Bagolyvár (Owl Castle)

Description:

• Bagolyvár is a budget alternative to Gundel as it has the same owners, but the prices are much more reasonable. Housed in a lovely Transylvanian manor house, the idea, as sexist as it may be is that you are dining in your mother or grandmother's place; therefore, you are served only by women who care for your needs. The size of the room defeats the romantic notions of family-style intimacy, but the female waitstaff does provide excellent service; the female kitchen people do produce excellent cooking. The only male in attendance was the one playing the cimbalom by the entry. The Bagolyvár menu is limited to a dozen main courses (supplemented by daily fixed-menu three-course meals). We had the sweet and spicy spare ribs with cabbage salad wrapped in corn omelet. The ribs were meaty, dripping with a great sauce, but there were only three small ones, when our mouths were craving more. The cabbage salad was actually wrapped in corn tortillas, a mix up in translation, but nevertheless, enjoyable. For dessert, the turos palachinta was perfectly tasty with the vanilla sauce to top it with. Our only complaint was the noise level; the place was filled on a Thursday night and it was difficult to carry on a conversation among the four of us.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010