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Art in Buenos Aires

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The Buenos Aires art world reflects the city itself – a fusion of Latin fury and European panache that creates a purely Argentine character. Though at times daunting, the gallery scene in Buenos Aires is a far cry from the big shots of New York or Paris, and the museum collections may leave much to be desired from those who seek Renaissance or Impressionist masterworks. But if what you are after is something freshly contemporary, not to mention comparatively affordable original works, Buenos Aires is a fantastic place for you to become totally immersed in art. Buenos Aires has some great cultural centers that garner some of the city’s best exhibitions; essential stops include the Centros Culturales Recoleta and Borges. The MALBA has one of the finest collections of Latin American art around, and the annual ArteBA international art fair is a 5-day whirlwind of visual stimulation. The big-name galleries and exhibition spaces, such as Praxis, Braga Menendez, and Fundación Federico Jorge Klemm, host opening receptions for their shows, welcoming the public in to feel like an insider. But the art in this city reaches beyond the standard exhibition space limits – Buenos Aires is full of creative restaurants, cafés, bars, and hotels, where you can live and breath art. Spend a night at 1550 Malabia House or the Design Suites Hotel, or splurge on the Faena Hotel and Universe, the manifestation of Alan Faena’s dream hotel. Grab a bite in Milion, La Divina Comedia, and Mott, where the imaginative dishes and drinks are enhanced by the architectural design and original art hanging on the walls.

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Author: elizabeth

Day 1 - Buenos Aires

Begin the day by getting your creative juices flowing at the Centro Cultural Recoleta. The website doesn’t keep the exhibition schedule very up-to-date, but drop by the reception desk to pick up pamphlets about current and coming exhibitions. The CCR is considered to be the beating heart and soul of the Buenos Aires art world, so you can’t really go wrong here no matter what is on the walls. There are also lots of free cultural calendars and newsletters, along with city-wide art event and show announcements available at the door. Catch a quick cab up to café/bookstore Crack-Up in Palermo Soho, where you can grab a sandwich, a coffee, and a quirky travel guide or artist’s book, and settle in for an hour. The neighborhood lunch crowd tends to pack into the larger restaurants in the area so you should be able to find some space, and peace, here. Make sure that you read up on Xul Solar before heading over to his former home turned museum – knowing a little bit about his genius/madness beforehand will surely enhance your experience when you see his art and inventions and try to crack the code of the secret language that he created. The Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori is more mainstream and features Latin America’s biggest names in art. La Cigale has a dimly-lit jazz-lounge feel and a great happy hour cocktail list, but note that the 2 x 1 special is personal, so come thirsty! But save some room for the incredible frozen mojitos or basil daiquiris down the street at Milion, where you can sample the Latin cuisine in the lovely outdoor courtyard, or enjoy the bar inside surrounded by the off-beat photos of Buenos Aires big-shot Marcos Lopez. If you’re not too tipsy yet, stop off at Mott on the way home for yet another cocktail, or, if you’ve had enough, an aromatic tea, on the fluffy sofas in this cavernous restaurant in Palermo. The design interior at the hip Malabia House will welcome you home when you finally turn in for the night.

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Centro Cultural Recoleta

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Junín 1930
1113 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4803 1040

Crack-Up

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Costa Rica 4767
1175 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4831 3502

Xul Solar

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Laprida 1212
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 48243302

Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo Sívori

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Avenida Infanta Isabel 555
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4774 9452 / +54 11 4772 5628

Cigale (La)

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25 de Mayo 722
1376 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 43128275

Milión

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Parana 1048
Barrio Norte
1018 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4815 9925

Mott

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El Salvador 4685
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

5411 4833 4306

1555 Malabia House

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Malabia 1555 - Palermo
1414 Buenos Aires, AR

Phone:

5411 4833 2410

Day 2 - Buenos Aires

Kick off your Friday with an intimate look at the Buenos Aires art world from the inside when you meet the artists in their studios on the Artists’ Atelier Tour. The tour takes about 5 hours total and is mainly for art collectors and those who intend to buy works, but all who are interested in meeting local artists are welcome. Stop into the Scandinavian-inspired Olsen for a minimalist lunch or a creative vodka-infused specialty concoction by the fashionably scruffy bartenders. If the weather’s nice, make sure to situate yourself on the garden patio. Walk a few blocks over to Braga Menendez, a staunchly Latin American contemporary gallery that always has a stimulating, or at least eccentric, exhibition. Cross over from here to the hangar-like garage studio and showroom of Nico Alligator, where the junk sculptor will greet you, or at least try to get you to buy something. His prices are almost absurdly cheap, but he is gaining recognition so start collecting him now! Te Mataré Ramirez is not for the conservative dinner crowd; an “aphrodisiac restaurant” with erotic puppet shows, kama sutra images on the walls, and after-dinner pole dancing classes offered, this kinky spot is perfect for couples looking for a bit of…stimulation. Enjoy your meal surrounded by fetish 50’s-style dancers and then stop off at the restaurant’s shop for some goodies. If you aren’t worn out by now, Mosoq is a perfect place to end your night, with an inspired martini (a Buenos Aires rarity).

