Buenos Aires Essentials: 24 Hours

Our Local Expert Says:

.Eating in el Caminito can be very expensive and of poor quality because you are mostly charged for the tango performances during your meal. You might consider sitting at an outdoor café for a drink instead, and you can watch all of the street shows for free.

Description:

This open-air "museum" brings the brushstrokes of painter Benito Quinquela Martín to life in its colors, sculptures and ceramics. In fact, more than a museum, it is an art market where a constant exhibit of works inspired by the surrounding port area and neighborhood are sold. A stroll through here is sure to thrill the tourist for its uniqueness and air of bohemia. Humble dwellings painted in vibrant colors frame the pedestrian street known as el Caminito and immortalized in a tango tune of the same name. Its first inhabitants were the working-class Genoese immigrants who settled along this path, which led from the river to the railroad tracks and is now home to innovative artists. Italian cantinas can be found in the surrounding vicinity near the port area.

Description:

These picturesque city blocks run along the edge of the winding river inlet Riachuelo, in the famous port neighborhood of La Boca. Genoese immigrants, settling here in the early 1900s, built their housing on elevated sidewalks as a precaution against flooding. Wrought iron balconies characterize these dwellings, painted in spectacular colors, originally from leftover paint from the dockyard ships. Together with the port and the railroad, Vuelta de Rocha, comprises a unique district, rich in immigrant history and heritage.

Our Local Expert Says:

A lovely way to spend an early morning or late evening is to stroll from Plaza de Mayo down the grand Avenida de Mayo, a wide avenue parading some of the most magnificent architecture in Buenos Aires. With antique street lamps and grand old cafes, Avenida de Mayo retains the elegance of a past era. Walk until you get to Plaza de Congreso, another equally beautiful plaza with a daytime market located about ten blocks from the Casa Rosada.

Description:

Founded by Juan de Garay in 1580, this is the original centre of the city. The city's first monument, Pirámide de Mayo, is situated at its centre. Important institutions flank the plaza: the Casa Rosada (Pink Government House), Banco de la Nación (Nation's Bank), Catedral Metropolitana and Cabildo (Town Hall). Internationally known for the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, women gather here in a silent vigil, every Thursday at 3pm to claim justice for their "disappeared" during the military rule in the 1980s.

Description:

The original structure of the Metropolitan Cathedral was built in 1745; it was given a new facade with carvings telling the story of Jacob and his son Joseph and was designated a cathedral in 1836. The look of the cathedral was changed from a traditional Spanish colonial look to a Greek-revival style at that time, with a pediment and colonnade in front, though the sides, back, and exterior dome remain similar to the original. Inside lies an ornate mausoleum containing the remains of General José de San Martín, the South American liberator regarded as the "Father of the Nation." (San Martín fought successfully for freedom in Argentina, Peru, and Chile alongside the better-known Simón Bolívar.) His body was moved here in 1880 to become a rallying symbol of Argentina's unification and rise to greatness when Buenos Aires became the capital of Argentina at the end of a long civil war. The tomb of the unknown soldier of Argentine independence is also here, and an eternal flame burns in remembrance. Among the chapels of note is the one on the east side of the cathedral with a statue of Jesus with the notation, "Santo Cristo del Gran Amor," or the Holy Christ of Great Love. It was donated in...

Description:

Guided tours of the Governor's offices and Cabinet meeting rooms allow visitors to learn about the history of the building. In addition, the guides give in-depth explanations of the city's three shields that are painted above the lobby entrance. You can also witness the changing of the guards here every half-hour during the weekends. These guards are members of the oldest Argentine regiment who fought against the English invaders in 1806.

Our Local Expert Says:

Tortoni's tango show is one of the more authentic, less pricey shows in town. Call ahead to make reservations.

Description:

This café has formed part of the Porteño landscape since 1858. A shrine to local tango culture, it houses the Academia Nacional del Tango and stages performances as well as literary events in the basement. Legendary literati such as the disquieting poets Argentine, Alfonsina Storni and Spanish Federico García Lorca gathered here. Porteño bohemia and nostalgia fuse here over a game of chess, domino and billiards. Chocolate con Churros (hot cocoa and deep fried batter) are a traditional Argentine breakfast.

Our Local Expert Says:

For about a dollar you can purchase a map of the cemetery from vendors at the entrance. It will prove to be quite useful when you find yourself in the maze inside.

Description:

This cemetery was a church graveyard until 1882 when the Governor opened it to the general public and renamed it Cemetery of the North. Small, and situated on the city's most valuable land, its importance resides in the many illustrious people that rest here. One of the most visited tombstones is Eva Peron's. The majority of materials used in the construction of tombs between 1880 and 1930 were imported from Paris and Milan, and important sculptural works grace many of the tombs.

Our Local Expert Says:

Pick up the monthly CC Recoleta schedule in the lobby to see the listings of performances, exhibitions, film screenings, and classes offered at or sponsored by the center. There are also publications available here that list the cultural happenings all over the city.

Description:

Built in 1716 by the Franciscan Recoleto monks, this complex later served as a hospital during the English invasions. In 1928 it was reduced to make way for the expansion of the adjacent Recoleta Cemetery. Years later it became an asylum for over 800 homeless and elderly, until in 1978 it was destined for use as a cultural centre. The walls were fortified and painted in ochre and reddish tones, and it now bustles with cultural and educational activities for young and old. There is a small café, a gift shop and bookstore on the premises. Offices of the United Nations are also found here.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be fooled by San Telmo's reputation as the "old neighborhood." While crumbling buildings abound, this place is now buzzing with hip new cafes, bars, and restaurants featuring a huge variety of cuisine, along with a wealth of independent designers opening up shops all along Defensa.

Description:

In 1871, with the outbreak of Yellow Fever, these mansions were soon overtaken by squatters, creating the city's historic conventillos (tenement houses). It was not until 1970 that an edict stipulated protection for property owners. Today the neighborhood of San Pedro Telmo is an important historic corner of the city. Locals and tourists alike flock to the Plaza Dorrego on the oldest street in the city, for the antique market and vibrant street performances, including tango. On the corner of Independencia and Balcarce streets is El Viejo Almacén, a traditional tango establishment.

Description:

All of the decadent parrilla delicacies you can find in San Telmo's more basic neighborhood joints are on offer at this comparatively upscale restaurant. The elegant dining room, illuminated by white candles, shows off the selection of Argentinean wines displayed on racks lining the walls. The gloriously professional wait staff is notably unobtrusive, gliding through the restaurant; their trays piled high with tender roasts, fresh salads, and provoleta worth writing home about. Appropriate for either an overdue romantic rendezvous or a business meeting, La Brigada brings a touch of refinement to a casual dining scene in a down-to-earth neighborhood.