Pinching pesos in Buenos Aires

Our Local Expert Says:

.Eating in el Caminito can be very expensive and of poor quality because you are mostly charged for the tango performances during your meal. You might consider sitting at an outdoor café for a drink instead, and you can watch all of the street shows for free.

Description:

This open-air "museum" brings the brushstrokes of painter Benito Quinquela Martín to life in its colors, sculptures and ceramics. In fact, more than a museum, it is an art market where a constant exhibit of works inspired by the surrounding port area and neighborhood are sold. A stroll through here is sure to thrill the tourist for its uniqueness and air of bohemia. Humble dwellings painted in vibrant colors frame the pedestrian street known as el Caminito and immortalized in a tango tune of the same name. Its first inhabitants were the working-class Genoese immigrants who settled along this path, which led from the river to the railroad tracks and is now home to innovative artists. Italian cantinas can be found in the surrounding vicinity near the port area.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be fooled by San Telmo's reputation as the "old neighborhood." While crumbling buildings abound, this place is now buzzing with hip new cafes, bars, and restaurants featuring a huge variety of cuisine, along with a wealth of independent designers opening up shops all along Defensa.

Description:

In 1871, with the outbreak of Yellow Fever, these mansions were soon overtaken by squatters, creating the city's historic conventillos (tenement houses). It was not until 1970 that an edict stipulated protection for property owners. Today the neighborhood of San Pedro Telmo is an important historic corner of the city. Locals and tourists alike flock to the Plaza Dorrego on the oldest street in the city, for the antique market and vibrant street performances, including tango. On the corner of Independencia and Balcarce streets is El Viejo Almacén, a traditional tango establishment.

Description:

Parque Lezama is located at the southern border of San Telmo, and is a wonderful way to spend a sunny afternoon. With a view of the bright blue onion domes of the Russian Basilica, lazy tree-lined paths, antique marble fountains, and groups of men crowded around the built-in stone chess boards every afternoon, this park recalls a past time when time moved a little bit slower.

Our Local Expert Says:

When the antiques stalls are taken down at sunset on Sundays, take a seat at an outdoor café in the plaza and watch as the locals slowly drift in to create an outdoor milonga, or tango hall. The spectacle rivals just about any overpriced tango show.

Description:

This historic plaza was the sight of the swearing of National Independence in 1816 before Don Juan Martín de Pueyrredón. During the colony, it was a resting post for wagons travelling from the port to what is now Plaza de Mayo along the first roadway, known today as Calle Defensa. Today it is the site of the San Pedro Telmo Antique Fair, where street performances by tango dancers, musicians, mimes and colourful characters mingle with the painters, antiquarians and street vendors in a bohemian rhapsody of song, dance and nostalgia. Ramble the colonial cobblestone streets of the Barrio de San Telmo to Avenida Independencia and Balcarce, to see El Viejo Almacén from the early colonial days, now a traditional tango bar/restaurant.

Our Local Expert Says:

Visit on Sundays for a half-off entrance fee.

Description:

Just when you think you've had enough of looking at antiques and crumbling, faded-glory buildings in San Telmo, El Zanjón proposes a refreshing, unusual look back to the past. Enter this historic mansion, built over 150 years ago, through the unassuming entrance on Defensa to inspect the restored house, after which you will be whisked underground into the amazing labyrinth that once contained an arm of the Rio de la Plata, and, later, tenement houses. Artifacts recovered from these passageways are on exhibit both above and below ground, showing the evolution of the city over the past several hundred years.

Our Local Expert Says:

If the weather is nice, request an outdoor table in the tiny, hidden courtyard. You will be able to get a little bit of space, seated away from the hordes of tourists that cram in here every night.

Description:

There's nothing pretentious about this bustling parrilla where jovial waiters serve plump steaks, spicy chorizo, and slabs of fried provolone to a festive crowd. Red house wine flows freely and hot-off-the-grill papas fritas burn the tongue as families and groups of friends chow down in a casual atmosphere that's true to San Telmo's working-class roots. Reservations aren't necessary, but a line wraps around the corner on weekend evenings - its best to show up just before the dinner rush. Bring a hearty appetite for red meat and a good sense of humor.

