Discovering Buenos Aires: A Guide for First-Timer's

Our Local Expert Says:

A lovely way to spend an early morning or late evening is to stroll from Plaza de Mayo down the grand Avenida de Mayo, a wide avenue parading some of the most magnificent architecture in Buenos Aires. With antique street lamps and grand old cafes, Avenida de Mayo retains the elegance of a past era. Walk until you get to Plaza de Congreso, another equally beautiful plaza with a daytime market located about ten blocks from the Casa Rosada.

Description:

Founded by Juan de Garay in 1580, this is the original centre of the city. The city's first monument, Pirámide de Mayo, is situated at its centre. Important institutions flank the plaza: the Casa Rosada (Pink Government House), Banco de la Nación (Nation's Bank), Catedral Metropolitana and Cabildo (Town Hall). Internationally known for the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, women gather here in a silent vigil, every Thursday at 3pm to claim justice for their "disappeared" during the military rule in the 1980s.

Description:

This monument was inaugurated on May 25th, 1811 to commemorate the May Revolution (1810). The master mason, Cañete, constructed a 15-meter tall obelisk of adobe bricks surrounded by railings. In 1856 the monument underwent some remodeling: bricks and plaster were added to increase its volume. A statue of a woman symbolizing the new Republic was also set atop it, while allegorical sculptures reprsenting the arts, agriculture and sciences were positioned around the base. In 1884, new land development projects called for the monument to be relocated to its present site.

Description:

The original structure of the Metropolitan Cathedral was built in 1745; it was given a new facade with carvings telling the story of Jacob and his son Joseph and was designated a cathedral in 1836. The look of the cathedral was changed from a traditional Spanish colonial look to a Greek-revival style at that time, with a pediment and colonnade in front, though the sides, back, and exterior dome remain similar to the original. Inside lies an ornate mausoleum containing the remains of General José de San Martín, the South American liberator regarded as the "Father of the Nation." (San Martín fought successfully for freedom in Argentina, Peru, and Chile alongside the better-known Simón Bolívar.) His body was moved here in 1880 to become a rallying symbol of Argentina's unification and rise to greatness when Buenos Aires became the capital of Argentina at the end of a long civil war. The tomb of the unknown soldier of Argentine independence is also here, and an eternal flame burns in remembrance. Among the chapels of note is the one on the east side of the cathedral with a statue of Jesus with the notation, "Santo Cristo del Gran Amor," or the Holy Christ of Great Love. It was donated in...

Description:

Guided tours of the Governor's offices and Cabinet meeting rooms allow visitors to learn about the history of the building. In addition, the guides give in-depth explanations of the city's three shields that are painted above the lobby entrance. You can also witness the changing of the guards here every half-hour during the weekends. These guards are members of the oldest Argentine regiment who fought against the English invaders in 1806.

Our Local Expert Says:

Tortoni's tango show is one of the more authentic, less pricey shows in town. Call ahead to make reservations.

Description:

This café has formed part of the Porteño landscape since 1858. A shrine to local tango culture, it houses the Academia Nacional del Tango and stages performances as well as literary events in the basement. Legendary literati such as the disquieting poets Argentine, Alfonsina Storni and Spanish Federico García Lorca gathered here. Porteño bohemia and nostalgia fuse here over a game of chess, domino and billiards. Chocolate con Churros (hot cocoa and deep fried batter) are a traditional Argentine breakfast.

Our Local Expert Says:

Check out the plaza on weekends when the flea market is in full swing to browse through a great selection of antique housewares, used books (some are in English), and old coins from all over South America.

Description:

Named for its location directly across from the National Congress Building, this plaza contains a large monolith that represents the start (Km 0) for all its national highways. This plaza almost encompasses three city blocks (its western-most point along Ave. de Mayo), and is an ideal place for recreation and rest. One of the city's best and most valuable sculptures is a bronze reproduction of "The Thinker" by Auguste Rodin, which can be found inside the plaza.

Description:

All of the decadent parrilla delicacies you can find in San Telmo's more basic neighborhood joints are on offer at this comparatively upscale restaurant. The elegant dining room, illuminated by white candles, shows off the selection of Argentinean wines displayed on racks lining the walls. The gloriously professional wait staff is notably unobtrusive, gliding through the restaurant; their trays piled high with tender roasts, fresh salads, and provoleta worth writing home about. Appropriate for either an overdue romantic rendezvous or a business meeting, La Brigada brings a touch of refinement to a casual dining scene in a down-to-earth neighborhood.