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Artists' Atelier Tour

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Marcelo T. de Alvear
(intersection Montevideo)
1683 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 40496107 for USA and Canada the number is 1 877 278 5006

Olsen

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Gorriti 5870
At Carranza
C1414BKJ Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4776 7677

Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo

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Humboldt 1574
C1414CTN Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4775 5577 / +54 11 4775 9255

Nico Alligator

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Uriarte 1857
1414 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 15 5763 6300

Te Mataré Ramirez

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Gorriti 5054
Palermo SOHO between Thames and Serrano Streets
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4831 9156

Mosoq

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El Salvador 5800
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

5411 4775 7974

Day 3 - Buenos Aires

Saturday morning is a starts off with a look at the international art collection at Praxis, which has branches in New York and other major art centers. Check the exhibition schedule before heading over to Palais de Glace, the former ice skating rink-turned art space. Buenos Aires’ major fine arts competitions are displayed here, so depending on the date, you might get to see Buenos Aires Foto or the National Salon exhibition, among others. Just around the corner is Lola, a fine-dining establishment where the wine list is robust and the atmosphere is fit for royalty. Enjoy a champagne lunch here before wandering the halls and exhibition rooms at the Centro Cultural Borges, known to host everything from group shows curated by the city’s top gallerinas, to major retrospectives of international masters, to the annual World Press Photo show. Swing by the Museo de Arte Moderno, which is temporarily housed in the Correo Central (the central post office building) while its permanent home in San Telmo undergoes renovations for the third year running. The opening hours at this location vary so make sure to check online or call ahead so you don’t meet a locked door when you arrive. Your next stop is at Gran Bar Danzón, a chic wine bar with a great menu. From here, catch a cab down to the Faena Hotel and Universe in trendy Puerto Madero for a luxurious night in the posh Phillip Starcke fantasy hotel.

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Galería Praxis Arte Internacional

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Arenales 1311
1061 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4813 8639

Palais de Glace

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Posadas 1725
1112 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 48041163

Lola

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Roberto M. Ortiz 1805
At Guido
1113 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4804 5959 / 54 11 4802 3023

Centro Cultural Borges

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Viamonte esquina San Martín
Galerías Pacífico
1053 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 (0)11 5555 5359

Museo de Arte Moderno

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Avenida San Juan 350
1147 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4361 1121

Gran Bar Danzón

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Libertad 1161
1012 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4811 1108

Faena Hotel + Universe

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Martha Salotti 445
At Av. Juana Manso
C1107BDA Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4010 9000

Day 4 - Buenos Aires

Most of the city sleeps on Sunday, but you ought to rise bright and early and walk across Puerto Madero to the bustling Feria de San Telmo, the famed arts and antiques street fair. Catch a seat on the street-side white cushions at La Divina Comedia for a tasty bite and the market’s best people-watching. Cross to the north end of San Telmo for a look into the labyrinth-like Manzana de las Luces, the 17th century Jesuit refuge that houses the Mercado de las Luces, where local artisans vend their silver and copper jewelry, hand-bound books, and leather products. For dinner tonight, try La Farmacia, the house-like former pharmacy-turned eclectic restaurant, with bright red walls, moody lighting, and an assortment of funky paintings hanging on the walls. If the weather’s right, ask for a table on the rooftop terrace. When it’s time to turn in for the last night, a room at the Design Suites Hotel in Barrio Norte awaits. The slick design, featuring a reflecting pool in the center of the cement-and-glass lobby, is accented by rotating exhibitions by the artists from Galería 5006. All of the original works in the rooms are available for purchase as well, so be sure to inquire if something sparks your interest.

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San Pedro Telmo Antiques Fair

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Dorrego Square
Defensa and Humberto, 1
Buenos Aires, Argentina

La Divina Comedia

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Defensa 683
At Chile
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4300 2085

Manzana de las Luces

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Peru 272
1067 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4342 9930

La Farmacia

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Bolivar 898
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4300 6151

Design Suites Buenos Aires

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Alvear Marcelo T. De 1683
1060 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

-11 4814 8700

Day 5 - Buenos Aires

The last week of May brings the annual internationally-acclaimed art fair, ArteBA, which takes place in the vast La Rural complex in Plaza Italia. Every major gallery from Latin America is represented, all of the local celebrities make appearances (last year Cristina Kirchner popped in), and the champagne flows freely. Allow plenty of time to see the fair, and don’t bother with the map – you’ll get lost in the maze of booths regardless. If you aren’t totally wiped out after that whirlwind art fest, hop on the metro in Plaza Italia and take it a few stops to Juramento in Belgrano, to the Museo de Arte Español Enrique Larreta. Larreta, the Argentine writer, lived in this Spanish Renaissance-style palace during his lifetime, creating a divine space for displaying his collection of 16th and 17th century artworks. The museum is free on Thursdays, but will barely break the bank during the rest of the week with its AR$1 admission fee. Grab your lunch at Filo, the funky lunchtime hotspot in Microcentro that serves up some of the best bread and pizza in town, freshly baked in the giant clay oven in the back of the restaurant. From here you can walk down to the Fundación Federico Jorge Klemm, where the quirky collection ranges from Andy Warhol to Jeff Koons to Giorgio de Chirico, along with tons of works by contemporary Latin American artists. Pass on to the MALBA, Buenos Aires’ contemporary art pride and joy. The 3 museum levels present visitors with just enough major works to feel satisfied without becoming overwhelmed. Check the museum schedule to see what independent and art house films are playing in the theater, and make sure to drop into the MALBA shop, to see what kinds of purchasable creations local designers are coming up with. Take a break from the established artists at the Premio a Jóvenes Pintores, a competition for emerging Argentine painters, held at the Palais de Glace. Sit down for a multi-course dinner at Tomo I in the Hotel Panamericano, where ethnic cuisine-themed weeks, such as Indian and Tuscan, take place occasionally. Here every last detail, down to the presentation, is considered, making the final product a piece of art in itself.

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