Off the Beaten Path in Budapest

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A visit to the home of famous composer Bela Bartok (1881-1945) is a must for classical music fans. Amongst other things, it offers a glimpse into the composer's personal life. As well as his own belongings, there is also a collection of memorial items such as paintings and even stamps. Bartok, who spent a lot of time studying traditional folk music, did not live in a traditional house; instead it captures the look of the early twentieth century.

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This museum has been waiting 1900 years for your visit. You will not hear anyone saying "Hail Caesar" here, but the remains of this Roman settlement and military camp with a governor's palace are more than impressive. It appears to be on the small side from the outer fence, but once you enter, you will realize how extensive it is. To reach it, from the Batthány tér metro station, take the Szentendre HÉV (suburban train) to the Aquincum stop. If you have a transportation pass, you do not need any additional tickets for the HÉV. When you get off of the train, cross the street and walk back in the direction you just came. The museum is one block away.

Our Local Expert Says:

Legendary series of interlocking courtyards in the heart of the Jewish district. Languished for years, currently undergoing refurbishment and set to re-open as a series of boutiques, cafes, and upscale condos.

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This unique series of interconnected courtyards and buildings stretching between Kiraly and Dob streets came within a hair's breadth of being demolished. This would have been an act of the utmost stupidity, as anyone strolling the now-empty passageways would agree. It once boasted apartments and many artisans' workshops and small retailers.

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To get to this delightful ride, take tram 56 from Moskva ter to the cylindrical Budapest Hotel. The railway - originally built in 1874 - hauls itself up the amazingly steep hills using a cog system underneath the train, which engages with a rack on the tracks. The train is Swiss-made (which stands to reason really, as the Swiss certainly know a thing or two about getting up steep hills). First, it goes up Svab Hill and then up to the top of Szechenyi Hill. At the top, there is a pleasant picnic area, which is popular for dog-walking and kite-flying. The restaurant in the hotel at the top offers a superb view over the city.Metro and bus tickets are valid on this route.

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This is one of Budapest's favorite museums, especially popular with kids. One of the reasons for this is that many of the displays are interactive: children (and adults too) can send faxes to each other, operate an old switchboard and so on. Seeing the huge desk of the switchboard operator and comparing it to today's mobile phone technology really illustrates what has been achieved in the past 120 years.

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Vasarely may be Hungary's most famous contemporary artist. Even if you don't know his name, you've certainly seen some of his work as well as the work of many artists his style has influenced. Wild geometric patterns and lines trick the eye as they bubble and swell (or appear to do so) and then all of a sudden you notice objects in the paintings (like the well known 'zebras'). This is an interesting gallery set in a beautiful home.

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Kerepesi Cemetery is one of the largest memorial grounds in Europe, covering over 136 acres, thus also making it one of the grandest outdoor statue parks. After the first burial in 1849, city authorities declared Kerepesi Cemetery as honored ground in 1885. Hence, you will find the interment of an extensive number of the Hungarians elite including politicians, composers, actors and actresses, sculptors, scientists, and writers amongst others. The number of ornate tombs and mausoleums offer a wide variety of artwork worth seeing. Blaha Lujza, the Hungarian Sarah Bernhardt's tomb is a grander than life statue of her sprawled on a bed with small angels on the corners to do her bidding. Chess masters headstones are chessboards, while artisans have similar life reflecting remembrances. History buffs will also find most intriguing the separate section for the victims of the 1956 revolution as well as another section for the communists who died while in power.

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The gallery features fine and applied arts from Hungary and around Europe. The Ernst Gallery, the most posh gallery in town, is run by a dynamic duo of the Austrian-born Ernst Wastl and his Greek-born wife, Eleni Korani. They put together exhibitions, discover "unknown" Hungarian artists, and whatever they put their hands onto ends up being the talk of the town. The gallery also exhibits and sells fine furniture and a wealthy collection of rarities including vintage art books, posters, and other curiosities. Hours are Monday through Friday 10am to 6pm and Saturday from 10am to 2pm.

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Few tourists are privy to this treasure or it falls from their radar. If Róth's work in the Parliament stimulated your senses, you will no doubt be again under his spell with the extensive collection of stained glass and mosaics for which he became famous. As the name implies, the Róth Miksa Memorial House is where the artist lived and had his studio. It may be difficult to locate, not being well marked. You will no doubt see other pieces of his work within the city such as the Queen of Hungary mosaic at Szervita square. His commissions were worldwide.