Our Local Expert Says:

One perk to staying at Design Suites is the in-house art gallery, sponsored by notable Galeria 5006, with rotating exhibitions and installations, as well as exhibition opening parties in the lobby to which all are invited.

Description:

• Overlooking a bustling square, this Buenos Aires hotel is one block from Santa Fe Avenue and Callao Avenue.

• Design Suites guestrooms offer contemporary furnishings and hardwood floors. Large windows allow plenty of light.

• The hotel offers a restaurant and lounge, an indoor pool with a skylight, and complimentary access to a nearby gym.

Our Local Expert Says:

Venture up Corrientes past the intersection with Calle Pueyrredon to visit El Abasto, a modern mall located inside of the former central produce market of Buenos Aires. The building itself is worth walking the length of Corrientes to see.

Description:

This avenue used to be the centre of Porteño nightlife and retains the initial bohemia immortalized in popular lore. In the 1930s it was widened and numerous cinemas, theatres, and restaurants quickly lined its sidewalks. Antique, rare and used bookstores are clustered here as well, interspersed with the traditional Porteño cafés. Exchange houses are easily located along this avenue for the many tourists who flock here. The Obelisco (Obelisk) and this famous avenue constitute the city's icons and the typical picture postcard view of Buenos Aires.

Description:

This monolith is a meeting place for political demonstrations, musical performances and celebrations over victories of the national soccer team. It was dedicated in 1936 to commemorate the anniversary of Buenos Aires first foundation. It measures 70 meters high and is made of reinforced concrete. In its interior a 200-hundred-step stairway is used to perform maintenance jobs from the top. The obelisk brightens with white lights at night, although, the gleams of surrounding neon billboards is what gives the area its unique and colorful glow.

Our Local Expert Says:

The theater underwent renovations, with the grand re-opening occurring on the 100th anniversary of the building. Schedules are available online at the theaters’ websites.

Description:

Inaugurated on May 25, 1908 with the opera 'Aida' by Giuseppe Verdi, its architecture reflects the Italian Renaissance. The elaborate plaster mouldings, stained glass dome, sweeping staircase, sculpted busts with gold-leaf details, frescoes, French furnishings and gargantuan chandelier in the theatre hall are some of the elements which create the unparalleled opulence. Despite much needed structural maintenance, the acoustics are difficult to surpass. Some 2,500-theatre goers experience some of the world's finest ballet along with the Colón's own Ballet Estable, Filarmónica symphony orchestra and opera during seasonal performances. Guided tours are available during the week by telephone, or through the website.

Description:

Located in a restored mansion and outfitted with modern art installations, Milion is a great place to meet friends for a drink or to take a date for dinner. Climb the grand staircase leading to the dimly lit main dining room and the crowded bar, or pass through this area to the outdoor courtyard, complete with open-air tables, lawn sculptures, torches, and a white tent for film screenings. The tables and bar area are a hotspot for young locals and travelers, so make reservations if you want to ensure a table.

Description:

This academy is located in the palacio Carlos Gardel, on top of the Café Tortoni. It is one of the 18 national academies of tango. It also has various franchises in the provinces the USA, and Europe. The Liceo Superior of the Academia offers 24 different courses during three years, at which end students get a Bachelor of Arts degree (or equivalent) in Tango. At the same time, it offers tango dance lessons. An intensive theoretical and practical course in Tango is also available for foreigners visiting Buenos Aires.

Our Local Expert Says:

One perk to staying at Design Suites is the in-house art gallery, sponsored by notable Galeria 5006, with rotating exhibitions and installations, as well as exhibition opening parties in the lobby to which all are invited.

Description:

• Overlooking a bustling square, this Buenos Aires hotel is one block from Santa Fe Avenue and Callao Avenue.

• Design Suites guestrooms offer contemporary furnishings and hardwood floors. Large windows allow plenty of light.

• The hotel offers a restaurant and lounge, an indoor pool with a skylight, and complimentary access to a nearby gym.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't worry about bringing your own picnic - the food vendors are plentiful, serving up local specialties such as choripan, a tasty sausage sandwich. There are also lots of drinks and ice cream available.

