Getting to Chicago by Air

O’Hare International Airport (ORD): (773) 686-3700, www.ohare.com/

Located on the Northwest side of the city, O’Hare is the second largest airport in the USA. O’Hare offers carriers from all over the world, with easy transportation to and from the airport throughout the city.

Midway International Airport (MDW): www.chicago-mdw.com/

Midway is the smaller of the two airports, located on the southwest side of the city, but is rapidly growing. It has three concourses, offering service from most major carriers. There is also easy public transportation from the city.

Transportation To and From the Airport

Car Rentals

O’Hare
Renting a car at ORD is very simple, with most major agencies represented. You can find the agencies customer service booths at the lower level of baggage claim in Terminals 1, 2, and 3. Terminal 5 offers a phone service to connect with the agencies in the main terminals. Shuttles will take customers to the designated parking lots.

Midway
Renting a car at MID is very simple, with most major agencies represented. Customer service desks are located by the baggage claim, and cars can be picked up in the Parking Garage on Level 2.

Alamo (800)327-9633 Avis (800)331-1212 Budget (800)527-0700 Dollar (800)800-4000 Enterprise (800)867-4595 Hertz (800)654-3131 National (800)227-7368

Taxi
Taking a cab to your destination from the airport is easy. Taxi stands are located at both airports just outside of baggage claim. All cabs begin at $2.25, every 1/9 of a mile after is an additional $0.20. The first adult passenger is $1.00, and $0.50 for every adult after that. All taxis leaving from the airports or arriving at the airports are an additional $1.00. The cost from Midway to downtown is generally $30 and $40 from O’Hare. Flat rates can sometimes be negotiated, but do not count on it. By law, Chicago cab drivers cannot deny the use of a credit card for payment, but be prepared for drivers to be disgruntled if you cannot pay in cash.

Shuttle
Continental Airport Express is the best airport shuttle service in the city, serving both airports. It offers door-to-door service daily from most city and suburban locations. Hours of operation are from 6:00am to 11:30pm. The cost from either airport to a central downtown location is about $30. Tel: 1-888-284-3926 web: www.airportexpress.com/

Bus (Kiss n’ Fly)
The Chicago PACE bus system offers a bus route from O’Hare to designated locations throughout the city. The PACE bus can be found at the Kiss n’ Fly location in Lot E. The routes serve Downtown Evanston, the Des Plaines Metra Station, La Grange, Bellwood, and Mannheim Metra stations. Other stops are made along the way for all these routes.

For further information: 312-836-7000 RTA TTY: 312-836-4949 General Information: 847-364-PACE (7223) www.pacebus.com/

The “El” System
The El is a simple, fast, and cheap way to travel to and from the airports, especially to avoid highway traffic. The Blue line serves O’Hare and the Orange Line serves Midway from downtown. The travel time from downtown to O’Hare is about 40 minutes and about 30 minutes to Midway. A one-way fare is $2.25. Fare cards can be purchased at all train stops. www.transitchicago.com/

Getting Around Chicago Public Transportation

In general, Chicago is easy to navigate even though its’ sheer size can be overwhelming. Most streets run on a sensible grid system, however there are the occasional diagonal streets to mix things up. Chicago has an extensive public transportation system that can take you anywhere in the city and to the surrounding suburbs. The elevated train system (the El) is a color-coded set of trains that run in all directions from the Loop. Be sure to check train schedules online or at the stations, as many services do not run 24 hours a day. Buses are also found on most major streets and avenues, with stops marked by blue and white signs. Due to recent budget cuts, many services have been cut back, so be sure to check bus schedules.

Fare cards can be purchased at vending machines at ‘L’ stations or online at http://faremedia.chicago-card.com/. A one-way fare for the train is $2.25 and $2.00 for a one-way bus fare. It is $0.25 to transfer. Bus drivers do not give change, be prepared with the exact amount.

Taxi/Foot/Bike
Chicago is definitely a walking city, especially the downtown area. Even in harsh weather conditions, Chicagoans are prepared to walk to their destination, or at least to the nearest method of public transportation. This can be a great way to see the city, but may be hard for those new to the city. The key is to have a grasp of the CTA system and always keep oriented with the Lake, which is to the East. Chicago is deceivingly large, so be aware of the distance between destinations in order to make the best transportation choice.

Like any city, cabs are plenty, but try to avoid them in high traffic areas or during rush hours, as they can be expensive. You can easily hail one at any major thoroughfare, and are highly recommended at late night hours when public transportation is not as safe.

Biking in Chicago is a great option, especially along the waterfront in the summer time. There are many bike routes that will take you along Chicago must-sees, which can be found at www.cityofchicago.org/. You can also find bike rental locations and bike shops at the City of Chicago website. Bikes can be taken on trains and buses easily. Find detailed information about how to do so at www.transitchicago.com/.

