Museuems of Cairo

Our Local Expert Says:

Felfela is a Cairo fast food institution, and well worth the visit!

Description:

Beloved of tourists and locals alike, Felfela is a Cairo fast food institution. On the right as you head up Talaat Harb street towards the midan, Felfela is a simple, brightly coloured and brightly lit restaurant that offers a whole range of Egyptian street food classics.

You can get koshary (with or without meat), chicken or beef shawerma, different types of taamiya and felafel sandwiches, all sorts of fuul... simply name your staple!

Although it's a bit more expensive than the proper dive restaurants offering this food, Felfela is still cheap, and reassuringly hygienic.

The way it works is easy: you order and pay at the cash desk, and the staff will give you a ticket. (Felfela has menus in English, and the staff speak English too.) You take your ticket to the appropriate part of the restaurant (the staff will tell you where to go if you aren't sure), and swap it for some food!

You can either eat amongst the other customers, standing up at the waist-height counters, or take your food to go. Either way, it's delicious!

Felfela is set right amongst the action of Downtown Cairo. Afterwards, why not head to the nearby Stella Bar, Horeya, or Odeon Palace Bar, and grab yourself a local beer to wash your food down!

There is also a proper sit down version of the restaurant just around the corner on Hoda Sharaawy Street.

Description:

The stately grandeur of this palace owes to its construction in 1863 at a time when a worldwide cotton shortage meant huge revenues for Egyptian cotton exports. It served as a royal palace until the end of the monarchy in 1952, when it became the home of the president. In the 1980s, President Hosni Mubarak decided to restore the decaying building and turn it into a weapons and medals museum, a process that was interrupted by a major earthquake in 1992.

Housing every conceivable means of killing an enemy, the weapons section is always a hit with young males. Its extensive collection of knives, guns and cannons, as well as ingenious combinations, is impressive and well-labelled. Another section is dedicated to a large, and somewhat monotonous, exhibit of medals and gifts presented to President Mubarak on various occasions, as well as medals given to members of the former royal family and Egyptian celebrities. No video cameras are allowed.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Museum of Islamic Art has the most varied collection of Islamic artefacts in Egypt, and is worth visiting for this reason alone. It is situated in an interesting area of Cairo, where Downtown is merging in to Islamic Cairo proper, and is a fascinating place to stroll around. Take a map, and enjoy getting lost!

Description:

The Museum of Islamic Art was first approved by Khedive Ismail in the mid 19th Century, though nothing happened until 1881 when a small collection was established in the then-ruined al-Hakim Mosque. Over the years the collection slowly grew, until in 1902 an entirely new museum was built on the outskirts of Islamic Cairo.

The Museum of Islamic Art is hosted in a beautiful neo-Mamluk building, which also contains the National Library. It is considered to be one of the most important museums of Islamic Art in the world, with thousands of artefacts on display, covering all Islamic eras. As well as exquisite ceramics, woodwork, metalwork and calligraphy, the Museum of Islamic Art contains some stunning examples of Iranian and Turkish carpets. Make sure to check out the delicately carved boxes for holding the Quran, and spare a few minutes to relax next to the fountain in the central courtyard.

The Museum of Islamic Art is situated in Bab el Khalq square, and is a short walk from both Mohammed Naguib and Ataba Metro stations. Abdeen Palace is also a few minutes walk away.

Description:

Estoril is a cosy restaurant/bar tucked down an alley in Downtown. It's a small place, and although the smart tables are close together, it still feels quite intimate. The lighting is soft, and the atmosphere muted. There is no music, so soft conversation provides the aural backdrop.

Estoril is decorated in a restrained, classy fashion: modern Arabic paintings adorn the walls, and there are a few mashrabia screens dotted about. The end of the room is dominated by a heavy wooden bar, complete with mashrabia panelling, and an ornate, gilded mirror.

