The Nile in Cairo

Description:

Technically, Zamalek is the northern half of the island Gazira, although most people refer to the whole island as Zamalek. The southern tip hosts the Sofitel hotel, Opera house, Planetarium and Museum of Modern Islamic Art. The middle of the island is taken up by the greenery of various private members clubs, such as the exclusive Nadi al-Gazira, and also the bizarre Fish Garden park. The northern half of the island is, by Egyptian standards, a relatively green and peaceful residential area. The area is affluent, popular with expats, and hosts a number of foreign embassies. There are lots of good quality shops in Zamalek, selling western style and designer clothes, jewellery, and some exquisite and original crafts. The main branch of Fair Trade Egypt is also on Zamalek, and well worth a visit. The staff are very knowledgeable, and have lots of information about the community groups they work with around Egypt. The Sawy Cultural Centre is also on Zamalek, at the western end of the busy 26 July street. They always have interesting art exhibitions going on, host lots of concerts, and even have a non-smoking café! Finally, Zamalek is home to tons of trendy and quirky restaurants, bars and cafes. Best of the bunch are probably La Bodega, L'Aubergine, and Sequoia; competition is fierce, and the list ever-growing.

Our Local Expert Says:

Fantastic views of Cairo

Description:

The 187 metre high Cairo Tower is arguably Cairo's second most famous landmark (no prizes for guessing number one)! It is the fourth largest tower in the world, made of granite, and styled to look like a lotus plant (the symbol of Upper Egypt).

The Cairo Tower offers fantastic views of the city, and on a clear day you can see all the way from the Pyramids in the west to the Muqattam Hills in the east. The River Nile looks particularly spectacular from this far up, and there are telescopes available to enhance your city-gazing. You ascend the tower in a lift, and there is a revolving restaurant and a café at the top.

The Cairo Tower was completed in 1961, and was caught up in the politics of the age. It was built with American money, and some say that it was actually Russian engineers that designed the tower. Locals believe that as well as a lotus plant, the tower represents the 'middle finger' directed towards the USA, for blocking Nasser's request for a World Bank loan to build the Aswan High Dam.

Whatever the truth of these claims, the Cairo Tower is an unforgettable landmark with spectacular views, and is therefore well worth a visit. It is particularly pretty at night, when lit up by a shifting display of coloured lights. Situated on Gezira Island (more commonly known as Zamalek), the tower is best reached by taxi.

Our Local Expert Says:

This is a popular hang-out for the young and beautiful

Description:

Situated next to the Nile on Zamalek, Sequoia is a favourite haunt of fashionable young Cairenes. You can choose to sit at one of dozens of outdoor tables, or lounge on comfy cushions in the shelter of Sequoia's white marquee. Sequoia serves a wide range of Egyptian and Mediterranean classics, and also has a decent sushi menu. As well as food, Sequoia has a wide selection of alcohol and shisha pipes (water pipes), and is renowned for its cocktails. Service can be a bit on the slow side, but Sequoia is a place to take your time and enjoy the beautiful Nile-side setting. It's a particularly good place to catch sunset, as the calls of the muezzin float over the water while you sip your cocktail and puff contentedly on your shisha.

Our Local Expert Says:

Al-Sawy Cultural Centre has all sorts of music and exhibitions going on all the time

Description:

Al-Sawy Cultural Centre, at the west end of 26th July Street in Zamalek, is a gem. This progressive and modern cultural centre has a number of halls and exhibition areas given over to cultural activities.

Each month there are different art exhibitions, from traditional Arabic calligraphy to watercolour landscapes. They also host photography exhibitions and craft fairs, and run a number of courses. Fancy learning a bit of yoga, or how to play the tabla? Al-Sawy Cultural Centre is the place to ask, since even if they don't offer the course themselves, they'll know a place that does.

Al-Sawy Cultural centre also has live music each week, from local heavy metal to classical oud, and sometimes performers from abroad. The centre is open to non-members, and many exhibitions are free. You have to pay for the music and the courses, though prices are very low, and discounted for members.

Al-Sawy Cultural Centre also has a pleasant garden area, and a simple café with free Wi-Fi. Unusually for Cairo, the whole of the premises is non-smoking!

Description:

What better way to enjoy a meal than staring out of your window to a gorgeous view of the River Nile! The Hard Rock Cafe at Cairo is a space devoted to rock 'n' roll. Blue checkered tablecloths, large windows and tons of music memorabilia adorn this joint. Choose from a selection of quintessential Hard Rock fare like burgers, steaks, barbeque and much more. Desserts like the Chocolate Peanut Butter Crunch or the Homestyle Cheesecake will have you abandoning your diet for sure. Since the place is open until the wee hours, it's perfect for those late night munchies. Enjoy!

