Art in Buenos Aires

Our Local Expert Says:

Pick up the monthly CC Recoleta schedule in the lobby to see the listings of performances, exhibitions, film screenings, and classes offered at or sponsored by the center. There are also publications available here that list the cultural happenings all over the city.

Description:

Built in 1716 by the Franciscan Recoleto monks, this complex later served as a hospital during the English invasions. In 1928 it was reduced to make way for the expansion of the adjacent Recoleta Cemetery. Years later it became an asylum for over 800 homeless and elderly, until in 1978 it was destined for use as a cultural centre. The walls were fortified and painted in ochre and reddish tones, and it now bustles with cultural and educational activities for young and old. There is a small café, a gift shop and bookstore on the premises. Offices of the United Nations are also found here.

Description:

When your usual café and bar routine starts to get a little old, vary the repetition with an evening at Crack-Up, a tiny yet ambitious bookstore/café in hip Palermo Soho. Most books are in Spanish, but the collection of quirky art books and independent travel guides (many bilingual) is impressive, and the ever-present owners are quick to suggest a great read or tasty wine. Check out the events schedule to find out about the variety of happenings, such as live jazz or special fixed-menu dinners.

Description:

The museum and headquarters of the Pan Club Foundation is what used to be the residence of the late Xul Solar. It houses a permanent exposition of much of his works. The building's architectural layout is outstanding; it was especially designed by Architect Pablo Beitía with the aim of displaying the artist's work. The uneven back yard coincides with the house's old garden, while the interior communicates with the terrace and with the second floor, where Xul used to live. The simple furniture was designed by the artist himself. There is also a piano, some puppets, and an enormous library.

Xul Solar developed a versatile, eccentric personality, of great genius. This personality led him to perform on many disciplines: inventions, chess, astrologically-based tarot, a fuller-sounding piano with 3 rows of textured keys for people with sight impediments, architectural ideas in urbanism and landscaping, and even linguistics by creating the "neocriollo": a humorous mixture of Spanish and Portuguese. He attempted to found pan-universalism as a base in which people of every nation and religion could meet.

His greatest achievement was in painting. In this field he is renowned as predecessor in surrealism in a Latin American reality. With his small, colourful watercolours he uncovered a mysterious world of symbols (represented, for example, by arrows and stairs) and unveiled the path of surreal culture.

Description:

Specializing in Argentine art, the museum features a vast collection of paintings, sculptures, drawings, and tapestries. The museum features a huge room for its permanent exhibits, and another room for temporary exhibits, a sculpture garden, library, multiple purpose room, restoration and photograph department, cafeteria, and gift-shop. Temporary exhibits usually feature works by popular Argentine and Latin American artists. You can even attend courses and workshops on drawing, painting, sculpting, tapestry photography, restoration, papier-mâché and video making. The museum also organizes painting contests and seminars.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be put off if the tables all look full inside - the bar is huge and is the best seat in the house. Before 10pm on week nights is happy hour, which means 2-for-1 drink specials, and live music adds some noise

Description:

This French-style cafeteria is a favorite in Buenos Aires, especially at sunset. It constitutes a very special gathering point of youngsters. In the menu, mostly made up European Cuisine dishes, fish is a favorite. Live music shows and DJ presentations with avant-garde European music are in house. Superb menu items, superior drink preparations, and exclusive music selections are the highlights of the venue. There are many parties at night during the week. One of the most important ones is the Noche Francesa (French Night).

Description:

Located in a restored mansion and outfitted with modern art installations, Milion is a great place to meet friends for a drink or to take a date for dinner. Climb the grand staircase leading to the dimly lit main dining room and the crowded bar, or pass through this area to the outdoor courtyard, complete with open-air tables, lawn sculptures, torches, and a white tent for film screenings. The tables and bar area are a hotspot for young locals and travelers, so make reservations if you want to ensure a table.

Description:

Mott has a gourmet kitchen that can run with the best of them, but the mixed drinks really stand out among bars in Buenos Aires. In a city that swears by the wretchedly bitter Italian Fernet Branca, a well-made, creative cocktail is hard to come by. Mott features a rotating drink specials list, ranging from a frozen ginger mojito to a sour apple and basil martini. The open-air sofas on the elevated front deck offer a perfect people-watching platform, where, with fresh, smooth drink in hand, you will undoubtedly be the object of envy for passersby.

