First Time in Buenos Aires

Our Local Expert Says:

This might be the most authentic "del campo" Argentine experience available (not to mention that leather and silver is cheapest here) within city limits and shouldn't be missed if you have an extra Sunday. The long bus or taxi ride is well worth it.

Description:

This traditional fair located across from the cattle market (Mercado de Hacienda) brings a little countryside to the city. Artisans offer traditional crafts made from silver, wood, textiles and ceramics, as well as regional food like empanadas, tamales, tortas fritas (sweet fried pastry), alfajores and mate cocido, a local infusion. There is also a small music and dance festival and skilled demonstrations of horsemanship and "gaucho." Visitors should try their luck at the game of sapo, climbing a lathered pole. Admission is free.

Our Local Expert Says:

Bike rentals are available on weekends for just a few dollars an hour, and you can ride on the trails lining the river all afternoon.

Description:

The Ecological Reserve is an unusual and unexpected consequence of highway construction throughout Buenos Aires during the mid-20th century. Construction debris and the rubble of demolished buildings were unceremoniously dumped into the Río de la Plata. Over time, sand and sediment began to build up, and then grass and trees began to grow. The birds followed, and now the area is a preserve. Various companies will take people on biking and bird-watching tours of the area. Ask your travel agent about it or see our list of tour companies. Since there are few genuine beaches in the Buenos Aires area, some people come here to sunbathe, sometimes in the nude. Whatever you do, don't go into the water, since it is heavily polluted and still full of rough construction debris in some parts. The Costanera walkway, extending from Puerto Madero, has been improved since 2007, with ice cream kiosks and other services for the increasing amount of spillover wanderers from the port. In spite of its being a preserve, development is slowly encroaching on it as the Puerto Madero area grows. Though the police do have a patrol station here, some homeless people also camp out here, meaning you should be cautious.

Our Local Expert Says:

When the antiques stalls are taken down at sunset on Sundays, take a seat at an outdoor café in the plaza and watch as the locals slowly drift in to create an outdoor milonga, or tango hall. The spectacle rivals just about any overpriced tango show.

Description:

This historic plaza was the sight of the swearing of National Independence in 1816 before Don Juan Martín de Pueyrredón. During the colony, it was a resting post for wagons travelling from the port to what is now Plaza de Mayo along the first roadway, known today as Calle Defensa. Today it is the site of the San Pedro Telmo Antique Fair, where street performances by tango dancers, musicians, mimes and colourful characters mingle with the painters, antiquarians and street vendors in a bohemian rhapsody of song, dance and nostalgia. Ramble the colonial cobblestone streets of the Barrio de San Telmo to Avenida Independencia and Balcarce, to see El Viejo Almacén from the early colonial days, now a traditional tango bar/restaurant.

Description:

The phenomenal, newly redesigned Fundacion Proa art institute is one of BA's top destinations for international art, film, video, photography, theater, and literature exhibitions. Housed in a classical harbor-front building, the space features various light-washed galleries, a large amphitheater for events, screenings, and lectures, and a brand-new, stunning art library, complete with a reading room. Continue up to the top level for lunch at the terrace cafe overlooking the colorful La Boca docks and nearby Caminito.

Our Local Expert Says:

.Eating in el Caminito can be very expensive and of poor quality because you are mostly charged for the tango performances during your meal. You might consider sitting at an outdoor café for a drink instead, and you can watch all of the street shows for free.

Description:

This open-air "museum" brings the brushstrokes of painter Benito Quinquela Martín to life in its colors, sculptures and ceramics. In fact, more than a museum, it is an art market where a constant exhibit of works inspired by the surrounding port area and neighborhood are sold. A stroll through here is sure to thrill the tourist for its uniqueness and air of bohemia. Humble dwellings painted in vibrant colors frame the pedestrian street known as el Caminito and immortalized in a tango tune of the same name. Its first inhabitants were the working-class Genoese immigrants who settled along this path, which led from the river to the railroad tracks and is now home to innovative artists. Italian cantinas can be found in the surrounding vicinity near the port area.

Our Local Expert Says:

For about a dollar you can purchase a map of the cemetery from vendors at the entrance. It will prove to be quite useful when you find yourself in the maze inside.

Description:

This cemetery was a church graveyard until 1882 when the Governor opened it to the general public and renamed it Cemetery of the North. Small, and situated on the city's most valuable land, its importance resides in the many illustrious people that rest here. One of the most visited tombstones is Eva Peron's. The majority of materials used in the construction of tombs between 1880 and 1930 were imported from Paris and Milan, and important sculptural works grace many of the tombs.

Our Local Expert Says:

A lovely way to spend an early morning or late evening is to stroll from Plaza de Mayo down the grand Avenida de Mayo, a wide avenue parading some of the most magnificent architecture in Buenos Aires. With antique street lamps and grand old cafes, Avenida de Mayo retains the elegance of a past era. Walk until you get to Plaza de Congreso, another equally beautiful plaza with a daytime market located about ten blocks from the Casa Rosada.

