Begin the tour in the city’s main square, Plaza de Mayo, the spot where political demonstrations, past and present, gain the most recognition from the government. From here catch a cab right down to Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires’ youngest and chicest neighborhood located along the old port dikes. Have a bite to eat on the patio overlooking the water at El Mirasol, then cross over the architectural marvel of a bridge that spans dike 2, the Puente de la Mujer. On the other side of Puerto Madero is the Reserva Ecológica, the vast riverside nature reserve. Bikes can be rented on the weekends just outside the entrance, but if it’s a weekday, walking the labyrinth of paths is just as pleasant. The riverfront pebble beaches tend to be lined with families picnicking and sunbathing, so join right in if the sun is high in the sky. Next cross over to San Telmo’s European-style Plaza Dorrego. Have a leisurely coffee at Bar Dorrego’s outdoor tables while watching tango dancers take a spin around the square to live music. Add some excitement to the laid-back afternoon by taking part in the fervor of Buenos Aires, soccer. River Plate plays in Nuñez, a residential suburb just to the north of Belgrano. Enjoy the exhilaration of the national sport but watch your pockets and keep an eye on the fans who can be inclined to lose control of their fists when things don’t quite go their way. Turn in for the night at Hostel Ostinatto in San Telmo, a design hostel if there ever was one. Share a drink with the owner on the kitchen balcony overlooking the street, or join other guests up on the rooftop terrace for a dip in the wading pool if the night is warm.

Start your Saturday by walking up to Plaza de los Dos Congresos, located in the eponymous neighborhood, Congreso. Stroll around the weekend market that has a variety of antiques and collectible items, such as used books, costume jewelry, vintage clothing, coins, posters, and vinyl records. From here catch a cab to Retiro’s Mitre train station, where you can catch the Mitre line to connect to the Tren de la Costa, the riverside train line that will run you to Tigre. Tigre is a beautiful delta town located about an hour to the north of Capital Federal, and has a lovely produce and furniture market close to the train station. Poke around a little bit before backtracking to the station and buying your passes into Parque de la Costa, South America’s largest amusement park. Once your stomach has had enough of the twisting and turning roller coasters of Parque de la Costa, settle down for some lunch at Cabana de La Lopeza, an Argentine restaurant with outdoor seating. Catch the Tren de la Costa back in the direction of Buenos Aires a few stops to San Isidro, a picturesque riverfront town with a beautiful Gothic cathedral at its center. San Isidro is home to a wealthy population who enjoy their leisure activities, especially the San Isidro Golf Club, where day guests can hit a few rounds. Before heading back to Buenos Aires proper, take in a race or two at the world-famous (and one of the world’s largest) racetrack, the Hipodromo de San Isidro. Catch the Tren de la Costa back to Capital Federal and head from Retiro over to Plaza Francia, the large green plaza in Recoleta, facing the Centro Cultural Recoleta and the Recoleta Cemetary. Saturdays host a lively market, with jewelry, clothing, and arts vendors crisscrossing the paths and grass in the plaza. When the sun sets and dinner time rolls around, walk over to Milion, a 15-minute stroll from Plaza Francia. Choose from a variety of tasty South American dishes and a long list of creative cocktails and take a seat in the candlelit courtyard behind this beautiful restored mansion. Nighttime events in Buenos Aires begin much later than in North America, so you’ll need to kill a few more hours before venturing out to the club - try the rooftop terrace at Kimia, located on Santa Fe in Palermo. Once 3am rolls around, it’ll be high time to get yourself to Pacha, the soul of the Buenos Aires night scene. The dance floor will become packed as the night goes on, so move out to the patio, overlooking the Rio de la Plata (be sure not to miss the sunrise over the water – it’s spectacular). By the time the clock hits 9am or the DJs pull off their headsets (whichever comes first), you’ll be more than ready to turn in back at Ostinatto.

After the night you had last night, starting out with a slow Sunday morning will sound like music to your ears. Start with a stroll through the Feria de San Telmo, or the San Pedro Telmo Antiques Fair, which runs from sunrise to sunset Sundays throughout the year. Begin by walking down Defensa from Avenida Belgrano towards Parque Lezama, stopping to poke around through the vendors’ wares and to take in some live tango music and dance. Take a seat on the outdoor poofs at La Divina Comedia, where you can enjoy a fresh salad or a fruity smoothie while watching the passersby. Afterwards, continue on down through the market to Parque Lezama, where the density of vendors tapers off and gives way to lazy sunbathers and old folks playing chess. If your hunger strikes up again, consider lunching on the rooftop terrace of El Balcon, peacefully high above the craziness of the Sunday market in Plaza Dorrego. Make sure to ask for a terrace seat, because upon walking in, it won't be plainly evident that there even IS a terrace. For a change of scene, catch the bus from San Telmo out to the western neighborhood of Mataderos, where the Sunday gaucho festival features live music and dancers, Northern Argentine cuisine, gauchos playing traditional games on horseback, and some of the most finely-crafted leather and silver goods for the most competitive prices. The hour-long bus ride is well worth the trip for this most authentic experience of traditional Argentine culture. Catch the bus back to the city center and take a cab or the subway up to Home Hotel in Palermo for the night. This hotel is a longtime favorite of many visitors to Buenos Aires, proven by consistent returns, year after year. Home has a notable restaurant and bar, which serve at the poolside. Weekend nights feature DJs on the pool deck and parties mixing well-known locals and foreigners lucky enough to get invited.