may not find snow on Valley trails; bring good boots and you should be fine; it’s quite rare to need snowshoes in Yosemite Valley.

You can stroll to the base of Lower Yosemite Falls, or up to Mirror Lake – or if you’ve got older, hardy kids - take on a bigger challenge in your day with a longer haul up to the top of Yosemite Falls or the top of Nevada Fall.  Those trails will be snowy but people do these hikes every week of the off-season.  Even going part-way is worthwhile.
You’ve got good family dining options at both the Lodge and the Ahwahnee.  Degnan’s Deli in Yosemite Village is the place to stop in for hot soup at lunchtime or hot cocoa at the end of a day sauntering in a winter wonderland. 
The free shuttle buses run all winter in the east Valley; they’re a great way for families to get from one part of the Valley to another.  One shuttle stop is right in front of the Curry Village Ice Rink.  Rent skates or bring your own and enjoy the view of Half Dome or Glacier Point while gliding around the rink.  A big firepit rewarms you when you need a break from fun on the ice. 
If there isn’t snow on the floor of Yosemite Valley, you can find it higher up on Hwy. 41 or Hwy. 120, both of which go over 6000′ in elevation.  Sledding is not allowed at Badger Pass, but it is elsewhere.  Having a snowball fight, making a snow angel, and building a snowman are rituals of winter play that every kid should try. 
If you stay outside the park, Mariposa and El Portal on Hwy. 140 generally offer the least snowy roads for accessing the Valley.  There’s a daily shuttle to Badger Pass from Oakhurst on Hwy. 41.  Along Hwy. 120 you have great snowshoe options (or hiking if the snow is old and compacted) into either the Merced Grove or Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoias. 
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Packing for a Winter Visit http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/11/packing-for-a-winter-visit/ http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/2011/12/11/packing-for-a-winter-visit/#comments Sun, 11 Dec 2011 00:15:05 +0000 petedevine http://www.nileguide.com/destination/blog/yosemite/?p=547 If you follow the forecasts you’ll see that Yosemite winter conditions can vary between cold, snowy, wet, sunny, or mild and a winter visit can often feature a mix of all of these.   To some extent you can pick your weather by elevation: stay in Mariposa or El Portal in the foothills and you’re unlikely to have snow or cold there.   Go up to Badger Pass Ski Area at 7200′ for the day and you’ll certainly have snow.   Travelers are advised to bring a variety of layers.

Ice on Vernal Fall Yesterday
Ice on Vernal Fall Yesterday

Yosemite Valley, at 4000′, doesn’t usually get a great deal of snow.   The snow that we do get can be pretty drippy.  It’ll often snow 6-8 inches then melt off in a few days.  The shady south side of the Valley (Curry Village, the Pines campgrounds) may keep snow and ice all winter long.  The sunny north side (Yosemite Lodge, Yosemite Falls, Yosemite Village) is more often dry than it is snow-covered. 

Always check the forecast before you come up to the Sierra; this can tell you if you’ll need lots of gear or not. You can check local weather and the road conditions by calling the NPS recording at 209/372-0200 for up to the minute details.  Many people also check the webcams at yosemiteconservancy.org which will give you an idea of how much snow is on the ground in the Valley.
If you don’t have high-top, insulated, waterproof snowboots, you can put a plastic bag over your wool socks inside your regular hiking boots and get around in snow that way.  If there’s deep snow you might add some $30 gaiters to your suitcase instead of investing in snowboots. 
Depending on what you’re doing, you’ll want some insulating layers for the cold, but our chill is seldom severe.  The Sierra is warmer than the Rockies but gets more snow (and wetter snow).  You do not need to be heavily dressed for XC skiing or snowshoeing (while you’re moving), and some days (even above 7000′) can be quite toasty in strong sun. 
Some times you want a couple layers of warm mittens, on other days it’s just light gloves for being comfortable.  Same goes with headgear: ballcaps and UV sunglasses at times, or a warm insulated beanie and a scarf for really wintery situations.
Tire chains for your car are an essential to pack; rangers can require that you have them in order to enter the park.  Remember that at any level of chain control conditions the speed limit is 25 mph. 
Whatever you’ve packed you’ll get to enjoy a lot more Yosemite for yourself; crowds are non-existent (other than lunchtime on the deck at Badger).  There’s no need to dress to impress the pines and cedars. 
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