Our Local Expert Says:

The most kid-friendly attraction in Cairo

Description:

Accessible only by boat, this private tourist project on an island in the Nile south of the Giza Bridge attempts to simulate life and work in ancient Egypt. Some find the living museum campy, but most will enjoy the two-hour boat tour past costumed performers acting out ancient Egyptian agriculture, crafts and industries. There is also a mock temple and several museums. The acres of papyrus swamps are a botanist's delight, and the two cafes and children's playground make the island an ideal family daytrip. All tours are multilingual.

Description:

At the southern tip of Roda Island, between the Manasterly Palace and the Um Kalthoum Museum, this well was used to measure the height of the Nile through the course of its annual fluctuations. Taxes could be calibrated from knowing the height of the floods, and the timing of the opening and closing of irrigation and drainage canals around the delta could be determined. Entering at the top, you can walk almost to the bottom by way of a narrow staircase cut into the side. The top is enclosed in an attractive 19th-century dome. The grounds around the Nilometer are relaxed and pleasant, with a view south up the river toward Dahab and, usually, a cool breeze off the water.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Religion Compound has a uniquely serene atmosphere, and it’s easy to while away a few hours lazily exploring the cobbled streets and religious buildings.

Description:

The Religion Compound is one of the most picturesque and charming areas in the whole of Cairo. It consists of a small area built around the remains of the old Roman fortress of Babylon on the Nile, and contains pretty much all of the tourist sights of Old Cairo (also known as Coptic Cairo, and Fustat).

The Religion Compound is littered with monuments from all three of the main monotheistic religions, as well as the Coptic Museum and the Coptic Cemetery. Some of the more famous churches here include the Greek Church of St George (one of the few round churches still in existence in the region) and the Hanging Church (with its famous suspended nave). The Amr Ibn el-Aas Mosque is located just north of the compound, and was the first mosque ever built in Egypt (although it has been destroyed and rebuilt numerous times).

Make sure you head down the passageway to the left of the Church of St George: it takes you in to a maze of exquisite cobbled lanes that wind past numerous other religious buildings. Must-see monuments here include the Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus (believed to be the oldest in Cairo, and built on the spot where Jesus and his family rested after their flight to Egypt), the Church of St Shenuti, and the beautiful Ben Ezra Synagogue.

The Religion Compound can be reached by taxi (ask for Fustat) or by Metro: Mar Girgis Station is directly opposite the Coptic Museum.

Description:

One of Cairo's oldest and most famous dinner cruises, this is a splendid way to see the Nile and city skyline at its best. Few restaurants can compete with the romantic setting of dinner on a Nile cruise ship. The M/S Scarabee, managed by Sofitel, is smaller than other river cruise ships but certainly no less elegant. Nightly entertainment includes live music and a belly-dancer. Enjoy a drink on the top deck before indulging in the international buffet. There is a choice selection of grilled meats, chicken and fish, plus many delicious vegetarian dishes. Cruises last two hours.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Giza Plateau must be the most famous, most fascinating and most mysterious archaeological site in the world

Description:

Situated about 25 km south west of the centre of Cairo, the Giza Plateau has been a necropolis since at least the start of the Pharaonic period. For many people, the chance to visit the Giza Plateau is a childhood dream come true, because this is where the most famous Egyptian Pyramids are situated.

The Giza Plateau is home to the Great Pyramid of Khufu (known to the Greeks as Cheops), the Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren), and the Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus), and also the Great Sphinx and the Valley Temple, and the Solar Boat Museum.

As well as these famous attractions, there are numerous secondary pyramids that were built for queens and children of the pharaohs. All are believed to have been built during the Fourth Dynasty, over four thousand years ago! However, there are also numerous mastaba tombs dotted about the Giza Plateau, some of which date back to the First Dynasty and the beginning of the Pharaonic period.

The Giza Plateau has been intensively and systematically studied since the end of the 18th Century, but new discoveries are still being made. No-one knows how many of ancient Egypt's secrets are still locked up beneath the shifting desert sands. For many visitors, however, the most surprising thing is that the Giza Plateau is no longer isolated in the middle of the desert, but is actually right next to a suburb of Giza. The past and present truly are intertwined in Cairo!

Our Local Expert Says:

Khan el Khalili Bazaar is Egypt in microcosm – exotic, friendly, overwhelming and chaotic! Try the fateers at the Egyptian Pancake House next to Al Azhar street for an authentic taste of Egypt, and make sure you check out the many local markets that spiral out from the main part of Khan el Khalili bazaar.

Description:

Established in the 14th Century, and in constant use since then, Khan al-Khalili (or more simply, The Khan) is Egypt at its most intoxicating. Cairo has always been an important trade centre, and this tradition continues today in the bustling maze of alleys that forms Khan al-Khalili Bazaar.

The Khan itself is relatively small, and is largely devoted to tourists. There are souvenirs here for every taste and budget: spices, jewellery, inlaid mother-of-pearl boxes and backgammon sets, water pipes, scarves, lamps, delicate perfume bottles (and the perfume to go in them)… you can even get yourself a singing, dancing camel!