The staff are usually very welcoming, and the service is generally good: attentive and efficient, without being fussy. The menu at Estoril consists of classic Arabic dishes, many of which have been given a French twist. Start your meal with a selection of hot and cold mezze, and move on to a main of chicken, beef or veal. The chicken with molokheiya is pretty good. There's also a good selection of seafood, and – unusually for Egypt – a decent choice of quality veggie dishes. Finish with fresh fruit salad, or a traditional sweet mihallabiya.

Don't feel rushed to leave after your meal – grab a stool next to the beautiful bar, and linger over a drink or two.

Note that Estoril can be rather hit and miss. Sometimes the food and service is great; other times it's mediocre at best. And some nights, especially at weekends, the bar can be rather boisterous, whereas other nights it's all but dead. It's worth turning up to see what's going on, because there are lots of other places nearby like The Greek Club and Le Grillon.

Description:

Technically, Zamalek is the northern half of the island Gazira, although most people refer to the whole island as Zamalek. The southern tip hosts the Sofitel hotel, Opera house, Planetarium and Museum of Modern Islamic Art. The middle of the island is taken up by the greenery of various private members clubs, such as the exclusive Nadi al-Gazira, and also the bizarre Fish Garden park. The northern half of the island is, by Egyptian standards, a relatively green and peaceful residential area. The area is affluent, popular with expats, and hosts a number of foreign embassies. There are lots of good quality shops in Zamalek, selling western style and designer clothes, jewellery, and some exquisite and original crafts. The main branch of Fair Trade Egypt is also on Zamalek, and well worth a visit. The staff are very knowledgeable, and have lots of information about the community groups they work with around Egypt. The Sawy Cultural Centre is also on Zamalek, at the western end of the busy 26 July street. They always have interesting art exhibitions going on, host lots of concerts, and even have a non-smoking café! Finally, Zamalek is home to tons of trendy and quirky restaurants, bars and cafes. Best of the bunch are probably La Bodega, L'Aubergine, and Sequoia; competition is fierce, and the list ever-growing.

Description:

This museum was specially built to house the works of Mohammed Mokhtar, one of Egypt's most celebrated sculptors. Mokhtar died in 1934, but his works are still enormously popular with Egyptians. The elegant building houses 85 bronze, stone and plaster sculptures by the eminent sculptor.

Description:

Egypt has a long association with the performing arts, stretching all the way back to pharaonic times. The first Royal Opera House was built in 1869, to celebrate the opening of the Suez Canal. Sadly, in 1971 it was completely destroyed by a fire. The replacement, designed by a Japanese architect, was not officially opened until 1988, and was a joint venture between the Ministry of Culture in Cairo and the Japan International Co-operation agency.

The Cairo Opera house is set on the south end of Gezira Island (often known as Zamalek) and is a marvel of postmodern architecture. The exterior is suggestive of traditional Islamic design, yet the interior is a heady blend of the pharaonic and the Baroque! The Cairo Opera House is part of the National Cultural Centre, whose aim is to promote and encourage art, music and dance, and to preserve traditional Arabic music.

There are two main concert halls, as well as an open air theatre. All sorts of performances take place here, from classical music and opera to ballet, traditional music and pop concerts. It's well worth checking the schedule to see what's going on, as all the events are very reasonably priced. Note that the Museum of Modern Islamic Art is also housed in the complex.

Our Local Expert Says:

Fantastic views of Cairo

Description:

The 187 metre high Cairo Tower is arguably Cairo's second most famous landmark (no prizes for guessing number one)! It is the fourth largest tower in the world, made of granite, and styled to look like a lotus plant (the symbol of Upper Egypt).

The Cairo Tower offers fantastic views of the city, and on a clear day you can see all the way from the Pyramids in the west to the Muqattam Hills in the east. The River Nile looks particularly spectacular from this far up, and there are telescopes available to enhance your city-gazing. You ascend the tower in a lift, and there is a revolving restaurant and a café at the top.