Description:

Founded by Juan de Garay in 1580, this is the original centre of the city. The city's first monument, Pirámide de Mayo, is situated at its centre. Important institutions flank the plaza: the Casa Rosada (Pink Government House), Banco de la Nación (Nation's Bank), Catedral Metropolitana and Cabildo (Town Hall). Internationally known for the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, women gather here in a silent vigil, every Thursday at 3pm to claim justice for their "disappeared" during the military rule in the 1980s.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't worry about bringing your own picnic - the food vendors are plentiful, serving up local specialties such as choripan, a tasty sausage sandwich. There are also lots of drinks and ice cream available.

Description:

Originally owned by Governor Rosas, this park opened to the public in 1874. Visit the Jardín de los Poetas, with sculptures of famous writers such as Alfonsina Storni, Félix Amador, Paul Groussac and Enrique Larreta. Enjoy the Rosedal where the colorful roses are kept. Other features include pergolas, bridges, fountains, seats, street lamps and a magnificent array of sculptures. Many activities are available at the lake, including rowing and pedal boats. These woods are the preferred choice for local joggers and bicyclers.

Our Local Expert Says:

Look up the events calendar online to keep up to date on the variety of performances, film screenings (including English-language films), and exhibition openings happening every week. If you don't have anything special in mind, go on Wednesday when admission is discounted to 5 pesos.

Description:

Founded in 2001 and started with just the permanent collection owned by its director, Eduardo Constantini, MALBA aims at promoting Latin American art in all its disciplines. Constantini donated to this post-modern gallery works of art that take us on a journey through the history of Spanish American art, from the beginning of its avant-garde movement at the turn of the century to the present. The collection is arranged in such a way to expose the similarities as well as the differences between the artists, other than in chronological order. There are workshops, children activities, temporary exhibitions and work experience for students. Own car park. Free admission.

Our Local Expert Says:

Visit on Sundays for a half-off entrance fee.

Description:

Just when you think you've had enough of looking at antiques and crumbling, faded-glory buildings in San Telmo, El Zanjón proposes a refreshing, unusual look back to the past. Enter this historic mansion, built over 150 years ago, through the unassuming entrance on Defensa to inspect the restored house, after which you will be whisked underground into the amazing labyrinth that once contained an arm of the Rio de la Plata, and, later, tenement houses. Artifacts recovered from these passageways are on exhibit both above and below ground, showing the evolution of the city over the past several hundred years.

Our Local Expert Says:

If the weather is nice, request an outdoor table in the tiny, hidden courtyard. You will be able to get a little bit of space, seated away from the hordes of tourists that cram in here every night.

Description:

There's nothing pretentious about this bustling parrilla where jovial waiters serve plump steaks, spicy chorizo, and slabs of fried provolone to a festive crowd. Red house wine flows freely and hot-off-the-grill papas fritas burn the tongue as families and groups of friends chow down in a casual atmosphere that's true to San Telmo's working-class roots. Reservations aren't necessary, but a line wraps around the corner on weekend evenings - its best to show up just before the dinner rush. Bring a hearty appetite for red meat and a good sense of humor.

Description:

647 is a unique space in the Porteño night map, that adds a new concept: the dinner club. Trendy in the main European cities, the dinner club is an integral proposal to dine and share the pre- and after- dinner, within an exclusive, elegant and sophisticated atmosphere; where music, cocktails and gastronomy know how to shine. The restaurant introduces the tailor-made haute cuisine of chef Guillermo Testón, perfectly accented by the crafty cocktails at the swish bar.

Our Local Expert Says:

Tortoni's tango show is one of the more authentic, less pricey shows in town. Call ahead to make reservations.

Description:

This café has formed part of the Porteño landscape since 1858. A shrine to local tango culture, it houses the Academia Nacional del Tango and stages performances as well as literary events in the basement. Legendary literati such as the disquieting poets Argentine, Alfonsina Storni and Spanish Federico García Lorca gathered here. Porteño bohemia and nostalgia fuse here over a game of chess, domino and billiards. Chocolate con Churros (hot cocoa and deep fried batter) are a traditional Argentine breakfast.

Our Local Expert Says:

Buenos Aires' oldest functioning cafe, Seddon was transplanted from Retiro to the more atmospheric San Telmo a few years ago, taking all of its antique decor along.

Description:

Decorated with mirrors, paintings and furniture of the 30s, this popular spot is a blast from the past. Wednesdays there are tango classes for the most active and on the weekends, you can enjoy live jazz and blues. The kitchen's specialty is the Green Chicken.

