The Penny Pincher's Guide to Buenos Aires

Our Local Expert Says:

Look up the events calendar online to keep up to date on the variety of performances, film screenings (including English-language films), and exhibition openings happening every week. If you don't have anything special in mind, go on Wednesday when admission is discounted to 5 pesos.

Description:

Founded in 2001 and started with just the permanent collection owned by its director, Eduardo Constantini, MALBA aims at promoting Latin American art in all its disciplines. Constantini donated to this post-modern gallery works of art that take us on a journey through the history of Spanish American art, from the beginning of its avant-garde movement at the turn of the century to the present. The collection is arranged in such a way to expose the similarities as well as the differences between the artists, other than in chronological order. There are workshops, children activities, temporary exhibitions and work experience for students. Own car park. Free admission.

Description:

The botanical gardens take up a wide acreage in Plaza Italia, adjacent to the zoo and the La Rural complex. Visitors can stroll on lovely pebble paths through the variety of foliage, notably the prickly cactus garden and the steamy greenhouses. The real highlight of the gardens, though, is the cats. Hundreds of cats dwell in the gardens year-round, lazily basking in the sun and entertaining visitors. This is a wonderful place to bring kids.

Description:

In a nation where meat reigns supreme, finding an organic vegetarian restaurant is nearly impossible. Bio, opened in 2002, is the exception. The "meat" is made on the premises from wheat, then marinated to add more flavor, making for an elevated, tasty variation on a hamburger. All the ingredients are organic, grown or produced strictly in Argentina. Piles of organic cheese line the counters near the chefs, who explain the processes by which they work. Quinoa, the ancient Incan grain, is used in many dishes, some described as Mediterranean-Asian fusion. Try the quinoa risotto, one of the restaurant's specialties, though everything here is simply delicious and fresh. A small shop sells organic chips, teas, cheeses, and even organic wine, and it's a great place for veg-heads to buy snacks. You can also get takeout -- a delight if you want to bring something home with you.

Description:

This art gallery, dedicated to promoting independent thought in Latin American art, showcases the paintings and mixed media work, primarily of local artists. The works convey the feelings and thoughts of the artist, with a variety of themes. The gallery showcases Manuel Ameztoy, whose paintings depict situations that are a departure from reality. In contrast, Eloisa Ballivian's work depicts real life situations which give an insight into a woman's identity in society. Other important artists include Sibyl Cohen, Cristina Schiavi, Max Gomex Canle, Chino Soria, and Manuel Ameztoy.

Our Local Expert Says:

Located just a few blocks from the bustling Plaza Serrano, Nico Alligator is a rare no-frills gallery space that could interest everyone from the art connoisseur to the unknowing wanderer.

Description:

If you manage to get by the pit bull chained near the entrance (he seems to be more bark than bite), you will be pleasantly surprised by the quality of found-object artworks inside this huge, no-frills warehouse, which houses both the artist's studio and exhibition space. From materials such as old pipes, rusted hubcaps, and broken glass, Nico has formed figures that are wonderful positioned together or alone; choose from a twelve-inch dog-walker to a five-foot cupid, complete with bow and arrow. Prices are quite reasonable, but even just browsing is an entertaining event.

Description:

Since 2002, this museum offers a marvelous glimpse at the life of arguably the most remarkable woman in Argentinean history, Eva Duarte de Peron. Divided across thirteen exhibition rooms you'll find an amazing array of items that chronicle her journey from humble young actress to popular first lady committed to help the poor and destitute. Soothing ambient music and several interesting audiovisual displays (English subtitles are always available) help round out an enjoyable and inspirational experience. There is also a nice, comfy resto-bar inside the premises. Guided tours in English are available and highly recommended.

Description:

This complex, energetic, and seductive port city, which stretches south-to-north along the Rio de la Plata has been the gateway to Argentina for centuries. Breakfast, parking, and linens are provided.

Our Local Expert Says:

Weekend bike rentals are available just behind Puerto Madero at Costanera Sur for just a few bucks an hour. Bring the bikes over to Puerto Madero to ride by the water and join in the hundreds of locals who prefer this sunny exercise spot.