Driving
Using a personal or rental car in Chicago can be helpful if traveling far distances. However, congestion on Chicago highways from rush hour and construction can be intense. Avoid the downtown areas during rush hour times, if possible. When parking in the neighborhoods check the permit regulations. Most neighborhood streets are permit parking only between 6pm and 6am, so you will want to find metered parking or a parking garage for overnight stays. In the last year, all Chicago meters have become privatized, raising the cost of metered parking significantly. Be prepared for high rates when parking on the street in the Loop.
© NileGuide

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Getting There

Air

O'Hare International Airport (ORD)
+1 773 686 2200
http://www.ohare.com

ORD is located 18 miles (30 kilometers) northwest of Chicago and services the following airlines:

Aero Mexico (+ 1 800 237 6639/ http://www.aeromexico.com)
Air Canada (+1 800 776 3000/ http://www.aircanada.ca)
Air France (+1 800 871 1366/ http://www.airfrance.com)
Alaska Airlines (+1 800 252 7522/ http://www.alaskaair.com)
British Airways (+1 800 247 9297/ http://www.british-airways.com)
Continental (+1 800 525 0280/ http://www.continental.com)
Delta (+1 800 221 1212/ http://www.delta.com)
El Al (+1 800 223 6700/ http://www.elal.co.il)
Japan Airlines (+1 800 525 3663/ http://www.japanair.com)
Korean Air (+1 800 438 5000/ http://www.koreanair.com)
Lufthansa (+1 800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com)
Mexicana (+1 800 531 7921/ http://www.mexicana.com)
Northwest (+1 800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com)
Qantas (+1 604 279 6611/ http://www.qantas.com)
Scandinavian Airlines (+1 800 221 2350/ http://www.scandinavian.net)
TACA (+1 800 535 8780/ http://www.taca.com)
United (+1 800 241 6522/ http://www.ual.com)
US Airways (+1 800 428 4322/ http://www.usairways.com)

Airport Map & Information: http://www.airguideonline.com/airports/airport_ord.htm
Airport Services: http://www.airguideonline.com/airports/airport_ord2.htm
Airport Transportation: http://www.airguideonline.com/airports/airport_ord3.htm

Chicago Midway Airport (MDW)
+1 773 838 0600
http://www.chicago-mdw.com

Chicago Midway Airport is located 12 miles (19 kilometers) southwest from Downtown Chicago and services the following airlines:

ATA Connections / Chicago Express  (+1 800 225 2995)
Frontier Airlines  (+1 800 432 1359/ http://www.frontierairlines.com)
Northwest Airlines  (+1 800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com)
Southwest Airlines  (+1 800 435 9792/ http://southwest.com)
Ted  (+1 800 225 5833/ http://www.united.com)
AirTran  (+1 800 825 8538/ http://airtran.com)
ATA  (+1 800 225 2995)
Comair (+1 800 927 0927/ http://www.comair.com)
Delta Air Lines  (+1 800 221 1212/ http://www.delta.com)
American Airlines  (+1 800 433 7300/ http://www.aa.com)
Continental Airlines  (+1 800 525 0280/ http://www.continental.com)

Airport Map & Information: http://www.airguideonline.com/airports/airport_mdw.htm
Airport Services: http://www.airguideonline.com/airports/airport_mdw2.htm
Airport Transportation: http://www.airguideonline.com/airports/airport_mdw3.htm

From the Airport

O'Hare International Airport

Train: Chicago's famed El (short for elevated train) (+1 888 968 7282/http://www.transitchicago.com) is the cheapest and quickest option for getting downtown. Its Blue Line exits the airport every ten minutes or less twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week. Rides last 45 minutes and cost USD1.75.

The Metra's (+1 312 322 6777/http://www.metrarail.com) North Central Commuter Train line connects with downtown's Union Station for USD3.15. There is no weekend service.

Shuttle: ranks as the airports best shuttle service. It exits the airport every 5-10 minutes and averages USD18 per passenger.

Taxi: Taxis, all metered, generally cost between USD35-USD40. Depending on traffic, rides to downtown can range from 30-60 minutes. Taxis can be easily located outside each terminal. Some of the more prominent companies include:

Flash Cab Company (+1 773 878 8500) Jiffy Cab Company (+1 773 487 9000) American United (+1 773 327 6161) Also check out the popular Shoreline Water Taxi.