Description:

An original alternative within the scope of barbecue-style restaurants. This is a top quality steak house, impeccable in every sense. Located in the modern complex of Puerto Madero (a recent dock-side development), it has a cutting edge, end of the 20th century style. The clientele often comprises an elegant and relaxed crowd. Specializing in offal and grilled sweetbreads, this restaurant is the flavored choice for tourists and Argentineans living abroad, who come back dreaming of a characteristic Argentine barbecue. Recommendations are barbecued pork ribs with potatoes au gratin; isla flotante (exotic dessert) and tiramisu. The decoration is a plain country style. The excellent fillet steaks are proof of the high quality meat they are known for, having bred their own cattle for more than 70 years.

Description:

Le Bar, located in Buenos Aires' lively Microcentro, serves up creative signature cocktails in incredible surroundings. The modern decor features ambient lighting, sunken seats and an amazing terrace, which comes complete with its own greenhouse like ceiling. Aside from the sheer sophistication of the interior, revelers will delight in drinks like the Passionaria, which is passion fruit, cachasa, and angostura, which go along so nicely with the global tapas they offer on weekdays from noon, and Saturdays from 9p.

Description:

Go-go dancers with afros, the drag queen Statue of Liberty, bands of sailors dancing on platforms moving through the crowd, and break dancers decked out in all-gold sweat suits. Guest DJs spin hip-hop while foreigners and locals alike flock here for the one night in the week when fringe counter culture hits the mainstream. The party doesn't get into full swing until around 3am, but come earlier if you want to avoid the line outside that wraps around the corner. Check out the website to get your name added to the list, which can bump you to the front of the line and perhaps get you out of the entrance fee.

Description:

Visited by tourists and nostalgic 'Porteños' (people from Buenos Aires) alike, this establishment keeps alive the ritual of tea with cakes. The furniture carries its trademark carved fleur de lis from the turn of the century. Original pieces such as the Czech armchairs, French chandeliers, Italian stained glass and Slovenian columns are still present. The place has a permanent melancholic clientele, with a preference for spacious and classic rooms. The first floor is a dance area, where on Thursday afternoons experienced dancers, tourists and students gather for tango lessons or simply to dance.

Our Local Expert Says:

Milion is a place where friends meet, so take a big group, order up a bunch of fruity drinks and tasty hors d’oeuvres, and claim the space along the upper deck railing just outside the bar. Try the frozen mojito for an especially refreshing tropical treat.

Description:

Milion is an old family mansion converted into one of the city's most popular bars. A visit to this stylish lounge guarantees you the listening pleasure of good jazz tracks and a varied range of meals. Apart from the chilled out bar and garden, there is also a gallery of modern art. Pick up a drink and explore this throwback to the decadent old days. Be one of the customers who flock to this innovative, luxurious venue, regardless of your age!

Description:

One of the biggest and best gay clubs in town, wacky Amerika also attracts straights, making for one of the most diverse (and fun) crowds in town, particularly on Sunday nights. Clusters of people mix and mingle on the many levels of the gigantic venue, grooving to the beats spun by an assortment of guest DJs. If you don't want to dance, don't bother coming at all, because you won't find a place to sit down here.

Description:

In the San Telmo area, this is the quintessential "tanguería" from the Buenos Aires of yesteryear. They offer some of the best selections in music and dance. The style of the show is rather intimate; visitors can listen to the best tangos and view the world-famous dance steps while the live band performs the classics. The ambiance is always lively with amusing exchanges between locals and foreigners. At an old corner of the city, Bar Sur features all-you-can-eat pizza, and exotic tango performances.

Description:

This is among the most authentic of all of the milongas. At the end of a long hallway, spectators crowd around the main dance floor to watch couples make their way around it. Salón Canning is known for its extremely smooth, high-quality wooden parquet floor, considered one of the best for dancing in all of Buenos Aires. This tango hall is among the few things left in Buenos Aires that still bear the name of George Canning -- a British diplomat who opened relations between Argentina and Great Britain after independence from Spain.

Description:

This academy is located in the palacio Carlos Gardel, on top of the Café Tortoni. It is one of the 18 national academies of tango. It also has various franchises in the provinces the USA, and Europe. The Liceo Superior of the Academia offers 24 different courses during three years, at which end students get a Bachelor of Arts degree (or equivalent) in Tango. At the same time, it offers tango dance lessons. An intensive theoretical and practical course in Tango is also available for foreigners visiting Buenos Aires.

Description:

Featured at the very fancy Faena Hotel + Universe Roja Tango is a show with enthralling tango performances. Renowned internationally, this extravaganza is known to bring excellent performances that spell passion and grace. Dancers dressed in extravagant costumes and performing impressive acts using props and other paraphernalia, add more razzmatazz to the overall event. During shows, the ambiance is electric with the upbeat music and dances and crowds applauding the fantastic amalgamy of music, dance, lights and color.

Description:

What better way to see and perform the traditional dance of romance, the tango, than at El Niño Bien. The elegant, slightly worn dance salon is clad in yellow paint with red curtains and traditional looking lampshades all over. There are tables on the sides surrounding the dance floors. The dance floor is swarming with guests doing the effervescent tango. So if you are in Buenos Aires and want to experience this beautiful dance form, you know where to head.