A Whirlwind Weekend in Buenos Aires

Our Local Expert Says:

A lovely way to spend an early morning or late evening is to stroll from Plaza de Mayo down the grand Avenida de Mayo, a wide avenue parading some of the most magnificent architecture in Buenos Aires. With antique street lamps and grand old cafes, Avenida de Mayo retains the elegance of a past era. Walk until you get to Plaza de Congreso, another equally beautiful plaza with a daytime market located about ten blocks from the Casa Rosada.

Description:

Founded by Juan de Garay in 1580, this is the original centre of the city. The city's first monument, Pirámide de Mayo, is situated at its centre. Important institutions flank the plaza: the Casa Rosada (Pink Government House), Banco de la Nación (Nation's Bank), Catedral Metropolitana and Cabildo (Town Hall). Internationally known for the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, women gather here in a silent vigil, every Thursday at 3pm to claim justice for their "disappeared" during the military rule in the 1980s.

Our Local Expert Says:

Tortoni's tango show is one of the more authentic, less pricey shows in town. Call ahead to make reservations.

Description:

This café has formed part of the Porteño landscape since 1858. A shrine to local tango culture, it houses the Academia Nacional del Tango and stages performances as well as literary events in the basement. Legendary literati such as the disquieting poets Argentine, Alfonsina Storni and Spanish Federico García Lorca gathered here. Porteño bohemia and nostalgia fuse here over a game of chess, domino and billiards. Chocolate con Churros (hot cocoa and deep fried batter) are a traditional Argentine breakfast.

Our Local Expert Says:

Oftentimes live music entertains the crowds during the weekend fair, so if you're worn out from browsing, take a seat on the hill and enjoy the music and people-watching.

Description:

This plaza, founded in October 1909, comprises some 15,400 square meters of local flora surrounded by cultural centers and the largest outdoor handicrafts fair in the city, La Feria de Recoleta, taking place every Sunday. The appropriately named Francia a Argentina monument at its center was donated in 1910 by France to Argentina commemorating the Centennial of the Revolution of May. The Museum of Fine Arts, monolithic National Library and imposing University Faculty of Law flank the area.

Our Local Expert Says:

For about a dollar you can purchase a map of the cemetery from vendors at the entrance. It will prove to be quite useful when you find yourself in the maze inside.

Description:

This cemetery was a church graveyard until 1882 when the Governor opened it to the general public and renamed it Cemetery of the North. Small, and situated on the city's most valuable land, its importance resides in the many illustrious people that rest here. One of the most visited tombstones is Eva Peron's. The majority of materials used in the construction of tombs between 1880 and 1930 were imported from Paris and Milan, and important sculptural works grace many of the tombs.

Our Local Expert Says:

If the cloisters are open (a sign at the front entrance will tell you), go through the small door next to the second altar on the left in the main chapel and pay a small fee to access the passageways above and behind the chapel. There are tons of interesting religious and historic artifacts on display in many of the small, winding halls.

Description:

This imposing white Spanish colonial church overlooks Recoleta Cemetery. While many visit inside to see the worship area, few take the time to discover the religious art museum within the former convent area, full of gorgeous pieces from Buenos Aires's early years. A step back in time, the convent retains the original flooring, stairs, walls, and other components from its 1732 construction. Most interesting are the windows with special panes, made from agate so that light could come into the structure, but the nuns would be hidden. Other highlights include the ecclesiastical wardrobes on display.

Our Local Expert Says:

Pick up the monthly CC Recoleta schedule in the lobby to see the listings of performances, exhibitions, film screenings, and classes offered at or sponsored by the center. There are also publications available here that list the cultural happenings all over the city.

Description:

Built in 1716 by the Franciscan Recoleto monks, this complex later served as a hospital during the English invasions. In 1928 it was reduced to make way for the expansion of the adjacent Recoleta Cemetery. Years later it became an asylum for over 800 homeless and elderly, until in 1978 it was destined for use as a cultural centre. The walls were fortified and painted in ochre and reddish tones, and it now bustles with cultural and educational activities for young and old. There is a small café, a gift shop and bookstore on the premises. Offices of the United Nations are also found here.

Our Local Expert Says:

The dining area at Freud & Fahler is tiny, so make reservations and beat the set of fashionable (yet hungry) Palermo lunch-breakers.

Description:

Freud & Fahler features a great bargain lunch menu, allowing guests to choose a set-price a la carte combination meal and choose from a variety of tasty and creative soups, pastas, salads, and desserts. This corner restaurant, situated in part of an old, massive warehouse, is tiny, stretching around the central kitchen and seating only about 10 small tables at a time. Contemporary works by local artists cover the walls and ceiling.

Description:

Opera Pampa is a colorful and unique show depicting the epic history of Argentina from the times of Spanish conquest to the beginning of the past century. It features over 50 dancers and horsemen onstage, stunning light effects and there's even room for some fireworks. But it's the carefully choreographed dances certainly steal the show. Afterwards you can stay for a tasty old fashioned asado (salted beef grilled using charcoal) or buy traditional goods at the gift shop. Making a reservation is strongly recommended. Warning: Some of the scenes regarding Indian history might be pretty sad and violent for small children.