Car Rental: Alamo (+1 800 327 9633/ http://www.alamo.com)
Avis (+1 800 831 2847/ http://www.avis.com)
Budget (+1 800 527 0700/ http://www.budget.com)
Dollar (+1 800 4000/ http://www.dollar.com )
Hertz (+1 800 654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com)
National (+1 800 227 7368/ http://www.nationalcar.com)

Chicago Midway Airport

Train: Chicago's famed El (short for elevated train) (+1 888 968 7282/http://www.transitchicago.com) is the cheapest and quickest option for getting downtown. The CTA orange line will take you to downtown Chicago in 30 minutes. One way fare is currently USD2.


Taxi: Taxis are found outside the terminal, near the baggage claim. For a ride to downtown Chicago expect to pay USD25-USD35.
ACE Taxi (+1 773 381 8000)
American United Cab Association (+1 773 327 6161)
Blue Diamond (+1 312 226 8880)
Yellow Cab Affliation, Inc (+1 773 907 0020)


Car Rental: Rentals can be conveniently picked up and dropped off at the second floor of the parking garage of Midway Airport. Rental companies available include:
Avis (+1 331 1212)
Alamo (+1 800 327 9633/ http://www.alamo.com)
Budget (+1 800 527 7000/ http://www.budget.com)
Dollar (+1 800 800 4000/ http://www.dollar.com)
Enterprise (+1 566 9249/ http://www.enterprise.com)
Hertz (+1 800 654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com)
National (+1 800 227 7368/ http://www.nationalcar.com)
Thrifty (+1 800 527 7075/ http://www.thrifty.com)

Shuttle:
Omega Airport Shuttle
+1 773 734 6688
http://www.omegashuttle.com
Call to inquire about home pick-ups. From Southside to Midway Airport expect to pay USD 20.

Train

Union Station national hub. Consequently, Chicago receives more passenger train service than any other city in the country. Thirteen train lines huff into Chicago and include the California Zephyr, running between Chicago and San Francisco, the Cardinal, linking Chicago and Washington D.C., and the Lake Shore Limited, which connects Chicago with Boston or New York.

Bus

Greyhound (+1 800 231 2222/ http://www.greyhound.com/) accesses Chicago daily from every direction. The downtown bus station, (+1 312 408 5800), located at 630 Harrison Street, is open 24 hours. For discounted fares, Megabus (+1 877 GO2 MEGA/ http://www.megabus.com) offers travel to destinations throughout the Midwest.

Highway

Interstate 55 (Adlai Stevenson Expressway), the main connection from St. Louis, zips into Chicago via a southwest direction, terminating at Lake Shore Drive. Interstate 90 merges with Interstate 94 just south of the city and then parallels the lake shore through the city before branching off in Chicago's northwest corner. Interstate 290 (Eisenhower Expressway) begins near the northern suburb of Buffalo Grove, before bending into downtown directly from the west. Interstate 294 (Tri-State Tollway) ribbons through Chicago's western suburbs in a north/south direction. Interstate 88 comes in from the west and Interstate 80 skirts past the southern edge of the city.

Getting Around

Public Transit

The city of "big shoulders" is also a city of big public transportation options. The Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) (+1 888 968 7282/http://www.transitchicago.com/) services downtown and 38 suburbs, transporting an amazing 1.3 million riders a day. The El (elevated train) ranks as its crown jewel and, in many ways, joins Wrigley Field and the Sears Tower as the true symbols of the city. It offers 289 miles of track with five separate lines. Depending on the time of day, all stops are serviced every 5-20 minutes. One-way fares cost USD1.75 and exact change is required.

The Metra Commuter Railroad (+1 312 322 6777/ http://www.metrarail.com) boasts 12 lines, 495 miles of track and 230 stations while servicing the counties of Cook, Dupage, Kane, McHenry and Will. One-way fares range from USD1.85-6.95.

CTA's bus service is extremely efficient, attending stops every 5-10 minutes during weekday rush hours, and every 8-20 minutes in the evenings. Stops are conveniently located every one or two blocks and are designated by blue and white signs. Fares: USD1.75.

PACE (+1 847 364 7223/http://www.pacebus) is the fourteenth largest bus system in North America. Its seven lines feature 240 routes. Stops are serviced every 20-30 minutes during peak hours. Fares: USD1.75.

Taxi

Cabs are extremely easy to hail along Chicago's Magnificent Mile, the Loop and in Lincoln Park. Otherwise it is best to call. Some of the more noted companies include:

Coral Cab (+1 773 488 0122) Checker Cab (+1 243 2537) Famous Cab (+1 773 643 4330) Flash Cab (+1 773 561 1444) Mercury Cab (+1 773 274 3108)

Boat

Wendella Commuter Boats (+1 312 337 1446/http://www.wendellariverbus.com) usher riders daily via water taxis between the Madison Street and Michigan Avenue commuter train stations. Hours: 7:45a-7p M-F; 9a-7p Sa-Su. Fares: USD3 one-way, USD4 roundtrip. Shoreline Sightseeing (+1 312 222 9328/http://www.shorelinesightseeing.com) offers limited water taxi service 10AM-6PM daily between late May and early September. It shuttles between the Navy Pier and Shedd Aquarium along Lake Michigan, and also transports passengers up the Chicago River to the Sears Tower. Fares: USD6 for a one-day ticket.

