Francesca's Forno

Description:

• An outpost of the popular local Francesca's chain, this Wicker Park spot has the relaxed vibe of a neighborhood hangout. Its triangular shape -- jutting right into the intersection of busy Milwaukee, Damen, and North avenues -- and large windows make you feel like you're in the center of the action. Inside, the laid-back locals (a mix of singles and families) chow down at rustic wood tables, and the attitude-free waitstaff keep things moving smoothly even during busy weekend dinners. The "Forno" refers to the many grilled dishes on the menu, from an appetizer of roasted red beets with gorgonzola and toasted walnuts to the roasted half chicken with Italian sausage, onions, peppers, and garlic. The pizzas are standouts, with crispy, not-quite-charred crusts and straightforward-but-tasty toppings. (The mozzarella, roasted onion and pancetta pizza I ordered on a recent visit had me fending off my tablemates as they begged for more bites.) Pastas are mostly traditional (spaghetti carbonara; ricotta-filled ravioli topped with tomato-basil sauce), and meat dishes include a double-cut pork chop wrapped in bacon and pepper-crusted beef tenderloin served with mascarpone polenta. But diners can also take a small-plates approach, ordering a selection of antipasti, salumi and cheese plates. There's also a children's menu -- proof that Francesca's Forno is more about eating than posing.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2009
•  Highly Recommended 2010