The Cairo Tower was completed in 1961, and was caught up in the politics of the age. It was built with American money, and some say that it was actually Russian engineers that designed the tower. Locals believe that as well as a lotus plant, the tower represents the 'middle finger' directed towards the USA, for blocking Nasser's request for a World Bank loan to build the Aswan High Dam.

Whatever the truth of these claims, the Cairo Tower is an unforgettable landmark with spectacular views, and is therefore well worth a visit. It is particularly pretty at night, when lit up by a shifting display of coloured lights. Situated on Gezira Island (more commonly known as Zamalek), the tower is best reached by taxi.

Description:

Located a couple of minutes' walk from the Cairo Marriott in a nicely restored palace, the Islamic Ceramics Museum contains a stunning collection of ceramic pots, plates, and bowls from the 9th to the 18th centuries. It is also worth visiting simply for the building, which was originally a small palace for Prince Amr Ibrahim in the 19th century and was seized by the government in 1953. Designed by a Turkish architect, it is a graceful and balanced building, especially in contrast to some of the old colonial piles you'll see if you take the time to stroll around Zamalek or Garden City.

The documentation is uninformative, but most of the pieces in the museum speak for themselves. The atmosphere of the usually half-deserted old palace still makes it a great place to relax after a hectic day in Islamic Cairo. Note: Non-flash photography is permitted free of charge, but officially you need to get permission from the (rarely present) director. In practice, just ask at the door, and there'll usually be no problem.

Our Local Expert Says:

Al-Sawy Cultural Centre has all sorts of music and exhibitions going on all the time

Description:

Al-Sawy Cultural Centre, at the west end of 26th July Street in Zamalek, is a gem. This progressive and modern cultural centre has a number of halls and exhibition areas given over to cultural activities.

Each month there are different art exhibitions, from traditional Arabic calligraphy to watercolour landscapes. They also host photography exhibitions and craft fairs, and run a number of courses. Fancy learning a bit of yoga, or how to play the tabla? Al-Sawy Cultural Centre is the place to ask, since even if they don't offer the course themselves, they'll know a place that does.

Al-Sawy Cultural centre also has live music each week, from local heavy metal to classical oud, and sometimes performers from abroad. The centre is open to non-members, and many exhibitions are free. You have to pay for the music and the courses, though prices are very low, and discounted for members.

Al-Sawy Cultural Centre also has a pleasant garden area, and a simple café with free Wi-Fi. Unusually for Cairo, the whole of the premises is non-smoking!

Our Local Expert Says:

This is one of the best restaurants in Egypt for traditonal Egyptian cuisine

Description:

Abou el Sid, located on Zamalek, offers excellent, authentic Egyptian cuisine in very atmospheric surroundings. Décor is traditional Arabesque, heavy on the mashrabiyya wooden panelling, but the atmosphere is lively and down to earth. A word of warning though - the staff can be incredibly rude, and the service isn't always great.

Don't let this put you off though, because Abou el Sid is an excellent place to share a selection of mouth-watering mezzes, and offers a wide range of traditional Egyptian mains. Try the Rabbit with Molokheiya for a real taste of rural Egypt, their old-school fish Sayadeya, or opt for Egypt's national dish, Koshary (a mix of pasta, lentils, fried onions and tomato sauce). Abou el Sid also serves a range of alcohol, and Egyptian water pipes (shishas).

Abou el Sid gets very busy, so it's advisable to book in advance. If you can't get a table, L'Aubergine and La Bodega are near by, or you could try the Abou el Sid branches in Mohandiseen, Maadi or City Stars.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Religion Compound has a uniquely serene atmosphere, and it’s easy to while away a few hours lazily exploring the cobbled streets and religious buildings.

Description:

The Religion Compound is one of the most picturesque and charming areas in the whole of Cairo. It consists of a small area built around the remains of the old Roman fortress of Babylon on the Nile, and contains pretty much all of the tourist sights of Old Cairo (also known as Coptic Cairo, and Fustat).