Car

Chicago's wide streets and well-placed expressways make it relatively easy to drive when compared to most other major cities. However, attempting to find available parking will seem more like a myth rather than a reality.

Downtown attractions such as the Shedd Aquarium, the Sears Tower, and the Magnificent Mile are all relatively close making walking a fantastic travel option.

Bike

Chicago's famed Lakefront Bike Path should serve as a universal blueprint for every city bike path. It hugs the Lake Michigan shore in a north/south direction passing beaches and marinas and accessing every major Chicago attraction including the Lincoln Park Zoo, the Navy Pier, the Shedd Aquarium, the Adler Planetarium, the Art Institute of Chicago and Grant Park.

Frommer's

Planning a Trip

As a major American city, Chicago is easy to reach by air, with two major airports (O'Hare and Midway) and hundreds of flights arriving each day. Once you arrive in town, it's fairly simple to get to the major tourist attractions using public transportation, including buses and the "El," a system of subways and elevated trains. Taxis are easy to flag down on any busy street. If you're staying downtown, you won't need to rent a car while you're here.

When planning your trip, I'd recommend booking your hotel as early as possible, especially during the busy summer tourist season. The more affordable a hotel, the more likely it is to be sold out in June, July, and August, especially on weekends. It's also worth checking if a major convention will be in town during the dates you hope to travel. It's not unusual for every major downtown hotel to be sold out during the Housewares Show in late March or the Restaurant Show in mid-May.

If you're planning on catching a show while you're here (and I highly recommend you do), it's a good idea to buy tickets before you arrive. You can browse a list of what's showing at the League of Chicago Theaters website, www.chicagoplays.com, then visit individual theater websites to buy tickets online. The day before your trip, be sure to check Chicago's local weather forecast. The temperatures here can be unpredictable, so you'll find packing a lot easier if you know whether to expect snow, rain, or sweltering heat. (That said, bring a range of clothes if you're going to be in town for awhile -- you should be prepared for anything!)

Visitor Information & Maps

Before your trip, visit the website of the Chicago Office of Tourism, Chicago Cultural Center, 78 E. Washington St., Chicago, IL 60602 (tel. 877/CHICAGO or TTY 866/710-0294; www.choosechicago.com), to find out about upcoming events and attractions (they'll also mail you a packet of materials if you want). Click the "Maps & Transportation" link at the top of the home page for links to maps of Chicago neighborhoods. You can even create your own personalized map of sights you'd like to visit. The Illinois Bureau of Tourism (tel. 800/2CONNECT or TTY 800/406-6418; www.enjoyillinois.com) will also send you information about Chicago and other Illinois destinations.

Once you're here, you may want to visit one of the Office of Tourism's visitor centers to pick up information on special events. The main visitor center, located in the Loop and convenient to many places that you'll likely be visiting, is on the first floor of the Chicago Cultural Center, 77 E. Randolph St. (at Michigan Ave.). The center has a phone that you can use to make hotel reservations, and several couches and a cafe where you can study maps and plan your itinerary. The center is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 6pm, and Sunday from 10am to 6pm; it's closed on holidays.

The Chicago Water Works Visitor Center is in the old pumping station at Michigan and Chicago avenues in the heart of the city's shopping district. The entrance is on the Pearson Street side of the building, across from the Water Tower Place mall. It's open daily from 7:30am to 7pm. This location has the added draw of housing a location of Hot Tix, which offers both half-price day-of-performance and full-price tickets to many theater productions around the city, as well as a gift shop. Part of the building has been converted into a theater, including a small cabaret space for tourist-oriented shows and a larger playhouse for the acclaimed Lookingglass Theatre Company.

Insider Tours -- Free! -- Want a personalized view of the city -- aside from your trusted Frommer's guidebook? A program called Chicago Greeter matches tourists with local Chicagoans who serve as volunteer guides. Visitors can request a specific neighborhood or theme (everything from Polish heritage sites to Chicago movie locations), and a greeter gives them a free 2- to 4-hour tour. (Greeters won't escort groups of more than six people.) Specific requests should be made at least a week in advance, but "InstaGreeters" are also available on a first-come, first-served basis at the Chicago Cultural Center, 77 E. Randolph St., from Friday through Sunday. For details, call tel. 312/744-8000, or visit www.chicagogreeter.com.