Description:

Dubbed a "designer bed and breakfast" by the owners, Malabia House is located in Palermo Soho in a century-old townhouse and former convent. Guests can choose from 11 rooms and 4 suites in this no-frills lodging that has everything you will need for a lovely stay, without some of the features that might draw you to another place with a pool or a spa. However, at Malabia House, the focus is on service, and the staff is more than willing to guide guests to some choice locations in the neighborhood.

Description:

If you appreciate art but find galleries to be somewhat intimidating or inaccessible, join the directors of Galeria 5006 for a peek into the studios of working artists. The tour begins in the funky lobby of the Design Suites Hotel, and from there you will be transported to up to four different studios in the Palermo area. Settle in on their couches or studio floors, help yourself to some coffee, and immerse yourself in the creative ambiance emanating from the artists, who range from feminist photographers to conceptual master painters. Afterwards, the tour comes to an end in the studio of Galeria 5006, where a catered lunch and a chance to purchase any of the work awaits. This is an extraordinary chance for anyone interested in art.

Description:

The traditional good taste of the Swedish is present in this unique restaurant located in the residential zone of Palermo. Located in what used to be a warehouse, Olsen has a sober yet elegant 1960s atmosphere. Choose between an impressive array of tasty Nordic dishes and appetizers. During the hot summer nights it would be a sin not to take advantage of the outdoor tables in the park to savor one of their many vodka drinks, with several high-end types of the spirit available from countries all around the world. This trendy spot is very popular with locals and tourist alike. All members of the staff speak perfect English as well.

Description:

This art gallery, dedicated to promoting independent thought in Latin American art, showcases the paintings and mixed media work, primarily of local artists. The works convey the feelings and thoughts of the artist, with a variety of themes. The gallery showcases Manuel Ameztoy, whose paintings depict situations that are a departure from reality. In contrast, Eloisa Ballivian's work depicts real life situations which give an insight into a woman's identity in society. Other important artists include Sibyl Cohen, Cristina Schiavi, Max Gomex Canle, Chino Soria, and Manuel Ameztoy.

Our Local Expert Says:

Located just a few blocks from the bustling Plaza Serrano, Nico Alligator is a rare no-frills gallery space that could interest everyone from the art connoisseur to the unknowing wanderer.

Description:

If you manage to get by the pit bull chained near the entrance (he seems to be more bark than bite), you will be pleasantly surprised by the quality of found-object artworks inside this huge, no-frills warehouse, which houses both the artist's studio and exhibition space. From materials such as old pipes, rusted hubcaps, and broken glass, Nico has formed figures that are wonderful positioned together or alone; choose from a twelve-inch dog-walker to a five-foot cupid, complete with bow and arrow. Prices are quite reasonable, but even just browsing is an entertaining event.

Description:

The owners of this restaurant have used all their experience and ingenuity in creating this imaginative restaurant. There is a distinctive style to the place, from the menu, to the decoration, right down to the name. Known to be frequented by some celebrities. Decorated in a vibrant and imaginative way. The atmosphere created is fun and the place is visited by people of all ages and styles. International cuisine that is innovative and created with much attention to detail. Suggestions: Seafood stew with ginger and oyster sauce; the crème brulle is also spectacular.

Description:

A good martini is a rarity in Buenos Aires. Just try and order one at nearly any bar in the city; your drink will be poured from a single bottle labeled "Martini," hardly a viable competitor in the mind of a true martini lover. Enter Mosoq, a martini bar/Peruvian restaurant extraordinaire, with a drool-worthy list of martini varieties, all prepared to perfection. The food, inspired by traditional Peruvian cuisine, isn't half bad, either.

Description:

Dubbed a "designer bed and breakfast" by the owners, Malabia House is located in Palermo Soho in a century-old townhouse and former convent. Guests can choose from 11 rooms and 4 suites in this no-frills lodging that has everything you will need for a lovely stay, without some of the features that might draw you to another place with a pool or a spa. However, at Malabia House, the focus is on service, and the staff is more than willing to guide guests to some choice locations in the neighborhood.

Description:

Founded in 1977, the gallery organizes exhibitions, international events, biennials and auctions while promoting up-and-coming artists. Its space is stocked with an appreciable amount of renowned artists which are well appraised by international collectors. Its expansion into other Latin American countries took it all the way to New York. Well-known for their international publishing house, it is also recognised in prestigious catalogues such as those of the Museum of the Americas in Washington and Christie's in London.