The Religion Compound is littered with monuments from all three of the main monotheistic religions, as well as the Coptic Museum and the Coptic Cemetery. Some of the more famous churches here include the Greek Church of St George (one of the few round churches still in existence in the region) and the Hanging Church (with its famous suspended nave). The Amr Ibn el-Aas Mosque is located just north of the compound, and was the first mosque ever built in Egypt (although it has been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times).

Make sure you head down the passageway to the left of the Church of St George: it takes you in to a maze of exquisite cobbled lanes that wind past numerous other religious buildings. Must-see monuments here include the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus (believed to be the oldest in Cairo, and built on the spot where Jesus and his family rested after their flight to Egypt), the Church of St Shenuti, and the beautiful Ben Ezra Synagogue.

The Religion Compound can be reached by taxi (ask for Fustat) or by Metro: Mar Girgis Station is directly opposite the Coptic Museum.

Our Local Expert Says:

Although much smaller than the Egyptian Museum, the Coptic Museum is every bit as fascinating. Use it to escape from the heat of the day, and make sure you find time to relax in the gardens too.

Description:

The Coptic Museum houses the largest collection of Coptic artefacts in the world, with over 16,000 pieces on display. Copt comes from the Greek word for Egypt, and Coptic Christians are Egyptian Christians. Mark the Evangelist is credited with introducing Christianity to Egypt in the first century after Christ, and with similarities to aspects of ancient Egyptian belief, it quickly took hold.

The Coptic Museum traces the development of Christianity in Egypt from its beginnings to the present. The museum is housed in a beautiful old building in the precinct of the old Roman Babylon Fort, and artefacts are spread out over two floors. The objects displayed are varied, and include art in various mediums such as metal, stone and wood, as well as manuscripts and textiles.

A large part of the appeal is that the Coptic Museum forges a link between the worlds of ancient Egypt, Christianity and Islam. For example, it is fascinating to see how the ankh symbol of Egypt gradually evolved into the Christian cross known today. The museum also includes very beautiful gardens that provide a wonderful place to relax.

The Coptic Museum is situated in the heart of Old Cairo, amongst the other buildings that make up the Religion Compound. As well as by taxi, it is easy to get here by Metro – get off at Mar Girgis station, and the museum is directly opposite.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you have an interest in the bizarre and the slightly grotesque, then the Hunting Museum in Manyal Palace Museum is the most fascinating place in Cairo. If you don’t, then steer well clear!

Description:

Manyal Palace Museum was set up by Prince Mohammed Ali Tawfiq, father of King Farouk, in 1899. It was intended to commemorate Islamic Art, as well as to act as living quarters for the Prince and his family.

The architecture, decorations and furniture cover a range of Islamic styles, including Moroccan, Persian and Syrian. The sheer opulence of the dwelling is overwhelming. The Manyal Palace Museum is set in a large garden, populated by rare trees and plants from all over the world. It's a nice place to catch some shade, and perhaps have a bite to eat.

The most interesting part of the Manyal Palace Museum is the Hunting Museum, which exhibits possessions and conquests of King Farouk. This museum is totally bizarre, and not for animal lovers or the politically correct. It includes over 100 stuffed and mounted Ibex heads, lots of very pretty insects and butterflies, a diorama of a lobster attacking a crab, and even some huge elephant tusks. Pride of place must go to the photograph of the hermaphroditic goat, or to the ostrich head – complete with feet, but no body!

The Manyal Palace Museum is situated on Rhoda Island, and so is just about within walking distance of Sayeda Zeinab Metro station; as always, however, taking a taxi is the safest bet.

Description:

Opened on 17 June 1977, this museum pays a fine tribute to the great poet Ahmed Shawki, voted the Emir (the prince) of the Arab Poem. The museum features the poet's bedroom, study, and his extensive library. Of particular note are the 713 poem manuscripts. The museum's collection also includes medals, awards and gifts awarded to the poet in acknowledgment of his great achievements.