Description:

Up until the epic restoration in 1994, the brick docks lining the old port of Buenos Aires remained abandoned. The area now thrives with modern residential and business lofts and offices, bars, restaurants, an eight-theatre cinema complex, and a university while retaining the original English redbrick facades. The 15-block area runs two kilometres along the river bank dotted with fine dining, such as the Parolaccia di Mare. Two historic ships from the Argentine Armada, the Corbeta Uruguay and the Fragata Sarmiento, are moored quayside as floating naval museums.

Description:

This little gem is the quintessential rainy day cafe. Vintage records, like the Rolling Stones' Beggars Banquet and Simon & Garfunkel's soundtrack to The Graduate, are stacked up against the colorful walls, while red vinyl chairs and velvet loveseats seat businessmen and art students alike. Order a double cappuccino to go with your banana split or warm toast served with dulce de leche so creamy you'll want to eat it with a spoon. For something more substantial, try the pesto-laced gnocchi. A pleasing selection of wines by the glass is spelled out in fluorescent chalk above the bar.

Our Local Expert Says:

Right next door to the church is the beautiful Penitentiary Museum, located inside of the former women's prison that is now located near Ezezia airport. For a peso, you can see restored cells and prison offices, as well as a random little art gallery with rotating exhibitions.

Description:

The Parroquia San Pedro Telmo was built by the Jesuits in 1734 and its protection was entrusted to 'San Pedro Telmo'. It has two important bell towers and a statue of the saint in the front. Its interiors with a Latin American cross and three ships emphasize the image of Our Lady of Bethlehem and San Rafael of Archangel. It has a valuable organ, old pictures and a clock donated by English officials. Entrance is free.

Description:

Parque Lezama is located at the southern border of San Telmo, and is a wonderful way to spend a sunny afternoon. With a view of the bright blue onion domes of the Russian Basilica, lazy tree-lined paths, antique marble fountains, and groups of men crowded around the built-in stone chess boards every afternoon, this park recalls a past time when time moved a little bit slower.

Description:

The Jesuits began construction on the Cathedral of Saint Ignatius of Loyola in 1710, which is said to be the oldest church of the city. It was designed in the shape of a Latin cross with a central vaulted nave and lateral naves with upper galleries and deep chapels. The two large baroque-style corbels of the facade create a perspective illusion. The bell tower was once used as watchtower years ago. The bell itself originally marked the hour from the Cabildo (Town Hall) on the Plaza de Mayo square. The dome of white glazed tiles was erected above a polygonal tambour; the baroque-style main doors, hand-carved with friezes and moulding, open unto the central nave. Isidro de Lorea carved the main altar in wood in the 18th century.

Our Local Expert Says:

Don't be put off if the tables all look full inside - the bar is huge and is the best seat in the house. Before 10pm on week nights is happy hour, which means 2-for-1 drink specials, and live music adds some noise

Description:

This French-style cafeteria is a favorite in Buenos Aires, especially at sunset. It constitutes a very special gathering point of youngsters. In the menu, mostly made up European Cuisine dishes, fish is a favorite. Live music shows and DJ presentations with avant-garde European music are in house. Superb menu items, superior drink preparations, and exclusive music selections are the highlights of the venue. There are many parties at night during the week. One of the most important ones is the Noche Francesa (French Night).

Description:

This is a locals-only happening nightclub that features something for all music-lovers-either the DJs are spinning high-voltage tracks from rock standards you can groove to, or there are live jam sessions by local artists for the listening pleasure of hard-core rockers. You will find that the crowd is friendly and easy-going, so grab a drink from the bar and get ready for some good times!

Description:

At La Menesunda Hostel you could live and dance, listen to the classic Quintetos, or listen to some solo singers. This hostel offers typical a good Argentinean BBQ's, and of course, at night a party with friends, music and beers. This is a social place to be!

Our Local Expert Says:

Oftentimes live music entertains the crowds during the weekend fair, so if you're worn out from browsing, take a seat on the hill and enjoy the music and people-watching.

Description:

This plaza, founded in October 1909, comprises some 15,400 square meters of local flora surrounded by cultural centers and the largest outdoor handicrafts fair in the city, La Feria de Recoleta, taking place every Sunday. The appropriately named Francia a Argentina monument at its center was donated in 1910 by France to Argentina commemorating the Centennial of the Revolution of May. The Museum of Fine Arts, monolithic National Library and imposing University Faculty of Law flank the area.