Description:

Originally owned by Governor Rosas, this park opened to the public in 1874. Visit the Jardín de los Poetas, with sculptures of famous writers such as Alfonsina Storni, Félix Amador, Paul Groussac and Enrique Larreta. Enjoy the Rosedal where the colorful roses are kept. Other features include pergolas, bridges, fountains, seats, street lamps and a magnificent array of sculptures. Many activities are available at the lake, including rowing and pedal boats. These woods are the preferred choice for local joggers and bicyclers.

Our Local Expert Says:

Be sure to stop into the pagoda at the far end of the gardens. There is a Japanese cultural center there, along with a tea and sushi house. Directly behind that is a nursery with all kinds of exotic plants and fish for sale.

Description:

Amidst Palermo lies this lovely oriental park filled with fish ponds, large stands of bamboo, a beautifully crafted arched bridge and a traditional Japanese tearoom. Inaugurated in 1967 by Japanese immigrants, its current layout was designed by famed landscape artist Yasuo Onomata to resemble the surroundings of a Zen temple. The garden's five acres are occupied for the most part by an artificial lake filled with exotic fish. This place feels especially intimate because, unlike most green spaces in Buenos Aires, it's sheltered by thick foliage. The flora is composed of over 150 different species, the majority of which have been brought directly from Japan.

Description:

The botanical gardens take up a wide acreage in Plaza Italia, adjacent to the zoo and the La Rural complex. Visitors can stroll on lovely pebble paths through the variety of foliage, notably the prickly cactus garden and the steamy greenhouses. The real highlight of the gardens, though, is the cats. Hundreds of cats dwell in the gardens year-round, lazily basking in the sun and entertaining visitors. This is a wonderful place to bring kids.

Description:

Since 2002, this museum offers a marvelous glimpse at the life of arguably the most remarkable woman in Argentinean history, Eva Duarte de Peron. Divided across thirteen exhibition rooms you'll find an amazing array of items that chronicle her journey from humble young actress to popular first lady committed to help the poor and destitute. Soothing ambient music and several interesting audiovisual displays (English subtitles are always available) help round out an enjoyable and inspirational experience. There is also a nice, comfy resto-bar inside the premises. Guided tours in English are available and highly recommended.

Description:

This is one of the most interesting milongas. It is authentic, but it attracts a very young crowd of Porteños and expats who have come from all over the world to dance their lives away in Buenos Aires, where the living is good and cheap. Many nights it is just a milonga. Other nights host shows and competitions, many involving tango, folkloric, and modern dance. La Viruta is in the cellar of the Armenian Community Center. When decorated with balloons for some events, it looks a little like a high school prom from the 1970s.

Our Local Expert Says:

One perk to staying at Design Suites is the in-house art gallery, sponsored by notable Galeria 5006, with rotating exhibitions and installations, as well as exhibition opening parties in the lobby to which all are invited.

Description:

• Overlooking a bustling square, this Buenos Aires hotel is one block from Santa Fe Avenue and Callao Avenue.

• Design Suites guestrooms offer contemporary furnishings and hardwood floors. Large windows allow plenty of light.

• The hotel offers a restaurant and lounge, an indoor pool with a skylight, and complimentary access to a nearby gym.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be fooled by San Telmo's reputation as the "old neighborhood." While crumbling buildings abound, this place is now buzzing with hip new cafes, bars, and restaurants featuring a huge variety of cuisine, along with a wealth of independent designers opening up shops all along Defensa.

Description:

In 1871, with the outbreak of Yellow Fever, these mansions were soon overtaken by squatters, creating the city's historic conventillos (tenement houses). It was not until 1970 that an edict stipulated protection for property owners. Today the neighborhood of San Pedro Telmo is an important historic corner of the city. Locals and tourists alike flock to the Plaza Dorrego on the oldest street in the city, for the antique market and vibrant street performances, including tango. On the corner of Independencia and Balcarce streets is El Viejo Almacén, a traditional tango establishment.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Sunday fair also features a huge variety of clothes and accessories from local designers at a fraction of the price of similar things in Palermo. Be sure to venture down side streets to have a look in the stalls.