Our Local Expert Says:

In the summer, check out the open air courtyard at the Greek Club: the perfect place to have a drink and a nibble on a breezy summer evening

Description:

Situated just off Midan Talaat Harb in Downtown, the Greek Club is open to everyone. Non-members have to pay an entrance fee of 5 LE, and there is a cover charge of 1 LE and a minimum charge of 30 LE.

You get far more than you pay for, however, because the Greek Club is in some ways one gorgeous contradiction. The dining room is minimalist elegance personified: an open, almost breezy space with high, vaulted ceilings and ridged columns. The colour scheme is yellow and cream with deep red trim, which also extends to the tables dotted about the vast room. The walls are livened up with the occasional colourful painting.

At odds with the sophisticated surroundings of the Greek Club, is the informal vibe. The staff are very friendly, and the atmosphere can border on the raucous. The high ceilings do nothing to swallow the babble of voices, which even drown out the traditional Greek music playing through chunky speakers.

The menu at the Greek Club is not that comprehensive: there are some mezze, a suitably delicious Greek salad, chicken escallops, and a fair bit of seafood (the calamari is divine), but no moussaka. The food is cheap and cheerful, and for a downtown bar, the drinks prices are criminally low. As well as beer and wine, ouzo is also available.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you visit only one Islamic monument in Cairo, make it the Citadel: the views are stunning, and you get a three-for-one deal on mosques!

Description:

The Citadel is one of Cairo's most popular and readily identifiable attractions. In the 12th Century AD Salah ad-Din (known as Saladin in the west) recognised that Cairo needed a fortress to help protect the city against attack by the Crusaders. He chose this prominent limestone spur, that is now on the edge of what is known as Islamic Cairo, for his stronghold. It later became the seat of government, until the middle of the 19th Century. It has always maintained some sort of military garrison, even up to the present day.

The Citadel offers some of the most spectacular views of Cairo, and it's great fun trying to identify sights from here that you have already visited. You should even be able to make out the Pyramids!

It also contains three mosques that represent very different architectural styles: the Mamluk an-Nasir Mohammed Mosque, the Ottoman Suleiman Pasha Mosque, and the Mohammed Ali Mosque. The latter is huge and opulent, and its spires dominate the skyline of Cairo.

As well as the views, fortifications and mosques, the Citadel has a number of museums: the Military Museum; the Police Museum; al-Gawhara Palace Museum; and the Carriage Museum.

The Citadel is best reached by taxi. Just next door are the Sultan Hassan Mosque and al-Refa'i Mosque, and it's also possible to walk towards Ibn Tulun Mosque and the Gayer-Anderson Museum, or even to Khan el-Khalili bazaar.

Description:

Built in 1814, this was formerly the residence of Muhammed Ali Pasha and the location where, according to legend, he waited while his forces entrapped Mameluke leaders and massacred them as they were leaving the Citadel. Its restored 19th-century Ottoman rooms now contain royal portraits, paintings, costumes and furnishings of the period. It also includes a nice garden.

Description:

With more space devoted to ceremonial equipment and costumes than the brutal realities of war, pacifists should not be deterred by the name of this museum. Scale models and life-size simulations depict several of Egypt's key battles, and visitors can actually step into the scene in which Egyptian soldiers cleverly blasted the "impregnable" sand Bar-Lev line with water cannons.

Description:

This small museum housed in a former British officers mess hall contains eight carriages used by Egyptian royalty. There are horse heads, saddles and riding equipment on display. The highlight is the glittering gold carriage presented by Napoleon to Khedive Ismail. Nearby is the carriage used by Khedive Ismail when he opened the Suez Canal in 1869.

Description:

This quirky museum features rooms devoted to Egypt's most sensational murders and assassinations (although strangely Sadats is overlooked). It also showcases the 40 cells in which political prisoners were detained and tortured during the 1950s and 1960s. Some of the displays are bizarre to say the least, but there are many (like photos of battles against colonial forces) that will stir patriotic tendencies among Egyptian visitors.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Gayer-Anderson museum is more than just a collection of old stuff: it is a fascinating journey through one man’s obsession with history, packed with surprises at every turn. Combine it with a visit to the Ibn Tulun Mosque next door.