Description:

A beautiful house in a residential neighborhood, inside the Capital City, very well located in a peaceful and safe place. With easy and quick access to travel by bus, train or otherwise through the highway arriving in 10´ to the Obelisco. A modern house, attended by its owners in a personalized way, luminous rooms with bathroom in suite and sommiers beds, TV, internet (wi fi), garden and solarium. The Price includes: Continental breakfast, Daily room service, 24 hr security, telephone in every room, medical emergencies. We also have International kitchen of first level with a wide variety menu, open 24 hr.

As seen on

Description:

Located in the center of the city, this park occupies 12 hectares filled with centennial trees of different species. In the middle, there is an enormous artificial pond with ducks and exotic birds. On Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, from 11am to 8pm peruse exhibits of works in metal, clay, leather, fabrics, et cetera, made by local artisans. There are also different artistic performances throughout the year, sponsored by the Government of the City of Buenos Aires. Admission is free.

Description:

This imposing building decorated with English ceramics, is a palace of pure baroque style. Except the shale which was imported from France, the other elements were shipped from England. Originally this structure was built as a water tower to provide clean, drinking water to the locals after the yellow fever epidemic of 1877. Today it is the headquarters of the water company Aguas Argentinas and also houses a waterworks museum that has hundreds of toilets collected from across the world over the decades. There is also a library containing books and other material on waterworks across the globe.

Description:

The botanical gardens take up a wide acreage in Plaza Italia, adjacent to the zoo and the La Rural complex. Visitors can stroll on lovely pebble paths through the variety of foliage, notably the prickly cactus garden and the steamy greenhouses. The real highlight of the gardens, though, is the cats. Hundreds of cats dwell in the gardens year-round, lazily basking in the sun and entertaining visitors. This is a wonderful place to bring kids.

Our Local Expert Says:

Piola is rare in that the kitchen remains open throughout the day, so if you (like all foreigners having trouble adjusting the late schedule here) get hungry at the early hour of 6pm, pizza at Piola is a great option. Also, inquire about the special evenings when Piola hosts a set-fee, all-you-can-eat-and-drink pizza and wine special.

Description:

Inaugurated 11 years ago in Treviso, Italy, the Buenos Aires version opened in 1993. The owners' concept was to create an atmosphere where you could eat and enjoy Italian music and cuisine. It is a place where people can relax and feel at home. Modern decoration. Piola was one of the first to offer a trendy style in Buenos Aires. The majority of clients are fairly young.

Description:

Trilenium Casino offers a complete and hard-to-resist package: ample gaming and renowned live shows combined with a great location less than an hour away from Downtown Buenos Aires. Boasting over 1800 slot machines and almost 80 gaming tables distributed in three levels, Trilenium is without a doubt one of the biggest gambling centers of Latin America. On weekends, there are live shows of genres such as Jazz, Blues and Tango. To round out an enjoyable evening, I recommend having dinner at Stephano's, a nice international restaurant located on the third floor. On Saturdays you can also enjoy the casino's nightclub (modest cover charge).

Description:

A beautiful house in a residential neighborhood, inside the Capital City, very well located in a peaceful and safe place. With easy and quick access to travel by bus, train or otherwise through the highway arriving in 10´ to the Obelisco. A modern house, attended by its owners in a personalized way, luminous rooms with bathroom in suite and sommiers beds, TV, internet (wi fi), garden and solarium. The Price includes: Continental breakfast, Daily room service, 24 hr security, telephone in every room, medical emergencies. We also have International kitchen of first level with a wide variety menu, open 24 hr.

As seen on

Our Local Expert Says:

A lovely way to spend an early morning or late evening is to stroll from Plaza de Mayo down the grand Avenida de Mayo, a wide avenue parading some of the most magnificent architecture in Buenos Aires. With antique street lamps and grand old cafes, Avenida de Mayo retains the elegance of a past era. Walk until you get to Plaza de Congreso, another equally beautiful plaza with a daytime market located about ten blocks from the Casa Rosada.

Description:

Founded by Juan de Garay in 1580, this is the original centre of the city. The city's first monument, Pirámide de Mayo, is situated at its centre. Important institutions flank the plaza: the Casa Rosada (Pink Government House), Banco de la Nación (Nation's Bank), Catedral Metropolitana and Cabildo (Town Hall). Internationally known for the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo, women gather here in a silent vigil, every Thursday at 3pm to claim justice for their "disappeared" during the military rule in the 1980s.