Description:

The San Pedro Telmo Antiques Fair is held every Sunday and the streets of charming San Telmo are extremely lively during the fair. Tourists can have a gala time, as there are tons of activities to choose from. Enjoy live performances by musicians or tango with the dancers. If you are in the mood for some shopping, check out the antiques and handicrafts sold here.

Description:

Parque Lezama is located at the southern border of San Telmo, and is a wonderful way to spend a sunny afternoon. With a view of the bright blue onion domes of the Russian Basilica, lazy tree-lined paths, antique marble fountains, and groups of men crowded around the built-in stone chess boards every afternoon, this park recalls a past time when time moved a little bit slower.

Description:

This historic museum was once a summer home to the Italian Lezama family. It contains beautiful gardens and a huge porch adorned with old canoes. For water, the residence still uses the old well found on the property. This museum is one of the oldest and most important in all of the country. Its 33 rooms and three galleries display in chronological order dozens of items about the history of Argentina. Such items include personal belongings from explorers and conquerors, swords, Juan de Garay's land maps, belongings from Jesuit missionaries, indigenous art, Spanish flags captured in the Suipacha Battle and in Montevideo in 1814, uniforms, honorary medals, furniture of Gral. San Martín, the painting by Merceditas, "Retrato de la Bandera". Entrance is free, and donations are welcome.

Our Local Expert Says:

Right next door to the church is the beautiful Penitentiary Museum, located inside of the former women's prison that is now located near Ezezia airport. For a peso, you can see restored cells and prison offices, as well as a random little art gallery with rotating exhibitions.

Description:

The Parroquia San Pedro Telmo was built by the Jesuits in 1734 and its protection was entrusted to 'San Pedro Telmo'. It has two important bell towers and a statue of the saint in the front. Its interiors with a Latin American cross and three ships emphasize the image of Our Lady of Bethlehem and San Rafael of Archangel. It has a valuable organ, old pictures and a clock donated by English officials. Entrance is free.

Our Local Expert Says:

When the antiques stalls are taken down at sunset on Sundays, take a seat at an outdoor café in the plaza and watch as the locals slowly drift in to create an outdoor milonga, or tango hall. The spectacle rivals just about any overpriced tango show.

Description:

This historic plaza was the sight of the swearing of National Independence in 1816 before Don Juan Martín de Pueyrredón. During the colony, it was a resting post for wagons travelling from the port to what is now Plaza de Mayo along the first roadway, known today as Calle Defensa. Today it is the site of the San Pedro Telmo Antique Fair, where street performances by tango dancers, musicians, mimes and colourful characters mingle with the painters, antiquarians and street vendors in a bohemian rhapsody of song, dance and nostalgia. Ramble the colonial cobblestone streets of the Barrio de San Telmo to Avenida Independencia and Balcarce, to see El Viejo Almacén from the early colonial days, now a traditional tango bar/restaurant.

Our Local Expert Says:

Bar Dorrego is especially atmospheric on Sunday evenings, when the antiques market comes down and the milonga begins in the plaza. The square hums with tango dancers searching for the right partner for the evening, and spectators who drift in to watch and enjoy a nightcap from the bar's outdoor tables.

Description:

In a traditional corner of Buenos Aires, with a rich colonial past, Bar Plaza Dorrego boasts of a melting pot clientele of visitors from all over the world. It was the first bar in Buenos Aires, established in 1881. In its hey days the bar decoration was considered sumptuous. Today, this busy spot has lost some of its former splendor but it still manages to keep the charm and simplicity of the old days. Pictures of celebrities such as Borges and Gardel, who used to stop by, are hanging on its walls. Like in most bars in Buenos Aires, you have a menu with a good selection of alcoholic beverages and coffees. The beer comes with a side of roasted peanuts and the coffee with shortbread cookies. Before leaving, you may carve your name for posterity in one of the wooden panels.

Description:

The Jesuits began construction on the Cathedral of Saint Ignatius of Loyola in 1710, which is said to be the oldest church of the city. It was designed in the shape of a Latin cross with a central vaulted nave and lateral naves with upper galleries and deep chapels. The two large baroque-style corbels of the facade create a perspective illusion. The bell tower was once used as watchtower years ago. The bell itself originally marked the hour from the Cabildo (Town Hall) on the Plaza de Mayo square. The dome of white glazed tiles was erected above a polygonal tambour; the baroque-style main doors, hand-carved with friezes and moulding, open unto the central nave. Isidro de Lorea carved the main altar in wood in the 18th century.

