Le Bouchon

Description:

• Jean-Claude Poilevey's tiny storefront restaurant, Le Bouchon, is popular for both its intimate yet boisterous atmosphere and affordable authentic bistro fare. Whatever the season, the food here is fairly heavy, although specials are lighter in warmer montST. Poilevey could pack this place every night just with regulars addicted to the house specialty of roast duck for two, bathed in Grand Marnier-orange marmalade sauce. The fare covers bistro basics, with starters including steamed mussels in white wine and herbs, country pâté, onion tart, codfish brandade (a pounded mixture of cod, olive oil, garlic, milk, and cream), and salade Lyonnaise (greens with bacon lardoons, croutons, and poached egg). The authenticity continues in the entree department, with steak frites, sautéed rabbit in white wine, veal kidneys in mustard sauce, and bouillabaisse, most affordably priced at less than $20. The piped-in music and voices from closely packed tables create an atmosphere that some perceive as convivial, and others as claustrophobic and noisy. There's a small bar where you can wait -- something you might have to do even if you have a reservation.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2009
•  Highly Recommended 2010