Hey, Google, did you get my text message? -- It's bound to happen: The day you leave this guidebook back at the hotel for an unencumbered stroll through [neighborhood in your destination], you'll forget the address of the lunch spot you had earmarked. If you're traveling with a mobile device, send a text message to tel. 46645 (GOOGL) for a lightning-fast response. For instance, type "carnegie deli new york" and within 10 seconds you'll receive a text message with the address and phone number. This nifty trick works in a range of search categories: Look up weather ("weather chicago"), language translations ("translate goodbye in spanish"), currency conversions ("10 usd in pounds"), movie times ("harry potter 60601"), and more. If your search results are off, be more specific ("the abbey gay bar west hollywood"). For more tips and search options, see www.google.com/intl/en_us/mobile/sms/. Regular text message charges apply.

Getting There

By Plane

Chicago's O'Hare International Airport (tel. 773/686-2200; www.ohare-airport.org; online airport code ORD) has long battled Atlanta's Hartsfield for the title of the world's busiest airport. O'Hare is about 15 miles northwest of the Loop. Depending on traffic, the drive to or from downtown can take anywhere from 30 minutes to more than an hour.

O'Hare has information booths in all five terminals; most are on the baggage level. The multilingual employees, who wear red jackets, can assist travelers with everything from arranging ground transportation to getting information about local hotels. The booths, labeled "Airport Information," are open daily from 9am to 8pm.

Most major U.S. and international airlines fly in to O'Hare. You'll find the widest range of choices on United Airlines (which is headquartered in Chicago) and American Airlines (which has a hub at O'Hare).

At the opposite end of the city, on the southwest side, is Chicago's other major airport, Midway International Airport (tel. 773/838-0600; www.flychicago.com; online airport code MDW). Although it's smaller than O'Hare and handles fewer airlines, Midway is closer to the Loop and attracts more discount airlines, so you may be able to get a cheaper fare flying into here. (Always check fares to both airports if you want to find the best deal.) A cab ride from Midway to the Loop usually takes about 20 minutes. You can find the latest information on both airports at the city's Department of Aviation website: www.flychicago.com.

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- International visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of September 11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

Getting into Town from O'Hare & Midway -- Taxis are plentiful at both O'Hare and Midway, but getting to town is easily accessed by public transportation as well. A cab ride into the city will cost about $35 from O'Hare (20 miles from downtown), and $25 from Midway (10 miles from downtown). One warning: Rush-hour traffic can be horrendous, especially around O'Hare.

If you're not carting enormous amounts of luggage and want to save money, I highly recommend taking public transportation, which is convenient from both airports. For $2, you can take the El (vernacular for the elevated train) straight into downtown.

O'Hare is on the Blue Line; a trip to downtown takes about 40 minutes. Trains leave every 6 to 10 minutes during the day, and every half-hour in the evening and overnight.

Getting downtown from Midway is even faster; the ride on the Orange Line takes 20 to 30 minutes. (The Orange Line stops operating each night at about 11:30pm and resumes service by 5am.) Trains leave the station every 6 to 15 minutes. The train station is a fair walk from the terminal -- without the benefit of O'Hare's moving sidewalks -- so be prepared if you have heavy bags.

Both airports also have outposts for every major car rental company.

GO Airport Express (tel. 888/2-THEVAN; www.airportexpress.com) serves most first-class hotels in Chicago with its green-and-white vans; ticket counters are at both airports near baggage claim (outside Customs at the international terminal at O'Hare). For transportation to the airport, reserve a spot through one of the hotels (check with the bell captain). The cost is $27 one-way ($49 round-trip) to or from O'Hare, and $22 one-way ($37 round-trip) to or from Midway. Group rates for two or more people traveling together are less expensive than sharing a cab, and children ages 6 to 12 ride for half-price. The shuttles operate from 4am to 11:30pm.

For limo service from O'Hare or Midway, call Carey Limousine of Chicago (tel. 773/763-0009; www.ecarey.com) or Chicago Limousine Services (tel. 312/726-1035). Depending on the number of passengers and whether you opt for a sedan or a stretch limo, the service will cost about $100 to $150 from Midway and $150 to $200 from O'Hare, excluding gratuity and tax.

By Car

Interstate highways from all major points on the compass serve Chicago. I-80 and I-90 approach from the east, crossing the northern sector of Illinois, with I-90 splitting off and emptying into Chicago on the Skyway and the Dan Ryan Expressway. From here, I-90 runs through Wisconsin, following a northern route to Seattle. I-55 snakes up the Mississippi Valley from the vicinity of New Orleans and enters Chicago from the west along the Stevenson Expressway; in the opposite direction, it provides an outlet to the Southwest. I-57 originates in southern Illinois and forms part of the interstate linkage to Florida and the South, connecting within Chicago on the west leg of the Dan Ryan. I-94 links Detroit with Chicago, arriving on the Calumet Expressway and leaving the city on the Kennedy Expressway en route to the Northwest.