Our Local Expert Says:

If the weather is nice, request an outdoor table in the tiny, hidden courtyard. You will be able to get a little bit of space, seated away from the hordes of tourists that cram in here every night.

Description:

There's nothing pretentious about this bustling parrilla where jovial waiters serve plump steaks, spicy chorizo, and slabs of fried provolone to a festive crowd. Red house wine flows freely and hot-off-the-grill papas fritas burn the tongue as families and groups of friends chow down in a casual atmosphere that's true to San Telmo's working-class roots. Reservations aren't necessary, but a line wraps around the corner on weekend evenings - its best to show up just before the dinner rush. Bring a hearty appetite for red meat and a good sense of humor.

Our Local Expert Says:

Buenos Aires' oldest functioning cafe, Seddon was transplanted from Retiro to the more atmospheric San Telmo a few years ago, taking all of its antique decor along.

Description:

Decorated with mirrors, paintings and furniture of the 30s, this popular spot is a blast from the past. Wednesdays there are tango classes for the most active and on the weekends, you can enjoy live jazz and blues. The kitchen's specialty is the Green Chicken.

Our Local Expert Says:

Home has lush gardens around its courtyard pool and is one of the most relaxing respites from the blazing heat in the summer months. Plan to spend a leisurely morning over breakfast in the garden.

Description:

Home Hotel is a hip guesthouse originally constructed as a place to host the friends of the owners. With 14 single and double rooms outfitted in an eclectic mix of vintage and contemporary furnishings, and located on a wide, quiet residential street in Palermo Soho, Home features lively common areas such as the lobby library, cocktail lounge, outdoor barbeque, courtyard garden, heated pool, tapas bar, and full-service spa.

Description:

This avenue is named after General Carlos María de Alvear, who had an outstanding performance in the heroic deed for freedom organized by General San Martín. Starting at the Plazoleta Carlos Pellegrini, it ends seven blocks away, where the Alvear memorial stands. Along the way you will view different residences and small palaces that survived town-planning changes. The most exclusive representatives of haute couture are on this avenue; maisons such as Versace, Nina Ricci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, as well as fine jewelries, shoe stores and leather garment stores.

Our Local Expert Says:

Oftentimes live music entertains the crowds during the weekend fair, so if you're worn out from browsing, take a seat on the hill and enjoy the music and people-watching.

Description:

This plaza, founded in October 1909, comprises some 15,400 square meters of local flora surrounded by cultural centers and the largest outdoor handicrafts fair in the city, La Feria de Recoleta, taking place every Sunday. The appropriately named Francia a Argentina monument at its center was donated in 1910 by France to Argentina commemorating the Centennial of the Revolution of May. The Museum of Fine Arts, monolithic National Library and imposing University Faculty of Law flank the area.

Our Local Expert Says:

For about a dollar you can purchase a map of the cemetery from vendors at the entrance. It will prove to be quite useful when you find yourself in the maze inside.

Description:

This cemetery was a church graveyard until 1882 when the Governor opened it to the general public and renamed it Cemetery of the North. Small, and situated on the city's most valuable land, its importance resides in the many illustrious people that rest here. One of the most visited tombstones is Eva Peron's. The majority of materials used in the construction of tombs between 1880 and 1930 were imported from Paris and Milan, and important sculptural works grace many of the tombs.

Our Local Expert Says:

Pick up the monthly CC Recoleta schedule in the lobby to see the listings of performances, exhibitions, film screenings, and classes offered at or sponsored by the center. There are also publications available here that list the cultural happenings all over the city.

Description:

Built in 1716 by the Franciscan Recoleto monks, this complex later served as a hospital during the English invasions. In 1928 it was reduced to make way for the expansion of the adjacent Recoleta Cemetery. Years later it became an asylum for over 800 homeless and elderly, until in 1978 it was destined for use as a cultural centre. The walls were fortified and painted in ochre and reddish tones, and it now bustles with cultural and educational activities for young and old. There is a small café, a gift shop and bookstore on the premises. Offices of the United Nations are also found here.