Be warned, though, the traders here are black belts at haggling – so be firm, but maintain your sense of humour and enjoy the experience for what it is: the raucous, beating heart of commerce the old-school way.

When the banter gets too much, relax in al-Fishawi Coffee Shop with a water pipe and a strong Turkish coffee. This café has been open 24 hours a day since 1773, and Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz is said to have visited every day up to his death in 2006.

At the east end of the Khan is al-Hussein Square, home to the beautiful al-Hussein Mosque. The western end is bound by Muizz li-Din Allah Street. You can head north to Bab al-Futuh, past Islamic monuments such as al-Aqmar Mosque and Beit al-Souhaymi, or south towards Bab Zwayla and the Street of the Tentmakers. Leading west from Khan al-Khalili towards Ataba is al-Muski Street, a crazy local market that is well worth exploring.

To get to Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, take a taxi to al-Azhar Mosque and cross the road via the underpass. The more adventurous traveller can walk up to the bazaar from Ataba Metro station, along al-Muski.

Our Local Expert Says:

It is well worth popping in to Al Azhar Mosque. Don’t be intimidated by the religious and scholastic air, people are more than happy to accommodate tourists.

Description:

Al Azhar Mosque is one of the most beautiful mosques in Egypt, if not the whole world. It was established in 972 AD, the first Fatimid monument built in Cairo. Its name means "the most blooming", after one of the prophet Mohammed's daughters.

Al Azhar Mosque has been renovated and extended over the years, and it reflects a number of architectural styles. The large main courtyard is a particular highlight: 275 by 112 feet, made of glistening white marble, and home to hundreds of ancient columns. The five minarets are particularly elegant, and can be seen from much of Cairo. It is possible to climb some of the towers, though they are often locked and you should remember to give the porter a little something for his trouble.

Al Azhar Mosque is also arguably the most significant in the whole of the Sunni Muslim world: it is home to the second oldest University in the world, established in 975 AD, which specialises in all forms of Islamic studies. The scholars of the university are very well respected, and are often called upon to issue fatwas, or religious rulings.

Al Azhar Mosque is situated in the heart of Islamic Cairo, opposite Midan al-Hussein and Khan al-Khalili bazaar. It is best visited by taxi, though you could also walk up from Ataba Metro station.

Our Local Expert Says:

A felucca ride in Maadi is a peaceful, picturesque way to enjoy the River Nile from up close and personal.

Description:

The Greek historian Herodotus described Egypt as the "gift of the Nile". One of the best things to do in Cairo is go for a sail on the Nile on a felucca. A felucca is a traditional Egyptian sailing boat, that can be crewed by just one man.

Sailing the Nile on a felucca is one of the few ways to escape the chaos of Cairo, and actually get some peace and quiet! All you can hear is the gentle lapping of the water against the hull, and the flapping of the sails (OK, you will probably still hear some traffic, but it will be muted)! Time ceases to have any meaning, since you are at the mercy of the elements.

There are a number of places to do a felucca ride in Cairo, such as from opposite the Grand Hyatt hotel, but the best place is down in Maadi. There are no bridges here to interrupt your sailing, and it is a lot more peaceful. You can pick up a felucca from the local ferry port on the cornice, next to the Grand Café.

The standard charge for tourists is 60 LE for an hour, though you can certainly bargain this down. Note that you should also tip the captain on top. You can do a felucca ride at any time of day or night, but by far the best time to do it is for sunset.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Egyptian Pancake House serves decent fateers on the edge of Khan al Khalili

Description:

The Egyptian Pancake House is situated in on the edge Khan al-Khalili bazaar, and is a good place to eat in the area.

Egyptian pancakes (sometimes referred to as pizzas or pies) are actually known as feteers, and are sort of like a pizza topping stuffed inside a crepe. They are a perfect quick and tasty filler.

The Egyptian Pancake House offers various savoury and sweet feteers, and the best thing to do is to take a selection, and share. They aren't the best in Cairo, but they are authentic, and compared to a lot of the overpriced rubbish served up in the bazaar area, if you do need to eat, this is a good bet.

The spicy sausage feteer is particularly good, as is the honey, nuts and cream. Watch how the chef makes the pastry, slapping it on the counter and swinging it around his head to stretch the dough.

At the Egyptian Pancake House, you eat your feteers sitting at plastic tables and chairs balanced on the busy pavement, with a stream of vendors and the occasional tour bus parading past. This organised chaos, so typical of Cairo, is a big part of the fun!

Description:

Set in an attractive garden overlooking an artificial lake, this branch of the popular Asian cafe is always buzzing with young Cairenes. The tables are scattered amongst trees and shrubs giving customers both pleasant surroundings and modicum of privacy. An in-house DJ spins Arabic pop tunes every night.