Here are approximate driving distances in miles to Chicago: from Milwaukee, 92; from St. Louis, 297; from Detroit, 286; from Denver, 1,011; from Atlanta, 716; from Washington, D.C., 715; from New York City, 821; and from Los Angeles, 2,034.

By Train

Traveling great distances by train is certainly not the quickest way to go, nor always the most convenient, but some travelers still prefer it to flying or driving.

For tickets, consult your travel agent or call Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL; www.amtrak.com). Ask the reservations agent to send you Amtrak's travel planner, with useful information on train accommodations and package tours.

When you arrive in Chicago, the train will pull into Union Station, 210 S. Canal St., between Adams and Jackson streets (tel. 312/655-2385). Bus nos. 1, 60, 125, 151, and 156 all stop at the station, which is just west across the river from the Loop. The nearest El stop is at Clinton Street and Congress Parkway (on the Blue Line), which is a fair walk away, especially when you're carrying luggage.

By Bus

Bus travel is often the most economical form of public transit for short hops between U.S. cities, but it's certainly not an option for everyone (particularly when Amtrak, which is far more luxurious, offers similar rates). Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com for unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada.

Getting Around

The best way to savor Chicago is by walking its streets. Walking isn't always practical, however, particularly when moving between distant neighborhoods and on harsh winter days. In those situations, Chicago's public train and bus systems can get you almost anywhere you want to go.

Free Ride -- During the summer, the city of Chicago operates free trolleys daily between Michigan Avenue and the Museum Campus (site of the Adler Planetarium, the Field Museum of Natural History, and the Shedd Aquarium); the trolleys run only on weekends in the fall and spring. Free trolleys also run year-round between Navy Pier and the Grand/State El station on the Red Line. While the trolleys are supposed to make stops every 30 minutes, waits can be longer during peak tourist season -- and the trolleys aren't air-conditioned. If you get tired of waiting, remember that CTA public buses travel the same routes for only $2 per person.

By Train & Bus

The Chicago Transit Authority, better known as the CTA (tel. 836-7000 or TTY 836-4949 from any area code in the city and suburbs; www.transitchicago.com) operates an extensive system of trains and buses throughout the city of Chicago. The sturdy system carries about 1.5 million passengers a day. Subways and elevated trains (known as the El) are generally safe and reliable, although it's advisable to avoid long rides through unfamiliar neighborhoods late at night.

Fares for the bus, subway, and El are $2, with an additional 25¢ for a transfer that allows CTA riders to make two transfers on the bus or El within 2 hours of receipt. Children 6 and under ride free, and those between the ages of 7 and 11 pay $1. Seniors can also receive the reduced fare if they have the appropriate reduced-fare permit (call tel. 312/836-7000 for details on how to obtain one, although this is probably not a realistic option for a short-term visitor).

The CTA uses credit card-size fare cards that automatically deduct the exact fare each time you take a ride. The reusable cards can be purchased with a preset value already stored, or riders can obtain cards at vending machines located at all CTA train stations and charge them with whatever amount they choose (a minimum of $2 and up to $100). If within 2 hours of your first ride you transfer to a bus or the El, the turnstiles at the El stations and the fare boxes on buses will automatically deduct from your card just the cost of a transfer (25¢). If you make a second transfer within 2 hours, it's free. The same card can be recharged continuously.

Fare cards can be used on buses, but you can't buy a card on the bus. If you get on the bus without a fare card, you'll have to pay $2 cash (either in coins or in dollar bills); the bus drivers cannot make change, so make sure that you've got the right amount before hopping on board.

Ticket to Ride -- Visitors who plan on taking a lot of train or bus trips should consider buying a Visitor Pass, which works like a fare card and allows individual users unlimited rides on the El and CTA buses over a 24-hour period. The cards cost $5 and are sold at airports, hotels, museums, Hot Tix outlets, transportation hubs, and Chicago Office of Tourism visitor information centers (you can also buy them in advance online at www.transitchicago.com or by calling tel. 888/YOUR-CTA). You can also buy 2-, 3-, and 5-day passes. While the passes save you the trouble of feeding the fare machines yourself, they're economical only if you plan to make at least three distinct trips at least 2 or more hours apart (remember that you get two additional transfers within 2 hrs. for an additional 25¢ on a regular fare).