Description:

The Hippodrome in the neighborhood of Palermo opened its doors in 1876, with typical architecture of the belle époque period. Its elliptical shape contours the three racetracks. In 1908 a grandstand and tree-shaded areas, lakes and Carrara marble sculptures were added for a touch of elegance. The renowned 3000-metre distance Gran Premio República Argentina and the 1600-metre Gran Premio de las Américas are the outstanding annual races held here. The grandstand frequently fills with crowds. There is a cafeteria on the grounds.

Description:

The best French cuisine in Buenos Aires can be tasted at La Bourgogne restaurant, the only Relais & Gourmand in Argentina, where the executive chef Jean Paul Bondoux amazes the most demanding clients. A warm and elegant venue where everyone can enjoy La Bourgogne's delicious French and international cuisine, as well as the tasty meats from the "Grill Rotissoire".

Our Local Expert Says:

Home has lush gardens around its courtyard pool and is one of the most relaxing respites from the blazing heat in the summer months. Plan to spend a leisurely morning over breakfast in the garden.

Description:

Home Hotel is a hip guesthouse originally constructed as a place to host the friends of the owners. With 14 single and double rooms outfitted in an eclectic mix of vintage and contemporary furnishings, and located on a wide, quiet residential street in Palermo Soho, Home features lively common areas such as the lobby library, cocktail lounge, outdoor barbeque, courtyard garden, heated pool, tapas bar, and full-service spa.

Our Local Expert Says:

.Eating in el Caminito can be very expensive and of poor quality because you are mostly charged for the tango performances during your meal. You might consider sitting at an outdoor café for a drink instead, and you can watch all of the street shows for free.

Description:

This open-air "museum" brings the brushstrokes of painter Benito Quinquela Martín to life in its colors, sculptures and ceramics. In fact, more than a museum, it is an art market where a constant exhibit of works inspired by the surrounding port area and neighborhood are sold. A stroll through here is sure to thrill the tourist for its uniqueness and air of bohemia. Humble dwellings painted in vibrant colors frame the pedestrian street known as el Caminito and immortalized in a tango tune of the same name. Its first inhabitants were the working-class Genoese immigrants who settled along this path, which led from the river to the railroad tracks and is now home to innovative artists. Italian cantinas can be found in the surrounding vicinity near the port area.

Description:

Boca Juniors is, without a doubt, Argentina's most popular soccer club. And that, in such a soccer-mad country, is not a small feat to accomplish. Inaugurated in 1940, the stadium is nicknamed "La Bombonera" (The chocolate box). The mad roaring of Boca's loyal fans (often including Diego Armando Maradona, arguably one of the greatest soccer players ever) during home games reverberates in such a way that is said to intimidate even the most seasoned opposition. The stadium also houses the Museo de la pasion Boquense, a small museum that celebrates the club's tradition.

Description:

Patagonia Sur was originally designed by architect Pablo Sanchez Elia. The century old narrow house has the flair of the Italian Architectural influence of the La Boca district. A cooking library of more than two thousand books adds a homey feel. The cuisine is a homage to Argentinean cooking and produce.

Description:

Designed by world-renowned architect Santiago Calatrava, the only work he's done in South America, Puente de la mujer (Bridge of the woman) is a sight that shouldn't be missed by any visitor to Buenos Aires. The 335-foot-long pedestrian bridge connects both sides of the upscale Puerto Madero, which is separated by an artificial canal. This beautifully astounding structure was engineered in such a way so the central portion of the bridge is enabled to open at a 90-degree angle to allow for easy passage of mid-sized water traffic. Inspired by the Latin dance know as the Tango, Calatrava's design abstractly resembles a couple moving to Argentina's most sensual type of dancing. Argentinean businessman, Alberto Gonzales, donated the funding for Puente de la mujer to the city in 2001.

Our Local Expert Says:

Weekend bike rentals are available just behind Puerto Madero at Costanera Sur for just a few bucks an hour. Bring the bikes over to Puerto Madero to ride by the water and join in the hundreds of locals who prefer this sunny exercise spot.

Description:

Up until the epic restoration in 1994, the brick docks lining the old port of Buenos Aires remained abandoned. The area now thrives with modern residential and business lofts and offices, bars, restaurants, an eight-theatre cinema complex, and a university while retaining the original English redbrick facades. The 15-block area runs two kilometres along the river bank dotted with fine dining, such as the Parolaccia di Mare. Two historic ships from the Argentine Armada, the Corbeta Uruguay and the Fragata Sarmiento, are moored quayside as floating naval museums.

