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First Time in Buenos Aires

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Colorful and vibrant, Buenos Aires is a top destination for travelers of all ages. The beautiful riverside city boasts some of South America's principle historical sights and a distinct culture dedicated to the good life, not to mention a population of passionate, energetic 'porteños,' as these 'people from the port' so proudly call themselves.

First-time visitors to BA will want to wander around the city's oldest neighborhoods for a taste of the crumbling elegance for which the Argentinean capital is known. Charming, bohemian San Telmo, with its popular European-style Plaza Dorrego and weekend art and antiques fair, the Feria de San Telmo, is a must-see. The colorful Caminito strip, the main tourist drag in blue-collar La Boca and BA's most-visited attraction, is another essential for newbies.

Travelers will want to hit the swish upscale shops in the northern neighborhoods of Recoleta and Palermo to grab some nice duds by local designers before heading out on the town for a taste of the famed BA nightlife. Tango is of course a must; from classic tango venues like Cafe Tortoni to funky electronic tango shows like Rojo Tango, the music and dance tradition that was invented on the docks of the city reverberates through Buenos Aires and is a ritual for young and old alike.

Individual neighborhoods, called 'barrios,' are best explored on foot, but Buenos Aires is far too large to avoid using other means of transport. Luckily, taxis are cheap and plentiful; hail a cab displaying a 'Radio Taxi' sign to be on the safe side. More adventurous travelers can pick up a 'Guia-T' at any sidewalk kiosk; this map details the labyrinth of routes that make up BA's extensive (and very efficient) 'colectivo' - city bus - system. The 'subte,' or metro, is the cheapest and certainly the quickest way to get to your destination - given that the limited lines coincide with your route.

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Day 1 - Buenos Aires

Your first trip to Buenos Aires will have you running all over town, but the starting point should certainly be in the historical nucleus of the city, in the southern barrio of San Telmo. Weekends in charming San Telmo are lively and colorful, packed with artists, tango orchestras, and antiques' stalls crowded around the main focal point of the neighborhood, Plaza Dorrego. From here, head south to the immigrant docks of La Boca, now the main tourist zone in the city and worth an afternoon's strolling around, or direct yourself north towards the historic demonstration grounds at Plaza de Mayo and towards the famed resting place of Evita and numerous presidents, the sprawling, eery Cementerio de Recoleta.

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Feria de Mataderos

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Lisandro de la Torre y Avenida de los Corrales
Barrio de Mataderos
1440 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4323 9684

Reserva Ecológica

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Costanera Sur s/n
Along the Costanera near Puerto Madero
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

11/4893-1588

Plaza Dorrego

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Defensa and Humberto Primo
Plaza Dorrego, at the intersection of Defensa and Humberto I
1065 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Fundacion Proa

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1929 Avienda Pedro de Mendoza
C1169AAD Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4104 1000

El Caminito

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Caminito entre Magallanes y Lamadrid.
1160 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 (0)11 4545 2073

Cementerio de la Recoleta

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Azcuénaga 1901-1999
Recoleta District
1116 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4804 7040

Plaza de Mayo

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Avenida de Mayo 800
Plaza de Mayo begins at the eastern terminus of Av. de Mayo and is surrounded by calles Yrigoyen, San Martín, Rivadavia, and Balcarce
1084 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Bosques de Palermo

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Avenues Del Libertador, Dorrego y Figueroa Alcorta
Palermo
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)

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Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415
C1425CLA Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4808 6500

El Zanjón

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Defensa 755
1098 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 4361 3002

Day 2 - Buenos Aires

As all visitors will soon discover, dining in BA involves piles of barbecued beef and pitchers of house red wine - all for a fraction of what foreigners are accustomed to paying for such great eats. Meat lovers should try out several different 'parrillas,' or steak houses, and not feel guilty if they really just want to eat steak every day. Pay San Telmo's popular neighborhood joint Desnivel a visit for a rollicking good time; Puerto Madero's upscale Cabaña las Lilas offers the same grub under a fine dining guise, and the Argentinean wine selection is divine. A more informal experience can be had at one of the beautiful traditional cafés, such as Tortoni or Seddon, where live music often enlivens the already classic atmosphere. Note that in Buenos Aires, dinner usually begins around 8 or 9 and lasts til the last drop of vino tinto is drunk - sometimes stretching the evening meal into the next morning.

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Desnivel

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Defensa 855
At Independencia
Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4300 9081

647 Dinner Club

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Tacuari 647
1405 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4331 3026

Café Tortoni

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Avenida de Mayo 825
At Esmeralda
1084 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4342 4328

Bar Seddon

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Defensa 685
1002 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 43130669

Cabaña Las Lilas

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Avenida Alicia Moreau de Justo 516
At Villaflor, in Dique 3
1107 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 43131336

Day 3 - Buenos Aires

Nightlife in Buenos Aires is legendary, and for good reason. This town knows how to kick back and have a good time, every night of the week. If you want to keep a low-key evening, head for drinks at the gorgeous café and tango hall, La Ideal, where you might catch a glimpse of amateur tango dancers spinning around the floor, or over to the funky, always popular Milion - and be sure to try the frozen mojito. If you're in the mood to boogie, try the hetero-friendly superclub, Amerika, which is especially rollicking on Sunday nights. Thursdays should find you at Club 69, an absolute must of a freak show party set to house beats - and stretching well into Friday morning.

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Le Bar

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Tucumán 422
1052 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

+54 11 5219 0858

Club 69

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Federico Lacroze 3455
(intersection Alvarez Thomas)
1426 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

5411 6438 6777

Ideal (La)

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Suipacha 384
First Floor
1008 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 4326 0521 / 54 11 4326 1515

Milión

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Paraná 1048
Barrio Norte
1018 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

54 11 48159925

Amerika

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Gascón 1040
At Córdoba
1425 Buenos Aires, Argentina

Phone:

5411 4865 4416

Day 4 - Buenos Aires

Chances are that first-timers in BA have never seen the tango, at least not the way it's done here. Whether you have a desire to strap on some sparkling tango shoes and give the dance a shot, or if you prefer to remain a spectator, the options to take in the famous dance of love are endless. The tango shows at Bar Sur and Rojo Tango are fabulous, while venues such as Salon Canning and the Academia Nacional de Tango offer inexpensive classes before their 'milonga,' or tango hall, nights get started. For one of the most atmospheric evenings in town, head over to El Niño Bien on Thursday nights, where serious tango dancers spend their time.

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