Description:

The 'Palace de Glace' of French influence was constructed for the sole purpose of practicing ice skating. With time, this place started welcoming tango dancers, an idea that did not go down well with the elite crowd. When Baron de Marhi organized a celebration in his gallery to approve the dance, this form of art gained acceptance in the high Buenosarian society. Thus it started growing in prestige until in 1932 it became a museum and hall for exhibitions of matchless reputation with the presence of artists such as Perez Célis. Its dance floor is surrounded by theatre boxes and a confectionary and bar!

Description:

A combination of classic, elegant and modern decor, this place is considered to be one of the trendiest restaurants in Buenos Aires. Celebrities from the world of cinema and fashion frequent it, and it is the place to live it up—an evening at "Lola" starts with a glass of champagne at the bar. The works of Hermenegildo Sabat gracing the dining room walls accent the French and European cuisine. Try the Nahuel Trout with pine nuts, mushrooms and croquete potatoes; or the tomato and vegetable mousse with crunchy celery.

Description:

The fundamental intention is to present a precise panorama of modern culture in a context of quality and coherence. The visual arts, design and media are given a space here in the arena of the Galerías Pacífico (Pacific Shopping Gallery) without leaving aside the art of tango, photography or fine arts. Exhibits, auctions and international competitions are held here in this space named after the Argentine literary icon, Jorge Luis Borges. There are scheduled literary-café chats, music cycles and video projections. Julio Bocca's dance studio is housed here as well. There is a gift boutique, coffee shop and bookstore.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you venture to this part of San Telmo, consider stopping into the little Museo del Cine, located directly next door to the Museo de Arte Moderno.

Description:

Opened in 1989, the museum is set in what once was a cigarette factory. It features a façade made of English red brick and an enormous entrance door made of wood and iron. It houses a fine collection of modern art (with a Latin American slant) such as the panoramas of Pompeyo Audivert´s, and Luis Seoane´s graphic works, as well as some 1,500 art pieces among which are illustrations, scene sketches, photographs, and tapestries.

Description:

This trendy establishment specializes in fine wines served by the glass. There is a vast list of drinks, cocktails and coffees, very original because of the combination of ingredients used in their preparation, such as cinnamon, chocolate and mint. The relaxed atmosphere is modern and elegant, with comfortable sofas and pleasant music. The bar serves more than 150 different alcoholic beverages. The food selection is not vast, but nevertheless exquisite and of high quality. A very cosmopolitan place where you can mingle with the beautiful and the successful, or meet friends for a good meal or drink. It stays quite busy until late hours.

Our Local Expert Says:

If Buenos Aires wasn't such a great city, you would literally not have to ever leave the Faena, thanks to the in-house bistro, beauty salon, bar, boutiques, spa, cabaret theatre, gourmet grocery, swimming pool, lounge, restaurant, and business center.

Description:

Eighteen carat gold leaf swan chairs and deep red velvet curtains give you a glimpse of this fine hotel's interiors. Be it a business trip, a vacation or special events, the Faena Hotel and Universe is your perfect pick. A heavenly melange of extraordinary service, excellent food, gracious comfort and beautiful surroundings has earned this hotel critical acclaim. With the dizzying array of facilities, services and amenities, you're guaranteed of the most flawless stay.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Sunday fair also features a huge variety of clothes and accessories from local designers at a fraction of the price of similar things in Palermo. Be sure to venture down side streets to have a look in the stalls.

Description:

The San Pedro Telmo Antiques Fair is held every Sunday and the streets of charming San Telmo are extremely lively during the fair. Tourists can have a gala time, as there are tons of activities to choose from. Enjoy live performances by musicians or tango with the dancers. If you are in the mood for some shopping, check out the antiques and handicrafts sold here.

Description:

This fashionable bi-level space, inspired by Dante's masterpiece, caters to both the angel on your right shoulder and the devil whispering into your left ear. For an innocent café con leche with gooey chocolate cake or fresh caprese salad, pull up a plush stool in the peaceful sky-blue "heaven" upstairs. At night, indulge your sinful side in the dark red-hued "hell" downstairs, where you'll find French DJs on the turntables and locals smoking and sipping champagne in shadowy corners. On Sundays, there's no finer people-watching perch than La DC's outdoor seating - the elegant white furnishings borrowed, naturally, from heaven.