Description:

The Gayer-Anderson museum is formed from two houses of the 15th and 16th centuries joined by a bridge. The houses use the outer wall of Ibn Tulun Mosque for support, and were nearly knocked down in 1928. Luckily, they were so well preserved that they were spared, and in 1935 a British Major called John Gayer-Anderson was given permission to move in. He oversaw restoration of the houses, and filled them with his own personal, eclectic collection of art and furnishings from the Near East. The Gayer-Anderson Museum is jam-packed with Islamic history of all kinds, and even includes an interesting section inspired by ancient Egypt. Like the adjacent Ibn Tulun Mosque, the Gayer-Andersen Museum was used as a location in Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me; and it is said to be protected by the spirit of a Muslim sheikh who will blind would-be robbers! As with most sites in Cairo, it's easiest to get here by taxi.

Our Local Expert Says:

Khan el Khalili Bazaar is Egypt in microcosm – exotic, friendly, overwhelming and chaotic! Try the fateers at the Egyptian Pancake House next to Al Azhar street for an authentic taste of Egypt, and make sure you check out the many local markets that spiral out from the main part of Khan el Khalili bazaar.

Description:

Established in the 14th Century, and in constant use since then, Khan al-Khalili (or more simply, The Khan) is Egypt at its most intoxicating. Cairo has always been an important trade centre, and this tradition continues today in the bustling maze of alleys that forms Khan al-Khalili Bazaar.

The Khan itself is relatively small, and is largely devoted to tourists. There are souvenirs here for every taste and budget: spices, jewellery, inlaid mother-of-pearl boxes and backgammon sets, water pipes, scarves, lamps, delicate perfume bottles (and the perfume to go in them)… you can even get yourself a singing, dancing camel!

Be warned, though, the traders here are black belts at haggling – so be firm, but maintain your sense of humour and enjoy the experience for what it is: the raucous, beating heart of commerce the old-school way.

When the banter gets too much, relax in al-Fishawi Coffee Shop with a water pipe and a strong Turkish coffee. This café has been open 24 hours a day since 1773, and Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz is said to have visited every day up to his death in 2006.

At the east end of the Khan is al-Hussein Square, home to the beautiful al-Hussein Mosque. The western end is bound by Muizz li-Din Allah Street. You can head north to Bab al-Futuh, past Islamic monuments such as al-Aqmar Mosque and Beit al-Souhaymi, or south towards Bab Zwayla and the Street of the Tentmakers. Leading west from Khan al-Khalili towards Ataba is al-Muski Street, a crazy local market that is well worth exploring.

To get to Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, take a taxi to al-Azhar Mosque and cross the road via the underpass. The more adventurous traveller can walk up to the bazaar from Ataba Metro station, along al-Muski.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Egyptian Pancake House serves decent fateers on the edge of Khan al Khalili

Description:

The Egyptian Pancake House is situated in on the edge Khan al-Khalili bazaar, and is a good place to eat in the area.

Egyptian pancakes (sometimes referred to as pizzas or pies) are actually known as feteers, and are sort of like a pizza topping stuffed inside a crepe. They are a perfect quick and tasty filler.

The Egyptian Pancake House offers various savoury and sweet feteers, and the best thing to do is to take a selection, and share. They aren't the best in Cairo, but they are authentic, and compared to a lot of the overpriced rubbish served up in the bazaar area, if you do need to eat, this is a good bet.

The spicy sausage feteer is particularly good, as is the honey, nuts and cream. Watch how the chef makes the pastry, slapping it on the counter and swinging it around his head to stretch the dough.

At the Egyptian Pancake House, you eat your feteers sitting at plastic tables and chairs balanced on the busy pavement, with a stream of vendors and the occasional tour bus parading past. This organised chaos, so typical of Cairo, is a big part of the fun!