Our Local Expert Says:

Milion is a place where friends meet, so take a big group, order up a bunch of fruity drinks and tasty hors d’oeuvres, and claim the space along the upper deck railing just outside the bar. Try the frozen mojito for an especially refreshing tropical treat.

Description:

Milion is an old family mansion converted into one of the city's most popular bars. A visit to this stylish lounge guarantees you the listening pleasure of good jazz tracks and a varied range of meals. Apart from the chilled out bar and garden, there is also a gallery of modern art. Pick up a drink and explore this throwback to the decadent old days. Be one of the customers who flock to this innovative, luxurious venue, regardless of your age!

Description:

Gauchescas customs are firmly rooted in Argentina. And to prove it further, the rustic decoration only keeps the heritage alive at Estilo Campo. The traditional Argentine steak asado is succulent, and grilled to your taste. Fresh fish, meat and vegetables are used in the kitchen. The homemade pastes and ample desserts can make even non-foodies stick around longer. Parking is available.

Our Local Expert Says:

Sample the cocktails at the basement bar, which was recently named one of Forbe's magazine's top 10 international hotel bars.

Description:

Opened in 1909, this is one of the classic, top-quality hotels in the city that still lives up to its reputation. Overlooking the gracious Plaza San Martin, the hotel has all you could wish from a first class establishment: swimming pool, health club, hairdresser, 24 hour room service and both central heating and air conditioning. Try one of the two elegant restaurants or enjoy a drink at the handsome Piano Bar.

Our Local Expert Says:

.Eating in el Caminito can be very expensive and of poor quality because you are mostly charged for the tango performances during your meal. You might consider sitting at an outdoor café for a drink instead, and you can watch all of the street shows for free.

Description:

This open-air "museum" brings the brushstrokes of painter Benito Quinquela Martín to life in its colors, sculptures and ceramics. In fact, more than a museum, it is an art market where a constant exhibit of works inspired by the surrounding port area and neighborhood are sold. A stroll through here is sure to thrill the tourist for its uniqueness and air of bohemia. Humble dwellings painted in vibrant colors frame the pedestrian street known as el Caminito and immortalized in a tango tune of the same name. Its first inhabitants were the working-class Genoese immigrants who settled along this path, which led from the river to the railroad tracks and is now home to innovative artists. Italian cantinas can be found in the surrounding vicinity near the port area.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be fooled by San Telmo's reputation as the "old neighborhood." While crumbling buildings abound, this place is now buzzing with hip new cafes, bars, and restaurants featuring a huge variety of cuisine, along with a wealth of independent designers opening up shops all along Defensa.

Description:

In 1871, with the outbreak of Yellow Fever, these mansions were soon overtaken by squatters, creating the city's historic conventillos (tenement houses). It was not until 1970 that an edict stipulated protection for property owners. Today the neighborhood of San Pedro Telmo is an important historic corner of the city. Locals and tourists alike flock to the Plaza Dorrego on the oldest street in the city, for the antique market and vibrant street performances, including tango. On the corner of Independencia and Balcarce streets is El Viejo Almacén, a traditional tango establishment.

Our Local Expert Says:

Buenos Aires' oldest functioning cafe, Seddon was transplanted from Retiro to the more atmospheric San Telmo a few years ago, taking all of its antique decor along.

Description:

Decorated with mirrors, paintings and furniture of the 30s, this popular spot is a blast from the past. Wednesdays there are tango classes for the most active and on the weekends, you can enjoy live jazz and blues. The kitchen's specialty is the Green Chicken.

Our Local Expert Says:

When the antiques stalls are taken down at sunset on Sundays, take a seat at an outdoor café in the plaza and watch as the locals slowly drift in to create an outdoor milonga, or tango hall. The spectacle rivals just about any overpriced tango show.

Description:

This historic plaza was the sight of the swearing of National Independence in 1816 before Don Juan Martín de Pueyrredón. During the colony, it was a resting post for wagons travelling from the port to what is now Plaza de Mayo along the first roadway, known today as Calle Defensa. Today it is the site of the San Pedro Telmo Antique Fair, where street performances by tango dancers, musicians, mimes and colourful characters mingle with the painters, antiquarians and street vendors in a bohemian rhapsody of song, dance and nostalgia. Ramble the colonial cobblestone streets of the Barrio de San Telmo to Avenida Independencia and Balcarce, to see El Viejo Almacén from the early colonial days, now a traditional tango bar/restaurant.

Description:

All of the decadent parrilla delicacies you can find in San Telmo's more basic neighborhood joints are on offer at this comparatively upscale restaurant. The elegant dining room, illuminated by white candles, shows off the selection of Argentinean wines displayed on racks lining the walls. The gloriously professional wait staff is notably unobtrusive, gliding through the restaurant; their trays piled high with tender roasts, fresh salads, and provoleta worth writing home about. Appropriate for either an overdue romantic rendezvous or a business meeting, La Brigada brings a touch of refinement to a casual dining scene in a down-to-earth neighborhood.

Description:

This is one of the most interesting milongas. It is authentic, but it attracts a very young crowd of Porteños and expats who have come from all over the world to dance their lives away in Buenos Aires, where the living is good and cheap. Many nights it is just a milonga. Other nights host shows and competitions, many involving tango, folkloric, and modern dance. La Viruta is in the cellar of the Armenian Community Center. When decorated with balloons for some events, it looks a little like a high school prom from the 1970s.