Our Local Expert Says:

Pick up the monthly CC Recoleta schedule in the lobby to see the listings of performances, exhibitions, film screenings, and classes offered at or sponsored by the center. There are also publications available here that list the cultural happenings all over the city.

Description:

Built in 1716 by the Franciscan Recoleto monks, this complex later served as a hospital during the English invasions. In 1928 it was reduced to make way for the expansion of the adjacent Recoleta Cemetery. Years later it became an asylum for over 800 homeless and elderly, until in 1978 it was destined for use as a cultural centre. The walls were fortified and painted in ochre and reddish tones, and it now bustles with cultural and educational activities for young and old. There is a small café, a gift shop and bookstore on the premises. Offices of the United Nations are also found here.

Our Local Expert Says:

For about a dollar you can purchase a map of the cemetery from vendors at the entrance. It will prove to be quite useful when you find yourself in the maze inside.

Description:

This cemetery was a church graveyard until 1882 when the Governor opened it to the general public and renamed it Cemetery of the North. Small, and situated on the city's most valuable land, its importance resides in the many illustrious people that rest here. One of the most visited tombstones is Eva Peron's. The majority of materials used in the construction of tombs between 1880 and 1930 were imported from Paris and Milan, and important sculptural works grace many of the tombs.

Description:

Eating at Las Cuartetas is quite an experience. Don't expect a fancy atmosphere or trendy background music, in fact almost nothing changed there since the 1940s. The waiters don't speak English and forget about a bilingual menu. But before you get scared, rest assure that Las Cuartetas is unanimously hailed as the best pizzeria of Buenos Aires. You would be hard-pressed to find such a simple yet fantastically savory pizza anywhere in the world. Give this place a try and just focus on the food. You won't be disappointed. Las Cuartetas does not accept credit cards

Description:

Opened in 1992, though begun in the 1970s, this modern architectural oddity stands on the land of the former Presidential Residence where Eva Perón died. (The building was demolished by the new government so that it would not become a holy site to Evita's millions of supporters after her death.) It is a spectacular example of 1970s Brutalist architecture, which was extremely popular under the dictatorship. Built almost as a fortress, among its distinctions are its porthole windows at ground level, the raising of the actual structure off the ground, long approach ramps, moatlike berm landscaping, and the difficulty in determining where the actual entrance is. With its underground levels, the library's 13 floors can store up to five million volumes. Among its collection, the library stores 21 books printed by one of the earliest printing presses, dating from 1440 to 1500. Visit the reading room -- occupying two stories at the top of the building -- to enjoy an awe-inspiring view of Buenos Aires. The library also hosts special events in its exhibition hall and auditorium.

Our Local Expert Says:

The tour is indeed educational, but if you prefer just to poke around, no one will stop you from getting on the elevator and showing yourself around. Head to the top floor to check out the interior domes and the view.

Description:

The Palacio Barolo is a remarkable and luxurious building, designed by Italian architect Mario Palanti by request of a powerful Argentinean textile tycoon. Finished in 1923, the Palacio Barolo was meant to be the final resting place of Dante Alighieri's ashes, a safe haven for the writer's remains far away from a war-torn Europe. That dream never came true, and today it is mainly used as an office building. Filled with countless exquisite references to the Divine Comedy and wonderfully decorated, it was the tallest construction in South America for several years. The view of Buenos Aires city-centre from the 24th floor is second to none.

Description:

Gibraltar is one of the most popular watering holes in San Telmo, drawing an international crowd to this small space for the pool tables, TV screens showing local soccer games, and, oddly, the spicy Indian and Thai-inspired menu. The green curry is a local favorite, as are the cheeseburgers, which tend to be a commodity in Buenos Aires. The good selection of already cheap beers on tap and drinks are half-price during happy hour, which stretches into a healthy 5 hours on week nights.

Description:

Despite the name, it is not all about futbol in Locos por el Futbol. It is a family place in the heart of Recoleta that is always showing futbol games on dozens of TV sets. You are sure to find a good game to watch. There is also a nice futbol memorabilia shop right next to the front door. It is very complete, but a bit expensive. The food is very good and the high points are the pasta and pizza. An insider tip: if you happen to be in Buenos Aires at the time of the Superbowl, this is the place to go. Every year all American Football fans in Argentina gather here to watch the final game of the season. An excellent opportunity to make friends.