Description:

An original alternative within the scope of barbecue-style restaurants. This is a top quality steak house, impeccable in every sense. Located in the modern complex of Puerto Madero (a recent dock-side development), it has a cutting edge, end of the 20th century style. The clientele often comprises an elegant and relaxed crowd. Specializing in offal and grilled sweetbreads, this restaurant is the flavored choice for tourists and Argentineans living abroad, who come back dreaming of a characteristic Argentine barbecue. Recommendations are barbecued pork ribs with potatoes au gratin; isla flotante (exotic dessert) and tiramisu. The decoration is a plain country style. The excellent fillet steaks are proof of the high quality meat they are known for, having bred their own cattle for more than 70 years.

Our Local Expert Says:

Home has lush gardens around its courtyard pool and is one of the most relaxing respites from the blazing heat in the summer months. Plan to spend a leisurely morning over breakfast in the garden.

Description:

Home Hotel is a hip guesthouse originally constructed as a place to host the friends of the owners. With 14 single and double rooms outfitted in an eclectic mix of vintage and contemporary furnishings, and located on a wide, quiet residential street in Palermo Soho, Home features lively common areas such as the lobby library, cocktail lounge, outdoor barbeque, courtyard garden, heated pool, tapas bar, and full-service spa.

Description:

This building, which formerly pumped the city's water supply, metamorphosed into Buenos Aires's most important art museum in 1930. The museum contains the world's largest collection of Argentine sculptures and paintings. It also houses European art dating from the pre-Renaissance period to the present day. The collections include notable pieces by Renoir, Monet, Rodin, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Van Gogh, as well as a surprisingly extensive collection of Picasso drawings.

Our Local Expert Says:

When the weather is nice, the café moves its tables outside into the sun.

Description:

Founded in 1937, the National Museum for Decorative Art is the former palatial mansion of the wealthy Argentine Errázuriz Alvear family. The interiors of this lavish building retain the French-inspired architectural floor plan and embellishments. The expansive underground coach house and storage area, antechambers, bedrooms and servant's quarters comprise the exhibit spaces for over 4000 pieces of European and Oriental objets d'art. The reception and main halls on the ground floor are adorned with renaissance-style windowpanes, sculpted corbels and a fireplace which dominates the space for its sheer size. The decorative objects on exhibit include exquisite furnishings, tapestries, silverware, porcelain, ivory, paintings, sculptures and European miniatures from the XVI to XX centuries. There is a gift boutique and the elegant Errázuriz restaurant/bar is an ideal way to enjoy a drink, snack or high tea. Admission is free on Tuesdays.

Our Local Expert Says:

Look up the events calendar online to keep up to date on the variety of performances, film screenings (including English-language films), and exhibition openings happening every week. If you don't have anything special in mind, go on Wednesday when admission is discounted to 5 pesos.

Description:

Founded in 2001 and started with just the permanent collection owned by its director, Eduardo Constantini, MALBA aims at promoting Latin American art in all its disciplines. Constantini donated to this post-modern gallery works of art that take us on a journey through the history of Spanish American art, from the beginning of its avant-garde movement at the turn of the century to the present. The collection is arranged in such a way to expose the similarities as well as the differences between the artists, other than in chronological order. There are workshops, children activities, temporary exhibitions and work experience for students. Own car park. Free admission.

Description:

At an old corner of the city, Bar Sur features all-you-can-eat pizza, and exotic tango performances. This is the quintessential "tanguería" from the Buenos Aires of yesteryear. They offer some of the best selections in music and dance. The style of the show is rather intimate; visitors can listen to the best tangos and view the world-famous dance steps while the live band performs the classics. The ambiance is always lively with amusing exchanges between locals and foreigners.

Description:

A classic in the tango circuit, this spot offers unique shows of authentic 'Porteño style' tango. From 10p you can enjoy the show with the cost of your drinks included in the cover charge. For those who wish to have both dinner (8pm) and show, the cost is about double. You will enjoy international cuisine dishes like loin Carpaccio, Gruyere cheese, Crêpe flambéed with cognac, and for dessert, Kiwis with mint. The 'Gran Show del Tango' performance can be viewed throughout the year.