Description:

The original structure of the Metropolitan Cathedral was built in 1745; it was given a new facade with carvings telling the story of Jacob and his son Joseph and was designated a cathedral in 1836. The look of the cathedral was changed from a traditional Spanish colonial look to a Greek-revival style at that time, with a pediment and colonnade in front, though the sides, back, and exterior dome remain similar to the original. Inside lies an ornate mausoleum containing the remains of General José de San Martín, the South American liberator regarded as the "Father of the Nation." (San Martín fought successfully for freedom in Argentina, Peru, and Chile alongside the better-known Simón Bolívar.) His body was moved here in 1880 to become a rallying symbol of Argentina's unification and rise to greatness when Buenos Aires became the capital of Argentina at the end of a long civil war. The tomb of the unknown soldier of Argentine independence is also here, and an eternal flame burns in remembrance. Among the chapels of note is the one on the east side of the cathedral with a statue of Jesus with the notation, "Santo Cristo del Gran Amor," or the Holy Christ of Great Love. It was donated in...

Our Local Expert Says:

The tour is indeed educational, but if you prefer just to poke around, no one will stop you from getting on the elevator and showing yourself around. Head to the top floor to check out the interior domes and the view.

Description:

The Palacio Barolo is a remarkable and luxurious building, designed by Italian architect Mario Palanti by request of a powerful Argentinean textile tycoon. Finished in 1923, the Palacio Barolo was meant to be the final resting place of Dante Alighieri's ashes, a safe haven for the writer's remains far away from a war-torn Europe. That dream never came true, and today it is mainly used as an office building. Filled with countless exquisite references to the Divine Comedy and wonderfully decorated, it was the tallest construction in South America for several years. The view of Buenos Aires city-centre from the 24th floor is second to none.

Our Local Expert Says:

Check out the plaza on weekends when the flea market is in full swing to browse through a great selection of antique housewares, used books (some are in English), and old coins from all over South America.

Description:

Named for its location directly across from the National Congress Building, this plaza contains a large monolith that represents the start (Km 0) for all its national highways. This plaza almost encompasses three city blocks (its western-most point along Ave. de Mayo), and is an ideal place for recreation and rest. One of the city's best and most valuable sculptures is a bronze reproduction of "The Thinker" by Auguste Rodin, which can be found inside the plaza.

Description:

Gibraltar is one of the most popular watering holes in San Telmo, drawing an international crowd to this small space for the pool tables, TV screens showing local soccer games, and, oddly, the spicy Indian and Thai-inspired menu. The green curry is a local favorite, as are the cheeseburgers, which tend to be a commodity in Buenos Aires. The good selection of already cheap beers on tap and drinks are half-price during happy hour, which stretches into a healthy 5 hours on week nights.

Description:

This is one of the most interesting milongas. It is authentic, but it attracts a very young crowd of Porteños and expats who have come from all over the world to dance their lives away in Buenos Aires, where the living is good and cheap. Many nights it is just a milonga. Other nights host shows and competitions, many involving tango, folkloric, and modern dance. La Viruta is in the cellar of the Armenian Community Center. When decorated with balloons for some events, it looks a little like a high school prom from the 1970s.

Our Local Expert Says:

Request the room that looks out onto the intersection of Corrientes and 9 de Julio. The view of the Obelisco is priceless.

Description:

The Bristol Hotel is situated right on the famed Avenida 9 de Julio, affording a great view of the Obelisk, the city's landmark. The hotel offers personalized and cordial service in a traditional atmosphere. Located a short distance from the nostalgic Avenida Corrientes, it is steps away from feeling the spirit of the tango at your feet. It has 130 well-equipped rooms and nine suites, and is conveniently located near many of the city's major sites and public transportation.

Our Local Expert Says:

Oftentimes live music entertains the crowds during the weekend fair, so if you're worn out from browsing, take a seat on the hill and enjoy the music and people-watching.

Description:

This plaza, founded in October 1909, comprises some 15,400 square meters of local flora surrounded by cultural centers and the largest outdoor handicrafts fair in the city, La Feria de Recoleta, taking place every Sunday. The appropriately named Francia a Argentina monument at its center was donated in 1910 by France to Argentina commemorating the Centennial of the Revolution of May. The Museum of Fine Arts, monolithic National Library and imposing University Faculty of Law flank the area.