By Train -- The CTA operates five major train lines, identified by color: The Red Line runs north-south; the Green Line runs west-south; the Blue Line runs through Wicker Park/Bucktown west-northwest to O'Hare Airport; the Pink Line branches off from the Blue Line and serves the southwest side of the city; the Brown Line runs in a northern zigzag route; and the Orange Line runs southwest, serving Midway airport. The Purple Line, which runs on the same Loop elevated tracks as the Orange and Green lines, serves north-suburban Evanston and runs only during rush hour.

I highly recommend taking at least one El ride while you're here -- you'll get a whole different perspective on the city (not to mention fascinating views inside downtown office buildings and North Side homes as you zip past their windows). While the Red Line is the most efficient for traveling between the Magnificent Mile and points south, your only views along this underground stretch will be of dingy stations. For sightseers, I recommend taking the aboveground Brown Line, which runs around the downtown Loop and then north through residential neighborhoods. You can ride all the way to the end of the line at Kimball (about a 45-min. ride from downtown), or hop off at Belmont to wander the Lakeview neighborhood. Avoid this scenic ride during rush hour (before about 9am and 3:30-6:30pm), when your only view will be of tired commuters.

Study your CTA map carefully (there's one printed on the inside back cover of this guide) before boarding any train. While most trains run every 5 to 20 minutes, decreasing in frequency in the off-peak and overnight hours, some stations close after work hours (as early as 8:30pm) and remain closed on Saturday, Sunday, and holidays. The Orange Line train does not operate from about 11:30pm to 5am, the Brown Line operates only north of Belmont after about 9:30pm, the Blue Line's Cermak branch has ceased operating overnight and on weekends, and the Purple Line does not run overnight.

By Bus -- The best way to get around neighborhoods along the lakefront -- where the trains don't run -- is by public bus. Look for the blue-and-white signs to locate bus stops, which are spaced about 2 blocks apart. Each bus route is identified by a number and the name of the main street it runs along; the bus that follows Grand Avenue, for example, is the no. 65 Grand.

A few buses that are particularly handy for many visitors are the no. 146 Marine/Michigan, an express bus from Belmont Avenue on the North Side that cruises down North Lake Shore Drive (and through Lincoln Park during nonpeak times) to North Michigan Avenue, State Street, and the Grant Park museum campus; the no. 151 Sheridan, which passes through Lincoln Park en route to inner Lake Shore Drive and then travels along Michigan Avenue as far south as Adams Street, where it turns west into the Loop (and stops at Union Station); and the no. 156 LaSalle, which goes through Lincoln Park and then into the Loop's financial district on LaSalle Street.

PACE buses (tel. 836-7000 from any Chicago area code or 847/364-7223; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; www.pacebus.com) cover the suburban zones that surround Chicago. They run every 20 to 30 minutes during rush hour, operating until midevening Monday through Friday and early evening on weekends. Suburban bus routes are marked with nos. 208 and above, and vehicles may be flagged down at intersections where stops aren't marked.

By Commuter Train -- The Metra commuter railroad (tel. 312/322-6777 or TTY 312/322-6774; Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; at other times call the Transit Information Center at tel. 312/836-7000 or TTY 312/836-4949; www.metrarail.com) serves the six-county suburban area around Chicago with 12 train lines. Several terminals are located downtown, including Union Station at Adams and Canal streets, LaSalle Street Station at LaSalle and Van Buren streets, North Western Station at Madison and Canal streets, and Randolph Street Station at Randolph Street and Michigan Avenue.

To view the leafy streets of Chicago's northern suburbs, take the Union Pacific North Line, which departs from the North Western Station, and get off at one of the following scenic towns: Kenilworth, Winnetka, Glencoe, Highland Park, and Lake Forest.

The Metra Electric (once known as the Illinois Central-Gulf Railroad, or the IC), running close to Lake Michigan on a track that occupies some of the most valuable real estate in Chicago, will take you to Hyde Park. You can catch the Metra Electric in the Loop at the Randolph Street Station and at the Van Buren Street Station at Van Buren Street and Michigan Avenue (both these stations are underground, so they're not immediately obvious to visitors).

Commuter trains have graduated fare schedules based on the distance you ride. On weekends and holidays and during the summer, Metra offers a family discount that allows up to three children under age 12 to ride free when accompanying a paid adult. The commuter railroad also offers a $5 weekend pass for unlimited rides on Saturday and Sunday.

By Taxi

Taxis are a convenient way to get around the Loop and to get to the dining, shopping, and entertainment options found beyond downtown, such as on the Near North Side, in Old Town and Lincoln Park, and in Bucktown/Wicker Park.

Taxis are easy to hail in the Loop, on the Magnificent Mile and the Gold Coast, in River North, and in Lincoln Park, but if you go far beyond these key areas, you might need to call. Cab companies include Flash Cab (tel. 773/561-4444), Yellow Cab (tel. 312/TAXI-CAB), and Checker Cab (tel. 312/CHECKER).