Description:

You will marvel at the 17th century architecture of the Manzana de las Lucas and the mysterious underground tunnels that worked as secret passages. Speculation regarding the original use of these tunnels still remains! Its interesting history began in 1675 with the construction of the Church of San Ignacio and the Colegio de la Compañía by the Jesuit monks. Meant to be a centre for higher learning, and headquarters for Jesuit land holdings, the first medical school was also set up here.

Description:

This fashionable, gay-friendly eatery and art space occupies an antique building on the corner of a very desirable San Telmo intersection. Ascend the creaky wooden steps to find cozy nooks with black polka-dot tablecloths, red walls, and dramatic track lighting illuminating whimsical paintings. Succulent, unusual dishes like black spaghetti with seafood, trilla fish in white wine sauce, and salmon-stuffed ravioli, all stylishly presented on square white ceramic plates, evoke exclamations from the diverse clientele. Try to snag a table by one of the wrought iron balconies, complete with charming original glass panes, for choice views of the busy street below.

Our Local Expert Says:

One perk to staying at Design Suites is the in-house art gallery, sponsored by notable Galeria 5006, with rotating exhibitions and installations, as well as exhibition opening parties in the lobby to which all are invited.

Description:

• Overlooking a bustling square, this Buenos Aires hotel is one block from Santa Fe Avenue and Callao Avenue.

• Design Suites guestrooms offer contemporary furnishings and hardwood floors. Large windows allow plenty of light.

• The hotel offers a restaurant and lounge, an indoor pool with a skylight, and complimentary access to a nearby gym.

Description:

Located in an area that was once home to summer vacationers, this museum has a style unique to Buenos Aires. Here, one cannot escape the roar of the Moorish fountains. Mercedes Castellanos de Anchorena acquired it in 1892. Later she donated the museum to her daughter, Josefina, upon her marriage to Enrique Larreta (1873-1961). The museum became Larreta's permanent residence, where he would work and live until his death on July 6, 1961. After this date, the city purchased the property and founded the Museum of Spanish Art. The building's neocolonial architecture is truly representative of Argentina's national identity. Its exterior is a classic Baroque style, with the simplicity of its walls contrasting with its intricate facades.

Description:

Filo is one of the bars with more scotch varieties in Buenos Aires (67, so far). Among its clientele are a crowd of intellectuals, bohemians, and the crowd of Filo regulars (an almost mythical spot in Buenos Aires). Recent visitors include Fura del Baus and Madonna (who showed up undercover, of course). Happy hour for all alcoholic beverages, and the ambience never lacks a touch of jazz. And don't miss the art gallery in the basement.

Description:

Federico Klemm's Foundation exhibits retrospectives and group shows and is active both locally and internationally. With a view to joining the philosophical and aesthetic theories of art, Klemm has set it upon himself to stimulate young talent through announcing different cultural events and activities through his television broadcasts and publications. The foundation has a permanent collection of works including Botero, Rivera, Forner, Picasso and Xul Solar, among others. There is a large space in the back for auctions and seminars. The facilities, lighting and ventilation system are optimum.

Our Local Expert Says:

Look up the events calendar online to keep up to date on the variety of performances, film screenings (including English-language films), and exhibition openings happening every week. If you don't have anything special in mind, go on Wednesday when admission is discounted to 5 pesos.

Description:

Founded in 2001 and started with just the permanent collection owned by its director, Eduardo Constantini, MALBA aims at promoting Latin American art in all its disciplines. Constantini donated to this post-modern gallery works of art that take us on a journey through the history of Spanish American art, from the beginning of its avant-garde movement at the turn of the century to the present. The collection is arranged in such a way to expose the similarities as well as the differences between the artists, other than in chronological order. There are workshops, children activities, temporary exhibitions and work experience for students. Own car park. Free admission.

Description:

Ada Concaro is the powerhouse behind the history and development of this establishment. She is renowned for her creativity in turning typical homemade dishes into edible works of art. The restaurant boasts a sunlit room with a good view. Quiet and spacious surroundings enhance the dining experience. Some inventive menu items include: spaghetti au gratin with olive oil, capers, anchovies and olives; cream of zucchini and pine nuts; lamb with artichokes; pickled aubergenes; shrimp chupe (a typical spicy soup with shrimps) and chicken liver with pistachios. The spinach ravioli with tomato sauce, butter and sage, and the warm pear pie both stand out. There is an optional bistro menu, consisting of a starter, a main course, wine and coffee, all at a fixed price. Should you prefer to order a la carte. Advanced booking recommended. Air-conditioned.