Our Local Expert Says:

For about a dollar you can purchase a map of the cemetery from vendors at the entrance. It will prove to be quite useful when you find yourself in the maze inside.

Description:

This cemetery was a church graveyard until 1882 when the Governor opened it to the general public and renamed it Cemetery of the North. Small, and situated on the city's most valuable land, its importance resides in the many illustrious people that rest here. One of the most visited tombstones is Eva Peron's. The majority of materials used in the construction of tombs between 1880 and 1930 were imported from Paris and Milan, and important sculptural works grace many of the tombs.

Our Local Expert Says:

Pick up the monthly CC Recoleta schedule in the lobby to see the listings of performances, exhibitions, film screenings, and classes offered at or sponsored by the center. There are also publications available here that list the cultural happenings all over the city.

Description:

Built in 1716 by the Franciscan Recoleto monks, this complex later served as a hospital during the English invasions. In 1928 it was reduced to make way for the expansion of the adjacent Recoleta Cemetery. Years later it became an asylum for over 800 homeless and elderly, until in 1978 it was destined for use as a cultural centre. The walls were fortified and painted in ochre and reddish tones, and it now bustles with cultural and educational activities for young and old. There is a small café, a gift shop and bookstore on the premises. Offices of the United Nations are also found here.

Description:

The 'Palace de Glace' of French influence was constructed for the sole purpose of practicing ice skating. With time, this place started welcoming tango dancers, an idea that did not go down well with the elite crowd. When Baron de Marhi organized a celebration in his gallery to approve the dance, this form of art gained acceptance in the high Buenosarian society. Thus it started growing in prestige until in 1932 it became a museum and hall for exhibitions of matchless reputation with the presence of artists such as Perez Célis. Its dance floor is surrounded by theatre boxes and a confectionary and bar!

Description:

Despite the name, it is not all about futbol in Locos por el Futbol. It is a family place in the heart of Recoleta that is always showing futbol games on dozens of TV sets. You are sure to find a good game to watch. There is also a nice futbol memorabilia shop right next to the front door. It is very complete, but a bit expensive. The food is very good and the high points are the pasta and pizza. An insider tip: if you happen to be in Buenos Aires at the time of the Superbowl, this is the place to go. Every year all American Football fans in Argentina gather here to watch the final game of the season. An excellent opportunity to make friends.

Our Local Expert Says:

Look up the events calendar online to keep up to date on the variety of performances, film screenings (including English-language films), and exhibition openings happening every week. If you don't have anything special in mind, go on Wednesday when admission is discounted to 5 pesos.

Description:

Founded in 2001 and started with just the permanent collection owned by its director, Eduardo Constantini, MALBA aims at promoting Latin American art in all its disciplines. Constantini donated to this post-modern gallery works of art that take us on a journey through the history of Spanish American art, from the beginning of its avant-garde movement at the turn of the century to the present. The collection is arranged in such a way to expose the similarities as well as the differences between the artists, other than in chronological order. There are workshops, children activities, temporary exhibitions and work experience for students. Own car park. Free admission.

Description:

Arrive before 10pm on Wednesday to avoid the exhausting lines and enjoy half-priced drinks (and ladies get in free) at this spectacular, multi-level club designed by Gustave Eiffel, where the music ranges from 90's classics to Argentine national rock to popular dance hits. Like at many clubs in Buenos Aires, dinner is served early in the night, and you can choose from a menu of several options, such as a tasty picada of meats and cheeses, sushi, pasta, and pizza. Once the dining tables clear and the music turns up, try to remember that Argentines packing in on a dance floor tend to require significantly less personal space than you may be used to (especially at the overexcited Wednesday "After Office" party). Be sure to make dinner reservations beforehand.

Description:

One of the biggest and best gay clubs in town, wacky Amerika also attracts straights, making for one of the most diverse (and fun) crowds in town, particularly on Sunday nights. Clusters of people mix and mingle on the many levels of the gigantic venue, grooving to the beats spun by an assortment of guest DJs. If you don't want to dance, don't bother coming at all, because you won't find a place to sit down here.