The meter in Chicago cabs currently starts at $2.25 for the first mile and costs $1.80 for each additional mile, with a $1 surcharge for the first additional rider and 50¢ for each person after that. Due to recent high gas prices, you'll also have to pay an additional $1 fuel surcharge whenever gas prices are above $3/gallon.

By Car

One of the great things about visiting Chicago is that you don't need to rent a car to get around: Public transportation and taxis are plentiful, and most of the main tourist attractions are within walking distance of downtown hotels. If you do drive here, Chicago is laid out so logically that it's relatively easy for visitors to get around the city by car. Although rush-hour traffic jams are just as frustrating as they are in other large cities, traffic runs fairly smoothly at most times of the day. Chicagoans have learned to be prepared for unexpected delays; it seems that at least one major highway and several downtown streets are under repair throughout the spring and summer months (some say we have two seasons: winter and construction).

Great diagonal corridors -- such as Lincoln Avenue, Clark Street, and Milwaukee Avenue -- slice through the grid pattern at key points in the city and shorten many a trip that would otherwise be tedious on the checkerboard surface of the Chicago streets. On scenic Lake Shore Drive (also known as Outer Dr.), you can travel the length of the city (and beyond), never far from the great lake that is Chicago's most awesome natural feature. If you're driving here, make sure you take one spin along what we call LSD; the stretch between the Museum Campus and North Avenue is especially stunning.

Driving Rules -- Unless otherwise posted, a right turn on red is allowed after stopping and signaling. As in any big city with its share of frustrating rush-hour traffic, be prepared for aggressive drivers and the occasional taxi to cut in front of you or make sudden, unexpected turns without signaling. Chicago drivers almost universally speed up at the sight of a yellow light; you'll most likely hear some honking if you don't make that mad dash before the light turns red.

Parking -- Parking regulations are vigorously enforced throughout the city. Read signs carefully: The streets around Michigan Avenue have parking restrictions during rush hour -- and I know from bitter firsthand experience that your car will be towed immediately. Many neighborhoods have adopted resident-only parking that prohibits others from parking on their streets, usually after 6pm each day (even all day in a few areas, such as Old Town). The neighborhood around Wrigley Field is off-limits during Cubs night games, so look for yellow sidewalk signs alerting drivers about the dozen-and-a-half times the Cubs play under lights. You can park in permit zones if you're visiting a friend who can provide you with a pass to stick on your windshield. Beware of tow zones, and, if visiting in winter, make note of curbside warnings regarding snow plowing.

A safe bet is valet parking, which most restaurants provide for $10 to $12. Downtown you might also opt for a public garage, but you'll have to pay premium prices. Several garages connected with malls or other major attractions offer discounted parking with a validated ticket.

If you'll be spending an entire day downtown, the best parking deal in the Loop is the city-run Millennium Park garage (tel. 312/742-7644), which charges $17 for up to 8 hours (enter on Columbus Dr., 1 block east of Michigan Ave., btw. Monroe and Randolph sts.). A little farther south are two municipal lots underneath Grant Park, with one entrance at Michigan Avenue and Van Buren Street and the other at Michigan Avenue and Madison Street (tel. 312/616-0600). Parking costs $14 for the first hour and $22 for 2 to 8 hours. Other downtown lots (where prices are comparable or even higher) include Midcontinental Plaza Garage, 55 E. Monroe St. (tel. 312/986-6821), and Navy Pier Parking, 600 E. Grand Ave. (tel. 312/595-7437). There's also a large lot next to the McCormick Place Convention Center, 2301 S. Lake Shore Dr. (tel. 312/791-7000).

Car Rental -- All the major car-rental companies have offices at O'Hare and Midway, as well as locations downtown.

By Bicycle

The city of Chicago has earned kudos for its efforts to improve conditions for bicycling (designated bike lanes have been installed on stretches of Wells St., Roosevelt Rd., Elston Ave., and Halsted St.), but it can still be a tough prospect trying to compete with cars and their drivers, who aren't always so willing to share the road.

The Chicagoland Bicycle Federation (tel. 312/427-3325; www.chibikefed.org), a nonprofit advocacy group, publishes several bicycling maps with tips on recommended on-street routes and parkland routes, as well as a guide to safe cycling in the city.

Bike Chicago rents all sorts of bikes, including tandems and four-seater "quadcycles," as well as in-line skates, from three locations: North Avenue Beach, Millennium Park, and Navy Pier (tel. 888/BIKE-WAY; www.bikechicago.com). Bike rentals start at $8.75 an hour or $30 a day. Helmets, pads, and locks are provided free of charge. The shops are open daily from 9am to 7pm, weather permitting.

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